Tirana
The cross-border bus ride from Ohrid to Tirana was incredibly straightforward. We didn’t even have to get off the minibus at the border checkpoint. The driver collected everyone’s passports, handed them to the border officials, returned them a few minutes later, and we drove straight through.
The journey took around three hours, but it passed quickly. We made one short comfort stop along the way, and once again the scenery was beautiful, making the drive even more enjoyable.
The bus dropped us off at the main bus station on the outskirts of the city centre. As soon as we stepped off, a few people asked where we were heading, offering either a taxi or pointing us towards the local city bus. No one was pushy—it all felt genuinely friendly and helpful.
Before we could go anywhere, though, we needed some cash. We didn’t have any Albanian lek, but fortunately there were several ATMs at the bus station, so it was easy to withdraw some money. We then hopped on the local bus, and around twenty minutes later we were getting off beside Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana.
I’d booked an apartment just a minute’s walk from the bus stop, which was ideal. After a travel day, it’s always a relief not to have to walk far with our bags.
All in all, it ranked as one of the easiest and most hassle-free international bus journeys we’ve ever done.
Tirana was only a short stop for us—just two nights. By the time we’d checked into our apartment it was already afternoon, so we planned to spend the rest of the day having a leisurely mooch around before dedicating the following day to sightseeing. The city centre isn’t particularly large, so we were confident we’d be able to see most of the main attractions in a day.
What we were really looking forward to, though, was finding a good bar showing the football. Later that evening England were playing their third World Cup match. We’d missed the first two because, with the time difference, the kick-offs had been far too late. This one, however, was an early evening game, so the timing couldn’t have been better. Now we just had to hope England would do the business.
A quick Google search pointed me towards a few sports bars in Blloku, Tirana’s trendy and vibrant neighbourhood. It’s known for its tree-lined streets, boutique shops and its huge concentration of cafés, bars and restaurants. Best of all, it was only a 10 to 15-minute walk from Skanderbeg Square, making it the perfect excuse to explore an area that we’d wanted to visit anyway.
On our way to Blloku, we crossed Skanderbeg Square and stopped briefly to take in our first impressions. The square is huge, covering around 40,000 square metres. This car-free pedestrian plaza features a flat pyramid design paved with stones from across Albania, over 100 cooling fountain jets, and the iconic statue of the national hero, Skanderbeg. Surrounding the plaza are major cultural and historical landmarks like the National History Museum and the Et’hem Bey Mosque, but we didn’t linger, knowing we’d be returning the following day to explore it properly. It was just nice to see the place.
Our first impressions of Tirana were very positive. I didn’t really know what to expect from Albania’s capital city, but you could see, especially around the square, that it’s a mix of the old and the new, with modern buildings and sculptures standing alongside relics from its Ottoman, Italian and communist past.
The streets of Blloku were just as we’d read—leafy, tree-lined and packed with inviting cafés. We were certainly grateful for the shade, as the temperatures were soaring and, even in the late afternoon, it was still incredibly hot.
We wandered along a few streets, soaking up the atmosphere before finding the sports bar we’d picked out for the match. It couldn’t have been a more perfect choice. With its large open-air terrace and several outdoor TVs, we found a great seat and settled in to watch the game.
There was a brilliant atmosphere, with plenty of England supporters adding to the occasion. It wasn’t the most exciting first half, and after going 1–0 down things weren’t looking too promising. Thankfully, England turned the game around in the second half and went on to win. The place erupted when the final whistle blew—it was fantastic.
It was the perfect way to end our first day in Tirana.
The following day, we headed back to the square, this time taking the opportunity to wander, reflect, and take plenty of photographs. It wasn’t until I photographed one of the modern buildings that I realised it was shaped like a head—what an unusual and striking design. The opera house also features a long mural along its exterior, although unfortunately it was undergoing restoration work during our visit.
We then headed over to the Clock Tower, a cultural monument that has been keeping time in Tirana since 1822. It stands beside the Et’hem Bey Mosque, both commissioned by the same man. As we walked towards the mosque, we noticed a large crowd and a heavy police presence. It soon became clear that a protest was taking place, so we decided to briskly walk past rather than hang around in case the situation became disorderly. Unfortunately, the demonstrations meant several areas we had hoped to explore had been cordoned off, so we had no choice but to give them a miss.
Instead, we made our way to the Pyramid of Tirana. Originally built in 1988 as a museum dedicated to dictator Enver Hoxha, it has since been transformed into a vibrant technology and cultural hub, complete with sloping, climbable steps and colourful rooftop cafés.
I decided to climb to the top, where I was rewarded with spectacular 360-degree views across the city and the surrounding mountains. Shane, meanwhile, opted to relax on a bench in the shade while I took in the scenery.
Our next stop was Mother Teresa Square, the second-largest square in Tirana. A long, tree-lined boulevard stretches all the way from Skanderbeg Square, making for a pleasant walk between the two landmarks.
Today, many of the grand buildings surrounding the square are home to universities and government institutions. Although it was fairly quiet during our visit, we read that the square plays an important role in everyday student life and regularly hosts public gatherings, cultural events and national ceremonies.
Heading back down the avenue, we came across some quirky art installations on one of the bridges. A series of colourful statues, each made from differently coloured blocks, lined the bridge, adding a fun splash of creativity to our walk and making for an unexpected photo stop.
