Kunming
Mainland China was somewhere we’d always wanted to visit on our travels, but it had always been a little harder to plan due to visa requirements. Luckily, the regulations had recently changed, meaning we were allowed 30 days visa-free. This was music to our ears. Geographically, it also fit perfectly with our route and timing, as we were heading into spring with pleasant temperatures—so it really couldn’t have worked out better.
Thirty days isn’t long for such a vast country with so much diversity. A few of the big cities were on our list—Xi’an was a definite for the Terracotta Army, and Beijing for the Great Wall—but beyond that, we weren’t sure where else to go.
I compared flights from Nepal into different cities, and in the end, the best option was to fly into Kunming. It was the shortest flight from Kathmandu, making it a great entry point, and after reading about what Kunming had to offer, it was a sealed deal. Known as the “City of Eternal Spring,” it enjoys pleasant temperatures year-round, with plenty to see and do.
The flight was great—just two and a half hours—but with the 2 hour 15 minute time difference, it was already evening when we arrived.
We had to be a little more prepared for China than for other countries we’d visited in Asia. Thankfully, there’s plenty of advice available on which apps to download beforehand to make the trip more seamless.
It’s almost a cashless society, so we needed to set up a couple of payment apps, along with maps that work well in China, as Google Maps doesn’t function properly there. We also downloaded taxi and translation apps, as English isn’t widely spoken.
We got to grips with the taxi app to get from the airport to the hotel. Thankfully, I figured it out, and soon enough we were on our way. It was almost midnight when we checked in, so we went straight to bed, looking forward to exploring in the morning.
We’d chosen to stay near Green Lake Park, as it was said to be a good, walkable location close to several sights. Since we were only in Kunming for a couple of days, it made sense to stay central.
The park was only a five-minute walk from the hotel, so the following morning we headed there first. It was already quite busy—a clearly popular spot, and for good reason. The park, with its lake and gardens, was beautiful: perfectly landscaped, with flowers and colour everywhere, helped by Kunming’s “eternal spring” climate that allows blooms all year round.
People were doing tai chi, walking their dogs, and—most notably—taking photos. Big photoshoots are clearly a thing here; people love to dress up and have professional pictures taken.
We spent a few hours wandering around the park and along the lake, stopping to sample street food from the kiosks dotted throughout.
Just a short walk from Green Lake, Yuantong Temple offered a complete change of pace.
Yuantong Temple is Kunming’s oldest and most important Buddhist temple, with a history of over 1,200 years dating back to the Tang Dynasty.
It was busy with visitors and worshippers; we later realised it was a public holiday, which explained the crowds even on a weekday.
The temple itself was beautiful, with red pillars, intricate woodwork, and a peaceful pond at its centre crossed by narrow stone bridges. The pond was filled with colourful fish and terrapins—we hadn’t seen them for a while.
People were praying and offering incense. It was nice to just pause and take it all in for a moment.
We were definitely going to get our steps in today, as next we headed to Kunming Old Town. What I can say, though, is that it was a pleasure to walk there—wide pavements, which we haven’t had the luxury of for months. We’ve been in places with narrow, dusty streets, constantly watching our backs for traffic. Here it was the complete opposite. Scooters travelled in bike lanes, and it felt refreshing to have that level of organisation again—separate lanes for cars, scooters, and pedestrians, and everything spotlessly clean. The only thing to watch out for was crossing the road and being aware of electric vehicles; they’re silent, so you don’t hear them coming. For the past three or four months, all we’ve heard is car horns.
Kunming Old Town is nestled right in the middle of a modern shopping district. One moment we were surrounded by glass storefronts and bright lights, and the next we’d stepped into narrow streets lined with traditional buildings. Most of them house quirky shops and restaurants. It was extremely busy due to the public holiday, but still really enjoyable—I love the contrast of old and new together.
They are also very big on planting here—every avenue is lined with trees and colourful flower beds. It’s extremely tasteful and almost feels like a theme park, but in a good way, as so much care has been taken with it. It’s also a very cute place, with the teddy-bear-style culture we’ve seen in other cities. It pleases me though—I’d rather see that than dust and grime.
It’s also very modern here. Electric scooters for hire are parked along the roadside; unlike the city centre ones back home, these are more like small motorbikes. There must be hundreds, even thousands, dotted around the city—just scan and ride.
With everyone constantly on their phones, another popular feature here is portable battery hire. Boxes are scattered all over the city, and if you need a charge, you just scan, take one, and return it to any location.
I’m sure as we travel around, we’ll see even more high-tech innovations. I’m embracing it—you never know, we might even have a robot serving us dinner.
We’d crammed in so many different sides of Kunming and enjoyed every bit of it. By the evening, we were too tired to head back out, so we happily stayed at the hotel, making the most of its restaurant and relaxed outdoor area.
Close to Kunming, in Shilin, is the Stone Forest—a very popular day trip from the city. The following morning, we set off early to get there. It’s about an hour and a half’s drive away.
You can book excursions, but I’d read it was just as easy to take the tourist bus. We first took a taxi to the main bus station—fares are cheap. The tourist buses leave every half hour or when full. Luckily, we were the last two on, so we didn’t have to wait around. The bus only cost a couple of pounds and dropped us right at the Stone Forest.
The Stone Forest (Shilin) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Global Geopark, renowned for its spectacular 270-million-year-old karst limestone formations. These jagged, towering pillars resemble a forest of stone.
It’s one of the most remarkable landscapes of its kind in the world.
We paid the entrance fee, which included the shuttle bus into the main tourist area.
The park itself is huge and split into different sections, including the major and minor stone forests, which you can move between using the shuttle.
There are sections with water and small ponds dotted between the rock formations, which add to the atmosphere. The good news is there’s plenty of seating everywhere—carved from stone, of course—so you can stop and catch your breath between climbs and steps.
We spent a few hours in the maze of pathways. There was no way we’d see it all, so we used the shuttle a few times just to make sure we didn’t miss any of the main viewpoints.
It was definitely worth the visit, especially as there are very few landscapes like this in the world, and getting there and back by tourist bus was both cheap and easy.
It was only a short visit here, but we really enjoyed everything we’d seen so far—a perfect introduction to China. Tomorrow we move on to Dali, taking the high-speed rail, which is just 2.5 hours and should be a smooth, easy journey as we head deeper into Yunnan, towards its old-town charm and lakeside scenery.
Dali
Dali wasn’t originally on our itinerary, but once I started reading up on Yunnan province, the name kept popping up. It quickly became clear that it’s a popular stop on the tourist trail. Since it also happened to be on the way to Lijiang—somewhere we were definitely planning to visit—we figured, why not break up the journey and see what Dali had to offer.
Dali sits between the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake, with an ancient town at its centre. It sounded like it had a relaxed vibe and was incredibly scenic, which made it an easy addition to our itinerary once we realised how well it fit into the route towards Lijiang.
We were very much looking forward to the high-speed rail journey to get there. If they were anything like the ones we’d travelled on before, we were in for a comfortable ride. They are very affordable and the network covers most of China.
The railway stations here are more like airports. We arrived one hour before departure, which is advised. Like airports, you go through security, luggage gets scanned, and passports are checked. After that, you find your boarding gate and wait there until they announce boarding, and only then are you allowed to enter the platform — and even then, only after your passports are scanned again. It’s actually very well organised, no chaos.
The train was on time (we didn’t expect it not to be), and we quickly found our allocated seats. Travelling in 2nd class, no need for anything else if you ask me. It’s spacious and spotlessly clean. We’d only just set off when one of the staff members came through the carriage mopping the floor throughout (you wouldn’t see that on British Rail).
The journey was great, taking just under two and a half hours. It was smooth, and the time flew by between snoozing and enjoying the scenery. From what we’ve encountered so far, the Chinese people are lovely. A family sat adjacent to us and kindly offered us hard-boiled eggs. He insisted, so we accepted as we didn’t want to offend (and he did have a big bag of them) — he must have boiled a job lot that morning, ha!
We took a taxi from the station to our hotel, which was just a few minutes outside the ancient city. We were getting used to taxis now; they work just the same way as uber, so it’s pretty straightforward.
Throughout the taxi ride, we got glimpses of Erhai Lake on one side, which is huge, stretching roughly 42 km long and up to 8–9 km wide. On the other side, you have the snow-dusted mountains towering above — it was already looking pretty spectacular.
Just as we arrived, it started to rain, and we hadn’t seen rain in a long time. Thankfully, it was only a shower. It was a little cooler as well because of its position between the lake and mountains — good thing we had our new coats from Nepal!
By the time we’d settled in, it was late afternoon, and we were happy to let the weather dry up while we put a wash on. Great news that our hotel had a washer we could use—oh, the little things that bring so much joy.
So our first venture into the ancient city was at night. A couple of minutes’ stroll brought us to a busy street lined with food carts, shops, and restaurants. It was bustling with people; we liked the vibe immediately.
We weren’t really sure which direction to walk, but we figured it didn’t matter—exploring and getting lost always seemed to lead us to the best places. It looked like we chose well, as we soon arrived at one of the city gates.
Dali Old Town is a traditionally walled city with four gated entrances—north, south, east, and west—and we later discovered this was the east gate. It was very impressive, with curved rooflines that felt almost temple-like. A large arched tunnel led us into the old town, where cobbled streets created an immediate sense of atmosphere.
