Midlifers Go East
Bali
Seminyak & Canggu.
We were really looking forward to Bali which would be our first stop in Indonesia.
It would also be the first place since Thailand that I felt would have more of a holiday vibe and likely to have a good mix of holiday makers as well as backpackers.
There are lots of places we want to visit on Bali so l’d put together an itinerary that we can loosely follow.
We decided our first stop would be around Seminyak as it’s relatively close to the airport and a popular tourist destination.
We stayed at the top end of Seminyak in an area called Petitenget which still has plenty going on but probably a little quieter than in the centre.
We love walking so our first day we headed to the beach which was only 10 minutes from our hotel.
We passed by lots of quirky restaurants, hipster cafes and boutiques and just before arriving at the beach there was a beautiful Hindu temple with the most amazing architecture.
It had a lovely feel to the area and the people were extremely friendly greeting us as we walked by.
When we arrived at the beach we decided to walk in the Seminyak direction.
The beach that stretches all the way along this coast is known for its surf, it’s not really a swimming beach and red flags are in place but there are a few sections where it was a little calmer so ok for a shallow dip and several areas do have life guards on duty.
Along the beach in Seminyak there are lots of beach bars and Warungs (which are local Indonesian cafes) renting out sunloungers. The same beach bars have bean bags out at night to watch the sun go down.
We came across a beach path when we got to Seminyak and found that the path stretches for miles all the way past Legian and Kuta.
Along the pathway are pop up bars one after the other all offering seating on the beach, Sun loungers and surf board hire. There were some really quirky ones around Legian (with names aimed at the Aussies), you are spoilt for choice, there are so many and I bet they are amazing at night with a cool vibe.
We continued further along the pathway passing a few temples along the way and ended up walking all the way past Kuta. It was pretty much the same all the way down with hundreds of these little beach bars where you can chill and watch the surf.
We had a great day! We had walked miles and would have certainly earned a good meal.
Petitenget had plenty going on at night. Filled with a mix of trendy upmarket restaurants alongside cute cafes and local Warung’s.
There was a mix of bars and a few playing live music. You can also head down to the beach where there is some lovely beachside restaurants. We ended up at a rooftop bar with an amazing band and stayed until the end as they were so fantastic.
The next day we walked in the opposite direction towards Canggu.
On the way we passed by two beach clubs, there’s around 5 in this area altogether.
These luxury beach clubs do look amazing with infinity pools, swim up bars, DJ sets and daybeds. I can imagine with a group of you it would be an amazing way to spend a day.
Plus they don’t charge hefty prices like in Ibiza and Marbella etc it’s surprisingly affordable.
It took us just over an hour to walk to Canggu. It doesn’t have a beach path like the other direction but the beach is pretty flat so it’s a nice walk and we enjoyed watching the surfers.
There also places to stop as the beach is dotted with little beach cafes, nothing like in the opposite direction but still enough.
As we approached Canggu there was loads of surfers as it’s also a popular surfing destination. There was lots of photographers on the beach with all the right camera equipment, enormous zoom lenses. We realised they must take pictures of the surfers to sell which actually sounds like a good idea as they probably capture some great close up shots that as a surfer you wouldn’t be able to get yourself.
After a couple of days we decided to move up to Canggu and have a few days there.
Even though it’s only a few kilometres it took us much longer in a taxi than we expected. The roads are manic here as there is so much traffic but still only country lanes.
Canggu is great, still plenty going on like the other resorts along this coast but it just has a more laid back bohemian feel to it with cute markets, trendy coffee shops, bars and restaurants.
On our travels we’d met a British couple travelling with their young daughter, first in Cambodia, then our paths crossed again in Vietnam and lucky for us we would be able to meet up with them one last time as they was also in Bali which would be their last stop before returning to the UK
They knew we were in Canggu so they decided on here also for their final stop so we could spend some time together.
It was really lovely seeing them and we got to meet up on serval occasions to walk the beach and watch the sunset.
Canggu is the perfect place for that. At ‘Ecco beach’ (song in there somewhere) the amount of people that gather to watch the sunset is incredible. I’ve never seen so many people sat on the beach waiting for this nightly spectacle.
The sunsets here are amazing so I can understand why so many people gather at this point.
We walked a few times from Canggu towards the headland (walking right on the beach).
The beach and surf in this direction is much more rugged and wild and is a wide stretch of black sand. It’s a little harder to walk as the sand shelves in areas but it was still worth it. There are a couple of beach bars along the way you can stop and chill.
We passed by a Swiss woman here walking 35 dogs. She had an interesting story to tell. She’d been rescuing dogs on the island for 11 years and now has a total of 50. You could see she was so passionate of their welfare and does get help to walk them from local people.
Canggu is a great place for young people as it has a great selection of clubs and bars, and it’s the only place in Bali where you can party and dance on the beach until the early morning hours. It used to be difficult to find clubs that stay open late in Canggu, but with more options appearing in recent years, that is no longer the case.
Just as we would head home to bed the party people were just heading down to the beach in droves. Now it made sense that the little pizza place next to our hotel was open until 5am selling pizza slice.
We had a great time here and we didn’t even get to see all that the resort had to offer so we would definitely return.
Next we are moving inland to Ubud with its terraced rice paddies dotted with Hindu temples and the sacred monkey forest.
Ubud
For our next stop we would be moving inland to the town of Ubud in the uplands of Bali.
Ubud has gained popularity over the years making it one of the must see destinations on Bali.
Set amid jungle ravines and rice field terraces, Ubud has long been the center of Bali’s traditions and spiritual life.
Once a peaceful hippy village and probably a best kept secret, now it has grown into a thriving yet laid-back cosmopolitan community.
Transport options are limited on Bali so the most common way to get around is either by scooter, taxi or private driver.
We took a taxi which should only be an hour or so but took around 2 hours just because of the sheer amount of traffic and small roads.
We knew we were getting close to the town when the traffic came to a standstill queuing all the way into the centre.
We were staying in the centre of town but just off a quieter lane nestled amongst rice paddies and just enough away from the hustle and bustle.
What I loved straight away about Ubud was its narrow streets lined with quirky cafe bars, temples, beautiful shops and an abundance of restaurants that look like they just jumped out of a magazine. Each one enticing you just to enjoy the splendour of your surroundings.
There are many things to do in Ubud itself and is also the perfect base for day trips such as exploring Mount Batur volcano, hidden waterfalls and authentic East Bali.
One of the most popular attractions in the town is the Sacred Monkey Forest.
The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary is a nature reserve and temple complex and home to over 1260 long-tailed macaques, who are considered sacred by the local Balinese people.
You know how much we love monkeys so this place was the first on our list.
You can walk it from the town centre in around 20 minutes and you know when you’re almost there as you start to see lots of monkeys hanging about the area just outside.
Entrance is £4 during the week and £5 weekends.
You can take as long or as quick as you want to get around. We spent hours exploring the pathways that led to the temples and through the forest with rivers and ancient trees. Passing different groups of monkeys along the way and so many with young babies it was amazing to observe their captivating Monkey behaviour, watching them play and generally be cheeky.
They are clever here and won’t think twice about trying to get into your bags if you give them the opportunity. One did climb on Shane’s rucksack but only got away with a tissue from the side pocket as we’d clipped the fastener.
They are well fed so they don’t tend to be aggressive however there are signs throughout the forest asking you not to give them too much eye contact as this is seen as a form of aggression.
It’s an enchanting place and a wonderful place for these monkeys to call home.
It was Saturday when we visited so we were fortunate to find that a Balinese dance performance was taking place late afternoon. So we decided to stick around and were glad we did as it was extremely colourful and charming portraying stories and history of Bali through dance.