A little further along, we arrived at Bunk’Art 2, a museum that offers a stark reminder of Albania’s dark communist past. Housed in a large underground bunker, it was originally built under Enver Hoxha as a nuclear shelter for senior government officials.
Today, it has been turned into a museum exploring life under communist rule, with a focus on the Sigurimi, Albania’s feared secret police, and the impact they had on everyday life.
Leaving the museum, we noticed that the buildings lining the adjacent boulevard were painted in bright pastel colours, a signature feature of Tirana’s urban transformation. The initiative was introduced to breathe new life into the city’s drab Soviet-era apartment blocks, replacing grey concrete facades with colourful artwork that has since become one of Tirana’s most recognisable characteristics.
A little further on was Tirana Castle. Although no longer a traditional castle, this historic area is now home to beautifully restored buildings, boutique shops, artisan stores and open-air cafés. Unfortunately, the entire area had been cordoned off because of the protests, so we had to give it a miss.
This brought us back to Skanderbeg Square, and by this point we’d seen most of Tirana’s main sights, so we didn’t feel we needed any more time in the city. However, just a short stroll away was the New Bazaar, which we’d read was well worth a visit. Recently redeveloped into a vibrant pedestrian area, it’s filled with colourful buildings, bustling market stalls, cafés, restaurants and bars. It quickly became one of our favourite parts of the city.
By mid-afternoon the heat was becoming intense, so the New Bazaar was the perfect place to stop for a cold drink, relax in the shade and simply watch the world go by for an hour or so.
With another travel day ahead, we were more than happy to spend a quiet evening relaxing after the excitement of the previous night’s football. We settled in to watch a film before getting an early night, as we had a 7 a.m. bus to catch the following morning.
Our next destination was Berat, around 70 kilometres south of Tirana in central Albania. With a history stretching back more than 2,400 years, it is best known as the “City of a Thousand Windows” and is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Renowned for its beautifully preserved Ottoman-era architecture, whitewashed hillside houses and impressive hilltop castle, everything we’d read suggested Berat would be one of the highlights of our time in Albania, and we couldn’t wait to see if it lived up to the hype.
Berat
The bus to Berat was an early one, departing at 7:00 a.m. We’d booked it because the pick-up point was supposedly just a two-minute walk from our apartment, outside a large hotel near Skanderbeg Square. Even so, it felt a little vague, and as we sat waiting in the quiet morning we couldn’t help wondering whether a bus would actually turn up.
At around 6:45 a.m., a man approached us and simply said, “Berat?” We nodded, showed him our ticket, and he checked his schedule. Strangely, our names weren’t on it. After a few minutes of confusion, he told us to follow him up to the main road where a coach was waiting. He assured us it was still operated by Albania Bus, the company we’d booked with, and told us to climb aboard.
So, with a small leap of faith, we set off for Berat—on the right bus… or so we hoped.
The journey took just under three hours, winding south through the Albanian countryside before stopping to pick up a few more passengers. It was at this point that it became clear this wasn’t just a regular coach service—it was actually a day tour heading to Berat.
A few minutes later, a cheerful guy came down the aisle and announced that he’d be our tour guide for the day. We just looked at him blankly, exchanged a quick glance, and nodded politely. Neither of us had the heart to explain that we weren’t actually part of the tour. We’d simply ended up on the coach by chance. Still, as long as it got us to Berat, we were happy to go along with it… for now.
When we arrived at Berat Castle, the first stop on the tour, the driver came over to us and told us to stay on the coach. Instead of joining the group, he’d take us down into the centre of town. Phew! For a moment we thought we were going to have to tag along with the tour and explore the castle there and then. That wouldn’t have been the worst thing in the world, but we’d been looking forward to discovering it at our own pace rather than following a guide.
A few minutes later, he dropped us at the bottom of the hillside in the town centre, and we thanked him before making our way to our hotel. It was a slightly unconventional start to our time in Berat, but somehow we’d ended up exactly where we needed to be.
Our first impressions of Berat were very positive. The old town stretched up the hillside, with the castle perched proudly at the top, watching over everything below. It was easy to see why it’s known as one of Albania’s most beautiful towns.
Thankfully, our hotel was at the bottom of the hill. Lugging heavy backpacks uphill in the middle of summer is nobody’s idea of fun, so it’s always something I take into consideration when booking accommodation. After a long journey, knowing we didn’t have to tackle a steep climb before checking in was a welcome relief.
After checking in, we headed straight back out to get our bearings and have a proper look around. We immediately noticed the jump in temperature—it was seriously hot. Even the short walk had us searching for patches of shade wherever we could find them.
We wandered towards the old town, first coming across Sarajet e Vrionasve, an old Ottoman-era residential complex that once belonged to the influential Vrioni family. Although only parts of the complex remain today, it was a nice surprise to stumble across something like this as we explored.
We continued into the winding, narrow streets, which were certainly picturesque, but we soon realised much of this area was residential. We kept finding ourselves at dead ends or standing outside someone’s garden gate, so we decided to abandon our accidental maze and make our way back down towards the river instead.
That turned out to be a great decision. Running alongside the riverside was a lively pedestrian street lined with bars, cafés and restaurants. This felt like Berat’s more modern side, and despite it only being in the afternoon, the place was already buzzing with people. We could easily imagine it becoming even more vibrant once the sun went down.
