Tbilisi
After China, it was time to start heading west and a little closer to home. We weren’t quite ready to fly straight back to the UK just yet. Instead, why not squeeze in a few new destinations on the way? After all, we were heading in that direction anyway, and it would give us the chance to experience a few more cultures before returning home.
Georgia had always been high on our list of places to visit. When researching flights from Shanghai, I found one that wasn’t too bad – a connection in Urumqi (still in China) followed by a direct flight to Tbilisi. The five-hour layover in Urumqi wasn’t ideal, but it was all in a day’s travel and was going to be a long journey regardless, so we booked it
One unexpected bonus was that we had access to the airport lounge in Urumqi, a small reward for all the travelling we do. Free food, comfortable seats and a chance to relax for a few hours made the wait pass much quicker.
Before long we were back in the air and on our way to Tbilisi, finally about to experience Georgia for ourselves.
We arrived in Tbilisi fairly late in the evening, but thankfully the airport bus was still running. I’d read that you could simply tap your debit card to pay, which sounded easy enough and was certainly a lot cheaper than getting a taxi.
We were staying near Liberty Square, right in the centre of the city, and the bus stopped just a short walk away from our apartment. Thankfully, the host had sent us self check-in instructions, so there was no need to worry about arriving late and keeping anyone waiting. After a long day of travelling, it was nice to get inside, dump our bags and finally call it a night.
In the light of day we could finally appreciate our surroundings. Our little apartment had loads of character. It was on the top floor of a traditional old building, reached by a large creaking staircase that, on first impressions, left a lot to be desired. Once inside though, it was a different story.
The room was surrounded by wraparound windows which opened up to views of the hillside and the tower perched high above the city. Looking out across the rooftops, we were surrounded by traditional buildings, and it immediately felt like we’d arrived somewhere completely different to anywhere we’d visited on this trip so far.
Whenever we head somewhere new, I like to do a bit of research. I enjoy getting the lowdown on everything from what to see and do to the best restaurants, bars and any useful tips. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t plan every minute of every day—that would take away the fun of discovering a place for yourself. But I do like to arrive armed with a bit of knowledge and a few ideas.
One place that had already caught my eye was a baker just around the corner from our apartment. From what I’d seen, it was a small basement bakery making traditional Georgian bread. As two people who are slightly obsessed with bread, it didn’t take much to convince us—this immediately went to the top of the list.
So naturally, our first stop in Tbilisi was a visit to the “bread dude”—Shane’s words, not mine.
A small staircase led down from the street, and I peered into the bakery below where he was busy at work. It felt a bit like I was intruding on someone’s kitchen, but there was no real time to hesitate.
The purchase itself involved a few grunts and very little eye contact. A couple of minutes later, I emerged back onto street level clutching two warm loaves of delicious-smelling Georgian bread. They were rustic, slightly banana-shaped creations, baked in a tone clay oven where they are stuck to the sides as they cook — which explains the shape.
For just a few pence, it felt like we’d grabbed ourselves a bargain—so we headed off to find butter and eggs and get breakfast properly underway.
I wasn’t sure at this stage whether having easy access to all these European-style goodies was a good or bad thing—I guess I’ll find out if I’m a few pounds heavier. But the bread was honestly incredible.
After weeks in China of noodles and dumplings, it was just so nice to have something different. Not to say you can’t get good bread in China, but it’s not quite as easy to come by.
Either way, after a delicious breakfast, we were ready to head out and explore Tbilisi properly.
Tbilisi immediately felt different. There was a mix of the familiar and the unfamiliar—European touches blended with something more rugged and lived-in, which only added to the charm of the place.
We wandered without much of a plan, just taking in the streets around Liberty Square towards the old town. The buildings felt full of character, some beautifully restored and others left a little worn and crumbling, many being propped up with large metal girders, all sitting side by side in a way that somehow just worked.