More food stalls lined the streets, the smell of grilled meats making us realise we were hungry. We devoured a snack of deep-fried bread filled with beef—delicious!
As we wandered into the heart of the old town, we were happy to see it was pedestrianised—no risk of being knocked down by the silent electric scooters.
It was so charming, with countless lights and streets filled with lovely shops and plenty of restaurants. Little alleyways branched off from the main cobbled streets, softly lit by lanterns. Everywhere you walked was beautiful.
Like we’d seen in Kunming, dressing up in traditional clothing was very much a thing. With so many beautiful backdrops throughout the city, you can see why they love it.
We explored for a few hours, sampling more delicious street food before calling it a night, already looking forward to exploring more the following day.
The weather had improved overnight, so we woke to bright skies and sunshine. We couldn’t wait to get out and see the town by day.
We retraced our footsteps from the previous night through to the east gate. People were already dressed up, having photoshoots along the quaint cobbled streets. As we wandered, we also found ourselves being fed, as lots of stores were offering samples of dried fruits, coffee, and nougat. We could cope with this.
As the morning progressed, the town became busier with busloads of tourists on day trips. We headed over towards the South Gate, as it’s considered one of the most spectacular entrances to the ancient town. From here, you can climb to the top for sweeping views over the rooftops of the old town, with the Cangshan Mountains rising dramatically in the background.
In front of the gate entrance was a square that appeared to have gathered a crowd. Something was going on, so we headed there next. It was a group of local ladies dancing—we had timed it just right. We weren’t sure what the occasion was, but we enjoyed watching nonetheless.
As we wandered aimlessly around the town, we stumbled across a local food market. We’d never seen so many unusual fruits and vegetables. But the big thing here—not just in Dali, but across Yunnan province—is mushrooms. It’s often called China’s “kingdom of wild mushrooms” because of its biodiversity and mountain climate, which is perfect for fungi.
We ended up sampling all types of mushrooms—pickled ones, fiery ones with chilli—and then we came across a stall selling deep-fried breaded mushrooms. Yes, we were definitely going to give these a go. The lady fried up four different types of mushrooms, but it was the seasoning she sprinkled over afterwards that was the winner.
We felt like we’d covered most of the old town, so our next stop was the iconic Three Pagodas of Chongsheng Temple—probably the most photographed landmark in the whole area. It sits just outside the old town, but is still walkable, backed by the dramatic Cangshan Mountains and facing out toward Erhai Lake. The setting is half the magic.
We paid the entrance fee and entered the grounds. What took us by surprise was the sheer scale of the site. We had thought it was just the three pagodas, but it was so much more than that. Alongside them was a large temple complex that climbed up the mountainside.
We headed to the pagodas first, as they sit at the forefront of the complex.
The main central tower is the tallest and dates back over 1,000 years. It is flanked by two smaller pagodas, built slightly later but in a similar style.
What makes them so interesting is how clean and symmetrical they look. They’ve also survived multiple earthquakes over the centuries, which adds to their reputation as both beautiful and remarkably resilient.
After admiring the pagodas, we headed up the steps to the first temple. Incense filled the air as worshippers gathered, and the halls were beautifully carved, filled with colourful statues.
As you climb the mountainside, each new temple reveals itself, all slightly different inside—some with imposing guardian figures, others with enormous Buddha statues at their centre. In many of them, you could climb up to upper terraces for sweeping views across the lake.
The temples seemed to go on endlessly. Just when you thought you’d reached the last one, more steps behind would lead you to another. Because they’re perfectly aligned, you don’t immediately see what’s coming next.
We were determined to make it to the final temple. Luckily (or maybe not), the last one we reached had locked gates, stopping us from going any further—even though there was clearly more beyond. Honestly, we were quite happy about that.
Walking back was at least all downhill, and we even ended up walking all the way to the hotel. We’d seriously got some steps in—some serious mileage—and the day wasn’t even over. We’d clock a few more just heading out for dinner. We’d definitely sleep well, that’s for sure.
The following day, we headed to the lake. We’d read there were pathways, great for walking or cycling, so we took a taxi—no need to match yesterday’s step count.
The lakeside was lovely. The paths weren’t one continuous promenade, but in many stretches there were wide, well-kept walkways hugging the shoreline.
Lots of locals were hiring bicycles or scooters—scooters seeming to be the more popular choice—but we were happy to stroll. It was fairly busy, clearly a well-loved spot, with dog walkers, people out exercising, and groups just enjoying the fresh air. Along the way, there were clusters of small guesthouses and cafés—perfect spots to take it all in.
It was really pleasant, and of course there were the photoshoots—this time with a lakeside backdrop. We even passed an art group painting the scene in front of them, capturing the calm of the place perfectly.
You could have just kept walking—the lake is that enormous. There are most probably sections like this all the way around.
We’d already walked quite far, and the plan was that once we got tired, we’d just take a taxi back. However, it was such a pleasant day, and the temperature was perfect, so we ended up walking all the way back into town.
It had been a while since we’d done some serious steps, but the conditions were ideal—good pavements and an easy route—so we were more than happy to take advantage of it.
Dali has only been a short stop, but we’re so glad we decided to add it to our itinerary. We’ve been really impressed with the old town, the lake, and the surrounding scenery.
It felt like one of those places that’s easy to underestimate on a map, but hard to forget once you’ve been.
Our trip through China just keeps getting better and better. And tomorrow, we imagine, will be no exception as we take the train north to the mountain town of Lijiang.
It’s just a short journey this time—under two hours—but let’s see if Lijiang is as beautiful as it sounds.
Lijiang
Lijiang was a town we were very much looking forward to visiting. Ever since we’d booked the flight into Kunming and started researching the best places to visit, this one was up there as a must. It’s a renowned UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its 800-year-old Old Town, Naxi ethnic culture, and the scenic Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The town sits at around 2,400 metres above sea level. As we’ve been travelling, we’ve been steadily climbing in altitude. We haven’t really felt it yet, to be honest—most likely because we came from Nepal, where we’d already started acclimatising to higher elevations.
We were on an early train. We don’t usually do early mornings by choice, but we didn’t mind on this occasion—we were really looking forward to seeing this place.
The train journey was great, and knowing the procedure at the station helped make it much more relaxed. It was then a short taxi ride to the old town where we were staying. I’d booked a hotel just within the old town, which is pedestrianised, so thankfully from where the taxi dropped us on the main road, it was only a few minutes’ walk. We didn’t have to carry heavy bags along the narrow cobbled lanes for very far.
We still had a series of steps to carry our bags down, but we managed—just about.
The temperature was going to be much cooler here. It was forecast to be pleasantly sunny during the day, but we expected it to be much colder at night. So when booking accommodation, most places advertised heating or electric blankets—sounded cosy, and something we hadn’t needed in a long time.
Although we’d arrived early at our hotel, the room was ready, which is always a bonus. We were welcomed by a lovely family and a super cute dog. The accommodation was beautiful—only a small place, but very tasteful, with a small courtyard garden that the rooms looked onto.
We didn’t hang about, eager to explore. Of what we’d seen from the short walk to the hotel, we knew the town would be stunning.
Only a few steps from our hotel was a lane decorated with Chinese umbrellas, the next with lanterns, and then we found a street where you could write a message on a wooden love heart and hang it along the wall and trees.
We couldn’t resist doing one—they’re a bit like the padlocks you see in many places around the world. You scan to pay a small charge for the love heart, write your message, and hang it up—really cute!
This is a town you’d happily get lost in—a maze of cobbled streets and wooden buildings threaded with canals. Narrow alleys bend and bridges appear suddenly, leading to little squares. Water runs everywhere, channelled through stone-lined streams, the water crystal clear.
It’s built for wandering. You’ll turn a corner expecting a dead end and instead find a tiny courtyard with hanging lanterns, or a tea house tucked away behind wooden doors.
Enhancing its beauty even more was the amount of flowers—stunning arrangements and planting, with cherry blossoms just starting to bloom. We were probably here at one of the most beautiful times of year, and it wasn’t even planned. How lucky were we?
Another thing we noticed was the number of beautiful dogs. It’s obvious they love their dogs here—big shepherd-type dogs with fluffy coats adapted to the climate.
Dressing up here was off the scale, as you can imagine. Almost every other shop was a costume hire place, often doubling up for hair and makeup as well. We’ve seen this a lot now, but this place—wow—it’s big business. Every street corner had a photoshoot taking place, especially with the cherry blossom just beginning to bloom.
This place is by far the prettiest we’ve seen so far. I’d read that it’s one of the most scenic old towns in China and it’s easy to see why. It was impressing us, that’s for sure. It’s surrounded by mountains, with the dramatic backdrop of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (also known as Yulong Snow Mountain) rising in the distance.
We spent the whole day wandering the historic streets, loving every minute. Even more intrigued to see what it would be like as night fell, we felt like we might be in for a treat.
We weren’t disappointed when we headed back out. We first walked to a viewpoint just a couple of minutes from the hotel. From here, you could see the town spread out below, and almost every rooftop was illuminated with yellow lights—it was outstanding.
The lantern-lit streets were just as we expected; everywhere felt so enchanting. We then headed over to the big square by the North Gate. It’s a wide open plaza compared to the tight maze of streets and, as expected, a popular meeting spot.
