Explore Japan. - Midlifers Go East

Tokyo

After a long overnight flight with a stopover in Hà Nội, Vietnam, we finally touched down in Tokyo early morning. Despite our best efforts getting a decent sleep on the plane was as usual a challenge but we managed a few hours and I’m sure we would survive.

Tokyo has two main airports, Haneda, which is closer to the city center, and Narita, where we landed. Although Narita is further out, Japan’s excellent transport infrastructure offers several options for getting into the city.

We chose to travel into the city on the ‘Keisei Skyliner’ which is one of Japans fastest high speed trains (excluding the bullet train). It takes just 40 minute on a non Stop service into central Tokyo.

Before leaving the airport and heading to the train, I also made sure to purchase us both a ‘Suica card’ which is a prepaid transport card that makes traveling around Tokyo incredibly convenient.

The Suica card can be used across trains, buses, and the subway system with a simple tap, saving the hassle of waiting in line to buy individual tickets for each journey. It’s essential for navigating the city efficiently and having used a similar card in Hong Kong, we knew how convenient it would be.

As we rode the train into the city, one of the first things that struck us about Japan was just how green and lush the landscape was. The fields and countryside we passed along the way felt surprisingly familiar, almost as if we could have been back home, rather than in the outskirts of one of the world’s largest cities.

The train brought us into Ueno Station, but we still had a short journey ahead to reach our hotel in the district of Asakusa. With several transport options available, we opted for the bus, which was the most convenient choice given our heavy bags.

After such a long journey, we were relieved to discover that our room was ready three hours before the official check-in time. This gave us the perfect opportunity to settle in, freshen up, and get organised before heading back out to explore.

Tokyo is absolutely vast, much larger than I had fully realised before arriving so choosing where to stay can feel overwhelming with so many different neighborhoods spread across the city. The upside, though, is that Tokyo’s amazing transport system makes it easy to get around, no matter where you’re based.

Asakusa.

After some research we opted to stay in ‘Asakusa’ which is one of Tokyo’s most historic districts and offers a glimpse into the city’s past amongst its modern skyline. At its heart is the famous Sensō-ji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest and most significant Buddhist temple so this was where we wanted to explore first.

The bustling Nakamise-dori shopping street leads up to the temple. The area is filled with traditional shops, street food stalls, and vendors selling everything from souvenirs to local crafts, making it a vibrant and lively place to explore.

The area was full of charm with its narrow alleyways and human powered Rickshaws offering tours of the neighbourhood.

The temple dates back to 628 AD and once through the iconic Thunder gate, an imposing red gate with an enormous lantern. This bustling pathway leads to the temple’s second gate, the Hozomon, to the main hall.

The main hall is a stunning display of traditional architecture with intricate carvings and vibrant colours. Smaller shrines and gardens can be found in the grounds as well as the five story pagoda. The area is busy with worshippers offering prayers and burning incense.

We visited both during the day and at night to capture photographs. In the evening, it was much less crowded. The temples were beautifully illuminated which we felt added atmosphere to our photos.

Asakusa has a wide range of bars and restaurants near Sensō-ji Temple, offering everything from traditional Japanese cuisine to international dining options.

Our first night we initially planned to take a stroll and call it a night. As we wandered through the charming narrow streets, where cozy bars and restaurants spilled out onto the pavements, I paused at a cute little bar and nudged Shane, saying, “Look at this place.” Before we could even take it in, a lively group already enjoying their drinks beckoned us over to join them. It felt impossible to refuse, and just like that, our early night plans went out the window.

The group we joined turned out to be a mix of Germans and Japanese, who had only met each other earlier that evening. The Japanese guy immediately ordered us drinks and insisted on paying. He did this more than once, explaining that it was customary since they had invited us to join them. Unsure if this was truly tradition or just his generosity, we eventually returned the favour, if only to ease our own conscience.

We often find ourselves in these chance encounters, but it’s moments like these that leave the biggest impressions. After sampling an array of local drinks, Sake, plum wine, and a post war drink called hoppy ale we somehow convinced the Japanese guy who was an avid rugby fan to belt out the Welsh national anthem. His passionate impromptu performance was cut short by the bartender, who, though friendly, firmly suggested that he wanted to sing he should head to a karaoke bar. The singing may have stopped, but the conversation flowed freely. As always, it’s the nights you don’t plan that end up being the most unforgettable.

As well as historic sights Asakusa is also home to the Tokyo Skytree.

The Tokyo Skytree is an iconic structure towering over the city at 634 meters (2,080 feet), making it the tallest tower in the world and the second tallest structure globally, after the Burj Khalifa.

Primarily a broadcasting tower, the Skytree also serves as a major tourist destination, offering two observation decks, one at 350 meters and the other at 450 meters each providing breathtaking, panoramic views of Tokyo. On a clear day, you can even catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji in the distance.

The tower rises high along the banks of the Sumida River where it reflects beautifully on the river’s surface, especially at night when the tower glows with vivid LED lights.

Despite its historical feel, Asakusa has a timeless appeal that blends tradition with the buzz of city life.

We aimed to make the most of our time in Tokyo, so I dedicated myself to research and plan a diverse range of attractions. From the vibrant, bustling cosmopolitan districts, serene shrines and tranquil parks. we sought to experience the full spectrum of the city’s culture and energy.

Akihabara (Electric town)

Akihabara, often referred to as Tokyo’s “Electric Town,” is a vibrant district renowned for its vast array of electronics, anime, and gaming culture. Bright neon lights and towering billboards dominate the skyline, creating a lively, futuristic atmosphere. The streets are lined with stores selling everything from the latest gadgets to collectible figurines.
It’s a paradise for tech enthusiasts, gamers, and anime fans alike. Beyond the shops, you’ll find themed cafés, arcades, and pop culture stores, making Akihabara a dynamic hub for both locals and tourists seeking a unique blend of modern tech and Japanese subculture.

