Johor Bahru & Singapore
Our flight from Surabaya to Johor Bahru went via Kuala Lumpur. We were considering staying a few days, as it’s a great city, but decided on this occasion to head straight on to Johor Bahru, as there will be other opportunities since many flights seem to stop there. I only said last week to Shane that we’ve transferred through Kuala Lumpur airport more than any other on our travels.
The reason we chose to stay in Johor Bahru was because of its close proximity to Singapore and the ease of doing day trips over. We figured it could be a savvy way to visit at a fraction of the cost.
We arrived in Johor Bahru (JB as it’s known) quite late. We took a taxi to our Airbnb which took around 45 minutes. We wouldn’t be venturing far at this hour—maybe just to get some milk, as life won’t function without a cuppa!
We were really looking forward to staying in an apartment. After weeks on the road, we were ready for some home comforts—a kitchen, a lounge area, and a washing machine. It’s funny how the simple things become such luxuries when you’ve been living mostly in hotels. Not that we’re complaining—we honestly love it all!
The apartment complex was fantastic. Right on the waterfront, it had everything we needed. Below the apartment was the R&F Mall with shops, restaurants, and even a decent-sized supermarket. Yes—this would suit us perfectly. The view was pretty good as well: 23 stories up, we could look across the Strait of Malacca to Singapore, which felt almost a stone’s throw away across the water.
So we got the milk, had a quick snoop around and called it a day. A good night’s sleep was in order, and we were looking forward to exploring JB the following day.
Up bright and breezy, we already had wash load number two on. Get everything washed and hung out before we left and I’m sure it would be dry by the end of the day—see, keeping it real!
We’d read that from the apartments we could easily access the R&F Link Bridge—a covered 650-metre pedestrian bridge connecting R&F Mall to JB Sentral and the customs area. This is where you catch the bus or train when day-tripping to Singapore, so today we’d be able to check it out as it also leads to the centre as well. The Malaysians are good at these walkways—we’d found one in Kuala Lumpur last year. Elevated above the roads and often air-conditioned, they take the hassle out of crossing busy streets and let you keep cool at the same time. Genius!
It didn’t take us long to track down the link bridge—just a short stroll through the mall. From there it was an easy 10–15 minute walk to the bus and train terminal at the other end. Handy to know, as it gave us a good sense of timing for tomorrow when we’ll be heading into Singapore.
Anyway, less about Singapore—today is all about JB! You can tell from the amount of construction going on that it’s very much a city on the rise. Work has already started on the new Rapid Transit System, which we can actually see from our apartment. It’s set to link JB directly to Singapore, cutting down travel time and making the daily commute effortless, with completion apparently scheduled for December 2026.
The walkway also led us directly into one of the bigger malls here — Malaysia is full of them; they absolutely love their shopping malls. One thing we love about them is the air-con, so we were more than happy to cut through and cool down at the same time.
I’d researched a few places to see in the city one being Tan Hiok Nee Heritage Street and cutting through the mall was the right direction so winner winner!
The street was lovely, just as I’d envisioned — colourful old shophouses with lanterns strung across the road, heritage architecture, and plenty of murals. Outside one shop there was a queue, which we soon discovered was for a bakery. Their speciality was banana loaf alongside other tempting treats — well, we weren’t going to just walk past, were we? So we joined the line, which moved quickly as they clearly had the system down pat. It was like, ‘Next!’ and we were soon at the front. The banana loaf was clearly the star: steaming hot, freshly baked, and already sliced into 12 pieces, packed neatly in a carton. For just a couple of quid — no complaints from us! Not even waiting for it to cool, we grabbed a bench in the shade and scoffed a few slices of the delicious cake. Oh yes, I could see why there was a queue. They’ve been going for a hundred years too — I wonder how many cartons of this loaf they’ve sold in that time.
Many of the pre-war shophouses now house hip cafés, boutique shops, dessert bars, and quirky little galleries and if you walked along the back streets they were filled with murals and more street art.
Close to Heritage Street was Little India. It’s not a big area, just a few streets filled with shops selling Indian sarees, traditional clothing, jewellery, and accessories, along with stalls displaying spices, incense, and garlands of marigolds and jasmine made into offerings. They were really beautiful. At the heart of the neighbourhood stood a Hindu temple, its ornate tower rising proudly above the street, every inch covered in colour and intricate detail.
Afterwards, we made our way back to the apartment via the shopping hub and the modern side, where new developments were rising all around. It was nice to see the mix of old and new — a meeting point between old-world charm and modern hustle.
The area by the apartment was perfect in the evenings. The waterfront had a good selection of restaurants with outdoor seating, and the sunsets from here were wonderful as well. It really was a nice place to relax, overlooking the water towards Singapore
The border crossing from JB to Singapore is considered among the busiest land border checkpoints in the world. According to official figures, hundreds of thousands of people cross daily — pre-pandemic averages were around 350,000–400,000 travellers every day, sometimes peaking much higher during weekends and holidays.
So yes — it’s not just busy, it’s one of the most heavily used border crossings on the planet, but thanks to the unique relationship between Singapore and Johor: commuters, shoppers, and tourists move back and forth daily.
Based on advice, we headed out after the rush hour, around 10 a.m., and made our way across the linkway to the bus station at JB Sentral. You can also take the train—the KTM Shuttle Tebrau—across the border, but those tickets sell out quickly. We had actually reserved the train for the following day, so today we would have to take the bus. It would be a good opportunity to compare the two anyway.
It was still busy as we made the long walk through customs and into the bus station. Considering the number of people, it moved surprisingly well and we cleared customs quite quickly. From there, you head downstairs to the buses, which line up ready to go. As soon as one fills, another pulls in — the flow is pretty constant, which I suppose it has to be with the sheer number of people passing through each day.
You can buy tickets for the bus at the kiosk within the station but you can also use a contactless bank card and just tap when you get in the bus-which we chose to do as the easier option. There are a few different number buses the CW1, CW2 etc you can get on any they all cross the border. I think on the other side they then just go to different mrt stations. These buses are just loop line buses they won’t take you all onwards to the south (main tourist area).
The bus only takes around five minutes to cross the 1 km Johor–Singapore Causeway before dropping you at Woodlands Checkpoint, where you go through Singapore customs. That process runs like clockwork: you scan your passport at one of the many automated immigration gates, then put your bags through the scanner, and it’s back down the escalator to the bus bay. It all happens surprisingly quickly — then it’s back onto the bus on the other side. We took the CW1 bus, but I don’t think it really matters which; you just tap your card again and the bus takes you to the nearest MRT (metro) station. It sounds like a bit of a faff, but the whole process was fast, and even though you tap your card twice on the bus, the fare is calculated as one journey — around £1 one way.
At the MRT station, the trains run every few minutes—5 minutes at most—so there’s no waiting around. From here, you can catch the North–South Line (NSL). One train had just pulled in, and luckily we got a seat, so we could sit back, relax, and enjoy the ride. The journey itself takes around 45–50 minutes because of the number of stops. A good stretch of the line runs above ground, passing through residential areas, which gave us something interesting to look at along the way. As the train neared the city centre, it dipped underground. We got off at Raffles Place, not far from the waterfront. Including connections and walking, the whole trip took about an hour and an quarters—not as quick as we’d expected, but we were here now.
Where to head first — that was the question. I’d made a list of the different tourist attractions we hoped to see over several visits, so we didn’t need to worry too much about where to begin. The area around Raffles Place felt like the heart of the business district, with skyscrapers towering all around us. Shane already had his camera out — it was clear we’d be taking a lot of photos here. As we tried to get our bearings, we walked a few blocks and soon caught sight of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel across the water, one of Singapore’s most iconic landmarks. Instantly recognisable, its three gleaming towers are crowned by what looks like a giant ship balanced across the top.
I suggested we head there next, as I wanted to see the iconic Supertrees at Gardens by the Bay — a huge, futuristic garden complex right next to Marina Bay Sands.
The easiest way was to hop back on the metro for a couple of stops and get off at the hotel itself. From there, it was just a short walk behind to the gardens.
The Supertrees which are the most iconic were amazing. I’d seen them so many times on TV and in photos, but to experience them up close was fantastic. The trees range from 25 to 50 metres tall — about the height of a 16-storey building — and are covered with over 160,000 plants, including orchids, ferns, tropical flowers, and climbing plants.
Within the gardens there are also two huge, futuristic glass domes, each climate-controlled and housing different ecosystems: the Flower Dome — the world’s largest glass greenhouse — and the Cloud Forest, a mist-filled dome featuring a 35-metre indoor waterfall and “Cloud Mountain,” covered in orchids, ferns, and mosses.
We didn’t actually go inside, as we were more than happy to explore the outdoor gardens, with their lakes, sculptures, walking trails, and plants from around the world. It was truly beautiful.
From the gardens, we walked further on and took the pathway along the river towards the Marina Barrage, a dam built across the Marina Channel. The barrage serves several purposes: providing water supply, controlling floods, and offering recreation. The reservoir behind it is unaffected by tides, so the calm waters are ideal for water sports. On top of the building is a large green rooftop, a great vantage point to see the skyline, including Marina Bay and the Supertrees. I imagine it would also be a beautiful spot to visit after dark if we have time.
After exploring, we made our way back through the gardens, past the domes, and exited by the hotel, continuing on towards the Helix Bridge — another landmark on my list.
The helix bridge is a pedestrian footbridge Inspired by the double helix of human DNA — the spiraling steel structure twists elegantly along its length. It has Four viewing platforms along the bridge give panoramic views of the superb Singapore skyline, Marina Bay, the lotus flower shaped Art Science Museum and the waterfront.
We were loving it. We’d always wanted to visit Singapore, and it was certainly living up to its reputation as a beautiful, modern, and spotlessly clean city. It also felt familiar, with English being the main language and having been a British colony from 1819 to 1963, there are still many British influences in the culture, institutions, and architecture. Between the language, the infrastructure, and the visible traces of colonial history, Singapore felt like a home-away-from-home — while still being distinctly Southeast Asian. We’d felt exactly the same when we visited Hong Kong!
From the Helix Bridge we continued towards the waterfront promenade were we found ourselves weaving through a maze of temporary signs and detours, as the city was in the process of being transformed into a race circuit for the Formula 1 Grand Prix taking place the following week. Roads were blocked off, spectator stands were being erected, and we had to follow the temporary walkways that had been put in place-shame we wasn’t here for that but I imagine the place would be rammed!
The waterfront promenade actually stretches 3.5 km, looping around Marina Bay and linking many of the city’s most iconic sights. Wide walkways lined with trees, art installations, and resting spots offer constant views of the bay and skyline. It was mind-blowing — and this was only in the daytime. We knew we’d definitely be returning after dark to see it all lit up.
Ahead was the Esplanade area, with its durian-shaped Theatres. From there, we crossed the Jubilee Bridge, which links the Esplanade with Merlion Park.
Merlion Park is best known as the home of the Merlion statue — a mythical creature with the head of a lion and the body of a fish. The lion represents Singapore’s original name, Singapura (“lion city”), while the fish body symbolises its origins as a fishing village — quite a contrast to what the city has become today.
The park was jam-packed, bustling with tourists snapping photos of the Merlion with Marina Bay Sand or the skyline perfectly framed in the background.
We were definitely ready for a rest after all this sightseeing. It’s crazy how many steps you clock up exploring cities, and with the heat on top of it all, the thought of a cold drink was very welcome. Luckily, only a short walk away was Boat Quay, which we could already see on the map was lined with waterside restaurants and café bars — it sounded perfect!
And it was perfect — more than perfect, in fact, and really not what I’d expected. Running along the riverside was a long stretch of restaurants, each with decked seating areas overlooking the water, with boats gliding up and down and skyscrapers towering above. It was fab — every restaurant wanted your custom, all offering tempting happy hours. We’d never thought we’d find this in Singapore — it’s known to be expensive — but this was far from it. I couldn’t wait for us to flop down and get a cold one. To our surprise, we could get a large beer and a glass of wine for around £3 each — now that was unexpected! I had a feeling our little rest stop might turn into a couple of hours… ha!
And so it did — we ended up sitting with a lovely couple from Switzerland. The gentleman was celebrating his 79th birthday and had just begun a six-week holiday that would take them on to Japan, Hawaii, and San Francisco. Shane was saying, “Wow, your trip’s amazing,” and I had to laugh — as if ours isn’t!
It was getting late by the time we parted ways, but we’d had a brilliant evening. We could have chatted with them all night, but the thought of the journey back spurred us on. We just had time to walk back to the Merlion and the waterfront to see it all lit up. It was every bit as amazing as I knew it would be. There was such a buzz along the waterfront — people dining, strolling, joggers taking advantage of the cooler evening air, and tourists all eager to capture the view. We couldn’t linger for long, so we quickly snapped our photos and then headed to the nearest MRT to begin the journey back.