By now we were hungry, having not eaten since leaving Tirana that morning, so we were more than happy to stop at one of the cafés for some lunch and get out of the heat for a while. A cold drink and a bit of shade were definitely needed.
Afterwards, we walked up to the suspension bridge, which crosses the Osum River over to the Gorica neighbourhood on the other side. It looked just as picturesque as the old town, with its stone houses and quiet streets, and the views back across the river towards Berat were really nice.
There were still a few hotels and restaurants tucked away amongst the narrow streets, with tables and chairs set up beneath the shade of grapevines overhead. We’d noticed there were grapevines everywhere in Berat, and they really added to the atmosphere.
It wasn’t long before we stopped for another drink. Days like this are some of our favourites—no real plans, just wandering wherever the streets take us and stopping whenever we fancy. It was the perfect way to get a feel for the town.
We headed back to the hotel for a while to relax and get showered before going back out for dinner. We were looking forward to seeing what the pedestrian street was like in the evening.
Just as we’d expected, it was much busier. Families and groups of friends were out enjoying the warm evening, strolling up and down deciding where to eat, with plenty of restaurants to choose from. As it was during the World Cup, almost every bar and restaurant had a TV set up on its terrace, so you definitely wouldn’t struggle to find somewhere to watch a match.
We found a place that looked good and grabbed a table outside. It was a great spot for a bit of people-watching while enjoying our dinner, and the perfect way to end our first day in Berat.
The next day we decided to walk up to the castle. We set off early, hoping to avoid the worst of the heat while tackling the steep climb. There is a bus you can take up there, but we do enjoy the exercise—even if this particular walk was a bit of a challenge.
There was one thin strip of shade along one side of the road, so we stuck to that as we made our way up, taking plenty of breaks along the way. Each stop gave us another excuse to turn around and admire the views, which just kept getting better the higher we climbed.
It honestly wasn’t as bad as we’d imagined, and before long we reached the top. We found a shady spot to sit down, catch our breath and cool off for a while before exploring the castle.
Once we passed through the entrance of the castle, it wasn’t what we’d imagined at all. I had pictured paying an entrance fee and walking around the remains of an old fortress, but instead we discovered something completely different—a living town inside the castle walls.
There were narrow cobbled streets, shops, cafés, restaurants and even hotels tucked amongst the ancient stone buildings. It was amazing and nothing like we had expected. This ancient hilltop fortress, with roots dating back over 2,000 years, overlooks the city and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It still functions as a living neighbourhood, with around 100 families continuing to live within its historic walls.
We loved wandering through the streets, never quite knowing what we would find around the next corner. There were ancient churches, museums and mosques dotted throughout the castle walls, each adding to the character of the place.
The Holy Trinity Church was a highlight—a beautiful 13th-century Byzantine church built into the hillside. We’d spotted it from the town below, so it was great to finally see it up close. We also came across the remains of the Red Mosque, with its striking red-brick minaret still standing.
I didn’t want our exploring to end. The little things really added to the atmosphere, like locals selling homemade jams and honey from small tables outside their homes, sitting in the shade beneath grapevines, and shops displaying colourful rugs. It was such a pretty place to just wander around and take it all in.
Then there was the viewing platform, with incredible views over the town below and the mountains stretching out into the distance. From here you could see the river winding through Berat and across to Gorica on the other side.
I didn’t stay up there for too long though, as even for me it felt a little too high! Shane, of course, had sent me ahead to get the photos—far too scary for him.
The nice thing about being so high up was the breeze, it actually felt much cooler while we were up there. It was a welcome break from the heat below.
By the time we made it back down the hill, the breeze had disappeared and we were back in the stifling heat. Even the short walk back to the hotel felt hard work in the sun and it really took it out of us. We were more than ready to get inside, cool down and relax for a while.
Another highlight of our stay was the hotel breakfast. We don’t usually bother with breakfast, but when I was booking this hotel, the reviews kept mentioning the amazing breakfast served on the rooftop restaurant overlooking the old town. That was enough to convince me, and it definitely lived up to the expectations.
We were served a colourful selection of fresh fruit, vegetables, cheese, olives and bread, followed by a basket of warm Petulla—an Albanian fried dough similar to a doughnut—served with local fig and apricot jams. The food was delicious, but the view made it even better, looking out over Berat while starting the day.
What a way to begin the morning. I’ll definitely be adding my own 5-star review!
We were only in Berat for a few days, so today was our last day. We decided to spend it exploring Mangalem.
Mangalem is the famous UNESCO-listed Ottoman quarter of Berat, known as the “City of a Thousand Windows”. The white stone houses with their terracotta roofs are built up the hillside beneath the castle, creating the iconic view that Berat is known for.
This town just kept on giving. We loved wandering through the narrow cobbled streets, with traditional wooden balconies and old houses around every corner. Like we’d seen at the castle, locals had little stalls outside their homes selling honey and jams, and there were lovely guesthouses and restaurants tucked away amongst the streets.
As we climbed higher, the views opened up across the river towards Gorica, giving us another beautiful view of the town.
It’s easy to see where Berat got its nickname from. The Ottoman houses are built so close together on the hillside that the rows of windows appear stacked on top of each other, creating the famous “thousand windows” effect.
Later that evening, we walked back towards the suspension bridge and crossed over to Gorica, as we hadn’t seen this side of town at night. It was lovely seeing the bridge lit up and the lights glowing from the windows of Mangalem across the river.