We had been discussing the idea of purchasing a GoPro for our travels, knowing it would be the perfect piece of tech to capture our adventures. Akihabara seemed like the ideal place to find one especially as many stores are tax free and you get an extra discount for being a tourist if you supply your passport. It didn’t take long before we found exactly what we were looking for, and we were excited to make the purchase, eager to start using it on our journey.

Ueno

We visited Ueno with the intention of visiting the park here which is a sprawling green space famous for its cherry blossom in the spring, temples and lotus flower ponds. Unfortunately it was getting late in the day when we arrived so instead we decided to explore the surrounding area.

Around Ueno Station and Ameya-Yokocho Market, you’ll find a lively area filled with numerous izakayas (Japanese pubs), where you can enjoy local favorites like yakitori (grilled skewers), sashimi, and sake. The narrow streets are lined with street food vendors and small eateries serving affordable dishes, including ramen, tempura and seafood.

We didn’t stay to dine, but we were glad to have explored the area and soak in its atmosphere. It gave us a great sense of the local vibe and culture, and we were happy to have experienced its energy, even briefly.

Shibuya

Another day we visited Shibuya which is one of Tokyo’s most iconic and energetic districts, known for its bustling streets and neon lights. At the heart of Shibuya is the famous Shibuya Crossing, often considered the busiest pedestrian intersection in the world, where waves of people cross from all directions beneath towering digital billboards. Surrounding the crossing, you’ll find trendy fashion boutiques, department stores, and a variety of cafés and restaurants.

But it’s also in Shibuya just outside the train station that you can find the statue of Hachi. The Hachiko Statue is one of Tokyo’s most beloved landmarks. This bronze statue commemorates Hachiko, a loyal Akita dog who became famous for waiting at the station every day for his owner, even after the owner’s passing. Hachiko continued his daily vigil for nearly 10 years, and his unwavering loyalty touched the hearts of people throughout Japan. I felt quite emotional to think that this was the place where Hachi waiting everyday. It broke my heart watching the film.

Harajuku

Another district we wanted to explore was Harajuku which is home to Yoyogi Park which is one of Tokyo’s largest and most popular parks offering a peaceful escape from the bustling city.
Just next to the park is ‘Meiji Jingu’ which is a major Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, it was completed in 1920 and is one of the most important spiritual sites in Japan.

On the pathway that leads up to the shrine you pass a huge wall of beautifully painted sake barrels. Sake is Japanese rice wine and the connection between sake and shinto shrines lies in the belief that people get closer to the gods when they drink sake. The (full) barrels of sake are typically donated to the shrines by sake brewers from all over Japan.
The Sake wall is undergoing restoration at the moment so we wasn’t able to see it in all its glory.

Harajuku district is also known for its kawaii (cute) culture and the district is a gathering spot for young people dressed in bold and creative fashion styles.
It was so busy especially along the famous Takeshita Street which is a narrow pedestrianised street lined with colorful shops and cafes famed for its delicious and colorful crepes, which have become an iconic street food of the area.

Just as we were leaving Harajuku we heard drums and the energetic chants from a lively procession making its way toward us. We couldn’t resist staying to watch as the procession approached, the participants joyfully moving forward, carrying something important at its centre.
I asked a local lady what the procession was for and she explained it was a festival to mark the end of summer where ‘mikoshi’ are carried through the streets by local neighborhood teams. The mikoshi are believed to house Shinto deities during the festival, and by parading them, the participants aim to bring blessings, good fortune, and prosperity to the local area. The way the mikoshi are carried, with vigorous jolting and lifting, is intended to please and energise the gods.

Kitazawa

Kitazawa was a place I’d read a little bit about and it sounded quite cool and quirky. It has a reputation for being one of Tokyo’s most vibrant cultural hubs, with a blend of vintage stores, small independent boutiques, live music venues, theaters, and unique cafés. The area is also well-known for its laid-back vibe and alternative arts scene, attracting artists, musicians, and creative types.

Kitazawa’s narrow streets are lined with quirky shops, and there is a strong emphasis on second-hand and retro goods, especially vintage clothing. The neighborhood hosts numerous cultural events, from live performances to small-scale festivals, giving it a dynamic and youthful energy.

Although we unknowingly took the wrong direction after exiting the train and missed the sights we had initially hoped to see, our day took a delightful turn. We found ourselves on a peaceful pedestrian pathway, passing by quaint cafés, with the stunning silhouette of Mount Fuji appearing in the distance at the end of the path.

As we continued, the sound of drums caught our attention, and once again, we were fortunate to stumble upon a vibrant summer festival procession. This time, three neighborhoods had come together to celebrate at a local shrine. We stayed to witness the final group gather in the temple courtyard, where the lively atmosphere, punctuated by the music of a band, reached its peak. The groups danced energetically alongside the mikoshi, filling the space with excitement. In the end, we didn’t feel as though we had missed out on our original plans our unexpected adventure made for a truly fabulous day.

Azabudai Hills and Tokyo Tower

Our next destination was Azabudai Hill, a district we were eager to explore, especially since it’s conveniently located near Tokyo Tower. This made it the perfect opportunity to combine the charm of a vibrant, modern neighborhood with the iconic sight of Tokyo’s towering landmark in one visit.

I first discovered Azabudai Hills through an Instagram reel, which, I have to admit, can be quite useful at times. The place looked stunning, and with both of us being passionate about photography, it immediately caught our attention. It turned out to be a perfect day for it too, with clear blue skies and ideal lighting.

Azabudai Hills is a newly developed district in central Tokyo, blending cutting-edge architecture with green spaces and modern urban living. It’s designed as a futuristic “city within a city,” offering a mix of luxury residences, upscale shopping, and dining options.
It’s also home to Japans tallest building the ‘Mori JP Tower’ which stands at 325.5m tall.