We had an amazing day at the monkey forest so would recommend anyone that visits Ubud to definitely not miss it out.
Ubud is known to be the spiritual center of Bali so it’s good to explore the many temples. There are quite a few in the town centre as well as surrounding areas.
‘Puri Saren Agung’ also known as the Ubud Royal Palace was built in the 1800s and it’s easily the most well known temple in Ubud, partly because it’s located directly in the town center. A short walk along the same street you pass ‘Pura Taman Kemuda Saraswati’ a scenic Hindu temple with lotus pond and then a little further down the ‘Pura Dalem’ known for having some of the most bizarre and intricate statues of any of the Bali temples. Creepy demon goddesses, lions, and other creatures stare back at you.
To enter the temples you do need to wear a Sarong and sash you tie around your waist. These can usually be rented at each temple for a small fee.
All of the temples in the town hold evening Balinese dance performances, some not every night of the week but you will always find one that will be on. The performances last around an hour portraying traditional culture and spirituality.
Ubud is lovely to wander around but if you want to escape the busy town center and admire some peaceful tropical scenery there are a few walks that you can do from the town.
The first one we did was the Campuhan Ridge Walk which is an easy walk along the ridge offering beautiful jungle and rice field views. It’s not a long walk around 3 miles there and back as you do have to come back on yourself.
There’s lots of places to stop along the way to enjoy lunch or a coffee and take in the lush surroundings.
Another popular walk is the Sweet Orange trail also know as the Rice fields walk.
We just followed google maps to access the trails as they are often quite hidden. But all the walks I’ve mentioned are accessed from the main busy road through Ubud. This walk is a loop trail which takes around an hour and brings you back into town through the art market.
This was the sweetest walk, not only was the scenery amazing as it takes you through rural Bali where smiling rice farmers attend their crops. It then leads to a pathway where people have been able to leave messages on the paving stones. The pathway went on for quite awhile with message after message.
This seems to be a trend as we saw more of this around the town itself with messages etched into the pave stones. We found it very enchanting and another quirky thing that makes this place so unique.
The last trail we walked in Ubud was the Sari Organic walk which again is accessed from the town centre. This paved walkway through the rice fields was our favourite, it was a little piece of heaven so tropical and lush it was my idea of the garden of Eden. You could cafe crawl all day long as you walk this beautiful trail and we passed lovely places to stay which we would definitely consider if we were to return.
As the sun sets over the lush, tranquil landscapes of Ubud a different kind of magic awakens.
Its nightlife offers an enchanting experience all its own and there is an abundance of activities to do in Ubud at Night.
Many of the bars have live music or if you prefer just to dine there are so many beautiful restaurants offering Indonesian and international cuisine to choose from.
If you want to immerse yourself in Balinese culture, visit Ubud Palace or one of the other temples for an evening of traditional Balinese dance called a Leong Dance.
There is definitely something for everyone here.
On our last day in Ubud we couldn’t quite decide what to do. Many people hire a driver for the day and visit nearby waterfalls and temples.
However studying the map we found another monkey forest which was only 45 minutes drive away.
I think it’s become clear by now that we love monkeys so we couldn’t resist and decided to take a taxi.
This one is called the ‘Sangeh Monkey forest’ and is a protected jungle area in central Bali with hundreds of friendly (but wild) monkeys to photograph.
It’s not quite as well known as the one in the centre of Ubud but this one is much quieter, cheaper, and less crowded.
It’s a bit bigger too, with 14 hectares (35 acres) of jungle with relics of a 17th century Hindu temple in the centre.
We were so glad we came as we found here the monkeys are a lot more interactive.
They do give you a bag of monkey nuts when you pay your admission and it’s not long before the monkeys are up on your lap or shoulders to get a treat.
The same instructions apply here to not give too much eye contact. But if you just move around slowly and observe they won’t do you any harm.
Apparently there are 3 different groups of monkeys that live here at Sangeh. We walked down one quiet pathway in the forest and came across a group so big that to be honest it was a bit intimidating so we did an about turn slowly headed back to where there was more people.
There are plenty of guides about so if any of the monkey get up to too much mischief the guides only have to show them a sling shot and they soon scarper.
We had another amazing day and took far too many photographs but it’s hard not too.
This brought our time in Ubud to an end and we have absolutely loved it. Up to now this place is right up there as my favourite and we will be sad to leave. Hopefully we will return one day and maybe get to leave a message on one of those pave stones.
However it’s always good to leave on a high.
Next we are island hopping so will leave Bali for the time being and head to our first island which is Nusa Lembongan.
It’s only a short boat ride from Pandang Bai on the mainland and will hopefully take us away from the maddening crowds to more relaxed Island vibes.
Nusa Lembongan
It was only a short 30 minute boat ride from the town of Pandang bai on Bali over to Nusa Lembongan which would be the first Island we was to visit as we planned to island hop for the next few weeks.
The journey although short was eventful, we dropped people first at the neighbouring island of Penida then continued to Lembongan. We came in at the back of the island in a channel between Lembongan and Cenigan island which is connected by ‘Yellow bridge’ which is an iconic bridge for pedestrians and scooters only.
Our boat was too large to dock at the island so we all had to disembark at a floating pier and continue to the island on a small boat.
We were staying on the other side of the island from where the boat docked so we needed to find transport.
Transport is limited but they do have taxi trucks which navigate the island which are basically pick up trucks with bench seats in the back.
There was a row of them waiting as we came off the boat to take people across the island.
The only issues here is you don’t have much bartering power so generally the price they say is what you’ll have to pay or walk.
So we overpaid and were quickly on our way across the island to our hotel.
Straight away we felt the island vibes passing through local villages along the way.
Lembongan is only a small island measuring 8 square kilometres.
We wasn’t here to do very much we planned to walk the beaches and maybe go on a boat trip but the general idea was to kick back and chill out and I think this would be the perfect place to do just that.
Nusa Lembongan is another island popular for surfing but from here they cannot surf straight off the beach surfers have to head out to where you can see the reef and where the waves break. Little boats will ferry the surfers to and throw to where the surf is.
We walked from the beach at Jungutbatu where we were staying and as beautiful as it is, it isn’t the best section of beach to walk as the sand is made up of broken coral. The sea is beautiful though, it’s so clear and dotted along the beach there’s lots of beach bars and restaurants.
As we neared the end of the beach we saw a pathway leading around the headland. We were so glad we came across it as there was a boardwalk which took you past some beautiful hotels with restaurants overlooking the ocean.
It’s also from this point that you have the view of Mount Agung over on Bali which is their highest Volcano. It was often obscured with clouds but every now and then the summit would peak through the clouds.
We followed the path around and it led us to an amazing little bay with powder white sand and a couple of beach cafes. It was the perfect place to stop for a swim and sunbathe for a while.
We saw the path continued so we decided to follow it further.
It was a lovely coastal path passing by more luxury resorts and then down to another beach called Tamarind beach. We headed back after that but it was a great walk which I’m sure we would do again.
As the sun goes down most people head to the beach to witness the most amazing sunsets. The beach bars are set up with bean bags where you can relax with a drink and take it all in.
We’ve seen a lot of beautiful sunsets by now but it’s hard to tire of this amazing spectacle especially after the sun has dipped below the horizon and the fleeting colours of dusk seem to fade away, it’s difficult to not admire.
There’s also an abundance of restaurants to choose along the beach and throughout the town, local Warungs selling Indonesian food and many serving international food to cater for all tastes and budgets.
We came across the most amazing bakery that made fresh sourdough, bagels and pastries perfect for breakfast.