It wasn’t too late — around 9pm — but after all the travelling and walking we’d most definitely clocked up some serious steps, and the day wasn’t over yet. Getting back was straightforward: MRT to Kranji (our exit stop), then onto the CW1 or whichever bus was in. There were still hordes of people — no wonder it’s the busiest crossing — but once again everything moved quickly: back through immigration, onto the bus, across the Causeway into JB Sentral, through customs, and across the linkway bridge. Phew! I’m tired just thinking about it.
We hadn’t eaten yet, so we ducked into one of the restaurants near the apartment — many are open 24 hours — and finished the evening with the most amazing Indian meal. It had been a fantastic day — 14 miles walked! Just as midnight struck, we finally called it a night, knowing we’d be doing it all again tomorrow. Not sure I planned that part too well — ha!
The good thing was that our cross-border train the following morning was booked for 11:30, so we could still get a good night’s rest, have breakfast, and then set off. At the end of the linkway, instead of turning right into the bus station, the train station is directly opposite, almost as if you’re walking into the mall. We scanned our tickets and headed downstairs to the immigration counters. After clearing those, we waited in a holding area until they opened the doors to the platform around 11:25.
Similar to the bus, the train crossed the Causeway into Woodlands — the journey itself only took about five minutes. But to be honest, apart from that, it wasn’t much different from the bus. In fact, it was probably less convenient, since we then had to take a normal bus to the nearest MRT, and that connection took a bit longer. At least we’d tried both ways, but I think we’d stick with the bus route next time.
Once at the MRT, the routine was the same, and we ended up getting off at Raffles Place again, as we wanted to explore more of the business district.
The buildings and architecture around here were impressive — sleek towers with living walls draped in plants. Nestled among them were still some of the old shophouses and Chinese temples, and with art installations dotted about, it all made for some great photography.
Today on our to-do list was a visit to the famous Raffles Hotel. It was about a 30-minute walk from where we were. (Raffles Place only shares the name — it’s not the location of the hotel.) We weren’t bothered about using the MRT; we were happy to walk, clock up a few more steps, and see more of Singapore along the way.
Of course, no visit to Singapore is complete without a stop at the famous Raffles Hotel, home of the legendary Singapore Sling. Being backpackers, we weren’t about to splash out on one — it’s more about the experience than the cocktail for us. We were just happy to wander around, take in the colonial surroundings, and soak up the history of the place. It really does feel like stepping back in time. Later on, we knew we’d be far happier with a glass of red wine and a beer by the river at Boat Quay — much more our style (and our budget!).
From Raffles, we walked back towards Boat Quay. The route took us past many colonial buildings and churches alongside modern structures. On the opposite side of the river to Boat Quay stands the Old Parliament House, the oldest surviving government building in Singapore. Built in 1827, it originally served as a residence before becoming the seat of Parliament for decades. Today it has been repurposed as The Arts House, a cultural and arts centre. Its elegant style and riverside setting make it a striking reminder of Singapore’s colonial past, right in the heart of the modern city.
Now, we weren’t back at Boat Quay for that red wine just yet — there was more exploring to do. We continued along the Singapore River into Clarke Quay. Once a bustling cargo and trade hub, the area has been fully revitalised with colourful, low-rise warehouses and riverside dining. It’s one of Singapore’s most vibrant and lively riverside districts, lined with riverside bars and restaurants offering al fresco dining.
As we strolled along, they were still trying to lure us in with happy hour offers, but we resisted. We were happy just walking along the riverside, taking it all in. Boats passed by and the sun was starting to dip. You could imagine it would be buzzing as night fell, with a proper party vibe!
As we headed back down the river, you could see the Marina Bay Sands Hotel come into view. Camera out again — around every corner it was worthy of another photo. God knows how many we’ve taken; it’s just one of those places. It’s going to take us hours to go through them all!
The sun was just setting when we got back to Boat Quay — wine o’clock and beer o’clock were calling! Oh, go on then, we’d stop for one, it would be rude not to. We wanted to kill a little bit of time anyway — our excuse, as we were waiting for it to get a little darker before visiting Gardens by the Bay. We wanted to see the Supertrees in all their glory by night.
After our little tipple, we set off again. We decided to walk back along the waterfront towards the Merlion and take the promenade all the way around, looping back over the Helix Bridge. It was a bit of a trek, but we knew we’d be rewarded with stunning views of the skyline by night from different angles. And it was absolutely worth it — we captured some fantastic shots and even caught the Marina Bay Sands evening light show. The music drifted across the water as the lights danced perfectly in time, making the whole experience magical.
But even more magical was when we arrived at Supertree Grove just in time for the Garden Rhapsody — the captivating nightly spectacle where the 18 towering tree are illuminated in a mesmerising display of lights, perfectly synchronised to music.
What a perfect end to another wonderful day in Singapore. There’s something rather special about this place. Definitely worth the journey back and forth each day. After the light show ended, we didn’t have far to walk to the MRT, and the journey back went smoothly again. Once again, we’d clocked some serious miles. By the time we reached the apartment, we were so tired we couldn’t even be bothered going out for dinner — it was late anyway — and we grabbed a snack with a few bits we had in. Tomorrow we’ll take it easy and have a relaxing day here at the apartment. We’ve also got a lovely pool area if we feel like a swim — just what we need!
In fact, we had a couple of days off. The apartment was perfect for relaxing, and more importantly, it was a nice space to write and go through our photographs. There’s always something for us to do, and we’re usually kept busy, so this was a welcome break. We couldn’t have chosen better days for it, as the weather wasn’t great — a few thundery showers and greyer skies during the day. By evening, it brightened up, giving us the waterfront for sunset, and we enjoyed a couple of movie nights in.
This brought us up to our last full day. The weather was good, with sun forecast all day, and there were still a few places on my to-do list in Singapore. It was also a Sunday, and we’d read that the trains and buses wouldn’t be as busy with fewer commuters, so it would work out perfectly for our last day trip.
So off we went, for one final time, back to the station — the bus, the MRT. We got off once more at Raffles Place, as it was close to Chinatown. We also wanted to walk back down along the waterfront. It was all starting to get familiar now; we were getting to know the city better with each visit.
We also wanted to visit one of the city’s many hawker centres. Hawker centres in Singapore are a cornerstone of the city’s food culture. People always say Singapore is expensive, but you can easily do it on a budget. Transport is cheap, drinks are affordable if you know where, and food at the hawker centres — which are essentially food courts selling local dishes are inexpensive.
Lau Pa Sat is one of the city’s most popular hawker centres, located in downtown close to Raffles Place. It was also on the way to Chinatown, so we decided to check it out along the way. Unfortunately, we weren’t hungry, having had a big breakfast before we left, but that didn’t stop us from looking around. I love seeing all the different stalls and what they sell, even if we weren’t buying anything. It’s especially popular for Indian and Malay dishes — wish I’d been hungry, ha!
Chinatown was fascinating, with colourful shophouses, lanterns, and street markets alongside trendy cafes, all reflecting Singapore’s Chinese heritage. Here you can find the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum — a stunning temple housing a sacred relic — and the Sri Mariamman Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, known for its ornate gopuram (tower) and vibrant festivals.
You feel a million miles away from modern Singapore, yet just behind are skyscrapers framing these traditional terraced streets. We’ve seen many places like this on our travels, and I love the old Chinese shophouses and the smell of incense wafting from the temples.
The hawker centres are also popular here, and it says by nightfall the streets light up with lanterns, food stalls get busy, and the area becomes lively and atmospheric. A shame we wouldn’t get to see it this time.
We walked up to the Chinatown MRT, as our next stop on my list was a district known as Kampong Glam, located in central Singapore near Bugis and City Hall MRT. Historically, it’s the Malay-Muslim quarter of Singapore, with a mix of cultural, religious, and commercial sites. The most popular streets to visit are Arab Street and Haji Lane.
Omg, what a vibe! We loved it here. Haji Lane was amazing — a narrow lane filled with colourful street art, boutique shops, and hip cafes and bars. It was quirky and much better than I’d expected. Then, just around the corner at Arab Street, I felt as if I’d been transported back to Turkey. It’s known for textile shops, carpets, traditional fabrics, and Middle Eastern goods.
There was a street lined with restaurants, all trying to lure you in — Middle Eastern and Turkish cuisine, with places like Cappadocia Restaurant and Antalya Restaurant. I honestly felt like I was in Turkey! At the end of the street stood the Sultan Mosque in all its glory, with its iconic golden dome, the focal point of the district.
I can only imagine how fantastic this place would be at night, when the cafés and bars fill up and the street lights and lanterns create a warm, inviting vibe — if only we’d had more time. But at least we got to see it and take in the amazing atmosphere of the place!
We had one more place to visit on our list, and that was Little India. We decided to take the MRT, which was just a couple of stops away.
I’d read that Little India is one of the city’s most vibrant and colourful districts, but to be honest, it was my least favourite. It still had the brightly coloured shophouses and bustling streets full of shops, markets, temples, and restaurants, but it just didn’t have the same vibe for me — probably just personal preference. We took a look in the Tekka Hawker Centre and wet market, which sells authentic Indian food, fresh produce, and local goods. The food court was packed with locals enjoying the food and, more so, the drinks. Every group seemed to be enjoying cans of beer, which were sold cheaply — probably a popular Sunday activity. Well, at least we saw it and ticked everything off the list.
Our last day had really been about soaking up the city’s incredible diversity. Walking these streets felt like stepping into three different worlds, yet we were still in the heart of modern Singapore.
It finished off our time here in Singapore perfectly, I’d say we saw everything we wanted to and got to know the city a little bit and will always be a place we have fond memories of.
We’ve got to make the trip back to JB for one last time and we’ve timed it so we can head straight to the JB waterfront as tonight is our last evening so we can relax, have a nice meal and enjoy a few beers and then more important only have a short walk home.
So, did our plan pay off — staying in JB and commuting each day? For us, and for anyone travelling on a budget, I’d say yes! Most definitely.
If you were on holiday, I’d probably say no — I’d spend the extra cash on a hotel in Singapore. The days did end up being long with all the travelling, and all the walking didn’t help either. But the pros outweighed the cons: we got to return each time to an amazing waterfront apartment with fantastic views. For the same money in Singapore, we’d likely be staying in a capsule hotel or much further out, still with a commute. So, definitely no regrets. When the new Rapid Transit opens, maybe the commute will be much easier. Meanwhile, we got to experience two cities for the price of one and had an amazing time.
Tomorrow we move on, returning to Borneo. When we visited last year, we were in the north, in Sabah. This time we are visiting Sarawak in the south, heading to the city of Kuching. We hope to see more orangutans, but we’re also hoping to spot the Proboscis monkey — Borneo is the only place in the world where they live. We did see them last time, but only from a distance, so we’re returning in the hope of seeing them up close. Of course, with wildlife, nothing is guaranteed, but we’ll have a good go at trying!
Kuching
Our next destination was Kuching. When we visited Borneo last year, a lady asked if we’d ever been to Kuching. She sold it to us in that conversation, so it’s been on our radar ever since — hence our visit now!
Since then, I’d read up on Kuching and Sarawak in general and found it quite fascinating. To give you a little history rundown — Kuching was once a quiet riverside settlement that grew into the capital of Sarawak, shaped largely by the fascinating Brooke era — a time when the region was ruled not by a local sultan or a European empire, but by a family of British adventurers known as the “White Rajahs.”
It all began in 1841, when James Brooke, an Englishman and former soldier, was rewarded with the territory of Sarawak by the Sultan of Brunei for helping to suppress a local rebellion. Brooke became the first White Rajah and began modernising the area, introducing new laws and trade systems while maintaining strong ties with local communities.
Over the next century, the Brooke family ruled Sarawak as a personal kingdom. They built forts, government offices, and schools — many of which still stand today — blending British and local styles. Their rule ended in 1946, when Sarawak became a British Crown Colony before later joining Malaysia in 1963.
It was only a short flight from Johor Bahru taking just 1 hour and 20 minutes. We’d booked a mid-afternoon flight, so by the time we landed and took the 25-minute taxi ride into Kuching city centre, it was just starting to get dark.
We booked another apartment for our stay here.
We like to take advantage whenever we can, as in some places we visit, apartments just aren’t really a thing.
There weren’t too many options in Kuching, but I did manage to find one on the outskirts of the centre, about a 15-minute walk from the waterfront.
It offered the usual home-from-home comforts — a kitchen, washing machine, and the added bonus of a lovely pool.
It didn’t take us long to organise ourselves and the head out to see what it was like in the centre and along the waterfront.
Our first impressions as we walked from the apartment weren’t anything special, but we held off on making any judgments since it was more of a residential area. As we neared the waterfront, things started to change — everything became more polished, with big hotels like the Hilton and Sheraton, shopping malls (of course — it’s Malaysia!), and plenty of restaurants and tasteful cafés.
Along the waterfront, the standout sight across the river was the magnificent State Legislative Assembly Building — a huge, golden structure with an umbrella-shaped roof. Being lit up its reflection shimmered perfectly in the Sarawak River.