It felt almost like stepping into a city from a video game, everything was so impeccably designed and well maintained. The streets were spotless, and even the grass seemed perfectly manicured.
The whole area had an unreal, polished quality to it, blending futuristic architecture with flawless greenery in a way that made it feel both surreal and serene.

Happy with our photographs we walked the short distance to the Tokyo Tower which is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, standing at 333 meters tall and inspired by the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It dominates the skyline and serves as both a broadcasting structure and a tourist attraction, with observation decks providing breathtaking panoramic views of Tokyo, especially at night when the city is aglow.

We still had a little bit of time left in the day so we continued our walk past Tokyo Tower, heading towards Shiba Park and Zojoji Temple. From there, we found the perfect vantage point to capture the tower framed against the historic temple, creating a contrast between old and new.
The temple complex which dates back to 1393 is expansive, with traditional wooden architecture, beautifully landscaped grounds, and several important structures, including the Main Hall and the Sangedatsumon Gate.
It was the ideal conclusion to another day of exploring the vibrant districts of Tokyo.

Shinjuku

Our next stop in Tokyo also meant a change of hotels. Given the city’s vastness, we decided to move to the vibrant district of Shinjuku, which is conveniently located near major transportation links. This choice would not only make it easier for us to navigate the city but also place us closer to the Shinkansen station, where we plan to board the bullet train for our next adventure in Japan.

Shinjuku is one of Tokyo’s most dynamic and diverse districts, known for its bustling atmosphere and vibrant nightlife. It serves as a major commercial and entertainment hub, featuring a mix of towering skyscrapers, shopping centre’s and restaurants. The area is famous for its neon-lit streets and lively scenes, particularly in the entertainment districts of Kabukicho and Golden Gai which is known for its narrow, winding alleys and atmospheric charm.

Also in Kabukicho is The Godzilla statue which is an iconic landmark that towers over the bustling streets. Perched on top the Toho Cinemas building it pays homage to the legendary movie monster, which has been a symbol of Japanese pop culture since the 1950s. The massive Godzilla head emerges from the rooftop, looming over the city as if ready to make its next cinematic appearance.

Just around the corner lies a quiet pedestrian lane that leads you to Golden Gai which is home to around 200 tiny bars and pubs, each with its own distinct character. As we wandered through the narrow alleys we peeped into the tiny spaces often designed to only seat a handful of people. The charm was unlike anything we had ever encountered before. We immersed ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere, soaking in the lively energy while trying to capture the essence of the moment on film.

Shinjuku is also home to the iconic 3D Cat. This unique art installation features a large, lifelike 3D cat that appears to jump out of a wall, creating an eye-catching visual effect. It’s designed to be an interactive experience, allowing visitors to take photos with the cat in a fun setting.
Day and night, tourists flock to the area, drawn by the captivating spectacle of the 3D cat and its surrounding attractions. Crossing the road from the towering billboard, visitors eagerly gather to experience the illusion, which has become a beloved highlight in Shinjuku. In addition to the striking cat, there’s also an impressive 3D spaceship that adds to the visual excitement.

Only a stones throw away from the 3D cat is another quirky street known as Omoide Yokocho (meaning “Memory Lane”). This charming narrow alleyway is famous for its nostalgic atmosphere and rich history, offering a glimpse into Tokyo’s post-war dining scene. The alley is lined with tiny, traditional izakayas (Japanese bars) and eateries.
The alley’s charm is enhanced by its retro signage and flickering lanterns. Memory Lane is not only a great place to sample authentic Japanese cuisine but also the intimate size of the establishments creates a cozy and communal dining experience for locals and tourists alike.

Mount Fuji

Initially, we considered staying overnight near Mount Fuji, but we soon realized that a day trip from Tokyo would be just as convenient. With an abundance of tours available, each featuring different itineraries, we decided to opt for a bus tour that would take us to several stunning viewpoints, allowing us to enjoy the breathtaking scenery with Mount Fuji as our backdrop. This choice promised to maximise our experience while still making the most of our time in Tokyo.

It takes around 2 and a half hours to reach the area around Mount Fuji from central Tokyo. Our first stop was to the ‘Chureito Pagoda’ which is in the City of Fujiyoshida. This striking five-story pagoda is set against the breathtaking backdrop of Mount Fuji. To reach the Pagoda you have to climb the 400 steps as the pagoda stands on a hillside and from there you see panoramic views of Mount Fuji, it’s especially stunning during cherry blossom season or autumn when the foliage is vibrant.

Our next stop was in the centre of Fujiyoshida to ‘Honcho Street’ which has become a hot spot on social media for seeing Mount Fuji.
Mount Fuji can be seen from behind the tasteful signs boards and lanterns which decorate shops along the street and the crisscrossing electric wires overhead add an urban authenticity to the scene.

Oshino Hakkai, our next stop, is a scenic village renowned for its eight crystal-clear ponds, nestled between Lake Kawaguchiko and Lake Yamanakako. These ponds are fed by the pristine meltwater of Mount Fuji, which seeps through layers of porous volcanic lava, creating some of the purest spring water in Japan. The ponds, surrounded by traditional thatched roof houses, offer a picturesque glimpse of rural Japan, with the majestic Mount Fuji often visible in the background, adding to the charm of the area.

Our final stop on the tour was Oshi Park, located on the northern shore of Lake Kawaguchiko. The park offers a magnificent view of both the serene lake and the majestic Mount Fuji in the distance. The lakeside promenade is lined with seasonal flowers that bloom throughout the year, adding vibrant color to the landscape. When we visited, the star attraction was the stunning Muhly grasses, which had transformed into striking shades of pink, creating a dreamy, almost surreal atmosphere.

We thoroughly enjoyed the day and were so glad we opted for the tour, which allowed us to visit all these iconic spots in one trip. The itinerary was perfectly balanced, giving us the chance to experience the best of the region. Each stop offered a unique perspective of Mount Fuji and its surrounding landscapes, and the convenience of the tour meant we could relax and take in every moment.