Boat trips are a popular excursion from the island. The reef surrounding the island is fantastic for snorkelling and just off Penida island it’s home to Manta Rays which can be often seen at the aptly named Manta point.
So we booked a tour which would visit 3 areas in the hope to see them.
The trip was amazing we got to see Turtles, Dolphins and the most colourful fish amongst the reef.
Around Manta point the sea was too choppy so we didn’t get to see any Manta Ray.
We still went into the ocean at this spot which was so deep you could not see the bottom and being choppy it was low visibility making it difficult to see anything so we had to move on.
The Manta Ray do tend to stay deep so divers will most probably get to see them more than if snorkelling but they do often come to the surface, unfortunately for us it wasn’t to be
At our last snorkelling spot around mangrove point the reef was so colourful. The current here was very strong so our guide said don’t worry let the current take you and just admire the reef and sea life along the way and the boat would catch us up.
It was a strange feeling, gliding along like we were on a lazy river. We passed a few turtles but you couldn’t stop we just had to go with the flow.
It was a brilliant day trip, we wasn’t disappointed we didn’t see the Manta Ray as that’s nature and we still got to see lots of other beautiful sea-life.
We decided to venture further around the island on one of our walks. We retraced our footsteps back to Tamarind bay and then continued further around the coast to Hidden beach which was a lovely small cove occupied by a few people. You couldn’t get into the sea here as the coral came right up to the beach but it’s still a nice place to relax.
After Hidden beach is Mushoom Bay which is a charming little village filled lots of shops, cafes, restaurants and guesthouses.
It’s only a small bay but the sea looks beautiful to swim and again it’s lined with a few beach restaurants. There would definitely be enough here to stay for a few nights and we would consider that if we were to return.
We really liked the vibe here it’s such a relaxed place. The local people were so kind and welcoming a prime example was when we moved hotels after deciding to stay longer, the hotelier from the first hotel kindly took my rucksack on his moped to our next hotel. (He was booked up by the way or else we would have stayed there).
We could have probably chilled here for a few weeks but we’ve more island hopping to do.
Next we take the ferry a little bit further to the Gili islands which are 3 small islands off Lombok. The first one we will visit is Gili Trawangan which is apparently the party island and the liveliest of the three so we better get our dancing shoes on.
Gili Trawangan
Our next stop on our island hopping adventure was to the Gili Islands which are a group of 3 tiny islands, Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air near the coast of northwest Lombok Island.
The 1st island of the Gili’s we were visiting was Gili Trawangan known as ‘Gili T’.
The boat journey from Nusa Lembongan takes around 3 and half hours.
They put us on a smaller boat at first which was rammed to the rafters, thankfully that only went to the neighbouring island of Nusa Penida where we all transferred onto a more substantial boat.
The crossing was quite smooth as this stretch of water is known to be quite choppy.
When we were only a few hundred meters away from the jetty at Gili T one of the engines failed and we ended up on the boat another hour whilst the crew fixed the problem. I suppose it was better breaking down there than in the middle of the ocean.
When we finally made it to dry land we were met by hoards of people at the islands small ferry terminal. It was chaotic fighting our way through the crowds with our bags up to the Main Street.
The only form of transport on the Gili islands is horse drawn carts or bicycle so at the entrance of the ferry terminal we were met by more crowds plus bikes and horses. Being such a popular island the area just along here is always busy with people coming and going.
We managed to fight through the crowds to eventually cross the road. We were staying just a couple of streets back from what’s known as ‘The strip’ so hopefully we would just be just far enough away from the chaos.
Gili T is known as the busiest of the 3 islands and also as the party island, this little island packs quite a punch when it comes to nightlife.
We couldn’t wait to explore this small island measuring 3km wide and 2km long.
We loved the look and feel of the island immediately even the chaos around the ferry terminal still had a good vibe.
The island is fringed with white sand beaches and turquoise sea.
We walked back to the strip and once we got past the busy terminal it wasn’t too bad.
The strip is lined with lots of bars and restaurants and then in between there are shops and boutiques. Across the street on the beach side it’s full of beach bars and vendors sellling souvenirs and food carts selling BBQ’d sweetcorn and little pancakes stalls.
As no motorised vehicles on the island Horse drawn carts are used both by locals to carry goods and also to transport tourists and their luggage around the island.
You can hear the horses approach as they have bells on their harnesses and the driver has a horn.
It’s refreshing to see no cars but you still have to take care crossing the road due to the amount of cyclist along with the horse drawn carts. Lots of people rent bikes on the island as it’s a great way to get about.
We had been given a recommendation for a good restaurant which was in the centre of the island so we decided to go in search of that.
The streets away from the strip are where you see real island life and a million miles away from party central.
Small communities live in rustic homes, cattle and chickens wander the streets. It was nice to see village life as we passed by little shops and local Warungs. Everyone is so friendly and always say hello.
The locals are predominantly Muslim unlike in Bali where most are Hindu so you hear the call to prayers throughout the day from the mosque.
We found the restaurant and it was indeed a good recommendation, we also enjoyed the walk and got to see another side of the island.
The next day we decided to walk the whole coast of the island. Luckily there is a road that goes all the way around making it a nice walk.
We headed in a clockwise direction and as we got away from the busy strip around the east coast we passed by lots of beautiful resorts and some lovely restaurants.
Beach bars are still dotted about but the south and west coast is definitely the quieter area of the island where you could have a beach all to yourself.
As we got to the north of the island it starts to get a little busier as this stretch of beach is good for turtle spotting. Theres lots of little beach bars all renting snorkelling equipment to see the turtles.
We decided to stop here for a swim and were lucky to see a turtle after only a few minutes.
We then continued back towards the strip and the chaos around the ferry terminal.
We really enjoyed the walk. We tracked it and it measured 5 and a half miles the whole way around.
As nighttime falls upon Gili T the bars and restaurants turn on their lights and music. Happy hours, pub crawls and live music can be found along the strip. It doesn’t get busy until late so you don’t have to be in the middle of the action if you don’t want. There are still lots of beach bars with chilled music if you want a more relaxed vibe.
The choice of restaurants is endless with many offering seafood and meat BBQ’s.
We stayed out late one night after getting chatting to a group of Aussies and a British couple so we witnessed the pub crawl in full swing and the madness of the young partygoers and making our way home in the early hours with a kebab in tow it was still going full belt.
There are no dogs on island but there are lots of cats. In regard to wild animals I saw a few chipmunks and we were told they do have wild deer of which some friends did witness.
Diving is very popular as Gili T has an incredible array of dive sites within a very short distance of eachother.
Snorkelling trips are another popular excursion, we love to snorkel so we booked the 3 island tour.
The reef is beautiful around all 3 islands. We headed 1st towards Gili Meno to a popular area with Turtles. It wasn’t long before we saw them. One of them was huge, the biggest turtle we have ever seen.
The guys from the boats have GoPro’s to capture underwater photographs from the tour and then share with the group.
At one point Shane ended up with the wrong group and said he had some brilliant pictures diving down with the large turtle and then realised it wasn’t even our guide, so we never got to see those photos.
All wasn’t lost though as we managed to get some good photos especially at our 2nd stop which is where the underwater sculptures are at Gili Meno.
The underwater sculptures are called ‘Nest’ and depicts a circle of 48 life-size embracing couples encircle with more figures curled up on the seafloor.
The interlocking pieces connect to provide a platform for marine life to colonise and inhabit.
The sculptures were Commissioned by BASK, an ecologically conscious island resort and gifted to the local community.
We’d seen this sculpture many times on social media so it was amazing to finally see it for ourselves and to be able to dive down around it.