The trees along the riverside promenade were also illuminated, and the walkway led all the way down to the Darul Hana Bridge — a striking, S-shaped pedestrian bridge linking both sides of the river.
The road running alongside the promenade Jalan Main Bazaar, one of Kuching’s oldest streets. It’s lined with rows of traditional shophouses, their colourful facades and wooden shutters housing a mix of antique stores, craft shops, and little bistros.
Scattered among the old shophouses are a few elegant colonial-era buildings that hint at Kuching’s past under British rule. One of the most striking was the Old Courthouse which is now home to cafés, boutiques, and a small gallery.
Just behind the Main Bazaar lies Carpenter Street, one of Kuching’s most atmospheric lanes. Narrow and full of character, it’s lined with rows of old Chinese shophouses, many of which have been passed down through generations. It’s a mix of temples, hardware stores, and little cafés. Lanterns were strewn across the narrow street, and a few bars and restaurants made it the perfect place to stop to have dinner.
We’d had a little taster of the city and looked forward to exploring more after a good night’s sleep.
The following morning we headed out. From our short time here, we’d already noticed lots of cat statues dotted around — it was all about cats! A quick bit of research revealed that the name Kuching quite literally means “cat” in Malay, and the city has fully embraced its feline connection. There are statues all over, each with its own quirky personality — from the elegant white cats that greet you near the city centre to the playful family of cats at what we discovered is the famous roundabout. It’s a fun, light-hearted touch that gives the city so much character.
Kuching is a wonderful mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian influences, each community adding its own flavour to the city. It’s especially noticeable as you wander through the old streets — the air filled with the scent of incense from Chinese temples and the sound of the call to prayer from nearby mosques.
One of the most vibrant stretches was the Chinese street leading up to the Cat Column — a colourful area lined with red lanterns, temples, and little shops selling everything from herbs to souvenirs. The smell of Chinese food filled the air as we walked past countless eateries, and the bakeries selling traditional pastries and breads were just as popular. Colourful murals decorated the walls of many buildings, adding even more charm to the walk.
From here we headed back along Carpenter Street, then onto India Street — a pedestrianised lane covered with a modern glass canopy, making it a cool and shady place to wander. It was lined with traditional textile shops, tailors, and stalls selling sarongs, scarves, and spices.
Even though the street was shaded, it was still hot. The good thing is, you’re never far from a mall, so we decided to take refuge in the closest one. Plus, it’s always a good excuse to wander through the department stores — not having much spare weight in our luggage means we can’t buy much, but if we do, it’s out with the old and in with the new — just for a bit of retail therapy!
Cooled and refreshed, we continued exploring and walked back towards the waterfront. Along the riverside stood a beautiful mosque, we also noticed small, colourful traditional boats moored at little jetties along the riverbanks, ferrying people back and forth across the water. We didn’t need to take one, as we were heading towards the famous pedestrian bridge, which would take us across to the other side and up to the grand State Building.
The temperature was rising in the midday sun, and the bridge offered little shade. There were a couple of covered sections, which we happily used as rest stops. It’s quite a long bridge to cross, especially with its twisty design.
Once we’d crossed and reached the State Building, the pathway swept around towards the waterfront, where there were some lovely seating areas and a few cafés to relax in — even an inviting ice cream parlour that was hard to resist.
You can’t actually visit or go inside the State Building, as it’s a government complex and closed to the public, but it’s still an impressive sight up close. The huge golden roof and intricate design make it one of Kuching’s most recognisable landmarks, and it really dominates the skyline from every angle. Even from the opposite side of the river, it’s hard not to be drawn to its striking architecture.
From the State Building, we followed the path to the right that led gently uphill towards the large state flag and the old fort. Fort Margherita is a whitewashed fortress built in the 19th century during the Brooke era. Although it’s now more of a historical landmark and museum than a fort, it’s beautifully preserved and offers wonderful views back across to the waterfront.
The temperatures were now soaring — we both agreed this was the hottest weather we’d experienced since setting off on our trip. Phew! It was sweltering, and the thought of walking back over that bridge was a little daunting. So we decided that if we walked a bit further along the waterfront walkway, it would eventually lead up to the main road, where we could take a taxi back to our apartment. We’d already walked for hours, so we didn’t feel guilty — plus, we’d have time to sample the swimming pool that was calling our names.
The walkway was a wooden boardwalk running right along the river, and we were surprised to see a sign ahead warning, “Beware of Crocodiles.” Well, we wouldn’t have minded spotting one — but only from a distance! Thankfully, we didn’t see any to decide whether that was a good thing or a bad thing, and getting that taxi turned out to be a great idea — five minutes later, we were on our way back for that well-deserved swim.
Later that evening, we headed back out towards Carpenter Street, as it seemed like a hip place. The good thing about our apartment being that little bit further out was that we was definitely getting our steps in — that extra walking back and forth to the centre would easily earn us a beer or two!
We came across a very busy bar along the street, with tables and chairs spilling out under two large gazebos. A local musician, dressed in traditional indigenous attire, was playing an unusual instrument that produced a hypnotic, trance-like rhythm. It was incredibly atmospheric — the place was buzzing with a mix of locals, tourists, and expats.
We quickly got chatting to a local guy who was extremely informative — in fact, he’d spent a lot of his life in the UK as well. He had British connections but had chosen to settle back here in Kuching, where he also had family.
The cheap beer flowed — you can get buckets of imported beer here for very little! Many seemed to take advantage of that; I think every table had a beer bucket, and it seems the locals enjoy a drink too — perhaps thanks to the Chinese influence.
The guy we were chatting to also told us that the Mid-Autumn Festival was coming up, and that the street would be transformed the next day with food stalls and all sorts of festivities. There was also a three-day Cowboy Festival happening just a short drive out of town — I wasn’t sure we’d make it to that, but it certainly seemed like everything was happening.
We had a great night soaking up the vibes , and on the walk home I noticed a poster announcing a three-day Cat Festival taking place on the waterfront — another event we’d be able to check out.
Around the Kuching area, there are lots of things to do. Getting around is cheap and easy — taxis are readily available, and the city also runs a good bus service.
Sarawak is also one of the places where you can see the world’s largest single flower — the Rafflesia. It can grow up to 1 meter (3 feet) in diameter and weigh up to 10 kilograms (22 pounds). It emits a strong odor of rotting flesh, hence its nickname, corpse flower. The smell attracts carrion flies that help pollinate it. The most reliable spot to see them is at Gunung Gading National Park, where park rangers post notices when one is blooming. The bud takes months to develop, and the bloom lasts only three to five days before it withers.
As much as I’d like to see one of the flowers our main reason for coming to Borneo has always been the wildlife, so one morning we decided to visit the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre, a sanctuary dedicated to the conservation of orangutans.
Located about a 30-minute drive from the city the centre provides a safe haven for rescued and rehabilitated orangutans, many of which were orphaned or rescued from the illegal pet trade.
You can actually take the free city bus to the Wildlife Centre, but we weren’t sure where to catch it and didn’t want to miss the feeding. So, we took a taxi to get there early — the feeding only takes place twice a day, once between 9 and 10 a.m. and again between 3 and 4 p.m.
There is just a small entrance fee of £1.50 per adult, and you can either then walk or pay a further fee to take the electric shuttle towards the feeding area — we were happy to walk.
The keepers open the feeding platform, and the orangutans come down from the forest to collect fruit. This is not guaranteed, as these orangutans are free to come and go as they please. One of the keepers explained that at this time of year, fruits are plentiful in the forest, so they cannot promise a visit. To encourage them, a few of the keepers headed into the forest and called out to the orangutans in the hope they would come down to the feeding platform.
We all waited patiently, and between them, the keepers radioed to say it looked like two were heading our way. It was exciting, awaiting their arrival.
It was around 9:30 a.m. when we saw the trees moving high in the canopy. All of us went silent, waiting for the big gingers — and we actually got lucky, as three made their way to the platform.
We was hoping to see one of the large males with the large cheek pads, these are known as a Flanged Male Orangutan and they do have two that live here at the wildlife park but unfortunately today they didn’t make an appearance.
Watching these incredible creatures move gracefully through the trees is amazing — it’s a rare opportunity to see them so close in a semi-natural environment. We’ve been lucky to see them on several occasions now, in both Borneo and Sumatra, which are the only places on Earth where they live. The centre also educates visitors about the challenges these endangered animals face and the importance of rainforest conservation.
Even though it’s just outside the city, the setting feels remote and peaceful, giving you a real sense of being immersed in Borneo’s incredible wildlife.
Taking a taxi back into the city, the driver told us there is also a crocodile sanctuary nearby, which also has feeding times. We decided to leave it for now, but I’m sure it’s worth a visit.
We were happy to get back for some lunch and spend a bit of time at the apartment before heading back out later.
That evening, we got a shock when we walked back up to Carpenter Street. Overnight, the street had been completely transformed for the festival. It had been pedestrianised, and all the way along were stalls on either side selling food and drinks. Omg, it was food heaven! Everything from roasted pork, skewers of all kinds of meat, fish, oysters, sweet treats and lots of Chinese and Taiwanese dishes — which was perfect, as we adore street food in Taiwan and recognised many of the dishes here.
One of the little street food treats we couldn’t resist was the deep-fried sweet potato balls: golden and crispy on the outside, with a soft, sweet, slightly chewy interior — absolutely delicious. The Chinese deep-fried breads filled with pork mince were gorgeous too.
Alongside all the food temptations, the street was buzzing with bars and music. The atmosphere was fantastic. Even the bar we’d visited the night before had been transformed for the occasion: stalls out front selling sangria and rice wine cocktails, and the gazebos were now draped in fabric and palm leaves — it was brilliant.
We had another fabulous evening — we were really starting to enjoy the vibe in Kuching. The people are super friendly, always interested in conversation and welcoming us to Sarawak. There’s a real sense of community here, and it’s plain to see.
Eager to see more wildlife and probably the main reason for our return to Borneo — we were especially keen to see the Proboscis monkeys. We had seen them in the north last year along the Kinabatangan River in Sabah, but they were very high in the trees, so this time we were hoping to see them a little closer. Plus, we’d invested in better camera equipment, so we might have a better chance of getting a good shot.
When I say “better camera equipment,” I don’t mean one of those massive lenses that we see many keen photographers carrying — we simply don’t have the space for anything that big, so we’d have to make do with what we have.
The place where you have a good chance of seeing Proboscis monkeys, alongside other wildlife, is Bako National Park, which is the closest national park to Kuching.
It takes around 40–50 minutes by car from the city centre, and there’s also a bus that runs approximately every hour.
We decided to take the bus, and this time I knew exactly where it stopped. The first bus departs at 7 a.m., so we set off early — the earlier you get to the park, the better, as there’s more chance of seeing the monkeys in the early morning.
The bus was on time, and we were practically the only passengers on board. It didn’t stop much either; there was only one other passenger the whole way, so it was just as convenient as taking a taxi. There was no need to worry about knowing where to get off, as the final stop was at the Bako jetty.
Bako National Park is inaccessible by road, so from the jetty, you need to take a short boat ride to reach the park entrance. The boats are operated by the park authorities and run regularly throughout the day. The ride takes around 15–20 minutes and offers a scenic introduction, gliding past mangroves and coastal forests. It’s a fun and slightly adventurous start to the visit — you really feel like you’re heading into a protected rainforest.
We ended up taking a private boat, which did cost a little more since you pay per boat. I’d read that if you wait for other tourists, you could share the cost, but waiting with no guarantee would reduce our chances of seeing the monkeys in the early morning — so we decided to just stand the cost.
You also pay an entrance fee to enter the national park and when you arrive you have to register at the HQ.
We exited the boat and followed the signs to the HQ (alongside a sign warning, “Beware of Crocodiles!”). A decked boardwalk led through the forest towards the HQ, passing by the park lodgings. You can also stay within the park — they offer basic chalets and dormitory-style lodges, all run by the park authorities. I’d read that they tend to book up quickly, so it’s best to reserve online in advance.
As we neared HQ, we got our first glimpse of wildlife — Shane spotted a silvered leaf langur monkey in one of the trees. Fab! We love all wildlife, so this was a real treat. While he was happily clicking away, I went along to register us.
When you register, they give you lots of information and maps. Bako National Park is famous for its network of trails, each offering a different experience of Borneo’s rainforest, wildlife, and coastline. Trails vary in length and difficulty, so there’s something for everyone. The staff advised us on which trails are more likely to feature proboscis monkeys, silvered leaf monkeys, and monitor lizards, and which ones offer stunning coastal views, cliffs, and beaches.
No matter which trail you choose, you’ll encounter a mix of lush forest, mangroves, hidden beaches, and panoramic vistas, making every walk rewarding.
I caught back up with Shane, who was now photographing a Bornean bearded pig wandering near HQ. We were lucky — these fascinating creatures are a unique species native to Southeast Asia, recognisable by their prominent beard and sometimes tassels on their tail.