At the centre is the huge traditional water wheel, built in the style of the old irrigation systems that once supplied the town’s network of canals. Right behind it is the large carved stone sign that reads “Lijiang Old Town,” which everyone inevitably stops to photograph.
There was a large area of street food stalls in the far corner of the square, selling a mix of dishes—some more appetising than others. We played it safe with spicy potatoes, not feeling particularly adventurous and most definitely not tempted by the deep-fried bugs or intestines.
Afterwards, we walked to the main nightlife zone, which is centred in the pedestrian maze of Lijiang Old Town, especially around Sifang Street (Square Street) and the surrounding canal-lined lanes branching off it.
What you couldn’t miss was the live music—but not a one-man show. The bars and restaurants here have full-on boy bands or singers with dancers; it’s proper performance. The boy band singers were often staged in front of a full-length glass window on the upper floor of a bar, so basically the audience was the street below.
We’d never seen anything like it before. It was really cheesy, but fun to see all the same. The street was jam-packed as well—you had to stroll with the crowds; there was no rushing through.
We didn’t stop for a drink as it wasn’t really our vibe. We were happier to find somewhere more chilled to relax after a full day.
The temperature had dropped and there was definitely a chill in the air. On the walk back to the hotel, we were very thankful for the electric blanket waiting to warm the bed.
The next morning, we walked over to Black Dragon Pool, which is located just outside the old town. It was a nice day, and from here you can get views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
We were immediately impressed when we arrived. It’s not just one pond, as we had thought—it’s more of a park area with a series of pools layered gently across the landscape, connected by small stone channels and low bridges. The first pool had pagodas in the foreground, perfectly mirrored in the water, with the snow-capped mountain rising behind them. Visually, it was stunning.
Pathways lead around the pools, making it a very pleasant walk, and there are a few restaurants where you can stop and relax.
The whole scene has a very different mood from Lijiang Old Town—less busy, more open, with expansive views.
We spent a few hours here, moving between different spots, taking in the scenery and just relaxing.
In the afternoon, we continued exploring the old town and discovered a large fruit and veg market. I took photos of all the unusual fruits so I could find out later what they were.
We also stumbled across a park filled with several groups dancing. It was nice to watch people enjoying themselves in the fresh air. I feel we’ve lost this back home, which is a shame.
It had been another great day, filled with wandering, discovering new corners of the old town, and simply enjoying the rhythm of life here. Tomorrow we’d be heading out towards the snow mountain area. Most people go up the mountain via cable car, however that one’s got the better of us—I’m not a fan of cable cars, and Shane isn’t a fan of heights.
However, the area is also home to Blue Moon Valley, which sounds amazing and perfect for us—mountain landscapes from ground level.
We wanted to be at the mountain area just as the sun came up, so we made sure we were up early to take a taxi there. It took about 45 minutes from the old town. As we approached the mountain area, we thought we were seeing things. Just off the roadside were bride and groom photoshoots set against the mountain range, right as the sun was rising and hitting the tips of the peaks.
There wasn’t just one couple—we’re talking loads of them. I imagine they were freezing, but the photographs would be spectacular.
When we arrived at the visitor centre the sun was just coming up, there wasn’t a little cloud above the range, but it was constantly changing. It was freezing and we were wrapped up, those brides must have been frozen.
It was busy even this early, with many people likely heading up the mountain before the larger crowds arrived.
It was a shame, really, that we let fear get the better of us, as I imagine the scenery would have been amazing.
The Glacier Park Cableway (the big one) takes you up to around 4,500m—that’s some altitude. It’s so high that oxygen canisters are sold for you to take with you (you can also buy them in Lijiang). For that reason, we didn’t really fancy it. Told you—we’ve gone a bit “scaredy-cat” in our old age.
We were still happy to visit Blue Moon Valley. We purchased our tickets from the visitor centre, and then they took us by shuttle bus. There are a few stops where you can get off in the valley—we got a bit mixed up and ended up at one of the lower stops. Never mind, it just meant we got a few extra steps in.
It’s the colour of the water you notice first. The valley has a series of bright turquoise lakes sitting at the base of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, fed by glacial meltwater. The minerals in the water give it that unreal blue colour—on a clear day it almost looks fake, like something out of a screensaver.
We had a mix of sun and cloud, but luckily when the sun came out, we got to see this for ourselves.
The valley itself is easy to explore—wooden walkways wind alongside the water, with small waterfalls stepping down between pools.
The wedding photography continued here. There must have been a hundred couples, most of the women wearing blue bridal gowns to complement the colour of the water. I did a bit of research on the spot and read that pre-wedding photography is huge in China, so most of these couples were probably due to be married rather than it being their actual wedding day. It’s a good job too, because half of the gowns were getting incredibly dirty, splayed out along the waterside.
It was here we saw our first yak, saddled up for tourists. I hadn’t realised just how beautiful they are, with their long, glossy coats. I didn’t like, however, that this one was being used for tourist photos—poor thing stood there all day. I just hope it doesn’t have to do it every day.
We strolled between the ponds, then walked back up to the earlier stop we’d missed on the bus. Even here, people were using oxygen canisters—it made us feel a bit better that we didn’t need them. Back at the top, the water cascades over a series of platforms. It looks a bit artificial, but still nice.
Unfortunately, it started to cloud over. We hadn’t done too badly considering, and at least we’d had some sunshine through the morning, so we were more than happy to head back.
We had one more day in Lijiang. We felt like we’d explored the old town and all it had to offer, so on our last day we took a taxi about 30 minutes to the ancient town of Shuhe Ancient Town. It sounded similar to Lijiang, but less touristy and a bit more rustic—definitely.
We got dropped off at one of the main gates and headed into the town. We were pleasantly surprised by Shuhe—it was beautiful, less chaotic than Lijiang Old Town, but still full of that classic Yunnan charm. It sits within the historic Ancient Tea Horse Road region, and like Lijiang, has small channels of water running through some of the streets. Horses were more of a feature here, offering tourists rides or horse-and-carriage-style experiences, with handlers often dressed in traditional-style clothing.
It was easier to wander without crowds constantly bumping into you.
As we explored further, we discovered quirky shops and restaurants with more outdoor seating and a really relaxed vibe. Many places had live music during the day, which we didn’t really notice in Lijiang. There were still costume photo experiences available for visitors, as in Lijiang.
Both Shuhe and Lijiang are beautiful, and it was lucky they’re so close together, so we could enjoy both places.
This brought our time in Lijiang to an end. We have one more night to enjoy, and then tomorrow we move on once more—back on the high-speed train to Shangri-La, another destination very much on the tourist trail in Yunnan. You’ll find most people head here after Lijiang.
The altitude increases once more, as Shangri-La sits at 3,300 metres above sea level on the wide-open Tibetan Plateau. It sounds more laid-back—prayer flags, monasteries, and open pastures. Sounds great!
Shangri-La
Once again, we travelled by high-speed train to Shangri-La. To us, there is no better way to travel—train travel here is superb, reliable, and affordable.
We were used to the procedure by now, giving zero stress to our travel days.
The journey wasn’t long, around an hour and a half. It hardly felt like we’d moved.
The scenery became more dramatic as we climbed higher into the mountains. We also passed through tunnels almost constantly. The amount of work that must have gone into this rail network is truly groundbreaking.
Our ears popped frequently due to the speed and change in altitude.
Shangri-La sits at around 3,300 metres above sea level, which is seriously high altitude. The air is much thinner and the temperatures are cooler. It lies on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau—one of the highest inhabited regions on earth, surrounded by mountains that don’t appear overly dramatic at first glance—simply because you’re already so high up.
We felt the temperature drop as soon as we exited the station. It wasn’t the best of days—quite dull, and it looked like rain was threatening.
We were soon on our way to the hotel in the Old Town (also known as Dukezong Ancient Town). Didi, like Uber, is great here—you never seem to wait long for a driver, and the prices are very reasonable.
The driver dropped us at the top end of our street, as the Old Town is pedestrianised. I’d done pretty much the same as in Lijiang and booked a room close to the road so we wouldn’t have to carry our bags far.
I followed Amap (China’s version of Google Maps) to locate the hotel, but for love nor money we couldn’t find it. So much for trying to make life easy—we went up and down the road and through back streets.
I decided to head back to the pinned location where there were a few hotels. Surely one of them would know where it was.
The first one I entered, the receptionist immediately asked, “Are you here for three nights?” I said yes—and it turned out it was the hotel. It had a completely different name on the signage outside, and there had been no mention in reviews or communications to indicate this.
Oh well, it didn’t matter—we were here now, thankfully.
We were also greeted by the cutest dog and the biggest fluffy cat I had ever seen. Both followed us as we were shown to our room.
The place was lovely, but it was freezing—no electric blankets this time either. We quickly set the air conditioning to heating mode and discovered the bathroom also had a heater. We turned both on full power, as the room felt colder than outside.
Hopefully it would be okay once it warmed up. I spotted an extra blanket in the corner, so no doubt we’d be using that too.
Shangri-La was going to be the coldest place we would visit in China, and we were only here for a couple of days, so I was sure we would be fine. We could layer up, especially at night.
It felt strange after so many months of hot weather to be back in coats and scarves. It was nice to get wrapped up again, though I still favour hot weather overall.