Chiyoda

We had reached our final day in Tokyo so we opted to visit the district of Chiyoda which is a central district in Tokyo, known for being the heart of Japan’s political, historical, and cultural significance. It is home to the Imperial Palace, where the Emperor resides, surrounded by beautiful gardens and moats. This area blends modernity with tradition, as towering skyscrapers and government buildings coexist with historical landmarks.

The district is also home to Tokyo Station which is one of the city’s major transportation hubs, known for its striking red brick Marunouchi facade, which dates back to 1914. Tokyo Station is the central point for Japan’s extensive shinkansen (bullet train) network, connecting the capital to various regions across the country and this is where we will be travelling from tomorrow as we get to experience the bullet train for the first time.

There are many districts we didn’t get the chance to explore, as Tokyo is incredibly vast, but I feel we got a wonderful introduction during our week here. It gave us a great taste of the city’s diversity and energy, leaving us with even more reason to return in the future. Tomorrow, we head to Kyoto, once the ancient capital of Japan, to immerse ourselves in its rich history, exploring the region’s many temples and historic districts.

Kyoto

We woke up filled with excitement, knowing that today would be our first experience riding the Shinkansen, Japan’s famous bullet train, to the historic city of Kyoto. It was the Japanese that created the very first bullet train in October 1964. It was the world’s first high-speed rail service, with trains initially operating at speeds of up to 130 mph a groundbreaking achievement at the time.

The development of the Shinkansen revolutionised train travel and became a symbol of Japan’s post-war modernisation. Today, the Shinkansen remains one of the fastest and most efficient train networks in the world, with speeds reaching up to 200 mph on some routes.

We made our way to Tokyo Station where we would catch the Shinkansen. Navigating through the busy terminal was pretty straightforward thanks to the remarkable efficiency of the Japanese system. The well organised layout and clear signage guided us seamlessly to our platform in one of the world’s busiest train stations without any stress.

As expected, the train was right on schedule, and we settled into our seats, eager to begin our journey. The Shinkansen would make only four stops before reaching Kyoto, allowing us to enjoy a swift ride. As we departed from Tokyo, the train quickly picked up speed, and it wasn’t long before we felt the familiar sensation of our ears popping. At times, we could feel the gentle push of G-force pressing us softly into our seats, a thrilling reminder of the incredible speed at which we were traveling.

The journey on the Shinkansen takes just 2 hours and 15 minutes, a remarkable feat considering that the same trip by road would take around 6 hours.

Upon our arrival at Kyoto Station, it was just a short walk to our hotel, which I had chosen for its location. Not only was it conveniently situated near the station, but it also served as an ideal base for day trips and easy access to transportation around the city, making it the perfect starting point for our adventures in Kyoto.

By the time we checked in and settled into our hotel, it was quite late in the day, but we were eager to make the most of our time in Kyoto. Although the city boasts excellent transportation options including trains, subways, and buses it’s also incredibly walkable. Since we love to explore on foot and had been sitting for much of the day, we decided to stroll towards the vibrant Gion district, renowned as the Geisha quarter. The walk would likely take us about an hour, but we welcomed the opportunity for some exercise and the chance to soak in the atmosphere of the city along the way.

As we approached the Gion district, we caught our first glimpse of the traditional wooden houses lining the narrow streets, illuminated by soft lantern light that emanated from the restaurants and Japanese bars. Wandering down one charming lane, we noticed that many establishments featured outdoor decks overlooking the river. Intrigued, we continued our walk toward the water, where we were greeted by a long row of inviting decks attached to each restaurant, offering the perfect setting for alfresco dining. The scene was enchanting, with people enjoying their meals while taking in the tranquil river views.

We knew we would explore this area in much greater depth later, as this was merely a glimpse of what Gion had to offer. As the evening grew later we made our way back to the hotel, feeling satisfied but ready to call it a night. We were excited about the adventures that awaited us the next day, eager to delve deeper into Kyoto’s rich culture and history.

Fresh from a good nights rest we wanted to make the most of our first full day and head over to the ‘Fushimi Inari Shrine’ which is an important Shinto shrine in Southern Kyoto. It’s famous for its thousands of torri gates which straddle a network of trails behind its main building. The trails lead into the wooded forest of the sacred Mount Inari, which stands at 233 meters.

Fushimi Inari is the most important of several thousands of shrines dedicated to Inari the Shinto god of rice. Foxes are thought to be Inari’s messengers, resulting in many fox statues across the shrine grounds.

The hike to the summit of the mountain and back takes approximately 2 to 3 hours. While it’s not necessary to walk all the way to the top, I knew we were determined to make the journey. Thankfully, the iconic torii gates provided a welcome respite from the sun, offering shade along the way. Although we still felt the heat, the cover of the gates made our ascent more bearable as we steadily made our way to the peak.

At this shrine, as in many others across Kyoto, it’s common to see tourists donning traditional clothing such as kimonos. Dress rental shops are abundant throughout the city, transforming this cultural experience into a thriving business. We found it quite amusing here watching these visitors navigate the thousands of steps and pathways to the summit, the distinctive sound of their wooden shoes echoing with each step as they ascend for those perfect photographs. Occasionally, they become part of our scenery, and we can’t help but use them as unintentional props while we wait for our own photo opportunities.

Visiting the shrine and completing the hike consumed half the day, but we still had time to return to the Gion district to explore further in daylight. Back in Gion, we made our way to Tatsumi Bridge, which has gained newfound popularity thanks to a scene from the Hollywood film Memoirs of a Geisha. Although the film was shot on a set near Los Angeles, the bridge’s stunning aesthetics have attracted many visitors eager to capture its beauty in photographs.

We found ourselves sharing the bridge with numerous visitors dressed in traditional costumes, but we didn’t mind as their presence added to the charm of the scene and historic surroundings so again we used them as delightful props for our own photos.