We continued exploring as we ventured out for dinner. It was lovely to see a vibrant café culture, with restaurants spilling out onto the streets. Tbilisi so far was a joy; it was a pleasure to wander the streets, with colourful buildings and ornate balconies. Along the way, we came across the famous crooked clock tower, looking as though it had been lifted straight from the pages of a fairy tale. As we continued wandering, we passed several beautiful churches, some tucked into tight residential corners, others perched high above rooftops. We could have flopped into any of the inviting restaurants as we strolled by, but we didn’t want to stop just yet; it was so nice to keep wandering. A bonus was that the days are long this time of year, with the sun not setting until around 8:30pm, so we had time to explore.
It was a lovely evening too, with clear blue skies overhead. Looking up, we could see the cable cars gliding past, carrying passengers up to the huge Mother of Georgia statue that stands high above the city.
Happy that we’d wandered enough for one day, we decided to stop at one of the restaurants, where the tables and chairs outside were perfect for al fresco dining and people-watching, and I couldn’t wait to try the Georgian wine.
Along with the wine, we were also looking forward to sampling our first Georgian cuisine. Reading up on the country’s popular dishes, I discovered that another love of mine is huge here too: cheese. Cheese and wine—now we’re talking.
The first dish we wanted to try was Khachapuri (cheese bread), Georgia’s signature dish. With a few different versions to choose from, we opted for the Imeruli, a perfectly round, flat-baked pie stuffed entirely with salty, tangy Imeretian cheese.
Well, first can I tell you that the wine was delicious, and paired with this cheesy bread it was perfection.
I sampled a couple more wines while Shane enjoyed the local beer before we called it a night. From our first impressions, we were already loving it here.
The next morning, we nipped straight to the bread dude. I could see for the foreseeable future this was going to become a thing.
“Let’s see if I can get a smile out of the baker this morning,” I thought.
I headed down the stairs into the bakery, all smiles myself, and another customer was there too. He smiled back, and we got chatting as he spoke English. After the usual quick conversation—where are you from, how long are you here, that sort of thing—he started translating for the baker, who happened to have a son-in-law from near where we live in the UK. Small world.
Suddenly it was smiles all round. As I left the bakery, I couldn’t help thinking we may have a new friend.
We had a leisurely breakfast, caught up on some writing, and decided we’d venture out later in the afternoon.
When we eventually headed out, we walked in the opposite direction to where we’d gone previously. We both enjoy photography, so we’re always happy to wander around in search of interesting photo opportunities.
I spotted a narrow street with a set of steps leading up the hillside.
“Let’s go up there.”
Shane wasn’t happy at the prospect of an uphill climb. The steps eventually lead all the way up to the Mother of Georgia statue, but I suggested we only go halfway to enjoy the views across the city. We could save the full climb for another day.
It was another gorgeous evening and, halfway up, we found a viewpoint. From here, the view was stunning. The hills rolled out before us, and between them you could see churches popping up across the city. From here we could pick out all the places we wanted to explore over the next few days.
We didn’t climb any higher; instead, we stayed on the road as it wound back down the hillside, passing beautiful houses, small hotels, and local restaurants, all making the most of the views.
The road led us down into the heart of the old town, close to the Meidan Bazaar with its underground market and antiques, which we’d visit another day. Instead, we followed the road around towards the sulphur baths.
This part of Tbilisi has a completely different feel. The sulphur baths are one of the city’s most distinctive sights, sitting low with their domed brick roofs half-buried into the ground and built directly over natural hot sulphur springs.
What’s interesting is how much changes in such a small area. One moment you’re in the winding streets of the old town, and the next you’re among these domed bathhouses and just nearby a beautiful mosque, with its mosaic façade.
Adding to the atmosphere, a local group was dancing to Georgian music in the square. The evening was getting better by the minute. We continued past the mosque, over a wooden bridge covered in padlocks, and followed the path towards more music. This time it was coming from a very inviting restaurant. The chilled tunes were drawing us in, and it looked like the perfect place for dinner.