We headed out, as there was no point staying in the cold room—we would at least warm up by walking. It was also raining a little, and now and again there was a cold breeze… brrrr, it was fresh.
The welcome thing, however, was the smell of wood burning in the air from the burners we noticed in many of the restaurants.
It’s spring here now, but in winter I imagine it gets extremely cold. The number of dogs we passed confirmed this alone—big mountain husky-type dogs with thick coats, clearly adapted to the weather.
The architecture here is heavily influenced by Tibetan culture: little squares with stupas and prayer flags fluttering across streets, cobbled lanes, and winding alleyways connecting clusters of shops, guesthouses, and restaurants. It’s easy to get lost at first, but that adds to the charm—even on this drizzly afternoon, we liked the look of the place.
Passing a very inviting bakery with a wood burner going felt like the perfect excuse to warm up. It was designed like a European bakery, with pastry chefs working behind glass panels. The cakes looked amazing—we were spoiled for choice. We ordered a couple along with coffee and were happy to sit in the warmth for a while.
The town has a couple of squares. Moonlight Square is the main central square of the Old Town, surrounded by shops, cafés, and traditional Tibetan-style buildings.
The other is Guishan Park Square, slightly on the edge of the Old Town at the base of Guishan Hill, home to the massive golden prayer wheel.
The weather was forecast to be much better the next day, so we planned to explore the hill then.
Happy with our first venture out, we headed back to the hotel, hoping the room had warmed up a little. We planned to rest before heading out again later.
The room was indeed warmer when we returned, and we were greeted once more by the resident dog and cat. We love it when places we stay have friendly pets—always happy to have a bit of pet therapy now and then.
The rain had eased off later. It was still cold, but with the smell of wood burners in the air, we hoped to find a warm restaurant for dinner.
The streets were busy at night, and the town had a great vibe. Shops were still open, and sampling was a thing here too, like in Lijiang, so we accepted a few as we strolled through. Dressing up was also popular—we didn’t expect anything less.
We eventually found a warm place to eat before heading back for the night. We’d explore more tomorrow, as the weather was forecast to be much brighter.
The next morning, as forecast, the skies were blue. We hadn’t frozen overnight—in fact, we’d managed to get the room comfortable and slept well.
Refreshed and ready, we set out to explore more.
We wanted to return to see the prayer wheel in Guishan Park, as it’s one of the standout sights in the town. It’s not just a landmark—it’s a meaningful part of Tibetan Buddhist culture. This huge golden prayer wheel is one of the largest in the world. At over 20 metres high, it’s covered in gold with Tibetan script and takes a fair number of people to push it and get it moving.
At the square, we had to scan a QR code and register to enter the hill, which I think is due to crowd control and protecting the site from overcrowding.
There’s also a temple as part of the complex, richly decorated in deep reds and golds, with intricate detailing. Steep steps lead up to the temple and the prayer wheel, which sits at the top.
People were already resting on the steps and inhaling oxygen from canisters. We just took our time and felt fine. Before seeing this, I’d forgotten all about the altitude, so it clearly wasn’t affecting us as much as we’d thought—we’d obviously acclimatised.
From the top, you could walk around and take in a full 360-degree view of the town below and the surrounding mountains, many of them snow-capped in the distance. Around thirty people were gathered, pushing the prayer wheel.
In Tibetan Buddhism, spinning the wheel is considered a form of prayer. Inside the large wheel are thousands of written mantras, and with each full rotation, those prayers are believed to be released into the world, spreading compassion, good fortune, and positive energy.
So instead of saying the prayer out loud repeatedly, turning the wheel performs it symbolically.
It was nice to see it as a shared experience—strangers working together for the same purpose.
Afterwards, we continued exploring the Old Town, retracing some of our steps from the day before—but what a difference good weather makes. We liked the town anyway, but in the sunshine everything felt enhanced.
In the afternoon, we took a taxi 5–6 km out of town to Songzanlin Monastery. It is famed for being the largest Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Yunnan and one of the most important in southwest China. Built in 1679, it belongs to the Gelug (Yellow Hat) school of Tibetan Buddhism and is home to hundreds of monks.
Along the way, we saw more of the landscape—large open pastures with yaks grazing and prayer flag mounds, where groups of flags are arranged in triangular clusters.
As we neared the monastery, it appeared in layers of golden roofs and whitewashed walls against the mountains.
It feels more like a village, with buildings spread across the hillside, monks moving between them, and prayer flags shifting in the wind. It was also an extremely popular place for people to dress up in traditional Tibetan-style clothing, using the dramatic scenery as a backdrop. You’d struggle to take a photo without them.
We spent a couple of hours exploring the monastery, which is made up of multiple temples and halls. Large prayer halls are where monks gather for chanting and ceremonies, while smaller halls are dedicated to Buddha. Courtyards open out at different levels, filled with prayer wheels, incense burners, and offering areas.
We’d had a really good day, soaking up both the Old Town charm and its rural surroundings. Life here feels more relaxed—not in a slow or lazy way, but in a quieter rhythm shaped by altitude, landscape, and Tibetan culture.
As we wandered the streets later that evening, we could hear music in the distance. As we neared Moonlight Square, we saw it completely filled with locals dancing. The square was packed, with a large group moving in circular formations to music from a portable speaker—wow, it was amazing.
The steps were simple and repetitive, forming loose circles and lines that anyone could join. There was a mixed age group participating, and a relaxed confidence to it—you could see that everyone knew what they were doing, some more energetic than others.
Tourists stood watching at the edges, some joining in hesitantly, while the locals carried on completely at ease.
We later read that it’s a nightly activity, weather permitting, known as “square dancing.” Locals come together for about an hour—not just for exercise, but as a social ritual, a way of meeting friends and neighbours and building community.
We both agreed it was one of the nicest things we’d ever witnessed. The atmosphere was incredible, and we were genuinely a bit sad when it came to an end—note to self: come back tomorrow.
We had so many places we wanted to see in China and very little time, so the following day would be our last in Shangri-La. We were moving quickly through these towns, but for some reason it didn’t feel rushed—maybe because the transport between places was so seamless.
On our last day, we decided to visit Pudacuo National Park, around 22 km from Shangri-La City. It’s part of the Three Parallel Rivers UNESCO World Heritage Site and is famous for its untouched natural scenery.
We were going to take the tourist bus there, but after spending about an hour walking around trying to find the pickup point without success, we eventually opted for a taxi at a fair price.
Inside the park, shuttle buses transport visitors between the main sites. We paid the entrance fee and boarded one of the buses, which runs a set clockwise route with three main stops.
The first was Shudu Lake, a large alpine lake surrounded by wooden boardwalks, making it easy to walk along the shoreline. It was incredibly scenic, with forests, wetlands, and yaks and horses grazing nearby.
Apart from the altitude—now around 3,500 metres, with oxygen vending machines selling canisters as a constant reminder—it felt a little like home, in the best way, only much higher. The landscape echoed the UK’s national parks, only here it was yaks instead of cows grazing the land. In the distance, snow-dusted mountains rose above the tree line. It was quietly, undeniably beautiful.
We followed the boardwalk to the far side of the lake, where we met the shuttle bus to the next stop. The park is vast, so the system actually works really well.
The next stop was Bita Lake, the highest lake in the park, again surrounded by forest. We followed another boardwalk towards the water, where we spotted a drone overhead returning to a self-service drone rental station.
It was essentially a QR-code activated drone hire system—scan the code, unlock a drone for a set period, and fly it for aerial shots over the lake. It’s part of China’s growing “smart tourism” approach, and it was pretty impressive.
Further along, we noticed people walking back towards us. At first we thought it was a loop, but then we saw the path ahead had been closed off, meaning you had to return the same way. Likely for environmental protection or maintenance, which made sense.
Back on the bus, we expected the final stop to be Yak Meadow, but instead it returned directly to the main centre. After checking, we were told there were only two stops running that day.
We were a little disappointed, as Yak Meadow was what we had been most looking forward to. Looking it up afterwards, it seems it is often closed temporarily to allow fragile grassland to recover, which is completely understandable. Still, if we had known in advance, we might have planned differently, as it was quite a long journey for just two stops.
That said, we still enjoyed what we saw and didn’t let it bother us.
Our last evening, we returned once more to Moonlight Square to watch the dancing. It was just as heartwarming, and it was nice recognising familiar faces from the night before, confirming that many people take part every evening.
So Shangri-La had been short and sweet, but I don’t feel we missed out on anything. I think we covered most of the main sights and really enjoyed our time here.
Our next stop is Chengdu, and we have a long train journey ahead. Initially, we were going to fly, but we’ve enjoyed the train journeys so much that we don’t mind spending a full day on the rails. This journey will take around 10.5 hours, but we’re sure it will be relaxing, and the scenery will be great. By the time you factor in airport transfers and waiting times, we’d probably only save a few hours anyway.
Chengdu is not only a modern, fast-growing city, but also world-famous as the home of the giant panda and one of the best places on Earth to see them up close. You know how much we love wildlife, so we are very much looking forward to seeing the pandas and exploring the city.
Chengdu
I think we made the right decision taking the train. It was a long journey, over 10 hours; however, it was comfortable and scenic (when we weren’t travelling through tunnels). We treated it as a chance to sit back and relax for the day.