Gorica had a lovely atmosphere in the evening too, with its charming restaurants and quiet streets. We had a wander through the narrow lanes before heading down towards the old Gorica Bridge further along the river.
It was a really nice evening walk, followed by a wonderful dinner at a rooftop restaurant in Mangalem. I couldn’t have asked for a better way to end our time in Berat.
Next, we moved on to Gjirokaster, another major UNESCO World Heritage town in Albania. It sits further south, so it sounded like the perfect next stop as we continued our way towards the coast.
Gjirokastër
The bus from Berat to Gjirokastër was easy enough. We took the city bus to the main bus terminal, and as soon as we got off we could see the small minibuses lined up with destinations displayed on cards in the windows.
We were a little early, and it seemed the buses worked on a loose schedule—they would wait until they were full before setting off. Once enough passengers had arrived, we were on our way. The journey took around three hours, dropping us at the terminal on the main road through the newer part of Gjirokastër.
From there, we decided to take a city bus up to the old town where we were staying, as it was all uphill. We waited at the bus stop for around half an hour with no sign of one arriving, so we decided we’d just start walking and take our time. We figured we could probably have been at the apartment by now.
Of course, just as we picked up our bags to leave, the bus appeared.
What I realised pretty quickly though was that this wasn’t going the way I expected. Instead of turning towards where we were staying, it carried on before climbing higher up the hillside. The higher we climbed, the more the views opened up, and we could see the castle coming into view above the town. Like Berat, Gjirokastër’s castle sits high above everything.
I was still hoping the bus was going to do a big loop and bring us back around to where we needed to be, but unfortunately there was no such luck. We couldn’t have gone much higher when the driver announced this was the end of the line.
Yes, we had royally messed up this time.
I showed the driver where we wanted to go, and he simply said, “You can walk.” A quick Google search told us it was around a 25-minute walk, so it wasn’t the end of the world. At least, we thought, it would mostly be downhill.
What we didn’t realise was that the first section involved a very steep climb before we would eventually head back down towards the castle. I honestly don’t know where we found the strength to do it. We just kept stopping for rests, trying to catch our breath.
To make things even harder, it was all cobbled streets. I have a trolley for my rucksack, and the constant bouncing over the uneven stones soon took its toll. Later, we realised I’d actually lost a tyre from one of the wheels—it was barely holding together. Please don’t break now, we thought. That would be a nightmare.
After a few more ups and downs, and one wrong turn adding even more time onto the walk, we finally saw the old town come into view. I could have cheered when we made it. That was some hard going, especially for Shane carrying his heavy bags.
The struggle was soon forgotten though as we walked along the cobbled streets of the old town. This place was stunning. We both looked at each other and said that, from what we’d seen so far, Gjirokastër might even have the edge over Berat.
We were staying in an apartment just off Çerçiz Topulli Square, the historic town square that leads up towards the old bazaar we’d just walked through. It was a great location.
The pedestrianised square had been transformed for the World Cup, with a huge screen set up to show the matches, rows of benches for people to sit on, and pop-up food and drink stalls along one side. How great is that? Another big tick for Gjirokastër.
Add to that the stunning surroundings, with the mountains glowing in the evening sun, and it’s safe to say we were pretty impressed with our new surroundings.
Our apartment was one of the prettiest places we’d stayed in for a while. The interior had whitewashed walls on one side and exposed stone walls on the other, with lots of windows opening up to views over the town and mountains beyond.
It was simple but beautiful, and the views made it feel even more special. We couldn’t have asked for a better place to stay.
We’d most definitely earned our dinner that evening, so we didn’t hang around. After a quick freshen up, we were soon back out in search of a cosy bar and restaurant.
As daylight faded, it somehow made the town even more beautiful. The cobbled streets with their black and white diamond patterns, fairy lights strung overhead, and tables and chairs spilling out into the streets created such a lovely atmosphere. The restaurants and bars were already busy, with people dining, chatting and enjoying the evening.
It was exactly the kind of place you want to wander around slowly, taking it all in.
We had a good night’s sleep and had completely recovered from yesterday’s ordeal, so today we decided to walk back up to the castle. That’s the thing with these beautiful hillside towns—as stunning as they are, there’s no escaping the hills. At least today we didn’t have heavy bags to carry.
The streets felt quite different during the day. The tables and chairs from the previous evening had been neatly stacked outside the restaurants, waiting to be brought back out later when the streets would come alive again. It was still just as charming though, with little boutiques, souvenir shops and bakeries selling pastries and other tempting treats.
We decided we’d stop and sample some of those later, but first we wanted to make our way up to the castle.
Unlike Berat Castle, this was on a much grander scale. This massive 12th-century hilltop fortress towers 336 metres above the city, making it one of the largest citadels in the Balkans. Visible from almost anywhere in the valley, this UNESCO World Heritage Site has served many purposes over the centuries, including a royal residence, military stronghold and prison.
Upon entering the castle, you first walk through a vast, dimly lit stone tunnel lined with captured artillery pieces and tanks used during World War II. As you step outside onto the ramparts, you’re greeted with incredible views across the city and the surrounding valley.
In one corner sits a captured US Air Force plane from the Cold War era, displayed by the former communist regime as a symbol against the West. It was a strange but fascinating thing to see sitting within such an ancient fortress.
The castle is enormous, opening out into a huge courtyard with plenty to explore. One of the highlights is the iconic Clock Tower, added in the 19th century on the castle’s outer edge, offering panoramic views across the Drino Valley.