We had one more stop where we saw more beautiful sea life and Shane spotted a small shark, he said a bit too loud there was a shark probably frightening the group. It was only a harmless small reef shark which are common in these waters.
Our last stop was Gili Air where we stopped for lunch before returning back to Gili T.
We had a brilliant day and met some great people, we had some laughs as well especially with the 3 Irish girls that has been partying all night and hadn’t been to bed.
They just about survived the day and on the way back they all lay on the front of the boat to try and sleep. Without warning an almighty wave crashed over the boat soaking the girls and throwing them back into the boat. The most hilarious thing was one of the girls had a beer in her hand and didn’t spill a drop.
We enjoyed our time on Gili T but we want to see all 3 so we are moving onto the next island Gili Meno which is known as the honeymoon island and the quietest of the 3 with a more laid back vibe.
Gili Meno
Our next stop in the Gili’s was to the neighbouring island of Gili Meno which was only a 10 minute boat ride from Gili T.
This island is known to be the quietest of the 3 and nicknamed the honeymoon island. It’s a great place if you want a taste of real island life and that laid back lifestyle.
We arrived at a much quieter Jetty and there was just a few horse drawn carts waiting if anyone needed transportation. Conveniently we were in walking distance to our accommodation and as we set off we were welcomed to the island by people we passed by.
You could sense the more relaxed vibe compared to the crowds on ‘Gili T’ as we headed towards our accommodation down the country lanes, it was such a contrast.
It was cute to see little signs on many of the trees giving directions to restaurants and accommodation.
Gili Meno is a very small island. There’s really no need for any transport you can stroll between the beachside cafes and to the mangrove forest and saltwater lake inland with very little effort. You can walk around the whole island in about an hour and because it’s the least visited island of the Gilis, there are fewer tourists and nothing ever gets extremely crowded.
You can still rent bikes here if you prefer to cycle.
It was late afternoon by the time we ventured out so we just headed to the nearest beach which was only a 5 minute walk and enjoyed a couple of cocktails overlooking the idyllic white sand beach and ocean.
As night falls you can head in any direction but make sure you have a torch. There is street lighting most places but the lampposts are quite spaced out so a torch certainly helps.
Beach bars and restaurants are dotted around the island and there’s many local Warungs on the lanes throughout the island.
If you head to the west coast that’s where you can see the most amazing sunsets. There was still live music to be found and one beach bar was putting on a fire show to keep you entertained in the evening.
As we headed home one evening you could still hear the music blasting over from ‘Gili T’ you could even make out some of the tunes they were playing (so much for peace and quiet). Ha
We decided to walk around the whole island one day. The main roads inland are good and paved but in comparison to ‘Gili T’ the coastal path is only a sand track making it a little harder to walk.
We passed by many trees along the beach path where people have dressed them up with coral pieces that have washed up on the beach, I even added a piece myself.
It’s very lush inland with lots of palm trees. It’s much more raw and unspoilt with only a small population of 400 people and this certainly adds to its charm.
It’s a good walk as you pass by stalls selling local handicrafts and beachside cafes where you can stop for a drink or lunch. Many offer sun beds and cabanas to relax and take a swim.
On our walk we passed by the Turtle Sanctuary. Sea turtles are a protected species so at this small hatchery you can see the creatures at every stage of development before release.
As we neared to the west coast of the island this is where you come across ‘Bask’ which is an upmarket resort and beach club. The rooms looked amazing all with private pools, perfect for honeymooners but I can imagine a hefty price tag.
It’s from the beach at Bask that you can see the underwater statues called ‘Nest’.
We saw them when we were on a snorkelling trip from ‘Gili T’ but from here they are only a short swim from the beach and are fast becoming the number one must see attraction on the Gili Islands.
The snorkelling is fantastic here with lovely coral reefs in warm crystal-clear azure water. Whether you go northeast, west or east, there are a variety of areas to explore. Karma Reef in the east brings colourful coral, fish, more turtles, moray eels and star fish.
While the southern part of the island is home to many sea turtles, also on the north coast, Turtle Heaven draws in many giant turtles laying on the seafloor but you do need to join a boat trip to see these as we did.
On Gili Meno there is also a saltwater lake. The lake spans an approximate 8 hectares and is located near the mid-western half of the island. It has a decked walkway all around but unfortunately it’s seen better days with many of the planks broken so we chose to walk around the road running parallel around it instead.
The lake and its surrounding area are locally referred to as ‘Kawasan Ekowisata Mangrove Gili Meno’, a mangrove ecotourism region. Once a dry season traditional salt production site, this shallow lake is thickly bordered by a lush mangrove forest that extends to the island’s western coast. you may spot the odd migrating kingfishers here as well as storks, finches and even eagles. You might also spot watercocks and large monitor lizards.
We had a true taste of island life even down to the power cut plummeting us into complete darkness at the beachside cafe with only the moon as light. We didn’t mind one bit sat there stargazing into the night sky. Outages are quite common especially over the busy months of July and August.
We also had the odd issue with WiFi which we totally accept on a small tropical island it just made it a bit slower to upload content on our site but there’s always another day to catch up.
We truly enjoyed our time on Gili Meno it’s the perfect place for people seeking to truly get away from it all.
It has no party scene in comparison to Gili T and it’s a place to enjoy the sand, the sea, and quiet contemplation.
Next we visit the last of the Gili’s in this group ‘Gili Air’ which is quieter than ‘Gili T’ but not as quiet as ‘Gili Meno’ so sounds like it will be just perfect.
Gili Air
Our last island to visit in the Gili Archipelago was Gili Air. We were looking forward to this one as it read that it wasn’t as lively as Gili T but not as quiet as Gili Meno so it sounded like it met somewhere in the middle.
I booked a room just up the Main Street from the harbour.
Transport was the same as the other Gili islands with horse drawn taxis if you need to make your way further around the island.
Gili Air has an area of 1.73 km², and a circumference of just under 5 km. In terms of size, Gili Air is the second smallest among the three islands. It’s smaller than Gili T but larger than Gili Meno.
As we made our way up the Main Street towards our accommodation we were instantly charmed by the quirky restaurants and cafes and lots of independent shops and boutiques, it most definitely gave a good first impression.
Once settled we headed straight out. We like to try and cover every inch of these small islands exploring on foot all the little streets and pathways.
Lots of people hire bicycles to get around and gaining popularity on the islands are electric scooters. There seemed to be more here than the other islands, even the children ride them.
We thought we would start by walking the whole circumference of the island starting from the harbour south and heading west.
There’s lots of hustle and bustle around the harbour with ‘Cidomo’s’ (horse drawn carriages) picking up and dropping off tourists and stalls selling diving and snorkelling tours.
As we made our way around the island we passed by lots of quirky beach restaurants, beautiful resorts, cute shops and stalls selling local handicrafts.
We noticed the road around this island is a bit half and half, paved in some areas but also sections that are just sand paths.
We walked past a beach club that had an outdoor gym that looked like it belonged in ‘Bedrock’ and a resort that was all pink, pink polka dot painted palm tree, pink flamingos, pink sun loungers, pink bikes, you name it, it was pink.
This island was oozing charm by the bucket load and we were only a quarter of the way around.
It pretty much continued like that the whole way around with just a few sections where it went a bit quieter.
As we neared the east coast we saw that this is the area best for snorkelling and to see the turtles.
You can hire snorkel and fins for a couple of pounds at one of the many stalls along the beach path.
The southeast side is probably the best for swimming with a few areas coral free, however the west coast didn’t look so good for swimming as the tide was out most of the time revealing just the reef.
As night falls on Gili Air the live music starts. We headed in a different direction each night and always found a live band on.