By the time we arrived, it was already dark, so we took a taxi to the apartment we’d booked for our stay. We really like the space and homely feel an apartment gives us, and before long we were settled in, with a wash on and a movie playing.
Our main reason for visiting Chengdu was to see the giant panda. The giant panda is native to a very specific part of China, and Chengdu sits right in the heart of that natural range. The cool, wet climate, dense bamboo forests, and remote mountain terrain make this region perfect for them.
While wild pandas still live in the surrounding mountains, seeing one in the wild would be extremely unlikely. Most of what visitors see near the city comes from conservation centres such as the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding or, just outside the city, Panda Valley. There are a few others as well, but these are the main ones.
These centres exist because wild panda populations became very small due to habitat loss and isolation. As a result, breeding programmes were established to help the species recover. They do important conservation work, focusing on breeding pandas in controlled, safe environments and releasing some individuals back into protected reserves.
We were only in Chengdu for a few days. First, we explored the city, saving the pandas for the following day.
Chengdu is a modern city. The skyline is full of sleek skyscrapers, glass towers, and LED screens everywhere. We were only a short walk from large shopping districts like IFS and Taikoo Li, with their high-end retail stores. We headed there first; it was spotlessly clean, landscaped, and very modern, with 3D advertising screens on the corners of buildings.
The panda theme is everywhere in Chengdu, even in this modern setting. We saw people dressed in panda costumes, shops full of panda souvenirs, and even a giant panda climbing one of the skyscrapers. It felt like the city fully embraces its identity.
We were also looking forward to trying the street food, as Chengdu is the heart of Sichuan cuisine, which is famous for its bold, spicy, and numbing flavours. It’s not just chilli heat—it’s a mix of chilli and Sichuan peppercorn, which sounded right up our street.
Our first experience of this was dan dan noodles, a simple noodle dish topped with minced pork but packed with bold, addictive flavour. It’s not just spicy—it’s layered, oily, fragrant, and very moreish—definitely one we’ll be having again.
After exploring the modern shopping area, we decided to walk to Jinli Ancient Street. It was around a 40-minute walk from where we were. We could have taken a taxi or the metro, but we like to walk as it allows us to see more of the city.
Jinli Ancient Street is one of Chengdu’s most famous historic streets and a great contrast to the modern skyline. It’s a pedestrianised street that has been restored to recreate the feel of old Sichuan life. It’s not “authentic old Chengdu” in the strict historical sense, but it captures a mix of atmosphere and culture in one place.
It was a lively, touristy place with lots going on. The streets were filled with food stalls selling skewers, sweets, and spicy snacks, as well as local craft and souvenir shops, and small bars and tea houses tucked into old-style buildings.
There was lots of sampling going on, so we were being fed as we walked through the narrow lanes. We passed a bakery selling egg custard tarts—not the Portuguese type you normally see, but more like the ones we have back home. I couldn’t resist trying one. So glad I did—absolutely delicious.
Shortly after, the weather decided to change. With black skies looming, it wasn’t long before the rain started—and it wasn’t just a shower. Everyone took shelter wherever they could. While waiting in the hope it would pass, we were entertained by people taking advantage of the now deserted streets. Umbrella up, cameras out—off they strutted up and down the lanes. We found it hilarious; they seize any opportunity to make video content.
It didn’t seem to be letting up; however, a man came down the street selling umbrellas (how convenient). They were only £1, so we were more than happy to buy one. At least we could continue exploring.
We didn’t hang around much longer as we started to feel cold from the rain. We decided we’d try to return one evening, as we imagined it would be quite atmospheric when the lanterns were lit, so we headed back to the apartment—this time by taxi.
We headed out later to grab some street food and see the city by night. We were staying in a great location near Taikoo Li and Chunxi Road, right in the heart of the city centre.
Taikoo Li was literally on our doorstep. It’s a beautifully designed shopping complex, with low-rise buildings inspired by traditional Sichuan architecture, but modernised. Think sloped tiled roofs, courtyard-style layouts, trees, and art installations—it was very impressive.
Chunxi Road has a completely different vibe: a huge pedestrian street filled with bright lights and billboards, shopping malls, and street food stalls. It still has that mix of old and new—you’ll find an ultra-modern mall right next to a peaceful historic temple, like Daci Temple.
We didn’t stay out too late, as an early night was in order. The following morning, we were up at the crack of dawn to visit Panda Valley in Dujiangyan, about an hour and a half outside the city. It’s supposedly much quieter and less crowded than the main panda base, with a more relaxed, nature-park feel.
It opens at 7:30, and we’d read that if you want a quieter experience, it’s definitely worth getting there for opening time. So that meant a start at 6:00am.
With such an early start, we decided the easiest and most convenient way to get there was by taxi. Fortunately, the roads were quiet, so we had a smooth, uninterrupted run. As we neared Dujiangyan, the landscape became more lush and green, with rolling hills covered in dense bamboo forests at the edge of the mountains.
The weather had improved—cloudy but dry. We’d purchased tickets online, so when we arrived we just had to show our passports to gain entry.
There were a few groups around, but we’d definitely made the right decision arriving early. We followed the signs leading to the pandas, and up ahead a group had stopped—always a good sign. Sure enough, there was a panda.
It was so lovely to see it slouched there, happily munching through a big stack of bamboo. We stood watching as it enjoyed its breakfast, peeling the bamboo and scattering the strips all over its belly. It was incredibly adorable.
The giant pandas live in what are known as ecological enclosures, designed to mimic natural mountain forest conditions—dense bamboo groves, trees, and uneven terrain rather than flat cages. There are streams, rocks, and natural vegetation throughout, and the whole valley is heavily wooded, so the enclosures blend seamlessly into the landscape.
Pandas have space to roam, climb, and retreat from view, which supports both their welfare and the research carried out there. Unlike a standard zoo, Panda Valley’s main purpose is to prepare pandas for eventual release into the wild.
There was a rock wall in the enclosure, and perched high above were two peacocks. We only noticed them when they made their familiar call. What stood out was that they were completely white. We’d never seen white peacocks before and didn’t even know they existed. A quick search later, we found out they’re not a separate species, but the result of a genetic condition affecting pigmentation. Fascinating and completely unexpected.
We continued on to see more pandas—one enclosure had four, all enjoying breakfast. It was great to watch.
The centre is also home to red pandas. There’s a dedicated red panda zone set within a forested valley, and what makes it special is that, although it’s still a managed conservation area, they’re not confined to small cages. Instead, they live in a woodland-style habitat, and the whole area is quiet, green, and spread out, so it doesn’t feel like a traditional zoo.
They’re more active than giant pandas, so it didn’t take long before we spotted them. They are the sweetest things—despite the name, red pandas aren’t actually related to giant pandas; they’re closer to raccoons than bears.
We followed the woodland trail and were lucky enough to see several—probably because we arrived early, as we’d read that the best time to spot them is in the morning or late afternoon.
As we walked through the red panda valley, a fine mist drifted through the trees, released from discreet nozzles hidden along the paths and among the branches.
The spray was gentle rather than heavy—more like a light haze than rain—and it helped recreate the cool, humid conditions that red pandas thrive in.
The crowds started to build after a while, so we moved on as we’d already spent quite a bit of time observing the red pandas. This meant we could take our time retracing our steps past the giant panda enclosures. By then it was really crowded, so we were glad we’d taken the advice to get there early. We had a quick look, but there was no need to fight through the crowds, as we’d seen them earlier. Happy with our visit, we then headed to the exit.
We took a taxi back into Chengdu, tired after the early start, and managed to have a short snooze on the way back.
It was our last night in Chengdu, so we decided to return to Jinli Ancient Street. By the time we arrived, it was busy but had a good atmosphere. The red lanterns were lit along the street, and everything felt more lively than during the day. Food stalls were in full swing, with people stopping off for snacks as they made their way through.
We took our time walking along, stopping here and there for street food, but mostly just soaking it up as we went. It was crowded in places, but nothing too overwhelming and easy enough to move through. As it got later, things slowly started to wind down, but it still felt like a good time to be there—and a nice way to end our time in Chengdu.
Tomorrow we move on to Chongqing. We didn’t initially plan to visit, but I managed to squeeze in two nights into the itinerary. It’s quite close—just under two hours by high-speed rail—so it would’ve been a shame to miss it. Chongqing sounds fun: neon lights, skyscrapers, and hi-tech. Bring it on.
Chongqing
The train to Chongqing was only a couple of hours, followed by a short taxi ride to the hotel. As we entered the city over a huge Qiansimen bridge, all we could say was wow. The skyline on both sides of the river was seriously impressive—packed with ultra-modern buildings and towering skyscrapers.
We got settled quickly and headed straight out. We were staying right in the heart of Chongqing, in the Yuzhong district, close to places like Hongya Cave and Jiefangbei Square so it was a great base for exploring.
We were also meeting up with friends we’d met back in Dali. They’re travelling in a similar way to us, and although they’ve been a day or two ahead, our paths have crossed a few times now. It’s been great being able to spend a few evenings together along the way. They were staying in the same hotel too, which definitely helped in a city this big.
We decided to head out first as we’d planned to catch up with them later.