It was here we got to try more Georgian dishes. Khinkali was a must — large twisted soup dumplings filled with meat or vegetarian fillings. We went for the meat ones, and also ordered Ojakhuri with chicken, a hearty dish of meat fried with thick potato wedges and sweet onions. We ordered well once again. It’s proper hearty food here, and very tasty.
The following day, we decided to head back uphill to see the Mother of Georgia. Our original plan was to retrace our steps, but I realised we could walk through the botanical gardens instead, which sounded like a much nicer option, and then make our way back down via the steps and winding roads.
It turned out to be an excellent choice. There was a small entrance fee for the botanical gardens, but it was well worth it. We wandered along pleasant, shady pathways, passing waterfalls and lush greenery as the route gradually climbed towards the Mother of Georgia statue. You don’t quite appreciate just how enormous the statue is until you’re standing directly beneath it.
There was a lovely atmosphere at the top too. Buskers were playing music, plenty of benches invited people to sit and take in the views, and small cafés were selling snacks, beer and, of course, wine. Even wine ice cream was on offer. Though, I have to admit, that’s one local delicacy I was happy to give a miss!
Eventually, we headed back down towards the Old Town, finding yet another fantastic square packed with restaurants and lively with people enjoying the evening. This city just keeps on giving. Happy to look no further, we picked a spot, ordered dinner and sat back to enjoy the last of the daylight, reflecting on another great day in Tbilisi.
One by one, we were ticking off the places of interest in this lovely city. Today, we planned to visit a few of Tbilisi’s beautiful churches, with the Holy Trinity Cathedral at the top of the list.
It sits across the river from the Old Town and is perched on a hill, so making it our first stop of the day seemed sensible, hopefully allowing us to tackle the uphill walk before the temperatures really started to climb.
In the end, it wasn’t nearly as bad as we’d expected. From a distance, it looked far more elevated than it actually was.
The cathedral itself is stunning, particularly its 24-carat gold roof and dome, which gleam in the sunlight and dominate the skyline. It’s not even that old, having been built between 1995 and 2004 to commemorate 1,500 years of the Georgian Orthodox Church. Despite its relatively recent construction, it’s a credit to the craftsmen who created it. The quality of the workmanship is remarkable and the attention to detail throughout the building is something you don’t often see in modern construction.
From here, we headed back downhill, where we came across the Queen Darejani Palace. We hadn’t even known this place existed, so it felt like a great little discovery.
Built on the ruins of the old city walls and castles, the palace, historically known as Sachino, is a striking 18th-century royal residence. Constructed in 1776 for Queen Darejan, it features a unique round, light-blue wooden balcony that hangs dramatically over the edge of a rocky cliff.
Naturally, that meant I was the one tasked with venturing out onto the balcony to take the photos. There was absolutely no chance of getting Shane out there. The self-confessed scaredy-cat was more than happy to admire it from a safe distance while I did the hard work!
Heading further downhill brought us to the Metekhi Church of the Nativity of the Mother of God. This is one of those landmarks you simply can’t miss — one of the oldest and most iconic historic sites in Tbilisi, perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Mtkvari River.
The original church and fortress were founded as far back as the 5th and 6th centuries, though repeated invasions saw the early structures destroyed over time. The church that stands today was rebuilt between 1278 and 1289, giving it an impressive sense of age and resilience.
Within the church grounds also stands the equestrian statue of the legendary 5th-century warrior king, the founder of Tbilisi. It was added in 1967 by the renowned Georgian sculptor Elguja Amashukeli, who also created the Mother of Georgia statue high above the city.
It’s a hugely popular spot, and it was busy during our visit, with coach loads of tourists and even wedding couples taking advantage of the dramatic backdrop for their photos — a perfect setting for wedding photography.
As I mentioned earlier, there are tonnes of churches dotted around Tbilisi, all equally beautiful in their own way. I’ve really come to admire the architecture of Georgian churches, along with the intricate paintings and frescoes inside.
We even lit a few candles for loved ones while we were there. Places of worship like this often have a way of making you pause and reflect, and it felt like the perfect moment to offer a quiet remembrance.