We then set off on the first trail, listed as moderate and taking around 1½ hours. We followed the signs that led us into the rainforest. It was a bit naive of us, but we hadn’t realised just how much the trails would take us into the jungle. It wasn’t quite as challenging as our Sumatran trek, but it was still a proper jungle hike.
We were constantly on the lookout for wildlife, and I was especially cautious for vipers. The pit vipers here are typically green or yellowish-green, blending perfectly with the forest surroundings. While their venom can be dangerous, bites are rare, and they are generally not aggressive unless provoked.
We worked up a sweat as the trail climbed uphill, making it a little challenging. Eventually, it led us to a viewpoint overlooking the rainforest and the beach below. Unfortunately, we hadn’t seen any wildlife along the trail, so we retraced our steps and continued to the next trail we had been advised to explore.
The second trail was much easier — much flatter than the first. The initial section led us along a decked walkway, which was pleasant, before veering off and climbing slightly, only to dip back down toward the beach and mangroves.
At the edge of the beach, the mangroves have an eerie, almost haunting look. Many of the trees appear dead, their twisted, skeletal trunks and exposed roots jutting out of the shallow water. It’s a stark contrast to the lush rainforest behind.
It was here that we saw the monkeys — though not the proboscis monkeys we had come for. Instead, it was a family of cheeky macaques crossing the sand, heading back into the forest. We still love all monkeys; they never fail to fascinate us. One adult was dragging what appeared to be a large crab, while the young juveniles played energetically nearby.
We then headed back toward HQ, still on the lookout for proboscis monkeys, although our chances now were probably slim, as they were likely deep in the park and only returning late in the afternoon.
We got talking to a couple of backpackers who were staying in one of the lodges. They said they’d been here a couple of days and had seen loads of proboscis monkeys around the lodges and HQ — but only early in the morning and again late afternoon. While they themselves had trekked the trails, they hadn’t seen any there. So, unless you get lucky, you’re probably best staying overnight if you can.
On a day trip like ours, you have to get the boat back before 3 p.m., as the boats stop running due to the changing tides. So, for day trippers, the only real chance of seeing proboscis monkeys is first thing in the morning. We had arrived as early as possible, but today we didn’t get lucky — still, we were grateful to have seen other wildlife.
When we arrived back in town, the festival was still in full swing. We walked along the waterfront to check out the Cat Festival, and later it would be the parade and ‘Best Dressed Cat’ competition. We had to laugh at some of the costumes — some were funny, while others were quite extravagant, matched by owners who had dressed up equally for the occasion.
Carpenter Street was still buzzing, as the festival was running for 10 days. Every time we went, something different seemed to be happening. This time, the clatter of firecrackers erupted from a nearby Chinese temple, accompanied by the pounding of drums. Smoke drifted through the air from the firecrackers, so we rushed over and were lucky to see the dragon dance just starting.
Two dragons, one yellow and one red, twisted and turned. Performers underneath moved them in perfect sync, making them appear alive, leaping and swaying. The crowd loved it, and afterwards the dragons continued all the way down Carpenter Street, followed by a lively group of drummers. It was brilliant!
There was still more of the city we hadn’t explored, so the following day we set out to do just that. We first headed to Kuching South City Hall, an impressive building with a modern design featuring a prominent central spire. Alongside the hall was a well-maintained park with walking paths and ponds. The cat theme was evident here as well, with statues dotted around, including one right at the main gates.
We continued to the Chinese gates at the start of Chinatown. Here, there were even more charming cat statues — I especially loved the one propping up a tree. Everyone seemed to enjoy the statues; we saw coachloads of tourists stopping to take photos, especially with the Cat Family statue at the roundabout.
Back toward the waterfront, we sauntered past the colonial-era buildings. Many of these structures were once administrative offices or merchant houses, and their preservation adds charm to the modern promenade which is lively and well-used. There’s plenty of benches to sit and watch the world go by and it’s also a popular spot for people exercising, or just to watch the boats cruise along the Sarawak River. In the late afternoon, the larger boats fill up as people head out on sunset river cruises, offering a picturesque view of the city from the river.
We were enjoying our time here so much that we decided to extend our stay but move closer to the center. I found a lovely hotel right in the heart of the action, just a one-minute walk from Carpenter Street.
Another tour also caught our interest — one where we might get one last chance to see proboscis monkeys. We’d be fools not to try, so we booked the wetlands wildlife cruise, an afternoon trip setting off just before dusk. This timing increased our chances of spotting the proboscis monkeys as they returned to the mangrove areas to feed. The tour also said there was a good chance of spotting Irrawaddy dolphins, a rare species, as well as crocodiles and fireflies. It sounded perfect, and even if we didn’t see everything, we were sure it would make for a memorable afternoon.
There were 15 of us altogether, a friendly group and a mix of nationalities: a few more Brits, an Indian family, and a German girl.
As soon as we boarded the boat and set off, the boat driver spotted a crocodile. To make things easier for us, he explained that he would call out directions like “12 o’clock” or “3 o’clock” to indicate where to look. We quickly picked up the instructions.
He cut the engine, and we moved closer toward the crocodile it was enormous! We all kept completely silent as the croc just hovered slowly, but then I think it noticed us being so close and dropped below the surface. It’s a funny feeling, as you never know when it will next appear — 3 o’clock, 6 o’clock… Anyway, we didn’t wait; thankfully he started the engine back up and we headed into the estuary in search of dolphins.
It wasn’t long before we spotted the dolphins — there were around three of them. The boat had to keep moving quickly to keep up with them, constantly trying to predict their direction. By now, all of us on the boat were shouting out the directions.
They were almost impossible to photograph. We managed to get a couple of shots but they wasn’t the best, and that was it. Still, we were more than happy to see them. The boatman mentioned that in the mornings, there are usually lots more.
Satisfied that we’d all seen them, the driver continued toward the mangroves, where we hoped to spot the proboscis monkeys.
As we neared the mangroves, the driver said, 11 o’clock — yes! Proboscis monkeys at last, they’re here! As we got closer, you could see their distinctive orange fur, though not quite close enough yet to spot their famous noses — hopefully that would come.
Then, all of a sudden, we saw loads of them, many up high in the trees, some lower and close to the water’s edge. The driver got as close as he could. The only thing stopping us from getting really close was the water level — if it had been higher, we would have been right beside them. Anyway, we weren’t complaining — can you imagine how excited we were?
The boat was almost banked as we tried to edge closer, and that’s when we noticed little mudskipper fish. These quirky little creatures were fascinating in their own right, dragging themselves across the muddy banks — they can even climb! If we hadn’t been so focused on the monkeys, we could have spent ages observing the mudskippers too.
We were made up — click, click, taking as many pictures as we could. It was still quite difficult, though, with the monkeys constantly moving around the trees. Shane was hoping to get a picture of one of the older males, as these are the ones with the bigger noses. The bigger the nose, the more attractive they are to the females. The younger ones are cute too, with their little pixie noses.
We’ve seen a lot of different species of monkeys now, but these ones are so unusual. All monkeys and apes have an almost human quality to them, but you can’t help but laugh at these —they’re brilliant!
We stayed quite a while observing them, which was fantastic. A fight must have been breaking out in one of the trees, and you should have heard them — they make the most unusual sounds, almost like a cow. We even got a chance to observe the little mudskippers a bit more, which was nice.
So there was only the fireflies left to see, and if we got to see them, we could tick every box on the tour list and be very satisfied guests indeed.
And we did! The driver took us over to some trees where he probably knew we’d have a chance of seeing them. He shone a torch on the branches, and tiny fireflies began to twinkle, their lights blinking in perfect harmony like a natural light show. The driver even caught one and placed it in my hand. I cupped my hands around it, and it shone brightly in my palm. It really was the most magical sight, an enchanting end to an already incredible day. Wow — we were complete. Borneo had delivered!
Back in town we were in for one more treat, this town kept on giving. Back near Carpenter street a group of dancers filled the street with local musicians all in traditional dress. A large crowd gathered to watch of which we joined. The music and dance stared and you really couldn’t help but smile. This place really lifts your spirits. Then after the dance came the dragon dance once more, it was so colourful and vibrant.
We got talking to more people while here and told them what a wonderful time we’d had, and how lucky we were to have timed our visit for the festival. They said there are so many festivals in Kuching that most times you visit, some event or another will be happening. The city has a jam-packed calendar of goings-on all year round — soon it would be Oktoberfest, then the Regatta. It really would be a cool place to live. There are quite a few expats, and you can understand why — the city truly has a lot to offer.
This brought us to our last day. We decided to enjoy the hotel, which had a fabulous pool, have a nice, relaxing, chilled day. Then as night fell we planned to walk around the town once more and we definitely wanted to head towards the waterfront to see everything lit at night once more.
We headed first to India Street, which had already closed for the evening, but it was still worth walking through, if only to take a few photos. From there, we crossed over to the waterfront, which led down to the mosque. The trees lining the promenade were all lit up, as was the mosque, which looked lovely reflected in the water.
A little further along brought us back to the bridge. I said to Shane, “Let’s cross it once more,” as by night The Astana—the official residence of the governor, which lies to the left of the Assembly Building—was also illuminated. I’d say it was a bit overdone, with more lights than a Christmas tree, but they do seem to love their lights here.
As we crossed the bridge, even that was lit to the hilt, with colour-changing lights and shifting bands of colour underfoot as we walked. Definitely good for photos, though. The little boats travelling back and forth across the river were also brightly lit.
Then, to top it all off, when we crossed back over we noticed lots of people sitting on the steps by the riverbank. Music began to play, and we realised the nightly water, light, and music show was about to start. We’d completely forgotten about it, having been caught up with the festival most nights. It turned out to be really good—the water jets, lighting effects, and music were perfectly synchronised, creating an immersive performance. I’m so glad we got to see it.
Happy we’d experienced it all, we headed back to Carpenter Street to “our bar,” which had become a firm favourite. We never failed to have a good night there—we always ended up chatting with someone—and our last night was no exception. It was actually quite sad when we had to say goodbye. Kuching had become one of those places that exceeded our expectations, a city we’ll always remember fondly.
But it’s all good, because tomorrow we leave for Bali—yes, beach time! We haven’t had a proper beach vibe in a while, so it will be very much welcomed. We’ll fly first back to Kuala Lumpur, then connect to Bali, where we’ll continue back on our Indonesian adventure starting in Sanur.
From here, head over to the “Indonesia Round 2” tab to continue our adventure – starting right after Surabaya.
Kuala Lumpur
After spending a month back in Indonesia exploring Bali and Flores, we’ve returned to Malaysia once again. If you’re following our journey in order, you might want to read from Bali “Indonesia — Round 2” first, but this section also works perfectly well on its own.
With a flight time of just over three hours from Bali, we arrived in Kuala Lumpur in the early evening. The airport is quite far from the city, and it takes around an hour a quarter to reach Bukit Bintang, the district where we were staying. We decided to take a taxi for door-to-door convenience, and it actually worked out cheaper than the express train so a no brainer.
We were looking forward to seeing the apartment we’d booked. It’s centrally located and a great base for exploring the city. After almost four months back on the road, we were more than ready for some home comforts — the little things like a kitchen, a lounge area, and a washing machine. We weren’t in any rush to leave Kuala Lumpur.
The apartment exceeded our expectations, with amazing views over Merdeka 118 (world’s 2nd largest building). It was a bit on the high side on the 22nd floor, so Shane wouldn’t be going out on the balcony — it even freaked me out a bit, I won’t lie.
When we’d arrived, I noticed an Indian restaurant directly across the street from the apartment — perfect! It was already getting late, so we were more than happy to check out that place for supper, then have a bit of telly — told you we were after home comforts. The big city could wait; we will have plenty of time to check out the nightlife, and I’ll tell you, there’s a lot of it around here. We were smack bang in the middle of the entertainment area, so if anything, it might be a bit noisy — we’ll see!
The restaurant didn’t disappoint — a bit too handy, if anything. I know we’ll be back. Tomorrow we’ll stock up the fridge and cupboards with supplies. I’m so looking forward to cooking again — it’s been a while.
We weren’t planning on rushing around this time in Kuala Lumpur since we covered most of the sights on our last visit. That doesn’t mean we won’t go back to some of them though — we couldn’t come to KL without seeing the Petronas Towers; they’re architecturally amazing. We also love KLCC Park just behind them, which is the perfect spot to relax and enjoy the skyline. We’d also like to see some of the touristy sights at night, which we missed last time. It’ll be a different kind of trip, and we’ll probably discover new places along the way — it’s a great city, so we’re still excited.
We didn’t do too much in our first week in Kuala Lumpur — and honestly, that was exactly what we needed. The weather wasn’t the best, so we slipped into a gentle routine of food and clothes shopping, cooking, writing, and long, lazy swims. I even bought a whisk — yes, you heard right — just what every backpacker needs to carry in their rucksack. Oh, and some cooking tongs too! I’m carrying everything but the kitchen sink… and they’ve already been used multiple times — ha!