From the hotel, we made our way first towards Jiefangbei Square. This is the city’s main commercial centre. Big pedestrian area, loads of shops, malls, and restaurants, all built around the Liberation Monument.
Next we headed in the direction of the river towards Hongya Cave, but with no real plan, we ended up wandering off here and there. We stumbled across the “chopsticks building” by accident—a brilliant piece of architecture and one of those unexpected finds you’re glad you didn’t miss.
Eventually, we made it to Hongya Cave. It’s one of Chongqing’s most famous spots—a multi-level complex built into the side of the riverbank, designed in traditional style with wooden structures stacked up the hillside. It’s full of shops, food stalls, and walkways, and from content I’ve seen it looks especially impressive at night when it’s all lit up. We were close by, so thought we’d check it out during the day first.
We spent a while looking around; sampling was big here as well. One girl stopped us to try some rice wine—some was more potent than others—and she kept topping us up. We felt awful when we didn’t buy any, but slightly tipsy (not really), we headed back to the hotel.
That evening, we met up with our friends, who said they’d already found a few good spots to take us to. We jumped on the metro—our first time using it—so it was handy having them show us how it all worked. On the way, we passed the most incredible temple, tucked right between the skyscrapers. I love that contrast of old and new—it’s something China does so well.
The restaurant they took us to was brilliant. It had great views across the river, with the skyline all lit up at night. It was a smart, trendy place where you could grab drinks from a wall of fridges, pay at the till, and take them back to your table—simple but worked really well.
We had such a good night. They kindly treated us to dinner, and we spent most of the evening chatting and playing dice (I was terrible). As always, we completely lost track of time, but it didn’t really matter. It was just one of those easy nights where everything feels relaxed and unplanned. We eventually got a taxi back to the hotel, tired but in a good way.
The next day we wanted to fit in as much as possible, as we only had the one full day.
We started by exploring some of the nearby streets, taking in more of the modern architecture around us. In Jiefangbei Square is the People’s Liberation Monument—an historical landmark that marks China’s victory in WWII. It’s surrounded now by modern skyscrapers, which makes for a nice contrast. Close by was a small park lined with trees, where a group of older women were practising a dance with swords. The movements were slow and controlled—really calming to watch, and a nice contrast to the pace of the city.
We also made a point of walking back to the beautiful temple from the previous evening. Luohan Temple stands as one of the city’s oldest Buddhist temples, founded around 1064–1068. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to go inside.
After that, we took the metro to Liziba Station, where the train famously runs straight through a residential building. It’s become a bit of a tourist attraction. We came out through the station itself, then crossed the road to the viewing platform where everyone waits to watch the trains pass through. We hung around for a few trains to pass to get the photo and video—like everyone else—before moving on.
Next, we headed to the Great Hall of the People. It’s one of Chongqing’s main landmarks, built in the 1950s and inspired by traditional Chinese architecture, with a large domed roof and symmetrical design. It’s used for meetings and events, but we just admired it from the large square outside rather than going in.
The walk there took a bit longer than expected, but at least we got the steps in.
After that, we took the metro back across the river, not too far from where we’d been the night before. We wanted to walk along the riverside, and it turned out to be one of the highlights. The whole area has been really well developed, with wide walkways and cycle paths stretching for miles.
As we walked, we saw people swimming in the river—mostly older locals, each with a float for safety. It was lovely to see, and honestly, if I lived there, I’d probably do the same. There were also people out on jet skis and powered jetboards and sections where groups were meeting, swimming, chatting, and sitting around afterwards with tea. It had a really relaxed, social feel.
We carried on and found a great spot just below the Qiansimen Bridge. There were food stalls, seating areas, and little spots set up under the arches with lanterns. We stopped there for a drink and had some of the best spicy potatoes—so good—and just sat for a while taking in the view.
The metro was right above us, so we hopped back on and headed over to our side of the river.
That evening, we met our friends again—this time for somewhere closer to the hotel. They took us to what we called a “skewers place.” There were fridges full of uncooked skewers—meat, vegetables, everything—and you just picked what you wanted and handed it over to be cooked.
Most of it was really good, others… not so much. A couple of the mushrooms were almost impossible to eat—really squeaky as you chewed. I thought I’d be there all night trying to get through them.
Still, it was another great evening. Lots of food, plenty of laughs, and a really nice way to end our time together. We’d be going our separate ways the next day, but we’ll definitely keep in touch. I wouldn’t be surprised if our paths cross again somewhere down the line.
We really liked Chongqing. We didn’t manage to fit everything in—we never made it back to see Hongya Cave at night, and we didn’t get to ride the cable car across the Yangtze River—but that just gives us a reason to come back. It’s a fun city, with a great energy, and somewhere we could easily return to.
Tomorrow we move on to Xi’an. It’s another high-speed train journey, around five hours, and we’re heading there to see the Terracotta Army—one of China’s most famous archaeological sites, with thousands of life-sized soldiers buried for over 2,000 years. It’s something we’ve been looking forward to for a long time.
Xi’an
We arrived in Xi’an once again on the high-speed train from Chongqing, this time a smooth 5.5-hour ride. Everything about these trains now feels almost routine, which is wild considering how futuristic they still are. We nearly messed it up at the start though — alarm was on silent and we almost overslept. Luckily I woke up just in time and we made it to the station without any drama. Phew.
We were staying near the Bell Tower and Drum Tower area, right in the middle of the old city. It’s one of those spots where everything seems to revolve around you. The Bell Tower sits bang in the centre of a huge roundabout — apparently it used to mark the heart of ancient Xi’an when this place (then called Chang’an) was one of the biggest cities in the world. The Drum Tower isn’t far away either, which was used back in the day to signal time and evening curfews. Now it’s all traffic, neon, and constant movement… but you still get little flashes of what it must’ve once been.
It also meant we were right next to the Muslim Quarter, which is one of the main reasons we picked this area. Easy walking, loads of food, and always something going on.
But the real reason most people come to Xi’an is the Terracotta Army. Not that the city doesn’t have more to offer, but that’s the headline act.
We took the metro from the train station since there was a stop near the hotel. What we didn’t fully account for was just how far the walk actually is inside those stations — platforms, exits, tunnels… all with heavy bags. Definitely felt like a warm-up we didn’t ask for.
Once checked in, we didn’t hang around. Straight back out to the Bell Tower area. And honestly, we weren’t expecting the level of chaos we walked into — loads of people dressed in full traditional Tang-style outfits, makeup done, hair styled, the whole thing. It’s something we’ve seen in other cities, but here it felt next level. Almost every other person was either mid-photoshoot or livestreaming. Tripods everywhere. People posing literally in the middle of crowds like it was normal. We just stood there taking it in for a bit before moving on.
We headed into the Muslim Quarter next, which you can reach easily via underground walkways. The vibe changes instantly — bright lights, narrow streets, food everywhere, and a proper buzz. Neon signs, skewers smoking on grills, stalls calling you over constantly. It’s a bit chaotic but in a good way.
We basically did what we always do here — just ate our way through it. Tried a few things, moved on, tried something else. Food in China has been one of the biggest surprises of the trip — always good, always something different, never boring.
We kept wandering deeper into the quarter, street after street packed with food and people. It’s the kind of place where you don’t really need a plan — just follow whatever smells good.
Eventually we stopped for skewers and a drink and just sat for a bit, letting everything slow down. When we checked our maps later we realised it was a solid 45-minute walk back to the hotel. We could’ve grabbed a taxi, but we didn’t mind walking it off and seeing more of the city.
Next day was the big one — Terracotta Army.
We got a taxi out early, aiming for opening time. Booked tickets online as recommended. When we arrived it was already slightly chaotic — gates opened and people actually started running to join queues. Not what you expect at a historical site, but there we were.
Inside, you can either walk or take electric shuttles to the pits. We saw the crowd sprinting for the buses and decided we’d just walk it. Somehow still got there around the same time anyway.
Pit 1 was first — the big one everyone talks about. Rows and rows of life-sized soldiers standing in formation stretching right into the distance. The history behind it is pretty wild too. The whole thing was only discovered in 1974 when a few local farmers were digging a well and stumbled across fragments of the warriors buried underground. They were built over 2,000 years ago for China’s first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, supposedly to protect him in the afterlife. What’s still hard to get your head around is that each figure is different, especially when you’re standing there looking out over thousands of them.
We were glad we came early — it was actually calm enough to walk around and take it in properly.
Then we moved on to Pit 2 and 3. Pit 2 has more variety — cavalry, archers, chariots, different military setups. Pit 3 is much smaller, both these showing excavation.
We went back to Pit 1 after that, but honestly that was a mistake. By then it was packed and you could barely move. So we made a quick exit — definitely glad we’d seen it earlier.
From there we took the shuttle over to the bronze chariot exhibition. These were discovered near the emperor’s tomb and are ridiculously detailed — like miniature versions of full royal chariots. Really impressive craftsmanship for something that old.
After a couple of hours there, we headed back into the city.
That evening we went straight back to the same skewer place we’d found the night before. No need to overthink it — it was good, so we went again. This time though, definitely no walking. Taxi all the way.
The following day we did the Xi’an City Wall. One of the best preserved in China and it basically loops around the old city. We went up via the South Gate, which is the main entrance and probably the most impressive bit.