Later that evening, we got to see a more modern side of the city as we walked down to the Bridge of Peace. A pedestrian bridge spanning the Kura River, glass and steel design is beautifully illuminated at night. The atmosphere was brought to life even more by buskers playing music along the bridge.
The city is just as wonderful by night as it is by day, with candlelit restaurants and quirky cellar wine bars dotted along the streets. You don’t have to walk far at all before something charming and inviting catches your eye.
We can’t visit everywhere, but oh my, I wish we could. It almost feels like sacrilege to walk past some of these places without stepping inside.
Tbilisi really does have so much to offer. I’m grateful our time here hasn’t felt rushed — slow travel gives you the freedom to extend your stay when you enjoy a place, and this was most definitely one of those cities. We’d already decided to stay a few more days to see more of the sights.
Today, we planned to visit the Chronicles of Georgia — a colossal monument located on Keeni Hill, often referred to as the “Georgian Stonehenge.” This massive complex consists of 16 towering bronze and copper pillars, reaching heights of around 30 to 35 metres (over 100 feet). It serves as a visual encyclopedia of the country’s rich heritage, designed to commemorate 3,000 years of Georgian statehood and 2,000 years of Christianity in the region. Construction began in 1985 during the Soviet era, but the collapse of the Soviet Union disrupted funding, leaving it technically unfinished.
To get there, we took the metro first, which was an experience in itself. The metro was built in 1966 and was the fourth metro system in the former Soviet Union. Like many ex-Soviet metros, most of the stations are incredibly deep underground.
And when I say deep, I mean deep. The escalator seemed to go on forever, carrying us deeper and deeper below the city. You could tell the system had some age to it. It even had that distinctive smell you sometimes find in deep mines or tunnels. It reminded me of some of the deepest stations on the London Underground.
The network itself is fairly modest, with just two lines serving the city, but at least they have a metro, and it does the job well. It’s also remarkably cheap, and trains run very frequently.
The carriages looked quite old too. Unlike many modern metro systems, the carriages aren’t interconnected, so as the train rattled along, each carriage bounced and swayed independently. Looking through the window into the next carriage, you could see it rocking about just as much as ours. It may not have the sleek feel of a modern metro, but it has plenty of character and still gets people where they need to go efficiently.
After leaving the metro, we caught a local bus that took us most of the way before dropping us off. From there, we were faced with a 25-minute uphill walk. It didn’t look too daunting, so we decided to take it at a leisurely pace.
We picked up a cheese pie and some drinks after getting off the bus, planning to find a shaded spot on the hill for a little picnic. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much shade once we started the climb, though a welcome breeze kept things comfortable. Halfway up, we gave in and sat on the grass anyway — cheese pie, soda, and sweeping views stretching out below us. Funny how it’s often the simplest moments that feel the best.
Refreshed, we continued uphill to finally reach the monument, which was every bit as remarkable as expected, not just for its scale and detail, but also for its dramatic setting overlooking the vast reservoir below.
It was well worth the metro ride, bus journey, and uphill walk to get here. Fortunately, on the way back we found a closer bus stop that took us all the way into the city. I wish we’d known about it earlier, but then we wouldn’t have experienced the metro or enjoyed our picnic on the hillside, so it all worked out in the end.
Back in the city we wanted to venture a bit further beyond the Old Town, so that evening we set off on a walk past Liberty Square towards the Parliament building, just following the streets and seeing where they took us.
I’d pinned a few sights along the way, one of which was the giant bicycle monument — it sounded quirky enough to be worth a stop. From there, the plan was to head across the river to Fabrika, a renovated former sewing factory now transformed into a trendy courtyard filled with independent bars, cafés, and restaurants. It definitely sounded like a place worth exploring.
This part of town was just as lovely as the Old Town, with elegant buildings lining the streets and a strong café culture still very much alive. It felt like there were hidden pockets everywhere, little corners and courtyards waiting to be discovered just off the main roads.
I know I keep saying it, but what another great day we had.