Each we watched were amazing but the best had to be at the north of the island. We walked that way one night as that’s where people head as well as the west side to watch the fabulous sunsets with the silhouette of Bali and its volcano in the distance.
Restaurants and bars in this area line the beach with bean bags and live music was just setting up at the one we chose.
There couldn’t have been a more perfect setting as the sun set behind the horizon, the band playing and a bonfire adding to the ambience.
Dining is good on the island, you can get pretty much everything from local Indonesian food at the many Warungs to many serving international foods.
The restaurants along the beach tend to do seafood BBQ’s which do look amazing.
We even came across a pie shop on the Main Street by the harbour serving the best pies. We will never say no to that much needed home from home treat every now and then.
This island was soon becoming our favourite out of the 3. It’s all personal preference and we hadn’t disliked any but Gili Air was perfect for us.
We loved it so much that we extended our stay but moved to the east coast to a place by the beach with a swimming pool.
Being eco friendly the swimming pool was a freshwater pool with salt water pumped directly from the sea through a coral filter. We had to laugh though when we went for a swim there was a few colourful fish in the pool that must have been brought in from the pipe.
There was also a small pool alongside the swimming pool with some baby turtles.
We spoke to the proprietor who said he rescues the hatchlings that wouldn’t have stood a chance of survival, builds them up before releasing them to give them a higher survival rate.
It was from our hotel on the east side that we witnessed the spectacular sunrise over the lush green mountains and volcanos on neighbouring Lombok Island.
We wasn’t alone as we lay on the sun loungers by the beach, awaiting the rise of the sun at 6:30am.
You feel like you get more value for your day if you’ve actually watched the sunrise and it was so beautiful here in this peaceful place.
By the end of our stay we could probably say we walked every nook and cranny of this small island observing local life alongside visitors in this remote slice of paradise.
We have come across a few places on our travels where we would love to return and Gili Air is now officially added to this list. No heavy traffic, no pollution, enough peace, enough party, enough said!
Next we move onto the neighbouring island of Lombok which is considered by some to be “an unspoilt Bali”, boasting the same fantastic beaches, waterfalls and even bigger volcanoes, but without the huge crowds of tourists.
Lombok
Kuta.
Our next stop was the island of Lombok which is a 15 minute boat ride from Gili Air.
For the last 2 weeks we had been admiring this mountainous island which can be seen from all 3 of the Gili islands.
Lombok is slightly smaller than Bali and measures 50 miles wide and 70 miles long. It’s far less touristy and people often say it’s how Bali used to be before it got overcrowded.
Our first stop was ‘Kuta’ which is a town on the southern coast popular for surfing along with its beautiful beaches.
In a few short years, Kuta has changed from a sleepy seaside village into the main focus of tourism in Lombok.
Not to be mixed up with Kuta in Bali, Kuta Lomboks full name is Kuta Madalika.
Transport isn’t as straightforward on Lombok, taxi hailing app’s like Grab etc don’t seem to cover the whole of the island. We heard of a reliable taxi company called ‘Bluebird’ but they don’t operated in the south of the island so when we exited the ferry we would have to see our options.
We didn’t have to worry about it for long as we were met by locals all offering taxi services to different parts of the island. I don’t think any of them were real taxi’s but if it’s how you get around here we would have to go with it.
We agreed a fare and were on our way to Kuta which is a 2 hours drive from the northern ferry terminal in Bangsal.
The first part of the journey started with a climb as the area here is very mountainous. It did give us our first glimpse of just how lush this island is with the hillsides covered in exotic flora.
Lombok is also a volcanic island with ‘Mount Rinjani’ being the second biggest volcano in Indonesia after Sumatra’s Kerinci volcano.
It was mid afternoon by the time we arrived at our hotel in Kuta so we just went for a stroll around the town to get our bearings.
We stopped for a Mango smoothie and the guy asked if we wanted cheese and cream on it.
I thought maybe it was a cream cheese so I said ‘go for it, why not’. It happened to be grated cheddar on top of squirty cream which seemed a bit of a strange concoction but surprisingly it wasn’t too bad. Not sure we’d have it again but at least we tried it.
We continued towards the beach and passed by some lovely cafes, trendy restaurants and lots of local Warungs, there wouldn’t be any problem later choosing somewhere to eat.
Kuta beach is a beautiful bay with a white sand beach, surrounded by hillside and dotted with rock formations.
Unfortunately the tide was out so we wasn’t seeing it at its best but I’m sure we would over the next few days.
We walked to the right of the bay along the beach path and it brought us to a local fishing village which was very rustic with lots of chickens roaming about but it did have a certain charm.
Men were fixing fishing nets and we passed by a lady doing some weaving.
I love to watch the local people go about their day and see the children play, plus the people are all incredibly friendly and always let on as you pass by.
The one thing we did notice here was that the hawkers along the beaches and in the town are very persistent.
Understandably with so few tourists they really are keen for a sale so we definitely got more pestered than we had in a long time.
We got a sense from what we saw so far was that Kuta mainly attracts backpackers and surfers.
The main street is set back from the beach and has quite a hipster vibe. Lined with boutiques, surf shops, a mix of modern restaurants, Mexican, Italian, French, Mediterranean, all with beautiful decor. Then nestled between them was local Warungs, a few bars and pop up stalls selling crepes and donuts.
More bars and restaurants are dotted around the resort. We found a surfers bar closer to the beach front with a great playlist and cheap cocktails that had a really good vibe.
The area around Kuta is known to have some of the best beaches in Lombok so the next day we decided to visit ‘Tanjung Aan beach’ which was 6 miles from the centre of Kuta.
We had read that it was a hidden gem considered to be one of the most picturesque beaches set in a cove between hilly landscapes with sparkling white sand and crystal clear water.
Most tourists hire scooters to get about especially here as there isn’t much public transport. We like to walk so we decided to see if we could walk along the coast. We could see on the map there was 3 bays before reaching ‘Tanjung Aan’.
We set off across Kuta beach which was picturesque as the tide was in then followed a path around the headland leading us onto the next bay ‘Mandalika beach’.
This stretch of beach passes by two very luxurious resorts, we cut through the grounds of one of them just to see how the other half live.
Exiting the grounds we carried on towards the next headland.
In the distance there was a row of stalls where local people were selling snacks and fresh coconuts and just in front we noticed some statues in the sea which we found out to be called the ‘Mandalika princess statue’. There was no signage or explanation of their significance but they made an interesting photograph.
We then had to cross over a rather dodgy looking bamboo bridge that led us to the next bay called ‘Seger beach’.
Here we watched local people farming seaweed. Mainly women collect the seaweed then dry it out in rows or on racks on the land, after the seaweed is perfectly dried, they send it to local factories for further process.
Seaweed is one of Indonesia’s leading commodities that has great benefits for the economy.
This bay here is also good to surf so we watched a few surfers catching the waves as we stopped in a small Warung to rest and have a well earned drink.
Kuta is also home to a relatively new world-class motorcycle racing track called the ‘Pertamina Mandalika International Circuit’ which hosts the annual MotoGP.
We had to pass by the circuit at this stage of the walk as there was no direct route to continue along the coast.
Luckily we only had to walk a small stretch of road before joining a pathway that finally led us down to ‘Tanjung Aan beach’.
The only downside to us walking all the way was that when we finally arrived the sea was out making the beach look a little less outstanding as it would have been with the tide in.
It was still a beautiful beach lined with restaurants offering sun loungers and bean bags and somewhere to hang out.
Many people come here late afternoon and stay to watch the sunset but we couldn’t stick around for that as we still had a long walk back.
The walk back wouldn’t be quite as interesting as dusk was approaching so it was better for us to stick to the main roads.