We also visited the old prison, built in 1932 during the reign of King Zog. The castle’s dark underground cells were later used extensively for political prisoners during the communist era. It must have been a horrific place. Reached through a small tunnel, it was so dark inside that I had to use my torch just to see where I was going.
Happy we’d explored the castle, we followed a road that climbed even higher towards what looked like a small village above the fortress. We spotted a few tourist signs along the way, one pointing to the Ali Pasha Bridge. It sounded interesting, so we decided to follow it.
The road just kept climbing, getting steeper and steeper. In places, I was even thinking about how we were going to get back down. I honestly don’t know how people drive their cars up some of these roads.
There didn’t seem to be any let-up, and when we checked the map it still said another mile to go.
“Sod that,” we both said.
We’d done enough “heart-rate hills”, as we like to call them, over the last couple of days, so we turned around and headed back down instead.
Back near the castle, Shane said, “I wonder if, retracing our steps from yesterday, we might find your trolley tyre.”
It was worth a quick look, so we followed the path back around the castle. Lo and behold, about halfway round, there it was! I couldn’t believe we’d actually found it.
That gave Shane another little repair job for later on, but at least the trolley had a fighting chance of surviving the rest of the trip.
We were starving by then, so once we were back in town we found a lovely little restaurant for a late lunch before heading back to the apartment for a rest.
The evenings here were lovely. The streets were beautiful anyway, but once it got dark and all the fairy lights came on, they felt even more special. It didn’t get dark until quite late, but it was well worth staying out for.
The scenery surrounding the town was amazing, with mountains in every direction. Lots of the restaurants had rooftop terraces looking up towards the castle and across to the hills beyond, making it hard to choose where to eat.
We chose well while we were here, sampling a few more traditional dishes, and everything was very reasonably priced.
We were only here for a couple of days, but like Berat, Gjirokastër isn’t a huge place and can easily be explored in a day. As we’re now getting closer to the coast, lots of people visit Gjirokastër as a day trip from resorts like Sarandë and Ksamil, as it’s only around an hour or so away.
We’re lucky that we have time on our side, so we can travel at a slower pace. There’s nothing worse than rushing from one place to the next.
So, on our last day, we spent our time wandering around the old bazaar, making sure we hadn’t missed anything, before enjoying a relaxing afternoon back at the apartment sorting through photos and catching up on some writing.
We had one more evening to enjoy the atmosphere of this beautiful town before moving on the next day. We were taking the bus again from the main terminal in the newer part of town, but this time we decided we’d walk there—it was all downhill after all. We were just hoping my trolley would survive the journey with its repaired tyre!
Next stop, Sarandë on the coast—woo hoo! After the rising temperatures over the last few days, we were really looking forward to finally getting in the sea.
Sarandë sounded like the perfect first base. This vibrant town sits on the Albanian Riviera, overlooking the Ionian Sea directly across from the Greek island of Corfu. It sounded just what we were ready for.
Sarande & Ksamil
We decided to walk to the bus terminal in Gjirokaster since we’d never quite figured out the city bus system. Rather than risk getting lost or missing our bus, we gave ourselves plenty of time. It was about a half-hour walk, thankfully mostly downhill, although the cobbled streets had me silently praying that my bag trolley would survive after losing a wheel the other day.
Everything was going smoothly until we were about three-quarters of the way there… then bang — the wheel fell off again.
God damn it.
Thankfully, Shane sprang into action and managed to secure it using a clip from his bag. We just about made it to the bus station before it gave up once more. Not to be defeated, Shane spotted a piece of wire lying by the roadside and somehow managed an even better repair. Although I’m not sure how many more lives this poor trolley has left.
We waited around twenty minutes before setting off. The journey took about an hour and a half and was probably the most scenic bus ride we’d had so far. We wound our way up and over the mountains, following endless twisting roads with breathtaking views. There were a few sections with sheer drops that Shane couldn’t bring himself to look at!
Like most towns, the bus dropped us off at the main terminal just outside the centre, so we had to hop on a city bus to get closer to our hotel.
From there, it was only a 10-minute walk to our hotel. By the time we finally checked in, though, it still felt like we’d done a full workout.
This time, we were staying in a hotel perched a little higher up the hill, but it was still only a 10 to 15-minute walk down to the seafront.
After settling in and catching our breath, we headed straight out to see the sea.
Sarandë sits on a beautiful horseshoe-shaped bay, nestled between the mountains and the sparkling Ionian Sea in southern Albania, directly across from the Greek island of Corfu. It seemed like the perfect base for a few days, with plenty of nearby beaches to explore. As we both enjoy walking, we planned to do as much as possible on foot.
Many people reach this part of Albania via Corfu, as the country’s only major commercial airport is in the capital, Tirana. Flying into Corfu Airport and taking the 30 to 60-minute ferry to Sarandë is often a much faster and more convenient way to get here.
Just ten minutes after leaving our apartment, we reached the waterfront, and we were immediately impressed. Lined with palm trees, it had a wonderfully relaxed holiday atmosphere, with bars, restaurants, and shops selling everything you could need for a day at the beach, from inflatables to sun hats. We hadn’t experienced those classic seaside holiday vibes for quite some time.