Tomorrow we move on as we take the bus to Batumi, a coastal resort on the Black Sea. Georgia isn’t a big country, so we’re essentially crossing north to south on a coach journey that will take around 6–7 hours. We did initially want to go by train, but they get booked up quickly. The good news is we’ll be returning to Tbilisi later on, and I’ve already managed to pre-book the train for that journey back.
It actually makes sense for us to return anyway, as flight options are much better from Tbilisi, so we’ve saved a couple of places we still want to see for then. But for now, we’ll see what coastal Georgia has to offer.
Batumi
We hadn’t even heard of Batumi until we got chatting to a British guy during our time in Tbilisi. He couldn’t speak highly enough of it, and by the time he’d finished describing the place, he’d completely sold it to us. A quick bit of research afterwards only reinforced the idea. It looked like somewhere a little different, with a mix of seaside charm, modern architecture, and plenty to explore. It sounded like it deserved a place on our itinerary.
Getting there was straightforward enough, with both buses and trains running between the cities. Our first choice would have been the train, but when we went to book it for the dates we wanted, we found it was fully booked. The bus was still available though, and while it would take about an hour longer, it still seemed like a perfectly reasonable option.
The journey there was comfortable and scenic. The Georgian countryside is green, lush, and mountainous, so the time flew by.
When looking at where to stay, the Old Town would have been our first choice. However, we decided against it after noticing that modern apartments with kitchens and washing machines were available for a lower price along the modern promenade. That’s probably because so many new apartment buildings have been constructed there in recent years, with even more still being built.
I’d also read that the Old Town was still within easy walking distance, so staying along the promenade became the obvious choice for us. As an added bonus, it gave us the chance to catch up on the washing and enjoy a few home comforts.
Sitting on the subtropical Black Sea coast, just a short drive from the Turkish border, Batumi is Georgia’s second-largest city and a place of striking contrasts. On one side lies the Old Town, with its elegant 19th-century buildings, cobbled streets and traditional squares. On the other, a skyline of skyscrapers, luxury hotels and casinos has earned Batumi the nickname “the Las Vegas of the Black Sea.” Others compare it to Dubai, thanks to its futuristic architecture and rapid development.
Unfortunately, just as we arrived, the heavens opened and the rain started pouring down. It wasn’t exactly the welcome we’d hoped for, but it didn’t deter us. Our original plan had been to stroll along the waterfront promenade to the Old Town, but with the weather against us, we decided to jump in a taxi instead.
First impressions of the Old Town were exactly what I’d hoped for: lovely buildings, cobbled streets, and inviting restaurants and boutique shops lining the narrow lanes.
Tonight wasn’t going to be the night to explore the Old Town properly, but it gave us a lovely first glimpse. We found a cosy restaurant and, once again, ordered khachapuri. The Adjarian version, with butter and an egg, originates from this region. It certainly didn’t disappoint – it was every bit as delicious as we’d hoped.
The following morning was much brighter, making it the perfect day to explore properly. Our apartment was right on the seafront, so it was only a short stroll across the road to the promenade.
Known as Batumi Boulevard or Seaside Park, the promenade stretches for around seven kilometres along the Black Sea coast. We joined it and headed back towards the Old Town, taking our time to soak up the atmosphere. It’s a lovely place for a walk, with wide pedestrian paths lined by palm trees, parks, cycle lanes and plenty of cafés where you can stop for a drink and watch the world go by.
The beach itself is made up of pebbles and, if I’m honest, isn’t the most attractive beach we’ve come across. That certainly didn’t seem to put anyone else off though. Plenty of people were swimming, sunbathing and relaxing on the rows of sun loungers dotted along the shore. While it probably wouldn’t be the reason to visit Batumi, it still adds to the city’s laid-back seaside feel.
As we continued along the promenade, we passed several of the larger international hotels overlooking the sea. I have to say, we were really impressed with its seafront.
A little further along, we reached the Batumi Tower, a striking 200-metre building made even more unusual by the Ferris wheel built into its upper section. From there, it was just a short walk to two of the city’s most recognisable landmarks: the Alphabet Tower, designed around the 33 letters of the Georgian alphabet, and the famous Ali and Nino moving statue.