It didn’t end up as bad as we thought as we got to walk around a large section of the MotoGP circuit and the pavements and walkway along this stretch of road are all new and landscaped.
By the time we got back we’d walked 13 miles and was absolutely shattered but we’d had an amazing day and I think there is no nicer feeling than earning your supper.
We were only staying in Kuta a few days and wanted to make the most of our time here so we arranged a private tour to visit the pink beaches and snorkelling around Gili Petelu.
We were picked up early the next morning as it’s a 90 minute drive to where we would get the boat.
The drive itself was scenic and our guide was very informative along the way.
Lots of different crops are grown on Lombok but one of the main ones is Tobacco. We passed field after field of tobacco plants and harvested tobacco was being dried out on long sheets of tarpaulin along the roadside, in driveways and gardens.
When rainy season comes the fields that grew the tobacco is then replaced with rice which is also one of the major crops on the island.
We joined the boat and headed out to the first pink beach we would visit on the itinerary.
Even though the pink beaches are accessible by car we heard that the roads are poor so it’s popular to reach them by boat.
There’s only a handful of pink beaches in the world so we felt fortunate that we would get to see a couple of them.
Seeing the pink beach come into view from the boat was amazing.
The pink tinged sand has formed from the red coral reef living in the water. As the reef crumbles away, it washes onto the shore and combines with the white sand, giving it that perfect pink colour.
The beach then showcases a beautiful colour palette of white, pink, blue and turquoise.
Continuing on our tour we stopped to snorkel amongst the beautiful reef. We saw so many colourful fish, starfish and lots of Clownfish (Nemo’s). There was even a concrete slab on the sea bed with the words ‘Finding Nemo’ upon it (unfortunately some of the letters were missing).
We continued to the second pink beach where we stopped for lunch. At this beach we were able to climb up the hill to the cliffs where there was incredible views over bays on both sides.
We snorkelled at 2 more locations around ‘Gili Petelu’ seeing more incredible sea-life and an eerie underwater cave.
Our guide dived down and picked up a blue starfish and placed in my hand. It didn’t feel real it was solid like stone, hard to believe it’s a living creature.
The last stop was to a sandbank which is only visible when the tide is low. We were able to anchor up and walk the sandbank which is home to lots of starfish. They also didn’t look real, I held one again and it just felt like a solid piece of rubber. If I hadn’t seen one of them move you’d think they were fake.
Shane submerged them back into the sea when we were leaving as he was worried for them left on the sand exposed to the sun.
What an incredible day we had being able to witness such natural beauty and amazing creatures.
We finished off our perfect day with a few cocktails at the surf bar.
We’d only been in Kuta a few days but we think we made the most of what the area has to offer.
Next we move inland to the small village of ‘Tetebatu’ on the foothills of ‘Mount Rinjani’ known for its rice fields, waterfalls and Monkey forest.
Tetebatu
Our next stop on Lombok was inland to the small village of Tetebatu which is located on the foothills of Mount Rinjani.
People often call Tetebatu the ‘Ubud of Lombok’ due to the vast terraced rice fields and waterfalls there.
We also heard it had a monkey forest so that sealed our decision to visit.
We asked the hotel if they could arrange transportation from Kuta. With taxis being more limited this is often the best way to navigate the island, especially from the south.
We were given a fair price for the 2 hour journey inland.
Many people visit Tetebatu as it’s a good base if you are there to climb Mount Rinjani. Many tours start from the village offering various 2-3 day hiking trips with overnight camps.
We wasn’t here to climb ‘Rinjani’ (although I can imagine it’s a spectacular thing to do).
We were still here to do lots of walking but much less strenuous.
There’s a handful of places to stay in and around the town. Quaint homestays (b&b’s) and small resorts.
We stayed in the most beautiful place which had individual bungalows overlooking the rice fields and Mount Rinjani as a backdrop.
There’s Accommodation for all budgets, if your on a really tight budget rooms can be found here for as little as £7 per night.
Around the town there’s a few cafes and convenience stores but that’s about it, this place is very quiet, somewhere to disconnect and spend time in nature.
We were only staying for a few days so the first thing we wanted to do was visit the Monkey forest (of course we did, being no1 monkey fans) ha!
The forest was just a few miles from our hotel so we decided to walk.
As we passed through the village we were met with curious but friendly gazes followed by greetings or a subtle nod, children would giggle and wave shyly from behind their parents.
The Sasak people of Tetebatu, deeply rooted in their traditional ways are known for their kindness. It was lovely to get such a warm welcome.
We enjoyed the walk towards the forest passing lush hilly countryside and rice paddy fields.
Traditional homes with gardens filled with an abundance of plants, and fruit trees. It reminded us of the Lake District albeit a tropical version.
The roads were quiet and it just had a nice laid back feel surrounded by beautiful nature.
The monkey forest here is very different to the ones we had visited in Bali. The monkeys that live here are clearly less used to humans than the cheeky monkeys of Bali. They stay at a distance and prefer to be high in the trees. The forested area is home to Grey Macaque and Black Langurs. We hoped to see the black monkeys as it was a specie we hadn’t seen before.
You pay a small fee (around £1) to enter the forest and then just follow the pathways and keep a look out.
We had the forest pretty much to ourselves and only saw 4 other tourists as we explored.
Some local people working in the forest pointed us in a direction to where we may see the black monkey and true to their word we saw a family of black langur high in the trees.
We enjoyed watching them as they leapt from tree to tree but unfortunately wasn’t able to photograph them close up as they stayed high in the canopy.
We saw a group of Macaques and a just one more black monkey as we went deeper into the forest. I’m not sure how many monkeys live here, the forest covers quite a large area so it can just be luck of the draw if you get to see them.
The area has its fair share of waterfalls so as we headed back into town we made a diversion to visit one of them.
You have to pay a small fee (around 50p) to see the waterfall, so we paid and headed down the steep steps to were we could here the water rushing.
It wasn’t the biggest waterfall we had ever seen but the setting was still impressive surrounded by rice terraces.
We’d covered a fair amount of miles by the time we got back to the hotel so we were happy to unwind and have an early night.
Next morning we woke up to a clear view of Mount Rinjani and surrounding range. The volcano is often blanketed in cloud as it had been the previous day so we were grateful to see it in full view.
We decided we would spend the whole day walking and exploring the lush countryside.
The area is surrounded by natural beauty. It was a pleasure to walk as the air is fresher as a cool breeze comes down from the mountain, offering a reprieve from the tropical heat.
It was so peaceful, the only sounds coming from small waterfalls, or the distant call to prayer from nearby mosques.
We followed narrow paths meandering through rice paddies, where farmers tend to their crops using traditional methods.
The region is also known for growing vanilla, cloves, and tobacco. Cloves were laid out to dry on large sheets of tarpaulin and the smell was amazing.
Tetebatu was literally a breath of fresh air. Life moves at a slower pace here, with little to disturb the natural beauty away from the hustle and bustle of crowded tourist spots.
It was a peaceful escape and offered us a glimpse into rural Indonesian life.
Next we head to Senggigi which is one of Lombok’s most popular coastal destinations, known for its relaxed vibe and stunning beach views.
Senggigi
Our last stop in Lombok was ‘Senggigi’ which is one of Lombok’s most popular destinations stretching along the island’s western coast.
Senggigi was the first tourist destination on the island, it began developing as a tourist hub in the 1980s and 1990s, similar to how Kuta and Ubud emerged as tourism centers in Bali.
After we arrived, we took a leisurely stroll, exploring the area and new surroundings.
We made our way to the beach but just as we arrived the skies darkened and it started to rain.