The town beach, although pebbly, was busy with people swimming, sunbathing, and enjoying the sunshine. I’d read beforehand that Sarandë’s main beach wasn’t considered the best, especially compared with the famous turquoise waters around Ksamil, but I honestly thought it looked lovely. The sea was crystal clear, inviting, and every bit as tempting as we’d hoped.
As we continued along the waterfront, we passed several people offering boat trips to nearby beaches and hidden coves. The whole area was buzzing with life. It was certainly busy, but we’d expected that — it was the height of the summer season after all.
We walked all the way around the bay to the far end before turning back. Earlier, we’d spotted what looked like the perfect place for a swim, so we were eager to return — the sea had been calling us ever since we arrived.
Along the way, we’d also passed an enormous screen set up for football, complete with tables, chairs, and beanbags right on the seafront. It looked like the ideal place to watch the upcoming England match.
The sea was just as refreshing as it looked when we finally got in. It was quite pebbly getting in, but my beach shoes made it much easier. Once we were in, we spent ages just floating around and cooling off. It was so relaxing, and exactly what we’d needed after our walk.
There seemed to be endless places to eat, from fast-food joints selling kebabs and pizza to stylish Mediterranean restaurants that looked really tempting. As we hadn’t eaten yet, we found somewhere in between and enjoyed a delicious lunch of local food.
At least all the hills around here would keep us fit as we headed back up to the apartment. A couple of hours later, we’d be walking back down again to see what Sarandë was like by night.
Sarandë by night was lovely. The waterfront was busy with people strolling up and down, making it a great spot for a bit of people-watching. One place had laid out mats along the wall with lanterns dotted around, creating a lovely setting to watch the sunset.
We didn’t go for romance though. Instead, we ended up in the Elvis Bar for a little more entertainment… and a little more action.
Yes, that was a terrible joke, I know!
But it was the perfect way to end our first day in Sarandë.
The next day, we headed in the opposite direction towards Mucobega Beach, around the headland. Rather than following the coast straight away, we took a shortcut inland to save a bit of time, planning to return along the coastline later.
The beaches looked lovely in the photos, although we weren’t sure how many were actually public. That’s the trouble around here — many of the small bays have been taken over by beach restaurants and clubs, leaving little, if any, space for everyone else.
We’d read that the Albanian government had introduced a rule requiring 30% of every kilometre of coastline to remain free public beach, so in theory there should be around 300 metres in every kilometre open to everyone. We’d soon find out.
Either way, we were looking forward to the walk.
Thankfully, there was a bit of a breeze, and with the road being slightly elevated, we had some lovely views along the coast and across to Corfu. We eventually headed down a steep lane to the beach, where we were met by a beautiful bay with the bluest sea.
There was a sign listing the daily prices for sunbeds and a parasol — which are really expensive at this time of year — and the beach was packed. I think we could have found somewhere to put our towels, but as nice as it looked, it was just too busy, so we decided to carry on around the headland.
It was a bit of a slog, as the path was constantly up and down. We dropped down to another beach, only to find signs saying it was private. After taking a few photos, we decided to head back along the coastal road instead, as I’d spotted several places on the map marked as public beaches.
We’d already had a good walk and got plenty of steps in, so all we wanted now was somewhere to swim and relax.
The public beach we eventually found was literally just a small stretch squeezed between two sections occupied by luxury hotels, complete with their sunbeds and day beds. Plenty of other people had already claimed a spot, but we managed to find enough space to put our towels before heading straight into the sea.
It was gorgeous — crystal clear, a brilliant shade of blue, and much less rocky than the previous beaches, making it far easier to get in and out.
Being in Sarandë felt much more like a proper holiday. There is plenty of history around, from the ruins of the 5th-century basilica in the town to the hilltop Lëkurësi Castle overlooking everything, but this time we weren’t here to explore every sight.
We were here to slow down, relax, and enjoy the seaside.
We were only here for a short while, so on the other days we walked further out along the road towards Ksamil, where we found little pockets of public beach. They weren’t anything fancy, but they did the job, and we were able to stop for a swim and cool off.
The evenings were lovely too. We managed to watch the football, although not at the big fan zone we’d spotted earlier. We walked over to have a look, but it was absolutely packed and a bit too rowdy for us — no thank you!
Instead, we headed back to Elvis’s place and watched it there. It was another win, which made for a great atmosphere and gave us something else to look forward to as we were heading to Ksamil next.
We took the bus that runs frequently from Sarandë to Ksamil, picking it up from the stop down by the port that we’d spotted earlier. We were lucky enough to get seats, which was a bonus, especially with our heavy bags in tow. I think it helped that this was one of the first stops on the route.
A few stops later, the bus was completely packed, with the conductor squeezing people further down the aisle to make room for more passengers. It was full of day trippers heading out to the different beaches along this stretch of coastline.
I’d read the journey should take around 30 minutes, but with the roads being so busy, it ended up taking nearly an hour. Thank goodness we had those seats!
When we got off the bus, it was only a five-minute walk to our apartment. We were a little early, but when we arrived, the lovely lady showed us straight to our room and it was perfect.
It was actually a little self-contained bungalow tucked away in the gardens of the family’s guesthouse. We had a shaded porch with a comfy sofa, surrounded by olive and lemon trees. The lady told us to help ourselves to the lemons, and the trees were absolutely bursting with ripe fruit.
We were already loving it!
Inside, there was a small kitchen area and everything we needed for our stay. It felt like a little home away from home, which is exactly what we always enjoy when travelling.