The 8-metre-high transparent steel figures of a man and a woman, named Ali and Nino, move slowly towards each other, pass through one another, and gradually become one. The process repeats every 10 minutes.
Inspired by the novel Ali and Nino, the sculpture symbolises eternal love and mutual understanding across cultures and religions.
A little further along, at the far end of the promenade, is the Argo Cable Car, one of the city’s most popular attractions. It carries visitors from the waterfront to the top of Anuria Mountain on a 2.6-kilometre journey that takes around 15 minutes. At the summit, there are several viewing platforms offering spectacular panoramic views, as well as a number of cafés and restaurants.
I’m not particularly fond of cable cars, so on this occasion we decided to give it a miss and carry on into the Old Town, happy to keep our feet firmly on solid ground.
It was nice to wander around the Old Town in daylight and, on such a beautiful sunny day, it looked even better than it had the night before. In fact, it was a little too hot if anything, but as we wandered through the cobbled streets we were able to escape the worst of the heat in the shade of the buildings.
The Old Town is full of charm, with beautiful buildings around almost every corner. Before long we found ourselves in Europe Square, the historic heart of Batumi. Surrounded by elegant Belle Époque, Neoclassical and Art Nouveau buildings, it’s a lovely place to stop and soak up the atmosphere. In the centre is an interactive fountain, which was proving very popular with children looking to cool off in the heat.
As we explored, we kept stumbling across little hidden gems, including Piazza Square, with its beautiful restaurants and inviting outdoor seating areas, and glimpses of old churches nearby.
We even came across two weddings — it really felt like such a beautiful place to get married.
Batumi definitely has a lot to offer. Simply walking the promenade and exploring the Old Town was enough to keep us happy, although there’s plenty more to do, including boat trips, the cable car and spending time on the beach.
Back at our apartment, looking out across the modern apartment blocks, it’s hard not to notice how many are still incomplete. You can see it’s a place on the up, with new construction happening all around, but also signs that some projects may have stalled. We read that financial difficulties in recent years had caused some developments to stall, with building work paused for several years in some cases. Hopefully they will all be completed properly one day — they just need the finishing touches to feel more polished.
By night, Batumi loves lighting everything up. The skyscrapers glow and change colour, bridges shimmer, and down by a small lake near the promenade there’s a fountain show. The city’s colourful nightlife has earned it comparisons to the “Las Vegas of the Black Sea,” although the atmosphere is far more laid-back.
One day we walked the promenade in the opposite direction. One area we passed still had old Soviet-era apartment blocks sitting side by side with new construction — I’m sure these older blocks won’t last much longer. It’s a city changing so fast that the past and the future are constantly colliding. Walking that quieter, flatter stretch of promenade gives you a much more authentic look at local life compared to the more polished, tourist-heavy side near the Old Town.
You could walk for miles, as sections open up into shady parks with benches and outdoor gyms. It’s extremely popular with joggers and cyclists, and you can see why, being long and flat. We definitely preferred walking towards the Old Town, but it was still good to see a different side of the city.
We also came to Batumi to slow down a little, spend time in the apartment, and not be going at 100mph — and we did exactly that. It was nice to cook again and watch a few movies.
We could have taken the bus along the coast, as I’d read there were several resorts not too far away where the beaches and swimming were said to be even better, but we didn’t get the chance in the end. We don’t have to explore every nook and cranny.
We really enjoyed our time in Batumi. It’s one of those places that gradually grows on you, although we loved the Old Town from the moment we first wandered through it.
Somehow, Batumi manages to feel like several places rolled into one, with its elegant Old Town, modern skyline, long seafront promenade and laid-back beach atmosphere all sitting comfortably side by side.
However, it was time to return to Tbilisi. We always knew we’d be back because, although Batumi has an airport, it doesn’t offer as many onward flight options for the routes we were planning. It was much easier to return to Tbilisi, and fortunately this time I’d managed to book the train in advance.