The rain quickly intensified, transforming from a gentle drizzle into a relentless tropical downpour. Seeking shelter under a bamboo gazebo in a fancy beachside resort with the rain hammering down around us, we were stranded, unable to move. There was no letting up so after an hour we had no choice but to continue. The downpour soaked us within minutes as we made our way back to the hotel but at least it was warm rain.
The rain settled in for the rest of the day with no sign of stopping so we would just have to continue our exploring the following day.
Despite the rain we had no choice but to head out for dinner. With umbrellas in hand, we braved the drizzle and not long after the rain finally stopped.
Senggigi has a growing number of restaurants and bars, offering everything from local Indonesian cuisine to Western food.
After dinner we continued for a drink and came across a bar we liked the look of just around the corner.
As we settled in at the bar, it didn’t take long to notice something amusing about the manager. His smile was just a little too wide, his laugh a touch too loud, and when he poured drinks, he missed the glass more often than not. He wobbled slightly as he moved around barefooted and every time he tried to focus on something serious, he’d get hilariously sidetracked, usually by a passing thought or a song he suddenly felt the need to sing along to. It became clear this wasn’t just a lively personality, the bar manager was extremely drunk. In fact the whole place was filled with interesting characters of who we engaged in conversation. We christened the place the ‘Star Wars Bar’ and we absolutely loved it.
We awoke the next day to clearer skies, a stark contrast to the storm of the previous day.
Finally we could explore as we set off back towards the beach.
The coastline around Senggigi is dotted with several picturesque bays, each offering its own charm.
Senggigi bay where we were staying is the central bay around which Senggigi town is built. It features a long, crescent-shaped beach and the calm waters make it a great spot for swimming, snorkeling, and sunset views.
We decided to walk southwards and explore the beaches in that direction.
We were sad to see that on the next bay, once a stretch of pristine sand, was sadly marred by plastic waste. Bottles, bags, and bits of debris tangled among the seaweed.
On our travels it’s not the first time we have seen this. However after speaking with one of the expats he explained that they do a clean up but generally once a week so unfortunately we must have seen it at its worst and the storm contributed.
We continued our walk to the next bay and headed away from the touristy areas.
As we walked along the beach, we passed by small clusters of makeshift homes where local families lived, their simple structures made from bamboo, wood, and corrugated tin.
Children played barefoot in the sand while a few older villagers sat under tarps, chatting and cooking on an open fire.
They had several cows who stood and lay calmly in the sun, munching on bits of vegetables that had been scattered around them. The ropes around their necks allowed them to wander a few steps in either direction, but they seemed content with their small patch of sandy ground.
After a long walk, we made our way back to the hotel and decided the next day we would head in the opposite direction.
We couldn’t resist returning for another night at the “Star Wars bar.” Once again, we found ourselves in the company of an eclectic crowd, mostly expats with fascinating stories to share. We happily played the role of eager listeners. It got that late even the bar manager retired to bed and left the keys with one of his trusty patrons who then became part time bar man until we left at daft o’clock.
The bar’s quirky charm and its colorful characters made us look forward to revisit.
The following day we headed along the coast in the opposite direction. The first bay we walked to was around the headland called Kerandangan Bay.
The stretch of beach here has black volcanic sand and backed by lush greenery. This bay is known for its tranquil vibe, with fewer crowds and just a couple of resorts.
The beach a little further up is lined with coconut trees and little huts that serve as rest areas for visitors. Some huts are also used by local fishermen or as small eateries selling drinks and snacks.
These huts contribute to the tranquil and unspoiled charm of Kerandangan Bay, blending seamlessly with the natural surroundings.
While we were at the beach, a group of children from a nearby village, on a school trip, approached us with wide smiles.
They eagerly asked if they could take photos with us, and we gladly agreed.
Their excitement was contagious, and their genuine interest made the moment truly heartwarming. Before long, a larger crowd had gathered.
We felt like celebrities, their enthusiastic requests and the line of smiling faces waiting for their turn made us feel like we were in the spotlight.
The area around here is so lush and the picturesque coastline is made even more stunning by the mountain backdrop covered in dense tropical forest that rises behind it.
The next bay along is also named Senggigi beach. The beach here is beautifully maintained, with soft, golden sand leading into clear, calm waters. The beach is lined with luxury 4 & 5 star resorts and exudes a sense of exclusivity blending luxury with a laid-back beach atmosphere.
As well as a beach club the bay has a few local Warungs and sunset bar.
This was as far as we could go as the sky clouded over once more, signaling the approach of another downpour. With dark clouds above we decided it was best to head back to the hotel.
We chose to return via the road rather than the beach, opting for a more straightforward route to avoid getting caught in the rain.
After catching up with new friends, we somehow drifted back to the ‘Star Wars bar’ before our final day in Senggigi.
Eager to explore more of the coast, we decided to take a taxi back to the point we had reached the previous day and continue our journey from there. This way, we could maximise our time discovering the beautiful coastal scenery and make the most of our remaining time.
Taxis are generally easier to find in here compared to Kuta Mandalika and rural Lombok.
Senggigi, being a more developed and established tourist area, has a higher availability of taxis and ride-hailing services so we used one called ‘Bluebird taxis’ which are a reputable company in the area similar to ‘Grab’.
We retraced our steps along Senggigi Beach, then had to join the road to navigate around the headland. The route took us uphill, winding around the rocky outcrop before eventually leading us to Klui beach
We were rewarded with stunning views and a bit of adventure as we made our way to this tranquil, scenic beach.
Klui beach (Pantai Klui) is adorned with tall palm trees that line the beach and enhance its tropical feel.
The tranquil setting is also home to several 5 star luxury resorts.
We were truly impressed by the beaches along Lombok’s coast. They offered a stark contrast to the bustling beaches of Bali, with their peaceful, almost deserted stretches of sand.
After walking for miles over the past few days, we found it all worthwhile as we were rewarded with breathtaking scenery.
That’s why we prefer walking over hiring a scooter. By strolling along, we immerse ourselves more fully in the surroundings, allowing us to appreciate every detail of the landscape and local culture.
We made a point to return to the ‘Star Wars Bar’ for one last hurrah. We couldn’t leave without bidding farewell to our newfound friends and saying our goodbyes.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Senggigi. It’s one of those places that truly grows on you the longer you stay, revealing its charm and appeal each day.
By the end of our visit, Senggigi had woven its way into our hearts, leaving us with lasting memories and a deep appreciation for its unique allure.
As our time on Lombok has drawn to a close, we prepare to return to Bali for our final week in Indonesia. Lombok has offered us unforgettable experiences, but now it’s time to head back to the vibrant island of Bali to complete our Indonesian adventure.
Bali
Sanur.
Our next and final destination in Indonesia was back on the Island of Bali.
We booked a ferry from the port town of Bangsal Lombok to Sanur.
The drive from Senggigi to Bangsal is nothing short of breathtaking. The road winds along the coast and offers panoramic views of turquoise bays with pristine white beaches. On one side, the shimmering Indian Ocean, while on the other, lush green hills of the Lombok’s mountains.
We wasn’t altogether looking forward to this boat crossing especially as we were using the fast boats which can be choppy, particularly during this time of year.
The Lombok Strait, which separates Lombok from Bali, is known for its strong currents and can become quite rough, especially from June to September when the southeast monsoon winds are at their peak.
Shane often gets seasick so he took his usual spot at the back of the boat, hoping the fresh air would save him from the inevitable. We set off, first heading to the Gili Islands to drop off and pick up passengers.
As luck would have it, the waters were their usual restless selves, something we were all too familiar with from previous visits.