One of the highlights was discovering a supermarket that sold smoked bacon — a rare treasure in Malaysia — which meant we could finally make a proper fry-up breakfast (naughty but nice)! We also stocked up on everything we needed to cook a hearty stew, which made the apartment feel even more like home. We did, however, rotate this with visits to that Indian restaurant across the street — far too handy!
When we weren’t wandering through the malls (KL has a lot) or hunting for ingredients, we got to spend time in the incredible infinity pool at our building. From the water, we had a perfect view of the KL Tower — we chose well with this apartment block… well, apart from the boom boom boom of music until the early hours from the pub street below (thankfully we can still sleep — just)!
So no big adventures this week… just settling in, recharging, and enjoying the simple comforts. Sometimes that’s the best way.
By week two, the weather had improved, and we were more than happy to get back on the tourist trail. So we headed to the Petronas Towers—we’d caught glimpses of them throughout the week between the buildings—but today we’d see them once more in all their glory.
They were only a twenty-minute walk from our apartment passing by the iconic KL Tower on the way, and as they come into view, they really do wow you. Such an impressive sight—they almost look futuristic. With the sun out, they gleam as the light hits them. The gardens at the front are one of the most popular photo spots, so we joined the crowds taking photos and selfies. We took the exact same picture here last year, and we felt privileged to be back.
You can then cut through the Petronas Mall (yes, another mall—you wouldn’t believe how many!) which leads you to KLCC Park behind it. This is where they have a lake and fountains. They do a music and light show each evening, which we’ll return to see. During the day, it’s lovely to enjoy the park: there are lots of big shady trees, benches, and pathways, even a swimming pool for children (so wish we could use it) and the skyline from here is really impressive. Alongside the Petronas Towers is a whole cluster of skyscrapers.
We enjoyed the park and the towers, and weather-wise it was the perfect day (although it’s still hot — really humid). But I’m not complaining!
We thought we’d end our day with a few drinks at Changkat Bukit Bintang, the bar street on our doorstep. Dozens of bars, pubs and restaurants are lined up close together, and from early evening until late at night the whole street transforms into a buzzing nightlife spot — perfect for people-watching, bar-hopping and live music. (Yes, we know — we hear it every night!)
We had a great night, but we’re also very glad we can escape it. For the next few evenings, it’s back to binging Netflix.
So our days continued at a laidback pace, it almost felt like we lived here, pottering about. We visited more parks, one day spent at Perdana Botanical Gardens which is a few stops on the MRT and is Kuala Lumpur’s largest green space — a sprawling 226-acre park filled with lush tropical plants, lakes and shaded pathways.
They have themed botanical areas, including the Orchid and Hibiscus Gardens, and paths that lead you past beautifully landscaped lawns, sculptures, fountains, and even waterfalls that make you forget you’re in a capital city at all.
And then there’s the deer. Yes — a deer enclosure, right in the middle of the gardens. We found a little group of them attempting to keep cool by collapsing dramatically into muddy puddles. Honestly, we felt the same. If we could have, we’d have joined them.
Just next door is the KL Bird Park, which looks great but comes with an extra admission fee. We decided to give it a miss this time — the gardens themselves were more than enough for one outing, and let’s be honest, we’re pacing ourselves.
Another day we made our way to Masjid Putra — the Pink Mosque. It’s a bit out of the city in Putrajaya but the journey was part of the fun: 45 minutes on the MRT, a few stops underground, after that, the train ran above ground for the rest of the journey, so at least there were things to see as we passed through the suburbs. Even after hopping off, the mosque was still a short distance away, so we caught a local bus for a handful of pennies — about 10–15 minutes later, we were dropped right at the entrance.
The Pink Mosque is stunning, with its large pink dome and rose-tinted façade. Built in 1999, it stands lakeside on Putrajaya Lake. The area surrounding the mosque is spotless and well-maintained, home to government buildings, landscaped gardens, and elegant bridges. A large fountain adorned the centre of the lake — very impressive indeed.
The only thing we didn’t have on our side was the weather, which was starting to turn. One minute the sun was out, and the next a thunderstorm was brewing. We had to be pretty quick if we wanted even a half-decent picture.
We couldn’t help but laugh at the sheer number of young women in pink floaty dresses, all after that perfect Instagram shot. Honestly, it’s a sight we see everywhere! Sometimes you almost have to borrow them as props yourself, because trying to get a photo in the middle of their mini photo shoot is basically impossible. Ha!
We did the best we could just before the heavens opened. Luckily, we were heading inside the mosque at the same time, so at least we could take shelter. Women are required to cover their arms, legs, and hair before entering the mosque. Fortunately, the mosque provides modest robes for female visitors — you can collect one at the entrance, wear it over your clothes, and return it after your visit.
There was no sign of the rain stopping, so we ended up getting a taxi back to the MRT station rather than wait for the bus. The trains are driverless, which always feels a bit weird and futuristic. We were right at the front, and being above ground, we were able to watch the storm as we travelled. The sky was black, and lightning flashed in the distance. At one point, it was so torrential that you could hardly see out — well, at least we timed it perfectly, and the weather didn’t spoil the whole day.
The rain still hadn’t let up when we exited at our stop — it was torrential, a proper downpour. We sheltered for five minutes alongside a crowd of people, all hoping it might ease. It didn’t, so we had to brave it and get completely drenched — at least it was still warm, not like back home when wet and cold. By the time we reached the apartment, we were absolutely soaked, though at least we could dry off.
You couldn’t even see the Merdeka building from the balcony because of the weather; it looked as if it had mysteriously disappeared behind a giant cloud. Typically, an hour later, the storm had passed, the sun was shining brightly between the clouds, and the Merdeka was once more in all its glory — really is an impressive building!
Between the unsettled weather, there were bright days. So when we woke up one morning to see the sun shining, we decided to explore more of Chinatown and the area around the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, the mosque, and Merdeka Square. We’d really enjoyed our last visit here and hoped we’d find some new hidden gems along the way.
Kuala Lumpur has its fair share of street art and murals. They adorn many of the back streets right by our apartment — everywhere you walk, you come across art. Even the city’s electric boxes are brightly painted with scenes from around the city. So the walk towards Chinatown was no exception. Whole sections were vividly painted alongside one carriageway in particular. It’s just everywhere, expressive, and guaranteed to brighten your day.
Wandering the streets near Chinatown, we loved the charming old Chinese shop houses that line the narrow roads, with their ornate wooden shutters, pastel-coloured walls, and traditional tiled roofs. Many still retain vintage signs or hand-painted motifs that hint at their former lives as family-run shops.
There’s always a surprise hidden away in the alleyways between them. Down one alley, we came across a “hole-in-the-wall” serving cold drinks. Next to it was a board with a selection of cards showing the drink names. You chose one and passed it through the hole — and from nowhere, a frightening monster hand appeared to take the order! A group of young backpackers were ordering, so we waited to see what would happen. Shortly after, the big scary hand reappeared with the drink, half-fighting to hand it over. It was all good fun — the girls loved it!
We came across streets filled with murals we’d never seen before — the city just keeps on giving, and we love it. We also stumbled upon Central Market, another place we’d missed last time. Locally known as Pasar Seni, it’s one of Kuala Lumpur’s iconic cultural landmarks. Originally built in 1888 as a wet market, it has since transformed into a vibrant arts, crafts, and cultural hub. The building retains its colonial-era charm, with high ceilings, arched windows, and a spacious central hall.
Since it was the weekend, there was loads going on, with food stalls selling all sorts of tasty goodies. We took advantage and stopped for a Chinese pastry — so delicious it would have been rude not to!
We walked towards the riverside (known locally as the River of Life) and headed to the Sultan Abdul Samad Jamek Mosque. The mosque is lovely, sitting at the point where the river branches off on either side. Unfortunately, there was a lot of building work going on — the grand Sultan Abdul Samad Government Building nearby was covered in scaffolding as it undergoes restoration. I’m glad we got to see it last year in all its glory; it’s such a beautiful building, and it would have been a shame not to have seen it properly.
We still walked around, and across to Merdeka square where you can normally take a great photo of the government building with the modern skyscrapers in the background. Never mind at least we got the photo last year.
Back in Chinatown we wanted to retrace our steps and find the alleyway where you see the striking contrast of the historic Chinese‑heritage shop‑houses and murals, with the modern tower of Merdeka 118 rising behind.
We soon found it, plus it’s a popular spot, so we only had to look out for hoards of people taking photos to know we were on the right street.
We also remembered that just around the corner is the charming Kwai Chai Hong, a restored back lane turned into a quirky street full of murals and heritage vibes. It really is a hidden gem — literally tucked behind the busier tourist streets of Chinatown — and it would be a shame if anyone missed it. The murals depict scenes from 1960s Kuala Lumpur: old‑school life, families, street vendors, and the atmosphere of old Chinatown. The street it’s just off is amazing too, with brightly painted shophouses and so much street art. We took far too many pictures — you just can’t help yourself!
We had another great day — this area has so much to offer. We’ll make sure to return one evening, as after dark, by the mosque, the River of Life has a light show. The riverside promenade apparently comes alive with colourful LED lights and fountains dancing in sync with music.
We also wanted to see the Petronas Towers by night, so one evening we headed back in that direction. I’d also seen photos of Saloma Bridge, which looks amazing. It’s a pedestrian link bridge that crosses the Klang River and connects the old‑town area of Kampung Baru with the KLCC/downtown district.
At night, the bridge is illuminated by colourful LED lights — the effect transforms it into a glowing structure, and with the Petronas Towers in the background, it looks spectacular. This was another first for us, as we hadn’t even known about it on our last visit. To save our legs, we took the MRT to Kampung Baru, and as soon as we exited, the bridge was there in all its glory, with the towers perfectly framed behind it (how did we miss this last time)! Well, at least we got to see it now.
After crossing the bridge, we headed to the Petronas Towers, which are so impressive at night — really wow! We cut through the mall (as much for the air conditioning and a cool-down as anything) and came out to the park behind to see the fountain show, which runs at half-hour intervals from 7:30 PM.
We sat across the lake to watch the show. This was another first, as last time we had witnessed it from one of the sky bars with a glass of wine in hand. This time, however, it was with a bottle of Coke from a park bench — although just as magical! Yeah, who am I kidding! Don’t worry, the bar is the next stop, so our dignity will be restored… or at least upgraded to a large red!
Over the next week, we had a few more mall visits (we’d done some serious retail therapy while here). We even found Malaysia’s equivalent of TK Maxx — it was definitely the same, just a different name; even the labelling and layout were identical. I love having a mooch, so I was in heaven in this store. The only problem? My bag was fit to burst, especially with whisks and tongs. So we have a rule: you buy something, you leave something — and I wasn’t about to lose the whisk. Chefs’ tools — you never know when I might need them again, ha!
We returned one evening to the River of Life. We were a little early for the light show, so we walked over to Chinatown. We were so glad we had — the quirky streets, and especially the alleyway with the Merdeka 118 in the background, looked amazing. The skyscraper almost didn’t look real the way it was lit; it was just black and white that evening (it changes all the time — having front-row seats from our apartment, we’ve seen it display all sorts of colours and light shows over the last few weeks).
We also walked back over to Kwai Chai Hong, the back alley with the murals. It was so quiet at night we almost had the place to ourselves — something you definitely can’t say during the day.
Unfortunately, we got our timing a bit wrong, and by the time we returned to the River of Life, the light show was just finishing. It said there would be another, so we sat and waited — but eventually had to give up as it started to rain, with no sign of another show. Never mind, we still got to see the river lit blue, with steam rising off it. It was quite atmospheric, although a little less so while sitting in the rain!
We’d spent almost 3 weeks by now in Kuala Lumpur, it felt like we’d stopped travelling. It didn’t matter, that’s the nice thing about not having a time frame, allowing us to slow down whenever we want, especially where visa entry is more relaxed, Malaysia allows you three months free on entry so your not pressured. However 3 weeks and we were definitely ready for a change.
We had one more day so we decided to spend it in Brickfields which is often referred to as Little India. It’s a colourful district filled with bright storefronts, vibrant flower garlands, sari shops and gold jewellers,- oh and the smell of incense fills the air- it’s one of my favourite smells.
Brickfields is also famous for its food. You’ll find dosa, biryani, thali sets, masala tea, and freshly baked roti canai everywhere — it’s a paradise for anyone who loves Indian cuisine and if you know us you’ll know it’s our favourite.
So it wasn’t long before the lure of spice in the air had us grabbing a seat at one of the busy street-side cafés. With so many Indian snacks and delights on offer, we wanted to try something new. I’d never tried pani puri, so this felt like the perfect moment.
Crispy hollow puri shells, delicately fried, are filled with spiced potato or mashed chickpeas, then topped with pani — a mint-and-coriander water — and finished with a crunchy sprinkle of sev (like Bombay mix).