Once you’re up there it’s a massive walkway stretching for miles. We thought about doing the full loop but the heat made that idea fade pretty quickly. After a while it all starts to look fairly similar, but the corners are great when you get those big views out over the city.
And again — people in costume everywhere. It’s just part of Xi’an now apparently.
We exited through the North Gate and dropped back into the city. From there we slowly wandered back towards the Muslim Quarter, recognising some of the streets we’d walked on our first evening in Xi’an. It actually made us realise just how much walking we’d done that first night without really thinking about it at the time.
By day the streets were just as lively, packed with people and lined with stalls serving every kind of food imaginable, while others were already busy setting up ready for the evening crowds. Eventually we reached the entrance to Beiyuanmen Street near the Drum Tower, which was every bit as chaotic and busy in daylight as it had been at night.
From there it wasn’t far to the Great Mosque. It’s been there for centuries, built during the Tang era, but what makes it interesting is how it looks — very Chinese architecture rather than what you’d normally expect from a mosque. It’s not particularly big so it didn’t take us long to walk around, but it was a nice little addition to the day.
That night we kept things low-key. We were pretty worn out from the last few days of walking.
Our final full day we went to the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. It wasn’t too far, just a short metro ride across town. The pagoda itself is over 1,300 years old, built back in 652 AD during the Tang Dynasty to store Buddhist scriptures brought back from India
Today it’s one of Xi’an’s key sights — not overly grand or flashy, but an important historical landmark. Now it sits in a big open square with fountains and space to just wander around. And of course — more people in costume. At this point we just stopped being surprised.
We spent a few hours there, then headed back to the hotel to chill for a while. The last few weeks have been pretty hectic, so we were more than happy to rest up for a bit.
That evening, we found what turned out to be one of the best street food areas right near the hotel — somehow we’d missed it the whole time. Busy, local, full of skewers and smoke and noise. We ended up at a skewer place that was even better than the one we’d already been to twice. Perfect way to finish Xi’an.
Our time in China was starting to wind down now. Next stop was Beijing — our final stop — and the Great Wall was waiting.
Beijing
Beijing would be our final stop of this Chinese journey. With only a 30-day visa, we unfortunately had to move a little quicker than we normally like, trying to squeeze in as much as we could while we still had the chance. Looking back at everything we’d already seen, it was hard to complain.
When planning where to stay in Beijing, most people recommended the Wangfujing district because of its close proximity to the big sights such as Tiananmen Square and Forbidden City. But Beijing’s metro system is so well connected that, within reason, it didn’t really matter where you stayed.
With that in mind, I did a bit of research which led me to the Hutongs — the older, more characterful parts of Beijing, full of narrow lanes, hanging red lanterns and a glimpse of what old Beijing once looked like. I found a small hotel conveniently located in Houhai, close to the lake, the Drum and Bell Towers and the Shichahai scenic area. It sounded perfect. From there we could easily jump on the metro each day to visit the tourist sights.
To get to Beijing we took the high-speed train one final time, and this one really was a bullet train. At times it reached speeds of 240km/h, carrying us from Xi’an to Beijing in just four hours.
With our heavy bags in tow, we grabbed a taxi over to the Hutongs, only a little more than thirty minutes to the hotel. Arriving there, it was hard to imagine we were in the capital city of China at all — narrow tree-lined lanes, traditional single-storey courtyard houses and barely any traffic. First impressions were excellent. It felt local, calm and strangely quiet for such a gigantic city.
We didn’t hang about. Like usual, we quickly settled in and headed straight back out.
Just a few minutes away stood the ancient Drum Tower and Bell Tower, once used during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties to keep time across the city before clocks existed. Around the square below them, locals gathered playing jianzi — the game where they kick a weighted shuttlecock between each other without letting it touch the ground. Children ran around laughing while older men painted beautiful calligraphy messages onto the pavement using giant brushes dipped only in water, the words slowly disappearing as they dried. The whole place had such a warm, relaxed atmosphere to it.
From there we wandered down towards Houhai Lake. It was busy — very busy — and clearly one of the more touristy parts of the city, but for good reason. The lakeside setting was beautiful, with traditional buildings lining the water alongside little boutiques, teahouses, bars and restaurants tucked beneath lanterns. Nearby stood a beautiful temple, where worshippers were making offerings, while pagodas and stone walkways along the lakeside added to the historic atmosphere. Boats drifted slowly across the lake, bicycle rickshaws offered rides through the hutongs, and older local men sat fishing along the banks. It felt lively without completely losing its charm.
The smell of street food drifting through the lanes eventually got the better of us. We couldn’t resist trying one of the popular meat pies called Mending Roubing — often described as a Chinese-style burger — a pan-fried pastry stuffed with juicy beef filling. Simple, greasy and absolutely delicious. We’ve come across different regional variations of these across China now: steamed buns, baked roujiamo, and other local versions, but I think these crispy fried ones were my favourite.
We took a slow stroll around the lake awhile longer, enjoying the perfect weather despite the heavy crowds. It felt like a great first introduction to Beijing, and with that we eventually sauntered back through the Hutongs towards the hotel.
That evening we headed back out again, this time avoiding the lakeside crowds and instead exploring the streets around the Drum Tower before wandering down towards what we considered the main street of the area. It was absolutely packed, and then we remembered — the Labour Day holidays had just begun in China, a huge five-day national holiday when millions of people travel around the country.
The streets were incredibly colourful at night. Red lanterns and neon lights. Everywhere people strolled slowly with snacks in hand, moving from one food vendor to the next picking at sweet and savoury treats. The whole area buzzed with energy.
Eventually we came across a pedestrianised street that was absolutely heaving with people. You couldn’t really avoid it, so we joined the crowds and drifted along with everyone else. As seemed to happen often in China, we were stopped a few times and handed little samples of Chinese tea and nougat — they really do seem to love the stuff there.
A little further along we spotted a quirky looking bar and instantly knew it was our kind of place, perfect for people watching. Inside was the most adorable cat lounging on a cushion atop the bar counter — one of those flat-faced cats with the permanently grumpy expression, just like Bagpuss. It was ridiculously cute.
We grabbed a little bench made for two outside, ordered a couple of drinks and a bowl of peanuts, then simply sat watching the world go by as the day came to an end.
I hadn’t realised before arriving in Beijing that many of the famous attractions, especially the Forbidden City, have to be booked well in advance. Whoops. I hoped I hadn’t made a bit of a blunder.
I spent ages scouring different websites online only to discover that standard entrance tickets for the Forbidden City were completely sold out for the entire week we were there. They only issue around 40,000 tickets a day, which sounds loads until you remember the sheer size of Beijing and the amount of domestic tourism during the Labour Day holidays.
After a lot of searching, I finally found availability. It was more expensive than visiting independently, but if we wanted to see it at all, we didn’t really have another option. While I was at it, I also booked a tour to the Great Wall of China. That way the two main sights we absolutely wanted to see were guaranteed.
To be fair, I don’t think the Great Wall tour would have sold out. Our original plan had simply been to take the bus there ourselves and pay on arrival, but the guided trip worked out pretty much the same price anyway, so it felt like a no-brainer.
With the next two days now sorted, today was completely free for us to explore wherever we fancied.
We decided to head down towards the area around Tiananmen Square. The metro station was conveniently close to our hotel, and we took the direct line towards the palace area. At the very least it would serve as a useful little practice run for tomorrow’s tour, since we’d be making the exact same journey again.
Throughout our trip around China we’d noticed just how much people love dressing up in traditional clothing — it’s absolutely huge business there. So when we emerged from the metro near the palace district, the streets were filled with people in elaborate historical costumes. Honestly, we probably shouldn’t have expected anything less around somewhere as grand as the Forbidden City.
We made a point of finding our meeting spot for the tour the following morning, which at least felt organised, then followed the signs towards Tiananmen Square.
Security around this area is understandably very tight, so we joined a queue where bags were scanned and passports checked before being allowed through. After that we found ourselves in yet another queue which we assumed was simply for entering the square itself. Thankfully we hadn’t waited too long before reaching the front where a guard asked to see our barcode.
What barcode?
It turned out that even though Tiananmen Square is free to enter, you still have to pre-register online beforehand. We really weren’t doing very well with Beijing’s booking system at this point. Never mind — we decided we’d register later and hopefully visit another day instead.
With a sudden change of plan, we headed over to Wangfujing, Beijing’s famous shopping district. The area has been one of the city’s main commercial streets for hundreds of years, though nowadays it’s a mix of huge shopping malls, department stores, food streets and bright modern storefronts. It was busy, flashy and felt completely different to the quieter Hutongs where we were staying.
Afterwards we took the metro again, this time heading towards the Temple of Heaven, one place I’d really wanted to visit.
The day had completely flown by and it was already mid-afternoon when we arrived, though people were still pouring through the gates. There were traditional costumes everywhere here — honestly I think we may have been the only people there wearing normal clothes-ha!
The temple complex itself was beautiful. Originally built in the early 1400s during the Ming dynasty, it was where the emperors once came to pray for good harvests and offer ceremonies to heaven. The most famous building, with its deep blue tiled roof and perfect circular design, looked even more impressive in person than in photographs. The surrounding gardens were lovely too, full of ancient trees, open courtyards and locals relaxing in the shade away from the heat.