We then made our way towards Kenninju temple strolling along the traditional streets branching off the main Hanamikoji Street. This area is the heart of the Gion geisha district, steeped in history and cultural significance. However, in recent years, the behavior of some tourist who have harassed geishas, damaged property, and engaged in other disrespectful acts has prompted stricter regulations. As a result, photography has been banned on private roads within this area, and anyone caught taking photos without a permit risks being fined. This measure aims to protect the integrity of the district and its cultural heritage, ensuring that the traditions of Gion can be appreciated and respected by all.

We arrived at Kinninji temple which was constructed in 1202 and is considered to be the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. Kenninji consists of several large halls and gates with about two dozen smaller buildings arranged around them. Most of the temple grounds are freely open to the public; however, visitors must pay an entrance fee to enter the main buildings at the complex’ center.

As the day began to wane, we decided to make our last stop at Hokan-ji Temple, known for its stunning 46 meter tall pagoda adorned with graceful, sloping roofs on each tier. Nestled in the heart of an old Kyoto neighborhood, the area is incredibly picturesque.

As we walked uphill toward the pagoda, the charming street was lined with beautiful shops and cozy eateries, buzzing with activity. Many visitors, dressed in traditional attire, filled the street, using the pagoda as a perfect backdrop for their photos.

However, with the weather turning cloudy, we decided it would be best to return when the atmosphere was a bit quieter and the skies clearer. Feeling satisfied with the adventures we had crammed into one day, we headed back to the hotel for dinner and a well deserved rest.

The following day, we were filled with excitement as we prepared to visit Arashiyama, an area renowned for its captivating attractions. We were particularly eager to explore the famous bamboo forest and the nearby monkey park. Knowing how much we adore monkeys and realising it had been a while since we last saw them, this outing felt like the perfect opportunity. The park is home to the Japanese macaque, also known as the snow monkey, and we looked forward to encountering a new species.

The journey to Arashiyama was quick and convenient, taking just 15 minutes by train to reach the charming town.

Shortly after exiting the train, we followed Google Maps, which unexpectedly led us to an attraction we hadn’t even planned to visit. To our surprise, we discovered that Arashiyama has another “forest” in addition to the famous bamboo grove. This hidden gem is called the Kimono Forest, and it’s a stunning collection of cylinder-shaped pillars lining the path to Randen tram station on Kyoto’s Keifuku Arashiyama line. Installed during a station renovation in 2013, these pillars are wrapped in vibrant kimono fabric, each one showcasing a unique pattern. The pillars are arranged in clusters, resembling a forest, and create an enchanting display that is a true feast for the eyes. Although lesser known, it’s a captivating spot that adds to the charm of Arashiyama.

We continued through the lively streets of the beautiful town, crossing the iconic bridge that leads toward the monkey park. After paying a small entrance fee, we began the ascent up Mount Arashiyama, following the winding steps and pathways that would take us to the monkeys’ habitat. With our legs still feeling the burn from the previous day’s shrine hike, the climb was challenging, but we knew it would be worth it.

The park is home to around 120 Japanese macaques, also known as snow monkeys. Native to Japan, these are the same monkeys famously seen soaking in hot springs during the winter. While it was a shame we weren’t here to witness that unique spectacle, the chance to see them in their natural environment was still an exciting prospect.

Once at the top the monkeys came into view. Although the monkeys are human-fed, with tourists even getting the chance to feed them, they are still wild animals. The same rules apply here as with any wild monkey encounter: “don’t stare” and “don’t touch.” These guidelines are crucial, especially since direct eye contact can be perceived as a threat or form of aggression. As long as you respect these rules, you shouldn’t have any issues. Personally, I like to wear my sunglasses and sneak in the occasional side-eye to observe them without causing any alarm, it’s my way of admiring them from a safe distance.

At the summit, there’s a clearing with a small hut in the center. Inside the hut, you can purchase peanuts and apple slices to feed the monkeys. The hut’s windows are fitted with wire mesh, allowing you to safely hand the food out to the eager monkeys as they clamor for treats. Although we chose not to go inside, we enjoyed watching the feeding frenzy from outside and mingling with the monkeys in their natural setting.

Beyond the monkey interaction, the view from the top was truly breathtaking. The sweeping panorama over Kyoto made the hike well worth it, offering a stunning reward for the effort it took to reach the top.

After spending some time with the monkeys, we descended the mountain and made our way across town to the famous bamboo grove, one of Kyoto’s most photographed spots. Stepping into the grove felt like entering a world of green, where towering bamboo stalks formed a natural tunnel, with sunlight gently filtering through the leaves. The atmosphere was serene, almost magical, and we watched as human-pulled rickshaws carried tourists through the enchanting forest, adding to the timeless charm of the place.

We made our way back to the station, feeling completely satisfied after what we could only describe as another perfect day. There’s something exhilarating about waking up each morning with a new place or attraction to explore. To top it off, we found the perfect spot to unwind—a charming English pub just around the corner from our hotel. While we usually embrace the “when in Rome” mentality, after travelling for so long, it was refreshing to enjoy some familiar comforts. Shane was thrilled to have a proper pint of ale, and I savoured the best gin and tonic I’d had so far.

The pub had an amusing charm, resembling a Wetherspoons with its familiar menu and offers, but with the added luxury of outdoor seating on warm, balmy evenings. It was the perfect blend of home comfort and relaxed ambiance, what’s not to love?

Next day we woke up with no set plans so I quickly had a read over breakfast for where we could venture to today.

Kyoto has so many temples and shrines so we opted to first visit Toji Temple which literally means ‘East Temple’ which was founded at the beginning of the Heian period in the late 700’s. Toji Temple is one of Kyoto’s many UNESCO world heritage sites. Toji’s five storied pagoda was originally erected in 826, it stands 57 meters tall making it the tallest wooden pagoda in Japan.