You then pop the whole thing into your mouth in one go — trust us, there’s no elegant way to eat it.
Washed down with a spicy hot masala tea, it was the perfect treat, and we weren’t disappointed.
For our last evening, we wandered back to bar street for ‘just a couple’ of drinks (famous last words), before heading to the Indian restaurant that had become our firm favourite. It wasn’t the only place we’d tried over the last three weeks, but it was definitely up there — and far too conveniently located to resist. The staff greeted us like long-lost cousins, and of course we ended up at the same table yet again… absolute creatures of habit. Don’t worry though, we did mix it up by ordering different dishes each time — trying our best not to be completely boring. Ha!
So that brought a perfect end to our time in KL. We’d loved it just as before — it’s a great city with so much to offer. It probably won’t be the last time we visit, so for now, TTFN! Our next stop isn’t too far away; tomorrow we travel by bus, just a couple of hours, to Ipoh, a charming city in Perak often overlooked by visitors rushing to Penang or the Cameron Highlands. Luckily, we’re in no rush, so we’re looking forward to seeing what it has to offer.
Ipoh
We booked the bus to get to Ipoh—well, when I say bus, it was a coach. We love travelling this way; it always reminds me of being a kid on school trips. We had to make our way to the main bus station at KL Sentral, and from there it was pretty straightforward. The journey was supposed to take around two and a half hours, but it ended up being more like three and a half due to heavy traffic. It didn’t really matter—the seats were comfortable, and at least there were things to see along the way.
As we neared Ipoh, we were both surprised at how the landscape changed. The city is surrounded by dramatic limestone hills, and we hadn’t realised it was like this, so it was a really pleasant discovery. It even reminded me of Krabi in Thailand.
The bus station was just outside the town, but it didn’t take long to book a taxi. We liked what we saw as we entered the town; it looked like an interesting place, streets lined with the old Chinese shop houses that gave it that Malaysia charm. About twenty minutes later, we arrived at the hotel.
By the time we were settled in, it was late afternoon, so we just chilled and had a quick look at where to venture in the evening.
I made a list of restaurants worth visiting, along with a couple of bars. One bar that sounded interesting was the furthest out, so we decided to walk there first and familiarise ourselves with the town at the same time. Just around the corner, we spotted a night market that was just setting up. From what we had seen so far so good.
The bar I’d read about online sounded like a step back in time. Reviews said it hadn’t changed since it opened in 1931. We love a place with character, so we couldn’t resist taking a peek—and, of course, enjoying a couple of cold ones at the same time.
We entered through cowboy-style saloon doors. Oh yes, this place definitely had bags of character! As we’d read, time had truly stood still here, with bright pink walls, a green-painted floor, plastic chairs, an old wooden room divider, and a small grandfather clock.
It wasn’t a big place—around six tables, of which three were occupied. As soon as we entered, we were welcomed by the elderly couple who seemed to run the place, as well as by a group of gentlemen at another table. One of the chairs at our table was occupied by the family cat, which was fine by us!
We ordered two beers, which were brought over by the couple working as a team—he carried the beers, she brought the glasses. They asked where we were from, and we had a brief chat. A man at the next table joined in, asking how we had found out about the place. In the far corner, a young British couple was enjoying their evening too. We ended up chatting and joined tables, soon discovering we had plenty in common despite the age difference. They’d been traveling for fifteen months, mostly in Australia, so we had lots to talk about.
We had been planning to have dinner, but time had run away with us, and before we knew it, the elderly couple were getting ready to close. They were in their eighties and had been running the place for forty years, having taken it over from his family. It wasn’t too late, so our new friends asked if we fancied a nightcap and maybe a game of pool. Sounds like a plan—dinner was out the window anyway!
By the time we got back to the hotel in the early hours, we weren’t complaining—we’d had a truly great night.
The following day we wanted to explore the town fully. Ipoh was originally a tin mining town and its history is deeply tied to the tin industry.
In the 19th Century, the discovery of rich tin deposits along the Kinta River led to a tin mining boom, attracting Chinese labourers and traders. By the late 1800s, Ipoh had grown rapidly, becoming one of the wealthiest towns in the region due to tin mining.
The heart of the old town is perfect for exploring, with a charming mix of old colonial buildings and traditional Chinese shophouses. Many have been restored and now house cafés, boutiques, and art galleries.
We were also hungry after missing dinner the night before, so we decided to get some food first. I’d seen that Ipoh has a “Little India”—perfect, that would be our first choice. Everything was close together anyway, and we wanted to see it all, so we were happy to wander the streets of little India first filled with shops selling saris, spices, and garlands. My favourite smell—incense—also filled the air.
We soon found a restaurant—curry for breakfast! Well, it was almost lunch by then, and we can eat curry morning, noon, and night. Makes no difference to us—ha!
Fed and watered, we continued towards the heritage trail. We cut up by the old clock tower—also known as the Birch Memorial Clock Tower—which is one of the city’s most iconic colonial landmarks, and then made our way over to Ipoh Railway Station, often called the “Taj Mahal of Ipoh,” and Town Hall with its neoclassical columns.
We also noticed lots of street art. Like many other cities in Malaysia, Ipoh has become quietly famous for its murals, adding a modern, playful touch to its historic streets. You’re constantly looking out for it—down alleyways, on gable ends, tucked between shophouses. I especially loved the one we came across of the boys flying in a paper plane.
The town was full of charm and we were even more impressed when we found Concubine lane which we were aware was one of Ipoh’s famous and atmospheric streets.
Once part of the city’s red-light and entertainment quarter during the tin-mining boom, the lane is said to have been gifted by wealthy tin miners to their concubines—hence the name.
Today, Concubine Lane is a lively blend of history and street culture. There are cafés, quirky boutiques, souvenir shops, and food stalls. The lane is short — around 100 metres long — but packed with character. Over time, some old buildings became neglected, with trees growing inside or around them. Restoration efforts have revived many of these shophouses, though, so it’s a neat mix of old and restored.
We then headed back toward the hotel but veered off when we spotted an interesting side street. The whole lane was full of street art. At first, we couldn’t understand why it wasn’t more of a tourist attraction, but then we realised that it probably will be — it looked like they were laying a new road surface, whereas at first we thought it was just a neglected lane.
The streets around our hotel were also lined with numerous Chinese restaurants and bakeries. The city has a large Chinese community, many descendants of early tin-mining immigrants from southern China. Many eateries are highly rated, and locals and tourists often queue to sample the delights.
As last night ended up being a late one, we decided this evening to take a walk down to the river, as I’d read that it lights up at night and is quite charming. The plan was to do that and then have a telly night — we love catching up on a bit of Netflix. The room we’d booked was pretty good for that; it wasn’t an apartment, but it did have a little settee area to chill on.
Well… the riverside did not live up to what we’d imagined. After quite a long walk, we arrived to find a small stretch of river with a couple of restaurants and an area with kids whizzing around on go-karts. Not terrible — just not exactly the magical, lantern-lit riverside promenade I’d pictured. On the bright side, we got more steps in, and we were more than happy to dash back and binge some telly!
After discovering that Ipoh is encircled by limestone mountains, we learned many contain beautiful cave temples, which instantly went on our must-visit list.
The following day, we took a taxi to Perak Tong Cave Temple, one of Ipoh’s more famous caves. Known for its huge golden Buddha statue, colourful murals, and a climb to a viewpoint overlooking the surrounding countryside.
When we entered the temple we were blown away, it was spectacular. Not only by the golden Buddha and other statues but also the amount of murals decorating this enormous cavern, it was much more impressive than we had envisioned.
We made sure we explored every corner of the cave before eventually finding the steps at the rear that lead out and up to the viewpoint. There are around 400 steps, so it turned into a bit of a workout. Some sections were pretty steep too, which freaked Shane out a little. I kept saying, “Just look at your feet, don’t look around.” I don’t think I helped, but he managed it anyway.
Luckily, there were a series of pagodas along the way to rest. At the very top, we were rewarded with a panoramic view of Ipoh’s landscape, complete with limestone karsts and green plains. Even though the weather wasn’t great, it was worth it. On the way down, the rain started, and at one point it became heavy, so we took shelter under a pagoda until it eased — fortunately, we weren’t far from the cave entrance.
With the afternoon turning drizzly, we took a taxi back into town and headed to a mall. Good job we did, because by then it was absolutely chucking it down. We spent about an hour there before heading back to the hotel, but it was still raining, so we got soaked once more. The weather had been unsettled across Malaysia the past few weeks, though the following week was looking better — fingers crossed.
That evening, we met up with our new friends at the characterful bar. A couple of tables were already occupied, and we were welcomed once again by the old couple — and by a local guy who zeroed in on Shane, determined to ply him with whisky and insisted on photos with all of us. Shane barely survived the full assault. The guy left a short while later, much to Shane’s relief (in the nicest of ways) — he couldn’t stomach another drop. Ha! Mission “survive whisky”: accomplished.
We didn’t overstay our welcome; the elderly couple like to shut up shop earlier — who can blame them, working every day into their eighties.
We didn’t go far for a nightcap — literally just next door. The conversation flowed, and we had so much in common. I couldn’t even tell you what time it was when we left, but it was getting late. Thankfully, the rain had eased, so we strolled back toward the hotel, as we were only a few streets apart.
We were almost home when I, blummin’ well, tripped on an uneven step and went flying. Was it the beers, or chatting too much while not watching the pavement? I’ll never know. I went over on my ankle, got up, and managed to hobble to the hotel. It was sore, but not broken — definitely a sprain.
Unfortunately, the plans for the following day went out the window. We’d hoped to visit another cave, but I couldn’t walk far. The sensible thing was to rest it properly. It was our last day, but it couldn’t be helped.
We didn’t budge all day, even ordering food in, and continued binging TV box sets. A shame we didn’t see more of Ipoh, but at least we’d explored the town — it wasn’t the end of the world. We’d hoped to meet our friends for dinner, but even that felt like too much effort, so we sent a message to say our goodbyes and planned to keep in touch.
It ended up being a short trip, but we still enjoyed our time in Ipoh and would definitely recommend it, even if just for a few days like we did.
Tomorrow, we’ll return to the bus station and take a coach to Penang. We were thinking of visiting the Cameron Highlands, but after checking the forecast, it looks like it wouldn’t be the best time — just more rain and much cooler temperatures. I’m sure we’ll get there at some point.
So, Penang it is! This will be our second visit. We really enjoyed it last time and know there’s more to explore. Plus, Penang Hill is home to the Dusky leaf langur monkeys (which we absolutely love), so it will be amazing if we get to see them again — let’s just hope the ankle heals well. Fingers crossed!
Penang
Next stop: Penang Island. I booked a bus that goes to Butterworth, which is on the mainland side, and from there we can take a ferry across to George Town on Penang Island. It’s only a short ferry ride of 10–15 minutes, and they run every 20–30 minutes until quite late in the evening.
There’s a bridge over to Penang Island (actually two of them), so Shane said, “I wonder why you can’t just get a bus straight there?” Maybe you can, but when I looked, they all seemed to go to Butterworth.
Funnily enough, about 20 minutes before reaching Butterworth, the bus suddenly headed in the opposite direction towards the bridge. Blummin’ heck, this could be a good thing — and it was. We ended up travelling over the ‘Second Penang Bridge’ , an enormous link between the mainland and the island. It’s 24 km long in total, with about 16.9 km of it stretching over the water.
Then we realised what was happening: the bus actually comes onto the island first, makes a stop, and then continues back across the first bridge (the 13.5 km one) towards Butterworth. Perfect for us — as soon as it stopped on the island, we hopped off. I had a quick Google and saw we were only about 20 minutes from our hotel, so we just grabbed a taxi. No need to stay on all the way to Butterworth and take the ferry, although I’m sure that would’ve been lovely too.
We were staying in an hotel the opposite side of George Town from where we stayed last time. We like to mix it up, although the town Isn’t big so in relation to the main tourist sights you can’t go far wrong anywhere in George Town.
I like it when we go back somewhere familiar. You forget how lovely a place is until you see it again. The taxi ride was actually really nice — we kept pointing things out we recognised and remembering little bits from last time.
It was late afternoon by the time we’d settled into the hotel. We went for a short walk nearby — my ankle wasn’t ready for anything long just yet, but I was happy to hobble a little way.
We discovered a lovely street just behind the hotel, dotted with a few bars, restaurants, and a very posh-looking bakery in an old colonial building — I knew I’d have to take a peek in there at some point. We hadn’t eaten yet, so we stopped at one of the busy cafes (always a good sign) for dinner. The weather was still a bit unsettled, with rain definitely in the air. After dinner, we had a few drinks just next door and sure enough, the heavens opened. It poured down — but actually, sitting under the bar’s veranda while it chucked it down was rather cozy.