We’d stock up on supplies later, as while we were here, I’d be doing the cooking. I’d actually missed it — cooking is something I really enjoy.
Before that, we wanted to head out and explore the beaches. Looking at the map, Ksamil has a series of little bays, and one that immediately caught my eye was Bora Bora.
Maybe it was just the name, but it sounded like paradise.
The hills were back again as we made our way down the steep road towards the beach. I definitely wasn’t looking forward to that climb back up, but thankfully we’d already spotted another route to avoid it.
Bora Bora Beach was every bit as stunning as we’d imagined. I don’t think I’d seen the sea that blue in a very long time. The white sandy beach and crystal-clear turquoise water were incredible, and it’s easy to see why it’s often called the “Maldives of Europe”.
With four small islands just offshore that you can swim or kayak to, it really does have that tropical feel.
The only problem was there was absolutely no space.
The small bay was completely taken over by sunbeds, packed tightly together, with nowhere to even put a towel down on the fine sand. Here they were charging a whopping €35 for two sunbeds. They must be making a fortune, and clearly people were happy to pay it while on holiday — they were even turning people away.
We took a few photos and continued along the road to the next bay, but it was much the same story. The beaches were beautiful, but incredibly busy.
Above the beaches, though, there were some gorgeous restaurants and beach clubs, with some really stylish, upmarket places. It was lovely to see, just perhaps not quite the relaxing beach experience we were looking for during the height of the season.
As amazing as this place is, I’d skip the peak of July and August if we returned. It deserves to be enjoyed at a slower pace. June, September, or even early October sound like they’d be perfect.
By evening, Ksamil is the perfect place to watch the sunset, especially as the sun slips behind the twin islands. Although busy with people strolling, enjoying an ice cream, or settling in for dinner, the atmosphere remains relaxed.
We found one street you could probably call the bar street — a pedestrianised road lined with quirky bars and restaurants — but for the most part, places are spread around the coves, so there’s definitely no shortage of places to eat and drink.
There are also quite a few pop-up bars and food stalls operating from converted campervans, something you seem to see everywhere these days.
The beach clubs transition from daytime sunbathing to an evening of ambient music, lounge beats, and sunset cocktails overlooking the Ionian Sea. Many host DJ sets, and from the hill above you can see beams of light sweeping across the sky.
Looking over from Corfu, just across the sea, people must wonder what on earth is happening over there. In reality, it’s probably more lights than action, as Ksamil seems to wind down after midnight.
Determined to get a swim whilst here, we decided to walk a little further to one of the coves in the quieter part of town — well, none of it was really quiet, but it was worth a shot.
We found one bay that was still dominated by a beach club, but there was a small corner with a bit of free space. We didn’t even want to sunbathe; we just wanted to get in the sea and have somewhere to dry off.
It ended up being perfect.
The sea was so refreshing, and the added bonus was that it was a sandy beach, so no swim shoes were needed. We stayed in the water for well over an hour — it was gorgeous.
At least we got our swim.
We couldn’t have left Ksamil without getting into the water.
That evening, England were playing in the World Cup semi-final. We found a small local place not too far from our apartment to watch the match and sadly saw them go out.
It was the end of the road for the team, and also the end of our time in Ksamil — but not the end of our journey through Albania.
Next, we headed north along the coast to the town of Vlorë.
We had wanted to visit Himarë, but being peak season, prices had sky-rocketed and were well above our budget. Instead, we managed to find a place in Vlorë, which from everything we’d read still sounded like a great place to visit.
Vlorë
The journey from Ksamil to Vlorë turned out to be the most scenic bus ride we’ve had in Albania so far. We first had to catch a bus back to Sarandë, as that’s where all the regional buses depart from.
From there, the route hugged the coastline high above the sea, winding its way through the mountains. Around every bend there were spectacular views – the sparkling Ionian Sea on one side and dramatic mountain ranges on the other.
Along the way we passed through Himarë and Dhërmi, two places we’d originally hoped to stay. Unfortunately, with it being peak season and accommodation options limited, the prices were well beyond our budget. Still, it was great to finally catch a glimpse of them, and from what we saw, they certainly lived up to their reputation.
By the afternoon, we arrived in Vlorë, Albania’s third-largest city, located where the Adriatic and Ionian Seas meet. The city sits on a crescent-shaped bay, framed by the Ceraunian Mountains and looking out towards Sazan Island.
From what we’d read beforehand, we weren’t expecting Vlorë to be Albania’s most beautiful seaside destination. For us, it was more of a convenient stop to break up the journey as we continued north towards the Montenegrin border.
That said, first impressions were promising. The city had a lively waterfront promenade lined with cafés and restaurants, with plenty of access to the beach. It certainly looked like it would be a pleasant place to spend a few days before continuing our adventure.
Once again, we’d booked ourselves an apartment. It’s always nice to have a few home comforts – a kitchen, a washing machine, and a balcony to relax on. We figured that even if Vlorë didn’t have loads to offer, at least we’d have a comfortable place to unwind.
From where the bus dropped us off, it was about a 15-minute walk to the apartment. Normally that wouldn’t have been a problem, but the temperatures had climbed back into the mid-30s, making the walk feel much longer. Thankfully, much of the avenue was lined with trees, providing some welcome shade along the way.
The apartment was in a residential block but in an ideal location, roughly halfway between the seafront and the old town, both of which we’d be exploring over the next few days.