Sticking with the world heritage sites we decided our next stop would be Nijo-jo Castle which is an historic site that was originally built in 1603 as the residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo period. The castle is famous for its impressive architecture, including the Ninomaru Palace, which features beautifully painted sliding doors and “nightingale floors” that chirp when walked on to alert against intruders. Surrounded by lush gardens and defensive walls, Nijo-jo is a UNESCO World Heritage site that offers a glimpse into Japan’s feudal past and the lifestyle of the shogunate.

We had spent another wonderful day immersed in Kyoto’s rich history, which the city offers in abundance. With just one day remaining, I would have to do some more research to ensure we made the most of our final day in this culturally captivating city.

One place we were eager to revisit was the area around Hokan-ji Temple in the Gion district. Fortunately, the weather was perfect, with blue skies and sunshine forecast for the day. We headed to Gion early to beat the crowds, and although it was still busy, it was much quieter than our first visit. As we made our way up the hill toward the pagoda, I overheard a guide telling a group they would visit a temple just ahead. I turned to Shane and said, “Let’s follow and check it out.”

I’m so glad we did because we nearly missed one of Kyoto’s most iconic site ‘Kiyomizu-dera Temple’ also known as the Temple of Pure Water. Somehow I had overlooked it in my research, but with so many temples in the area, it’s easy to do. Founded in 778 AD, Kiyomizu-dera is one of Kyoto’s most celebrated temples, with structures dating back to the 17th century, including the main hall, which is designated as a National Treasure. The temple is perhaps most famous for its wooden stage, which juts out from the main hall, offering breathtaking panoramic views of Kyoto, especially when surrounded by a sea of maple trees.

We spent a few hours wandering the temple grounds and the pathways leading to the pagoda. I was so grateful we stumbled upon this magnificent place and didn’t leave Kyoto without seeing one of its most impressive treasures.

We had just enough time left to visit the one place I had researched and that was ‘Kinkaku-ji’ otherwise known as the Golden Pavilion. We had just enough time to take the bus across town and see this beautiful temple whose top two floors are completely covered in gold leaf. Formally known as Rokuonji, the temple was the retirement villa of the shogun ‘Ashikaga Yoshimitsu’ and according to his will it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408.

Kinkakuji is an impressive structure built overlooking a large pond, and is the only building left of Yoshimitsu’s former retirement complex.

I think we managed to squeeze in plenty of temples and culture on our last day, making the most of every moment in Kyoto. After all the walking and sightseeing, I have a feeling our final evening will call for a few well earned ales at the British pub. Tomorrow, we’ll be moving onto Ōsaka, which, fortunately for us, is only a short 30 minute train ride away. It’ll be a complete change of pace from Kyoto’s serene temples and historic charm. Ōsaka will welcome us with its towering skyscrapers, neon lights, and lively theme parks.

Ōsaka

Our next stop was Ōsaka which was just a 30 minute train ride from Kyoto. We could have kept Kyoto as a base and still visited Ōsaka but as we have time on our side we decided we would move on for a few days and fully immerse ourselves in a new place.

We booked an apartment which is something we always enjoy when we get the chance as it means we can cook if we want to and it also came with a washing machine, one of those little home comforts you tend to take for granted but really appreciate while travelling.

Japan is full of great ideas and one we took advantage of when we arrived in Ōsaka was the lockers that they have at many of the train stations. As our apartment was self check in we couldn’t access until 4pm. It’s never a problem arriving early when staying in hotels as they happily look after your bags but we had no option of that on this occasion. So rather than lug heavy bags around you can store them in lockers at most stations for a small fee varying on different locker sizes. The station was only a 5 minute walk from the apartment so we left them securely in the locker and would return to collect later.

Free now to explore and not waste any of the day we headed to the lively district of Dotonbori as it was only a kilometre from the area we were staying.

Ōsaka is Japan’s third largest city, known for its vibrant culture, rich history, and modern urban landscape. Dotonbori is the bustling entertainment district, it’s a major tourist destination, known for its lively atmosphere, bustling crowds, and endless options for street food and restaurants.

We headed towards the canal that runs through Dotonbori, this vibrant area is lined with billboards and signs, the most iconic being the Glico running man and the Kani Doraku crab. Boats cruise up and down the canal offering short boat trips cruising under the cities 9 landmark bridges.

The area is also great for shopping with all the big brands and many tax free stores.

We walked along the canals boardwalk taking in all the vibrancy and colourful building. It had a great buzz during the daytime, I imagine as night falls even more so.

The hours flew by as we explored the busy streets. It had been a perfect way to pass the afternoon before we headed back to the station to collect our bags.

The first thing we did once settled into the apartment was find out where the nearest supermarket was. I love to cook and don’t often get the chance whilst travelling so the next few days I would be taking advantage to rustle up a few dishes and have some home comforts.

Japan is great for sourcing ingredients, the supermarkets are stocked pretty much like home. Our best buy was smoked bacon, something we hadn’t had any in 8 months, so a good old bacon butty was definitely on the menu for breakfast.

Ōsaka is also home to Universal studios which we planned to visit during our time here. I pre-booked tickets online to skip the long lines and head straight to the fun. Weather wise we had chosen a good day as the day prior had been non stop rain and although the park may have been quieter I don’t think it would have been much fun queuing for rides and attractions in pouring down rain.

With the sun shining and a spring in our step we headed into the park excited like big kids to explore and decide on which attraction first.

Universal does things well with a mix of heart pounding rides, roller coasters, thrilling simulators, 3D and 4D attractions, live shows and characters parades.

The park is divided into themed areas, each offering its own attractions. Wander the streets of New York or the bayside of San Francisco before entering the Wizarding World of Harry Potter. This area was our favourite with the snow capped rooftops of Hogsmeade, where visitors can sip on Butterbeer and explore Hogwarts castle.

The queuing time for some of the most popular rides was nearing on ridiculous so unfortunately we didn’t get to see all the attractions. But the queues move steadily, and the walkways leading up to the rides are meticulously designed to keep you entertained as you wait. Each queuing area is thoughtfully themed, immersing you in the story of the ride.