The rain cleared the air, and the following morning we awoke to bright skies and sunshine. We were looking forward to revisiting the quirky heritage streets of George Town, especially to see the art. George Town’s art scene is much more than just murals. Everywhere you look there’s something creative to catch your eye — colourful shophouses with intricate wooden carvings, decorative tiles, and quirky wrought-iron signs, many bearing humorous quotes depicting local life. Even the streets themselves feel alive with creativity, blending history and heritage in a way that makes wandering around feel like stepping through an open-air museum.
So far so good with the ankle, I just took my time and planned to stopped and rest as much as I could, we wasn’t in a rush.
George Town is also steeped in colonial history, and it’s impossible not to feel it as you wander the streets lined with grand old buildings. We made our way to the Town Hall, its white facade and elegant columns, a reminder of a bygone era. From there, we strolled towards Fort Cornwallis, only to find it closed for refurbishment — luckily we visited last year so it didn’t spoil the walk. The path led us past old city walls and quiet colonial streets, eventually arriving at the iconic clock tower. The Queen Victoria Memorial clock tower was commissioned to honour Queen Victoria — built for her Diamond Jubilee. Construction finished in 1902 — by then, Queen Victoria had already died (she passed away in 1901) so she never saw the completed tower.
From the clock tower we wandered down to Beach Street, taking in the mix of old colonial buildings and busy shops. Just off the main street, we found the famous “Children on a Bicycle” mural — joining the photo queue with the rest of the crowd. A little further on, a narrow lane was filled with colourful umbrellas hanging overhead, shading the cobbles below. Everywhere you looked there was something to catch your eye — bright shutters, quirky signs, and little art pieces tucked into corners. It felt like every turn had a new surprise, and strolling through the streets was just a joy. This place brings a smile to your face, that’s for sure.
The ankle was still holding up well, and with regular stops I was managing fine. We paused for lunch at a restaurant we’d enjoyed on our last visit — always nice to return to a familiar favourite. Fed and watered, we wandered through streets that felt less familiar this time, which was a nice change. Eventually we made our way back to the hotel. Definitely enough for one day, but all in all, we hadn’t done too badly.
We took it easy over the next few days and caught up on some writing. I didn’t want to overdo things because the one thing I really wanted my ankle to be ready for was Penang Hill.
We’d visited Penang Hill last year, and the views from the top were absolutely stunning. We took a taxi—about 30 minutes—to the funicular railway station at the base of the hill. You can actually hike up, which takes a few hours, but I wasn’t in any fit state for that. Plus, there’s plenty of walking once you’re at the top, so we decided to take the easy option: the funicular train.
The ride itself is thrilling. Being a funicular, it travels almost vertically and at quite a speed, which makes it surprisingly exciting — and a little scary. The late Queen Elizabeth even rode the train back in the early ’70s; there are photos of the event on display as you queue.
There are different things you can do and see at Penang Hill. The main draw for many is the sweeping views over George Town, the coastline, and the surrounding hills. Sunrise and sunset are said to be spectacular if you time it right.
You can visit ‘The Habitat’, a nature reserve with a canopy walk, boardwalk trails, and stunning rainforest scenery, although there is an admission fee.
For a more leisurely experience, you can enjoy a quintessential English afternoon tea at David Brown’s Restaurant & Tea Terraces, complete with traditional tea and scones served with a view.
There’s also a Hindu and Buddhist temple, as well as nature walks and trails—which is actually why we were here.
Last year, it was here that we first saw the dusky leaf monkey, and if you know us well, you’ll know how much we love our monkeys. So, we were primarily on “monkey-spotting duties,” a pastime we absolutely adore. Last year, we saw a group with a baby, and the unique thing about dusky leaf monkey infants is that they are bright orange. We didn’t have the best camera equipment back then, so a sighting today would be amazing—or even just seeing the monkeys at all. Wildlife sightings are never guaranteed; we know they live on the hill, but it covers quite a large area, so it’s all about being in the right place at the right time.
So we headed away from the crowds towards the trails. Along the way, we passed beautiful homes—Penang Hill is dotted with old colonial-era houses. Some are restored, some are abandoned, but all give a sense of the hill’s history as a British retreat.
We took one of the trails leading down the hillside, mentally retracing the pathway we’d explored last year. One of the best things about the rainforest here is that it can be enjoyed on well-maintained pathways. You get a chance to see wildlife, colourful birds, and incredible flora and fauna without having to trek over uneven ground like in so many other places. Well-kept paths and steps let you explore this lush jungle habitat with ease.
We hadn’t been walking long before we spotted a dusky leaf monkey—yay, woo hoo! It was perched on one of the power cables supplying a nearby house. We stood perfectly still so as not to startle it as it made its way above us. It actually stopped when it was directly overhead and gave us a sneaky look, checking us out.
We were so happy! We stayed quiet and scanned the area, then spotted more—a couple busy eating leaves off some bushes. Soon we heard the familiar rustle of branches above as a few more made their way across the canopy. Yes, there was a whole group! But were there any babies? We observed them for quite a while, and this group didn’t have any young with them. Still, it was amazing to watch them, and they didn’t seem to mind us being close. I suppose on the hill, they live in close proximity to humans, so they’re used to our presence.
The dusky leaf monkey is so unique — it almost looks like it’s wearing tiny round glasses, with big, curious eyes and a mischievous little face. They are just gorgeous — we love them!
We forced ourselves to move on, still on Mission Baby Monkey, and did pass by another group, although these were very high up in the canopy—definitely a place these timid monkeys prefer and still no babies.
Monkeys aside (for now) wandering these trails is a joy in itself. The hill is home to so many birds, and if you just pause for a moment and listen, it’s amazing—the different bird calls, the sounds of insects, sometimes so loud it’s hard to believe such tiny creatures can make such a racket. There are also countless species of butterflies, and no lie, some are as big as small birds. We tried desperately to take photos, which is nearly impossible, though Shane managed to capture one that I like.
We also spotted a giant squirrel, another resident of Penang Hill. These squirrels are around four times bigger than the ones back home, black with big brown bellies, and absolutely lovely. They’re also tricky to photograph, darting about high in the canopy.
Then there are the giant ants, almost the size of your thumb, and the giant spiders you’ll see in many bushes—but thankfully, they stay away from the pathways. Still, best to observe from a distance—ha!
We also love the variety of tropical plants — flowers that are so exotic and unusual, some you see in fancy florists back home, but growing naturally here. And there are so many different species of palms and ferns. It truly is a lush tropical paradise.
One unusual plant you can see here is the monkey cup plant—one of nature’s most intriguing creations. Its most striking feature is its ‘pitcher,’ a hollow, cup-shaped leaf that hangs from a tendril like a tiny, colourful vase. The rim of the cup is slippery and lined with nectar to lure unsuspecting insects — or even small creatures, in some cases. Once inside, it’s nearly impossible to escape — poor things, but that’s nature.
These plants can be found at the Monkey cup café (hence the name)which is the highest‑altitude café on Penang Island and the perfect place for us to take a break. It’s a quirky little café with a rustic‑forest charm: wooden furniture amongst the jungle. We spotted another giant squirrel but he darted away before we could photograph.
Rehydrated we headed back, it’s a fair walk back to the funicular. We could have chosen to walk back on the top road but fear of missing out on more monkey sightings led us back on the trails.
Unfortunately, we didn’t see any new groups of monkeys on the way back. We did, however, pass the group from earlier, which was still a treat. We knew the chances of seeing a baby were really slim — never mind, you can’t win them all, and at least we’d seen the adults.
It was really busy back near the funicular station — lots of people head up here for sunset, which I imagine is amazing. Little stalls had set up selling food and souvenirs, so people make a night of it. There were even a few cheeky macaque monkeys hanging about (typical when there’s food around). It was so busy that we even had to get a ticket and wait our turn for the train back down. It didn’t matter too much — we were happy to wait.
We’d had a really good day again — our favourite days always seem to be when we see wildlife — so Penang Hill most certainly didn’t disappoint.
We only had a few more days left in George Town, and we were happy to spend them wandering through its different areas. George Town is known as a truly multicultural city. You can stroll through Little India, where colourful storefronts, sari shops, Bollywood music, and the scent of spices and incense fill the air. Just a short walk away, the Chinese districts feature ornate temples, traditional shophouses, and bustling markets. Malay heritage is equally present, with mosques, local eateries, and quiet neighbourhoods that reflect the area’s long history. Together, these communities create a vibrant blend of cultures.
As you wander the streets, brightly coloured bike rickshaws — or ‘trishaws,’ as they’re known — pass by, giving tourists a leisurely ride around the heritage streets. Some drivers even dress up or play music to enhance the experience. It all adds to the charm of the place.
George Town is also a food lover’s dream. Street stalls, markets, and small eateries serve up a mouth-watering mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian dishes. Many hawker stalls and eateries have even earned Michelin recognition, proving that incredible food doesn’t have to come with a fancy price tag. Indian food will always be our favourite, so I made a long list of the best-rated Indian restaurants in George Town, and over the week we tried to get to many of them. They didn’t disappoint — some better than others — and by the end of the week we were all spiced out. Just need a sandwich now — ha!
George Town may be famous for its food and heritage, but it also has a vibrant nightlife. The city offers a mix of chilled bars, rooftop lounges, and lively pubs where you can enjoy everything from a craft cocktail to a local beer. Streets like Love Lane buzz after dark, with cosy hangouts tucked into historic shophouses and hidden lanes. Love Lane was also getting into the Christmas spirit, with a giant inflatable Christmas tree and Santa Claus.
Our time was nearing the end so on our last day we headed over to the clan Jetties. The Clan Jetties are a fascinating part of George Town’s heritage — a network of waterfront settlements built on stilts along the coast. Each jetty was historically home to a different Chinese clan, giving the area its name. You can still see wooden houses lining the water, connected by narrow walkways, with locals going about their daily lives. The most famous include Chew Jetty, Tan Jetty, Yeoh Jetty, Lee Jetty, and a few others, but Chew Jetty is the most popular with tourists.
Walking along its narrow wooden walkways feels like stepping back in time, with traditional houses, and glimpses of daily life among the residents. Rows of small shops and stalls selling souvenirs and local crafts add a lively touch.
From Chew Jetty, the view across the water towards the other jetties stretches along the shoreline, wooden houses with laundry fluttering in the breeze, and small boats moored nearby.
We visited a couple more of the jetties, much quieter, which was a bonus — we could wander freely and take photos without the crowds. On one, we even spotted a sign saying ‘no tourists after 9pm,’ and you can hardly blame them. It’s a gentle reminder that these jetties are still living communities, home to families who have called them home for generations.
We’d really enjoyed our time back in George Town. Revisiting a place often lets you see it in a new light, and this time we wandered into areas we hadn’t explored before, discovered new street art, and uncovered corners we’d missed last time. Not being in a rush to see everything made all the difference — a more laid-back pace allowed us to soak in the city and appreciate its character. Life isn’t meant to be rushed, just enjoyed, and that’s exactly what we did here.
Next, we’re heading to more familiar territory — the island of Langkawi. This will actually be our third visit, and it only became part of our plan as we move on to India. Flights from Langkawi were much more convenient than returning to Kuala Lumpur, so it just made sense. Besides, Langkawi is a stunningly beautiful island, so we’re more than happy to return.
Langkawi
The flight from Penang to Langkawi has got to be one of the quickest. Up, then the cabin crew do a quick dash down the aircraft with drinks, a quick dash back to collect the rubbish, and then it’s time to buckle up — all in around 30 minutes. My kind of flight — ha!
It felt good to be back. I don’t know what it is — it’s just a really lovely island: scenic, great beaches, and wonderful people. Driving in the taxi to the hotel, I actually felt quite giddy. It’s only a short drive to Pantai Cenang, which is where we always stay. The sun was just setting, so we didn’t plan on messing about. A quick freshen-up and out out — ha! Hoping to catch the last of the sunset.
And that’s exactly what we did — just catching that moment when the sun sets, then enjoying the aftermath, as we call it, when the sky is amazing. The sunsets are incredible here. We’ve seen a lot of fabulous sunsets on our travels, but Langkawi — and probably Bali — always spring to mind as belters!
Yes it was good to be back!
l was still trying to take it easy and not overdo the walking because of my ankle sprain, so the following morning we decided to go for a short walk. We spotted a few festive decorations as we set off, which never quite seems right — Christmas decs and palm trees; I’ll never get my head around that one.
We stopped for lunch and stocked up on some chocolate. I’m not even a chocoholic, but Langkawi has loads of duty-free shops selling all the chocolate we know from home, and it’s so cheap. My fave is Toblerone, so we bought a big bar… although with Shane around, I doubt it’ll last long.
We were lucky enough to have a nice rooftop pool, so we spent the afternoon lazing around in there and were even luckier to have it all to ourselves.
That evening we returned to another one of our old haunts, a fantastic rooftop bar that’s ideal for watching the sunset, before finishing the night with a delicious Indian meal. Perfect — we’re still very much in curry heaven and happen to know a good few great restaurants here.