Knowing we’d be coming back, we’d deliberately saved the Kazbegi mountain region until our return. To tell you the truth, I was actually looking forward to getting back to Tbilisi. The city had stolen a little piece of my heart, and I couldn’t wait to see it again.
Tbilisi & Kazbegi
Getting the train back to Tbilisi was a great decision. The journey was really scenic, winding its way through the mountains and passing through what felt like countless tunnels. It made the trip fly by, especially with something new to enjoy outside the window every few minutes.
It was also our first time travelling on a double-decker train. We’d never been on one before, so that was a nice little novelty. Even better, it got us back about an hour quicker than the bus would have, so we were more than happy with our choice.
As much as we’d enjoyed our time in Batumi, Tbilisi just has the edge for us. There was something really nice about coming back. We’d only been here the week before, but it already felt familiar, almost like returning home. I don’t know exactly what it is about the city, but it has a way of drawing you back in. The mix of old streets, lively atmosphere and relaxed pace just makes it somewhere we really enjoy spending time.
We were only back in Tbilisi for a few days, but we’d purposely saved the Kazbegi tour until our return, and we were really looking forward to it.
Initially, we planned to travel into this region and stay for a few days. However, after some research, we realised a tour was the easier option. It offered excellent value compared to booking private drivers or shared minibuses, while still allowing us to experience one of Georgia’s most spectacular regions.
We booked it for the very next day, and the weather forecast couldn’t have looked much better. The day tours are long, typically lasting 10–12 hours, following the historic Georgian Military Highway into the Caucasus Mountains. It’s an incredibly scenic route heading north towards the town of Stepantsminda, more commonly known as Kazbegi.
The tour had several stops throughout the day and was great value at under a tenner each, so we certainly had no complaints.
Our first stop was at the Zhinvali Water Reservoir. It was only a brief photo stop, but the viewpoint from the highway overlooking the reservoir was spectacular.
Back on board, we continued along the road for only a short distance before reaching the Ananuri Fortress Complex, a stunning late medieval defensive stronghold built in the 16th and 17th centuries and proposed for UNESCO World Heritage status. Inside the walls are two beautifully preserved 17th-century churches, and the setting is incredible, overlooking the reservoir and the surrounding Caucasus mountain landscape.
Continuing on, our next stop was the Black and White Aragvi, where two branches of the Aragvi River, each a contrasting colour, meet and flow side by side without immediately mixing. Further downstream, the waters gradually blend into one.
Once again, it was only a brief photo stop. As it had rained heavily overnight, we didn’t get to see the phenomenon at its most striking, although the difference in colour was still clearly visible.
After this, we stopped for lunch at a roadside restaurant in a beautiful setting, although that wasn’t unusual as the scenery along this entire stretch of road is stunning.
For lunch we had yet another Adjarian khachapuri—we simply can’t resist this dish, and this one ranked among the best we’d tasted. Afterwards, the group was taken to a small wine shop in the same grounds for a tasting.
With Georgia claiming to be the birthplace of wine, winemaking is taken very seriously here. We sampled a selection of wines, cognac and chacha, Georgia’s national spirit, distilled from the leftover grape skins, seeds and stems used in the winemaking process.
Our guide was rather generous with each pour, making sure we all raised a hearty “cheers” before every tasting. I think we were all feeling a little tipsy by the end. I even had to refuse the final glass of chacha—it was far too early in the day!
We then had quite a long drive towards Kazbegi National Park. I think we were all ready for a snooze after lunch and the wine tasting, but we managed to stay awake as the scenery became even more spectacular. After all, the drive itself was part of the experience.
The mountains grew ever more dramatic, with the last remnants of snow still clinging to the highest peaks. In another month or so, they would be completely clear for a few months before the snow returned in winter. This area is also home to some of Georgia’s most popular ski resorts, including Gudauri, whose slopes usually open in mid to late December.
The roads along this section of the journey became a little hair-raising, I won’t lie. Tight bends and steep climbs took us ever higher into the mountains. I think Shane shut his eyes around a few of the sharper corners!