We spent around an hour wandering around, but by then the crowds, heat and constant noise had started catching up with us. We felt like we’d seen enough to appreciate the place, so decided to call it a day and head back towards the Hutongs.
Honestly, we definitely chose well staying there. After the crowds and chaos of central Beijing, it was such a relief walking back through the quieter narrow streets towards the hotel.
We didn’t have a late night, just grabbed some dinner before heading back to the hotel and getting an early night, as tomorrow would be an early start. We had to meet at around 8am near the Forbidden City for our tour. Thankfully our little dummy run the previous day had served us well, so we knew exactly where to go and how long to allow. We arrived with plenty of time to spare — mainly because I’m always early for everything.
Once the whole group had gathered, we set off towards the main entrance. Our guide warned us that because of the Labour Day holidays it would be extremely busy inside, so we needed to stick together. We were all given little earpieces which actually worked really well, allowing us to hear the guide clearly even amongst the huge crowds and making it much easier to know where we were supposed to be heading.
As we moved through the palace complex, the guide would regularly pull us into quieter corners to explain the history of the different sections before continuing onwards. The Forbidden City was built in the early 1400s during the Ming dynasty and served as the home of Chinese emperors for almost 500 years. It’s enormous, made up of hundreds of buildings and courtyards, all designed with strict symbolism and symmetry to reflect imperial power and status. Everywhere you looked there were golden rooftops, giant ceremonial halls and ornate carvings that somehow still felt impressive despite the endless crowds surrounding them.
It was an incredibly hot day, so every tour group seemed to be fighting for small patches of shade each time they stopped to listen to their guide.
Honestly, I was glad we’d ended up doing the visit as part of a tour. The history made it far more interesting. The palace itself is absolutely massive and many of the buildings are quite similar in style, so I think if we’d wandered around alone we’d probably have reached a point where it all started feeling a bit samey-samey. Having the stories and explanations brought the place to life much more.
The tour also included entry to Jingshan Park directly opposite the palace. From there it’s only a short uphill walk — nothing too strenuous — but the views from the top are fantastic. You can see the entire Forbidden City stretching out below you, its golden roofs perfectly lined up in the middle of Beijing.
What struck me most from up there though was just how flat Beijing is. Compared to cities packed with skyscrapers, Beijing feels far more spread out and low-rise overall, more of a giant sprawling city than a towering skyline. It obviously has modern business districts with huge buildings, but across much of the city the skyline stays surprisingly low and open.
After our tour of the Forbidden City and the climb up through Jingshan Park, we decided to walk back. Even more steps, but the weather was pleasant and it was still only early afternoon, so we kept exploring on foot.
Looking at the map, I could see Beihai Park was roughly on the way, so we wandered through there instead. Like many of Beijing’s parks there was a small entrance fee, but nothing much.
It turned out to be a lovely place for a walk. The large lake gave it a calm atmosphere after the crowds earlier in the day, while the striking white pagoda sitting high on the island overlooked the whole park.
By this point our legs were probably nearing their limit, so we didn’t explore the park fully, but it made for a really pleasant walk back towards the hotel and actually didn’t take that long at all. The far end of the lake was literally a stone’s throw from the lakeside around Shichahai and Houhai near where we were staying.
It had been a really good day overall. We’d learnt some history and once again walked miles around the city.
The next day was the one we’d been most excited for — visiting the Great Wall of China. This had been on Shane’s bucket list for years and was one of the main reasons we’d wanted to visit China in the first place.
It was another early start, so once again we’d had an early night beforehand. There are several different sections of the Great Wall you can visit from Beijing, some known for being extremely crowded. After doing a bit of research, we’d read that Mutianyu Great Wall was one of the better options if you wanted slightly fewer crowds whilst still seeing one of the most scenic and well-preserved parts of the wall, so that’s where we decided to go.
From central Beijing it takes roughly two hours to drive there. Thankfully our guide was brilliant and kept the journey interesting the whole way with bits of history and useful advice. One thing we hadn’t realised beforehand was just how worthwhile it was taking the cable car up to the wall — something our guide strongly recommended. While we were still on the bus we were able to buy the tickets directly through her, which saved queuing once we arrived.
In hindsight it was definitely the right choice. Taking the cable car not only saved a fair bit of time and energy, but also meant we could actually enjoy walking along the wall itself rather than exhausting ourselves climbing endless steps just to reach it. Our guide also explained which direction along the wall was the most scenic, where the steeper sections were and which watchtowers offered the best views, so by the time we arrived we felt surprisingly organised.
Once we reached the Mutianyu Great Wall we were completely blown away, mainly by just how high up into the mountains the wall actually runs. Seeing photographs is one thing, but standing there in person and watching it snake endlessly across the ridges in both directions was something else entirely. Parts of the Great Wall date back over 2,000 years, originally built to help defend China’s northern borders, though much of the section we visited was rebuilt during the Ming dynasty. The scale of it all was honestly hard to comprehend.
What made it even more impressive was thinking about how it was actually built. Huge sections were constructed by hand, long before modern machinery or roads existed, with workers hauling stone, bricks and materials up these steep mountain ridges themselves. Standing there looking at the terrain, it honestly felt hard enough just walking it, never mind building the thing. Some of the mountains around Mutianyu rise over 1,000 metres above sea level, which makes the engineering achievement even more incredible when you think about it.
We’d chosen a great time of year to visit as well. The weather was pretty much perfect — warm enough for clear views and sunshine, but not unbearably hot for all the climbing ahead.
Following our guide’s advice, we headed in the direction known for the best scenery. The further we walked, the steeper the wall became. Some sections were incredibly uneven with huge stone steps that seemed built for giants rather than normal humans. One stretch ahead was under repair, and although you could still continue via a small detour, this was the point where Shane’s fear of heights really started kicking in.
To be fair to him, it was seriously high up. On either side of the wall the mountains dropped away dramatically, and the higher we climbed the more exposed it all felt. We eventually made it as far as Watchtower 21 before he decided he couldn’t go any further.
So, deciding it was better to retreat gracefully before he completely froze solid and had to be airlifted off the Great Wall, we sensibly turned around and headed back the way we’d come.
I’d say the Great Wall was the definite highlight of our time in Beijing. It exceeded every expectation we had and then some. I don’t think either of us had pictured scenery quite so magnificent stretching out in every direction around us. We were also glad we’d booked it as a tour. Everything was well organised and informative, taking away any stress about buses, timings and whether we were going the right way — although, in fairness, I’m sure we’d probably have managed it ourselves.
After the two-hour drive back into the city, followed by the metro back to the hotel, we were absolutely done in. The idea of a relaxing evening suddenly sounded very appealing, especially as tomorrow would not only be our final day in Beijing, but also our last day in China.
For our last day, we planned to finally revisit Tiananmen Square properly. This time I got the hotel to help register us and retrieve the barcode needed for entry. We picked an afternoon slot as neither of us fancied yet another painfully early start. Entry began from midday, so after a leisurely morning we jumped on the metro to the nearest station and made our way over. Even then, it still involved quite a bit of walking around to reach the particular entrance point we’d selected.
As you can imagine, security around the area is absolutely massive. The whole place has a very official, diplomatic feel to it, with railings, barriers and checkpoints set up everywhere you turn. We eventually found the correct queue — which, unsurprisingly, was enormous — and slowly shuffled our way through security and bag checks along with everyone else.
The weather had also taken a turn for the worse. Forecasts had promised temperatures in the low twenties, so we’d dressed expecting a fairly mild afternoon. What we hadn’t factored in was the bitter wind cutting straight across the square. By the time we finally got through and entered, we were absolutely frozen.
So, this ended up being more of a whistle-stop visit than originally planned. It was incredibly busy too, with huge crowds all moving steadily through the square in different directions. We grabbed a few photos and followed the flow of people through the vast open space.
Tiananmen Square really is enormous when you stand in the middle of it. Surrounding it are huge buildings like the Great Hall of the People and the National Museum of China, while in the centre stands the Monument to the People’s Heroes. At the far end is the famous Tiananmen Gate with Mao’s huge portrait hanging above it, leading directly through to the Forbidden City behind.
We headed in that direction towards the Forbidden City, but by now it had also started to rain. Not heavy rain, thankfully, but combined with the freezing wind we quickly realised we were very much underdressed for the conditions. Still, we’d seen what we came to see and were happy enough to call it a day and jump on the nearest metro back to the warmth and comfort of the hotel.
So it was our final night in China, still a bit chilly so we dressed a little more appropriately before heading out. We decided to walk back towards the touristy streets. It was busy, but there was one pedestrianised street we really liked — all neon lights, cute little shops and street food stalls, visually colourful in every direction. This time we simply wandered further than we had on previous evenings, stopping here and there for food and drinks before eventually looping back around and calling it a night.
So that was it, our Chinese adventures had come to an end, and what a trip it had been. It felt incredibly varied — lakes, mountains, temples, vibrant high-tech cities, wildlife… I could go on. We’d loved every part of it, and yet we had still only seen a fraction of what this vast country has to offer. Our visa was coming to an end so it was time to leave, but we already knew we would return someday. There is still so much left to explore.
Tomorrow we head back to South Korea. When booking the flights we realised just how close we actually were — the flight from Beijing is only around an hour and a half. Perfect really, because we already have a few new places in mind. New adventures await.