On the way to the apartment, we stopped to pick up a few essentials. To our amazement, we actually found some black tea! We’d run out a few weeks earlier and, for love nor money, couldn’t find a box of ordinary black tea anywhere. Bazaars, supermarkets, convenience stores… nothing. Albania is definitely a coffee-loving country.
Naturally, the first thing we did after settling into the apartment was put the kettle on for a long-awaited cuppa. Sadly, our excitement was short-lived — the tea was not great!
Thankfully, I’d picked a few lemons from the tree at our last apartment, so it was back to lemon water instead. To be fair, I’d actually started to really enjoy it by then, so it wasn’t much of a hardship after all. Good job!
Feeling refreshed, we headed back out, walking down the tree-lined avenue towards the seafront. One thing we’d already noticed about Vlorë was the sheer number of supermarkets. There seemed to be one every few hundred metres — far more than we’d seen in any other town or city in Albania.
The palm-lined promenade is well laid out, with several separate paths, including wide pedestrian walkways and a dedicated cycle lane. Cafés, bars, and restaurants line the promenade, sitting beneath rows of modern apartment blocks and hotels.
There’s nothing particularly historic about this part of the city. Instead, it has the feel of a purpose-built seaside resort, designed with tourism in mind rather than preserving old architecture.
The beach itself is long and sandy, a change from many of the pebble beaches we’d visited further south. The sea may not have the dazzling turquoise colour of Ksamil, but it still looked incredibly inviting. With temperatures climbing well into the 30s again, we knew we’d definitely be taking a dip while we were here.
After cooking for ourselves in the last apartment, we were more than happy to eat out. With so many restaurants lining the promenade, we were spoiled for choice. In the end, we picked one that looked as good as any, and kebabs and pizza were the order of the day. They were absolutely delicious and exactly what we’d been craving.
After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the waterfront, stopping for a couple of drinks as the evening rolled on. It was the perfect way to end our first day in Vlorë before heading back to the apartment.
Even at 9pm, the temperature was still reading a sweltering 31°C. Phew! It was hard to believe the sun had been down for a while, but it was still so warm.
The next day, we had no real plans other than to head back to the promenade and walk to the far end of the bay. It was a leisurely stroll, giving us the chance to take in more of Vlorë’s seafront before making our way back.
On the return, we found a public section of the beach and decided it was the perfect place to spend a few hours relaxing and cooling off with a swim. Like many of Albania’s seaside resorts, much of the beachfront is occupied by beach bars offering sunbeds and parasols for hire. As we weren’t planning to spend the whole day sunbathing, we didn’t see the point in paying, and were more than happy to throw our towels down on the sand instead.
As soon as we found a spot, we headed straight into the sea. To our surprise, it was like stepping into a warm bath! We’d noticed people standing a long way out, and as the water didn’t appear to get deep very quickly, we guessed this might be why. It wasn’t the refreshing shock you sometimes get from the sea, but it was still lovely to cool off after being out in the heat.
I wandered a little further out, but the depth didn’t seem to change much, so in the end we just happily wallowed around in the shallow water. It wasn’t quite the invigorating swim we’d imagined, but with temperatures soaring into the 30s, it was exactly what we needed.
We spent ages in the sea, however, we didn’t spent too long back on the sand. Without any shade, it was just too hot and we were literally baking. The upside was that we dried off in no time before heading back to the apartment.
We finished the day by cooking dinner at home and settling down with a good movie. It had been a lovely, relaxed day — nothing too exciting, just a simple day of sunshine, swimming, and enjoying having a comfortable base to come back to.
We only had one more day left in Vlorë, and we decided not to make another trip back to the beach. Instead, we enjoyed a quiet morning at the apartment, popping out later to pick up a few things for lunch. Then, in the late afternoon, when the temperatures had started to ease a little, we set off to explore the old town.
It took around 30 minutes to walk there, and it was a straightforward route — following the tree-lined avenue, but this time heading north away from the seafront.
We knew we were getting close when we spotted an old-looking mosque ahead. This was the Muradie Mosque, dating back to the 16th century. Unfortunately, it was currently undergoing restoration and surrounded by boarding, so we couldn’t get a proper photo of it, which was a shame as it looked like a beautiful building.
A little further on, we came to a small park and square where the large Independence Monument stood proudly. It looked as though this was where they’d screened the World Cup, as the area was still busy with workers dismantling stands and clearing everything away.
The old town streets were only a short walk from here, and what we found was actually rather lovely. The main pedestrian street was lined with colourful old buildings, now home to boutique shops, cafés, and restaurants. Overhead, bunting decorated with paper butterflies and flowers added an extra touch of charm, giving the area a really pleasant atmosphere.
That said, it was a very compact old town — in reality, it was only a couple of streets. It was nice to wander around and take it all in, but it didn’t take long before we’d seen everything. Still, we were glad we’d made the effort to visit.
By now, the temperature had started to drop a little, so we decided to walk back towards the promenade. At least we’d get some more steps in along the way. Of course, the pizza was calling again, and it sounded like the perfect way to finish our short but sweet stay in Vlorë.
Our next stop would be our final destination in Albania. Shkodër, the historic capital of northern Albania. Located around 100 kilometres north of Tirana, it sits close to the shores of Lake Shkodër and the dramatic Albanian Alps. It would also bring us closer to the Montenegrin border, which we were hoping to cross into next.