Another thing that kept us entertained as we queued was to people watch. The Japanese love all things cute and when they visit an amusement park it seems they fully embrace this passion. It’s as if the day calls for a “cuteness overload”. People of all ages, from kids to adults, come accessorised with plush toys or dressed up as their favorite anime characters. The park is filled with colorful costumes, playful headbands, and themed outfits.

I think we definitely saved the best until last as we painfully queued the 100 minutes for the ‘Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey”. After receiving the honor of the world’s number one ride for five consecutive years we had to see if it was worth waiting for.

Thankfully it was worth the wait on this 4D ride that combines motion simulation, robotics, and practical sets to create the sensation of flying alongside Harry through the castle as if you’re flying through Hogwarts.

It was the perfect way to wrap up our day, with just enough time left to head back to our district for dinner. Imagine our surprise when, back in Dotonbori, we stumbled across another one of those English pubs like the one we found in Kyoto. A quick Google search revealed that it’s actually a chain, with around 100 of them scattered across Japan. Honestly, I wish we’d known this earlier!

Now, don’t get the wrong idea, we’re not on the verge of alcoholism, I promise. But when they serve up the best G&T for a couple of quid and an ale for Shane, we’d be fools to turn it down. And during happy hour, they sweeten the deal with mini fish and chips, complete with good old Sarson’s vinegar, for just an extra quid. Who could resist that?

Before long, we were chatting with fellow travellers and locals and yet again it turned into another late night. But no complaints, those spontaneous nights are always the best, meeting people from all over, each with a story worth sharing.

We had one last day in Osaka so we aimed to make the most of it. We hadn’t visited Ōsaka castle so decided that would be first on the agenda. Ōsaka is another Japanese city with excellent transportation options, the subway and trains being the best way to get around. So we headed to the nearest subway station which was only a few minutes walk and was soon on our way to the castle.

The subway station where we arrived is located right at the edge of the castle grounds. However, reaching Osaka Castle itself requires a short ascent up some steps, followed by a walk along a path that circles the broad moat leading directly to the castle’s main entrance.

Ōsaka Castle is a magnificent structure with a striking five-story main tower, adorned with ornate golden details and an elegant green tiled roof. It was built in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi who intended the castle to become the center of a new, unified Japan under Toyotomi rule. It was the largest castle at the time. However, a few years after Hideyoshi’s death, Tokugawa troops attacked and destroyed the castle and terminated the Toyotomi lineage in 1615. Osaka Castle was rebuilt in the 1620s, but its main castle tower was struck by lightening in 1665, burnt down, and was not rebuilt during the feudal ages. It was not until 1931 that the present reconstruction of the castle tower was built and during the war miraculously survived the city wide air raids.

We enjoyed exploring the expansive grounds of the castle which are encircled by gates, turrets and impressive stone walls that rise above the moat. The elevated position of the castle allowed us to capture photographs of the modern cityscape that encircles the castle.

The entire Osaka Castle Park covers about two square kilometers with lots of green space, sport facilities, a multi-purpose arena (Osakajo Hall) and a shrine dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

Satisfied that we had explored everything the castle had to offer, we made our way back to the subway. Our next destination was across town to the iconic Tsutenkaku Tower, situated in the lively Shinsekai district.

Shinsekai is renowned for its retro charm and vibrant energy. The streets are alive with neon lights, and the buildings boast colorful, elaborately decorated facades that create a visual spectacle even though they are over the top and slightly tacky. The district is famous for its affordable street food, particularly deep fried skewers of meat, seafood, and vegetables, as well as many traditional restaurants with their colorful signs and lanterns.

We walked towards the ‘Tsutenkaku Tower’ Standing at 103 meters tall it features a distinctive observation deck, offering panoramic views of Osaka’s sprawling urban landscape. Originally constructed in 1912, it was modeled after the Eiffel Tower and quickly became a beloved landmark.

At night, the tower lights up with vibrant neon colors, adding to the lively atmosphere of Shinsekai.

We hadn’t been here long and the weather started to turn. It wasn’t long before the light drizzle turned into a full on downpour. Fortunately Just ahead was the ‘Shinsekai market’ which is an old school covered shopping street lined with food, clothing and souvenirs vendors. We lingered there for a while to keep dry but as it became clear that the rain wasn’t letting up we had no choice but to head back towards the subway and brave the downpour.

We arrived back to the subway half soaked from the rain, but luckily it was only one stop back to our apartment. When we emerged from the station the rain had intensified and by the time we reached the apartment we were completely drenched, soaked to the bone.

Since it was our last evening in Osaka, we had planned to go out. However, with the rain showing no signs of letting up, a hot shower and a cozy movie night sounded far more inviting.

Ōsaka has been yet another city we’ve thoroughly enjoyed, and so far there’s little, if anything we’ve found to dislike about Japan. However, it’s time to move on if we want to explore more places during our stay. Our next destination is Hiroshima, a city with a sad history destroyed by war. Once again, we’ll be taking advantage of the incredible bullet train to save time and make the most of our journey.

Hiroshima

Our next stop was Hiroshima a place we eagerly anticipated knowing it would bring about a mix of emotions. We braced ourselves for the sadness that would come from learning about the devastating atomic bombing, but we also looked forward to the sense of hope and enlightenment that comes from witnessing how far the city has come in its rebuilding efforts.

We travelled once again by bullet train, taking full advantage of this incredible mode of transport that drastically cuts journey times. What would be a 6 hour road trip would take us just an hour and half covering great distances in the blink of an eye.

Arriving into Hiroshima we made our way directly to the bus station where we hopped on a city bus for a a quick ride to our accommodation.

We booked another apartment to enjoy the familiar comforts of a kitchen and washing machine. This time, we were even more pleased with our choice, as the apartment featured a cozy lounge area with a corner settee in a stylish open plan layout. It provided a perfect atmosphere to feel at home during our stay.