As we’ve been here twice before, I’m not going to bore you with all our goings-on, but one thing I will say is just how beautiful the beach is here. We’d forgotten how white the sand is – powder white. The beach is a hive of activity, with guys selling water sports; by far the most popular are the jet skis, but they also offer parasailing and banana boats. The Malaysian people seem to love it all.
We also noticed that this time around it was by far the busiest we’d ever seen it, which really added to the good vibes. So even though we’ve taken these beach pictures before, you just can’t help yourself as you walk along the beach path. It’s such a tropical paradise – and who doesn’t love palm trees and white sand? I bet there aren’t many. It’s like postcard heaven!
Another thing we love about Langkawi is that each time we visit we always seem to meet people, whether they’re on holiday or living here, as it does attract a fair few expats — for good reason. Being predominantly Muslim, it’s not overrun with bars, but there are enough. What you tend to find is that those who enjoy a tipple in the evening move around the same bars, so you start to see familiar faces.
The first time we came, we met a couple from Jersey who stay here for months on end. We didn’t see them on our second visit, but lo and behold, who do we bump into one night but these two. And you know when you just get a premonition — I knew we were going to see them that night, and even in the bar I’d envisioned. Weird… must be my sixth sense. Anyway, we were chuffed to bits and had a great night catching up.
One day we walked to the next bay along, Tengah Beach. There’s a lovely restaurant located right at the start of the beach. We’d not even been walking long when I suggested we stop for a drink or a coffee, as it’s such a nice place to sit. Luckily, it had only just opened and, being popular, it didn’t take long before it started to fill up. They were playing some really chilled-out music as well — I could have sat there all day, but we had a beach to walk.
We finally prized ourselves away and set off down the beach. Wherever you walk along this coast, it’s so lovely. There are so many islands just off Langkawi; in fact, Langkawi is an archipelago made up of 99 islands in the Andaman Sea, so you’re constantly surrounded by islands.
As we walked along the beach, a cruise liner was docked offshore — a reminder of just how popular the island is as a stop.
Halfway along Tengah Beach is another quirky spot we came across last year. It’s a beachside resort-restaurant where you can also hire sunbeds for the day. There are lovely seating areas dotted around, a pop-up van selling coffee, and these cute little caravans. With all the colour, it almost feels like you’re somewhere in the Caribbean.
We didn’t continue much further after that — it was enough for my ankle for one day. I think this injury is just going to take time.
We’ve never taken a boat trip on Langkawi, so that was something we definitely wanted to do this time. After reading up, I found one that sounded perfect — just a half-day trip taking you to a couple of the islands, with some eagle spotting thrown in.
If you know from previous posts how many times Shane has tried to get a decent picture of an eagle — especially on our visits here — you’ll know it’s become an ongoing joke. Every time we spot one I’ll say, “Shane, get the big lens on,” and by the time he’s done that, the bird has gone. Every single time.
The name Langkawi is believed to come from the Malay words helang(eagle) and kawi (reddish-brown), referring to the Brahminy eagles that are often seen around the island.
So by booking this trip, with the big lens at the ready, we might finally be able to get a decent photo — we’re starting to sound like a proper pair of bird spotters in our old age… ha!
So a couple of days later, we booked the trip. The first stop was Pulau Dayang Bunting, which translates to “Island of the Pregnant Maiden.”
It’s named after the outline of the hills, which are said to resemble a pregnant woman lying on her back, and it’s famous for the freshwater Lake of the Pregnant Maiden in the centre of the island.
The boat trip to the island was an adventure in itself. That boat could really shift, and there was no slowing the driver down over the choppy sea. We came crashing down quite heavily on a few occasions and were holding on for dear life — it was certainly exhilarating.
We had one hour to explore the island. There was an additional small fee at a kiosk and from there we followed the path to the lake. It was only a short walk up and down the steps (of course there were steps — they knew me and Shane were coming, ha!), and once at the lake there is a designated area for swimming, or you can hire a kayak.
We chose to walk the pathway that leads around and up to a viewpoint, where you can see the lake on one side and the sea on the other. The lake is unusual because it’s a freshwater lake despite being surrounded by the sea. Local legend says that women who swim in the lake are believed to be blessed with fertility.
Walking around the lake on the wooden boardwalk towards the viewpoint felt surprisingly European. Surrounded by calm water and lush greenery, it was easy to forget we were on a tropical island in Southeast Asia — for a moment it felt more like a scenic walk around a mountain lake in Europe than Langkawi.
It wasn’t a circular walk, so we had to come back on ourselves and head back up the steps. Luckily, at the top we were treated to a group of macaque monkeys. We kept our distance to observe them, as these are the cheeky ones, but as you know, we still love seeing them.
We made our way back to the boat and off we went again — bang, bang, bang — white knuckle, ha!
The boat stopped first alongside one of the many limestone islands so we could watch some of the sea birds. From here, he pointed out an island that looked like a crocodile hovering on the water, and as we looked back towards Pulau Dayang Bunting, we could clearly see the shape of the pregnant lady.
We then headed to an area where we hoped to see the eagles, giving Shane the chance to get the big lens at the ready. As we rounded one of the islands, a group of eagles was already circling above, and soon more appeared.
What we didn’t realise at first was that the boatmen feed the eagles, something we don’t really agree with, as it alters their natural behaviour and encourages dependence on handouts rather than hunting. In a place like Langkawi, where eagles are so abundant, seeing them naturally and at a distance would have been just as special — and very much our preference.
That said, we were already there, so even if it felt a little hypocritical, we took a few photos. It wasn’t easy, as they move incredibly fast, and we really didn’t realise there would be so many coming in from left, right and centre. Shane didn’t know where to focus to get the best shots.
It’s a shame really, because the island-hopping tour alone is more than enough, and eagles can often be seen soaring naturally anyway, even from the beaches.
The second island we stopped at was much more relaxed. This was the stop where you could swim in the sea, go parasailing, or simply wander along the beach and enjoy the surroundings. We opted for the slower pace, taking a walk along the sand and then just sitting for a while, soaking it all in.
Overall, it was great to finally get out on the water and visit a few of the islands that make up the Langkawi archipelago. Seeing them up close really does show just how beautiful and varied the area is. The trip would have been even better without the eagle feeding, as watching them behave naturally would have felt far more special, but aside from that it was a really enjoyable way to spend a few hours and a lovely introduction to the islands beyond the main beaches.
We both said that even though we’ve enjoyed Langkawi each time we’ve visited, it was growing on us even more this trip. Overall, it was busier and the weather was perfect — hot but not humid. So we were having a great time; we met up with our friends on several occasions and also made new ones. We were here for a couple of weeks and at first we thought that might be too long, but it really wasn’t. There were still lots of things to see and do, which we probably wouldn’t even get the chance to fit in.
We did, however, want to revisit the Langkawi Sky Bridge, as the last time we went the weather changed and it became foggy and cloudy, which made it feel more eerie. This time the forecast was perfect, so we decided to head up there one day.
But I’m not going to lie, I was freaking out a little bit at the thought of that cable car. The Langkawi SkyCab, as it’s known, is one of the steepest cable cars in the world — not the longest or the highest, but blummin’ steep. I wouldn’t have minded so much, but it’s Shane who doesn’t like heights, and he’s the one who suggested it. Face your fear, I told myself, so we booked tickets. They even have glass-bottomed ones — no way, José, would I be stepping into one of those.
At the base of the Langkawi SkyCab you’ll find Oriental Village, a colourful, open-air complex that feels a bit like a themed market, with shops and restaurants. There are also several attractions, a couple of which are included with the cable car ticket. Paved walkways lead to landscaped gardens and small water features. Last year we’d spotted an enormous monitor lizard, literally around five feet long, so before we headed to the cable car I said, let’s have a quick look and see if we can spot it — you never know, this might be its home. It wasn’t long before we spotted one, but only a fraction of the size. Never mind — we’d have another look on the way back.
We shared a cable car with a Malaysian family and their baby, and all the oohing and aahing over the baby definitely helped take our minds off the incline. Once we got going, it actually felt quite calm and peaceful, gliding over the vast forest below — and honestly, it wasn’t that bad at all, much better than I remembered. It’s really just the last section that’s crazy, where it feels almost vertical. Anyway… we did it. Well, to Station One at least.
The views from here are incredible, sweeping across the rainforest and taking in almost the whole island, with the surrounding islands visible in the distance (even a couple of Thai islands). The mountain range around us is pretty epic too. We headed first towards the Eagle’s Nest, a large viewing platform that juts right out over the mountain. Now don’t go thinking we were actually going on it — no chance. But we did want to photograph it. For you thrill-seekers out there, it has a glass walkway, which gives me palpitations just thinking about it… although I’m sure it’s very well engineered.
Happy with the photos we took, we headed back to the cable car to continue across the mountain to the SkyBridge. This section doesn’t scare me as much, as although it’s still high, it doesn’t climb too steeply. When you exit for the SkyBridge, you have two options: take the small funicular train, which travels partly back downhill to the bridge, or take the steps and follow the nature walk. We don’t mind a walk, so we chose that.
When we arrived at the bridge, I got the fear factor — I don’t know what’s going on with me in my old age. I got as far as the beginning of the bridge and couldn’t step any further. It’s a good job I crossed it last year, so I’d already ticked that box. But why it gave me the eebie-jeebies this time, I don’t know. Last time it was misty, so visibility wasn’t great, and that must have given me the confidence. This time, though, we had perfect weather great for photos but we couldn’t bring ourselves to cross it — so we couldn’t take many because the pair of us wouldn’t step onto it… ha!
So there wasn’t much point hanging around, so we made our way back to the cable car station. Before re-joining the queue, there was a series of platforms you could climb and a restaurant at the highest point. From up here the views were amazing — you had a full 360-degree panorama and were even looking down on the SkyBridge.
We then returned to the cable car and were able to take the cab all the way down. I wasn’t exactly looking forward to that steep section, but honestly, it wasn’t too bad. I faced the mountain the whole way so I couldn’t see how high we actually were — much less scary that way! Of course, I made Shane (who is officially terrified of heights) take the “good” seat.
The views on the way down are amazing. A gorgeous waterfall appears on one side, and if you dare to look up, there’s the Eagle’s Nest jutting dramatically over the mountain — yes, that platform we will never, ever walk on… ha!
Back at the Oriental Village, we’d never been so relieved to be back on lower ground. Now we could relax, explore and check out the attractions included in the ticket. We had a giggle in the SkyDome, a 360-degree immersive theatre designed to surround you with HD visuals inside a large dome. We happened to be in with a group of schoolchildren on a day trip. They loved it—screaming and clapping—but they gave us a laugh, that’s for sure. We also visited the 3D museum, which was really clever.
We’d had a brilliant day, and throughout it we had talked about the dusty leaf monkey, as around the Oriental Village there were posters showing them. I’d said to Shane, “Imagine how complete our day would be if we got to see a dusty leaf.” But we just assumed they’d be deep in the forest, probably the one we’d travelled across in the cable car.
So can you imagine how shocked we were only a few minutes later to see a couple just outside one of the restaurants—of all places! We couldn’t believe it. Someone was feeding them, which they shouldn’t do. So, of course, we started clicking away. And then, all of a sudden, from behind us came another one. It jumped up onto the wall right in front of us and in its arms an orange baby—OMG!!
How long had we been searching for a baby? We’d hiked through jungles and had been lucky enough to see adults, but never a baby — not since last year anyway, and even then it wasn’t close up. And then here it was, right amongst the crowds, the mother not even timid, obviously very used to humans. We could not believe our luck. What were the chances?
We’d already had an amazing day, but this was the icing on the cake.
After that, it just got better and better—we had never seen so many. They must come out of the forest in the late afternoon, aware that they can get food. There were two separate groups; we noticed this when one member of a group was quickly chased off for getting too close to the other. We must have spent well over an hour observing them.
We sat on a bench for a minute, and that’s when I also spotted two hornbills flying over. You should have seen Shane—this time ready with the big lens—running over to the trees they’d flown into. I joined him, it was so funny, like a proper pair of wildlife enthusiasts; we were truly in our element.
We even saw macaque monkeys, but sorry to say, we weren’t interested in them today. The Dusty Leaf baby was the highlight, though—they only stay orange for a few months, and by about six months their fur steadily turns grey/brown like the adults.
Wow, what a day! Definitely up there as one of the best—although this list is growing.
We only had a few days left, so we didn’t venture too much — just beach walks, meeting up a couple more times with our friends, and feeling genuinely sad that our time in Langkawi was coming to an end. After our last visit we didn’t think we’d ever come back, but after this visit we don’t think it will be the last time. Funny how things switch.
Although equally excited for our next adventure as we travel to India. First stop, Goa, where we’ve been many times before but not for over a decade. Times will have changed, so that will be interesting to see. Christmas should be good, as there’s a strong Christian community there, so hopefully we’ll see decorations and festive celebrations. Some chilled beach time awaits, then in the New Year we hope to explore India far and wide.