The boat couldn’t dock right away, so we spent a few minutes bobbing around. Out of nowhere, a massive wave decided to crash over the back of the boat, soaking Shane head to toe and here we were, barely 15 minutes into the 4 hour crossing.
The first half of the crossing was no better, the waves often so high sending the boat crashing down onto the sea with an almighty thud.
Some passengers were screaming, while others had already succumbed to seasickness. One poor crew member was running up and down the boat distributing sick bags. I decided the best course of action was to close my eyes and pretend none of this was happening. After all, I figured the captain must deal with this kind of chaos on a regular basis – at least, I hoped he did!
Shane and a few other unlucky souls were forced to return inside the cabin for their own safety. Soaked to the bone Shane made a bold choice, instead of finding a seat like everyone else, he plopped down on the floor by the back door so he could at least still get some fresh air.
To everyone’s relief, the sea finally settled around the halfway point. The mood onboard shifted, with passengers gradually relaxing.
Shane even ventured back outside, this time with far less chance of an unexpected drenching.
We were so happy when we saw Sanur come into view and see solid land drawing near.
It had definitely been an adventure that I’m sure we wouldn’t forget nor one to repeat anytime soon!
Sanur is a laid-back coastal town on the southeastern side of Bali, known for its relaxed atmosphere and long stretches of sandy beach. Unlike the bustling nightlife of Kuta or Seminyak, Sanur is a lot more tranquil.
Back on Bali, with multiple hailing taxi services available again we quickly booked a ride straight to our hotel, which thankfully wasn’t far from the pier.
After such a long day we were exhausted and starving.
Our hotel was conveniently located just behind the newly opened ICON BALI shopping mall, which had only made its debut in June of this year. This modern complex became our perfect shortcut, allowing us to easily pass through to the beachfront pathway which is lined with a variety of restaurants, it was the ideal spot to grab a bite to eat and unwind by the sea.
After dinner, we planned to take a quick stroll along the beach pathway and call it a night. But just down the road, we passed a lively bar where a young English couple were giving it their all on karaoke with a group of locals.
As we walked by they shouted for us to join them. We laughed it off and kept walking, but after a few steps, we couldn’t resist, we made a U-turn and decided to stop in for “one for the road.”
Well, that one drink quickly turned into two, and before we knew it, we were belting out songs ourselves. We finally stumbled back to the hotel at some ridiculous hour, but honestly, after the day we’d had, it was exactly what we needed!
The next day, we were excited to meet up with friends from the Uk who now live in Australia and were visiting Bali for their holiday. They were staying at a stunning beachfront hotel, so we once again cut through the mall and made our way down the beach path. This was the first time we were seeing the promenade in daylight, and it was even more charming than we had imagined.
The beachfront pathway is perfect for walking with its wide lanes divided into one for bikes and another for pedestrians. Lined with cozy cafes, local warungs, and small shops selling Balinese crafts. The sea breeze and laid back vibe made it the ideal spot to soak in the island’s charm as we headed to meet our friends for lunch.
After a fantastic afternoon catching up with our friends, we decided to head back to the hotel and unwind for the evening. A little downtime was just what we needed to recharge so we could fully explore Sanur the next day.
We love a good walk, so the next morning we returned to the beach promenade, eager to explore the miles of paved pathway that stretch along the coast. Cyclists and joggers zipped past, taking full advantage of this perfect spot for their daily exercise.
We strolled for hours, the gentle sea breeze offering a welcome relief from the heat, making the walk even more enjoyable. Along the way, we stopped for lunch at one of the charming beachfront cafes and watched the world go by.
Lined with palm trees and dotted with traditional fishing boats, the promenade has a relaxed tropical vibe. You can rent sun-beds at many places along the beach and enjoy the shallow waters. When the tide is out it’s not the best beach to swim but lots of people lay in shallow pools between the coral to cool down.
Along the beach is ‘Sanur Turtle Hatchery’ which is a dedicated conservation facility focused on protecting and nurturing sea turtles. This hatchery plays a vital role in safeguarding turtle eggs, which are collected from nests along the beach and transferred to the hatchery to ensure their survival.
Visitors to the hatchery can learn about the different species of sea turtles, the challenges they face, and the ongoing conservation efforts. There are often opportunities to see hatchlings being released into the ocean, a heartwarming and educational experience.
Sanur attracts a diverse mix of nationalities, but like much of Bali, it is particularly popular among Australians. Its appeal lies as it’s a short flight from many of its major cities. It’s also extremely family friendly as the calm shallow waters are ideal for children to swim and play safely.
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We also thoroughly enjoyed the new ICON Bali Mall as it was conveniently located just a short walk from our hotel, perfect for a bit of retail therapy. While most of our time was spent window shopping, it was a treat to browse familiar brands like M&S and Mango.
The mall also boasts an impressive IMAX cinema and a diverse range of eateries, making it a great spot for both shopping and dining.
Away from the beachfront, Sanur reveals a charming array of shops and restaurants. The town’s main streets and side lanes are lined with a variety of boutique shops offering everything from local handicrafts and souvenirs to stylish clothing and accessories.
Sanur’s inland dining scene offers a range of options to suit every taste. You’ll find cozy local warungs dishing up authentic Indonesian dishes alongside international restaurants serving cuisine from around the globe. We discovered a fantastic bagel shop that quickly became a favorite, tempting us back on several occasions. Another standout was a restaurant renowned for its finger-licking ribs, which were simply irresistible.
Sanur was a wonderful resort we truly enjoyed during our Bali stay. With just a few days left before we leave Indonesia, we’ve decided to spend some downtime at Jimbaran Beach. We don’t plan to do much there, just relax and soak up the tranquil atmosphere before we move on.
Jimbaran
For our final days in Bali, we chose to make the short trip from Sanur to Jimbaran Beach. Our plan was simply to unwind by the beach and pool, and take some time to work on this blog before our departure from Indonesia. It was the perfect way to enjoy a bit of relaxation and reflect on our journey in this beautiful destination.
Jimbaran beach is a coastal village on the southern tip of Bali, renowned for its relaxed, laid-back vibe and beautiful beach. The area is famous for its stunning sunsets and seafood dining, with numerous beachfront restaurants offering freshly grilled fish and other local delicacies right on the sand. The beach itself is known for its soft, golden sands and gentle waves, making it ideal for swimming and leisurely strolls.
From the beach you can see the magnificent iconic ‘Garuda Wisnu Kencana’ (GWK) statue up on the hill. You can take a day trip from Jimbaran to this beautiful cultural destination that features a sprawling parkland, an amphitheatre, a street theatre, shops, restaurants, and the 4th tallest statue in the world.
The local town of Jimbaran is a more traditional Balinese area with a relaxed and authentic atmosphere. Unlike the more tourist regions, Jimbaran offers a glimpse into local life with its bustling markets, shops, and traditional warungs (local eateries). The town is known for its friendly welcoming vibe.
The contrast between the local town and the more developed beachfront areas of Jimbaran highlights the blend of traditional and modern that characterises this part of Bali. It’s a great place to explore if you’re interested in experiencing a more authentic side of the island while still enjoying its beautiful coastal scenery.
Our time in Indonesia has been fantastic, but we feel we’ve only scratched the surface. Even after 7 weeks, there’s still so much more to explore. We’re already thinking about returning to discover more, especially places like Sumatra, Flores, and Komodo. It’s clear that Indonesia has a lot to offer, and we’re excited about the prospect of future adventures.
Next, we’ll experience a stark contrast as we journey to Japan stopping first at its bustling capital, Tokyo. We look forward to explore this vibrant metropolis with its dynamic blend of futuristic skyscrapers, historic temples, and lively neighborhoods.