We drove through Gudauri, with its alpine-style lodges, hotels and restaurants. It was easy to imagine how magical it must look blanketed in snow during winter. Our guide told us the resort has around 20 different cable cars, giving skiers access to the various runs spread across the mountains.
I could see our next stop long before we reached it. Perched dramatically on the edge of a cliff was the Georgia–Russia Friendship Monument, impossible to miss against the mountain backdrop.
Built in 1983 to mark 200 years since the Treaty of Georgievsk, the huge circular stone monument overlooks the dramatic Devil’s Valley. Whatever you think of its history, there’s no denying it’s an impressive sight, and the views from here are even better.
Scaredy-cat Shane didn’t like this stop much. There was no chance he was walking anywhere near the edge or up to the monument itself. Instead, he found a bench where he could admire the mountains from what he considered a safe distance and sent me off with his camera.
The viewpoint is also popular with paragliders, and it was great watching them soar past the monument. Rather them than me, although I did enjoy filming them.
The views from here were stunning. As we arrived, the weather suddenly turned, creating a dramatic sky before a short downpour swept through. It didn’t last long though. By the time I got back to Shane, still firmly glued to his bench, the sun was shining again.
From the monument, the Russian border at the Dariali/Larsi crossing is surprisingly close—just a 20–30 minute drive north along the same road, though it wasn’t included as part of the tour, so we wouldn’t be sneaking Russia onto our list of countries visited just yet.
We were heading to what was possibly the highlight of the tour—Gergeti Trinity Church, one of Georgia’s most iconic landmarks, built in the 14th century and perched dramatically on a hilltop against the backdrop of Mount Kazbek.
The road up is winding and narrow, so our vehicle couldn’t make the journey all the way. Because of that, it wasn’t included in the tour. However, we were given the option to pay a few pounds each to share a small minibus that could take us up instead.
Most of the group were up for it (I thought Shane might bottle it for a moment), but he put his big-boy pants on and we paid the driver.
I’ll admit, as we set off I had my reservations—the driver was chatting away to passengers and turning his head mid-conversation, and I remember thinking, “eyes on the road, please!” But I needn’t have worried. He makes this journey several times a day and probably knows it blindfolded… although I still wouldn’t want to be a passenger if he did.
Anyway, we made it up in one piece—and it genuinely felt like we’d arrived on top of the world. A 360-degree panorama of the entire mountain range stretched out around us, with the stunning church taking pride of place, perched high as if guarding the mountains.
You’d really need a drone to capture those iconic shots of the church—it’s surprisingly difficult to photograph up close. But that didn’t take away from the experience, and the surrounding mountains were on another level.
This was our final stop of the day and definitely a highlight, although to be fair, all of the stops had been impressive. Some of the group departed here, which was a savvy way to reach Kazbegi. I assumed they’d arranged it with the tour company, as they would have needed to store their luggage — but either way, it worked for them: a full tour and transport for under a tenner. I’ll be remembering that for the future.
From here, we had a long drive back, and like most people on the bus, we soon had our heads down for the journey home.
It was dark by the time we arrived back in Tbilisi. After a great day, we were happy to head straight back to the apartment and relax.
That brought us to our last day in Tbilisi. We didn’t rush around too much, but we did take one last walk around some of our favourite spots and visit the bread dude.
It’s such a special place that it has really found a place in my heart, and I know I’ll be quite sad to leave. But I’m sure that feeling won’t last too long, as a new adventure is already waiting.
Our next stop is North Macedonia. There aren’t any direct flights from Georgia, so our journey first takes us to Istanbul, where we have a six-hour layover before catching our connecting flight to Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, and the first place we’ll explore.
Geographically, Georgia sits on the eastern side of the Black Sea, bordered by countries that don’t make onward travel particularly straightforward. Combined with the limited flight options, getting to our next destination proved a little more awkward than we expected. Even so, every journey has its challenges, and before long we’ll be setting foot in a brand-new country, ready for the next chapter of our adventure.