The apartment was situated on the tree lined ‘peace boulevard’ which stretches through the heart of Hiroshima connecting to various important landmarks making it an ideal location. Just behind us was the lively streets of the Nagarekawa District which is known for its bars and clubs and Yagenbori Street that boasts quaint izakayas and bars offering a quieter setting.

By the time we had settled into the apartment and stocked up on provisions from the local supermarket it was late in the day.

Although we didn’t want to stay out too late we still wanted to take a stroll to explore the area before we would fully immerse ourselves in the city’s sights the following day.

We explored the colourful streets of Nagarekawa dotted with restaurants and bars it’s a popular destination for locals and tourists. True to form, we found ourselves in an Irish bar (because, of course, that’s what we do—ha!). Luckily, it was pretty quiet so we managed to avoid one of those late night escapades, though we never have regrets when we do indulge! After savoring a cocktail (because who needs Guinness when you’re in Japan?), we decided it was time to call it a night.

After a hearty breakfast that would fuel us for the day we set out knowing the hours ahead would be filled with sadness as we planned to visit the ‘Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park’, the area is the hypocentre of where the first atomic bomb was dropped over Hiroshima on August 6, 1945 during WW2. The city became known worldwide for this catastrophic event. The destructive power of the bomb was tremendous and obliterated nearly everything within a two kilometer radius.

The parks main facility is the ‘Peace Memorial Museum’, the museum tells the history of Hiroshima and the advent of the nuclear bomb. Its main focus though is on the events of August 6: the dropping of the bomb and its outcome in human suffering. The personal details displayed are quite upsetting and serve to remind that we should not take peace for granted.

Across the river from the museum and park is the ‘A Bomb Dome’ known as The Hiroshima Peace Memorial. This was the only structure left standing in the area where the atomic bomb exploded. Through the efforts of many people, including those of the city of Hiroshima, it has been preserved in the same state as immediately after the bombing. Not only is it a stark and powerful symbol of the most destructive force ever created by humankind; it also expresses the hope for world peace and the ultimate elimination of all nuclear weapons.

Between the Museum and the A-Bomb Dome is the Cenotaph for the A-Bomb victims. The Cenotaph is an arched tomb for those who died because of the bomb, either because of the initial blast or exposure to radiation. Below the arch is a stone chest holding a register of these names, of which there are over 220,000.

There are other monuments throughout the park including the Children’s Peace Memorial and the Peace Bell both a symbol of a cultural and spiritual movement aiming to achieve a world free of nuclear weapons and war.

After the war, great efforts were taken to rebuild the city. Destroyed monuments of Hiroshima’s historical heritage, like Hiroshima Castle and Shukkeien garden were reconstructed. It was decided that the area of what is now the Peace Park would not be redeveloped but instead devoted to peace memorial facilities.

Hiroshima Castle was just a short distance from the park and our next destination. On the way, we came across an art exhibition and were invited to leave a message of “Peace” on small cards for the #peaceforall movement. We were more than happy to participate, contributing to the shared hope for a more peaceful world.

Hiroshima Castle was built in the late 16th century and served as a key military and political center in the region. The original castle destroyed in the atomic bombing was later reconstructed in 1958, preserving the original design while incorporating modern building techniques. Today, the five-story structure houses a museum that offers insights into the history of Hiroshima, the castle’s role in samurai culture, and the city’s transformation over the centuries.

It’s truly inspiring to see the resilience and strength of the Hiroshima community in rebuilding their city. The museum details how the reconstruction efforts began almost immediately after the devastation, showcasing the unwavering determination of the people to restore their home. It’s a powerful testament to their unity and hope, transforming Hiroshima into a vibrant and thriving city once more.

After such a powerfully moving day and worn out from the many miles walked we looked forward to slumping on the sofa and have a relaxing night as tomorrow we plan to have a much more uplifting day visiting the nearby Miyajima island.

Miyajima is a small island close to Hiroshima. Known for its stunning views, historic sites, and tranquil atmosphere. It is best known for the iconic “floating” torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine, which appears to float on the water during high tide.

We travelled to the port using one of the local trams which takes around an hour. The tram ride is convenient since it drops you directly at the ferry terminal and ferries run back and forth regularly. The crossing itself is quick, taking only about 10 minutes to reach Miyajima.

From the mainland the island is stunningly beautiful with a lush mountainous landscape. A smooth quick sail across, the first sight that greeted us was the iconic red torii gate, standing majestically in the water. The second thing that greeted us was the friendly free roaming deer. We’d read that there was deer on the island so it was lovely to see so many wandering through the streets, lounging in the shade and curiously approaching visitors. They are accustomed to being around people and being inquisitive if they thought food was around. They are an integral part of the island and are considered sacred in Shinto tradition, believed to be messengers of the gods.

We headed over to the torii gate as we wanted to capture photos while the tide was high. The weather was on our side, with clear skies and bright sunshine. The red of the torii gate contrasted beautifully with the blue sea and sky, creating the perfect backdrop. Admiring the view we noticed an artist nearby, quietly sketching the gate adding to the serene atmosphere.

There’s lots of things to do on the island, the charming town located just beyond the ferry terminal is filled with narrow streets that wind up the hillside, lined with traditional Japanese houses that give a sense of old world charm. As you explore, you discover a variety of small shops selling unique souvenirs, alongside cozy cafes, restaurants, and street food stalls offering delicious treats like BBQ meat and seafood skewers.

The island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to several beautiful temples and shrines that highlight its spiritual and cultural heritage. It also offers scenic hiking trails up Mount Misen, where you can enjoy panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea and if you don’t want to hike you can take the cable car (ropeway) to the summit.

We was happy to wander through the charming streets and alleyways, making our way uphill to the Five-Story Pagoda adjacent to Itsukushima Shrine. Built in 1407, the pagoda’s striking red and gold colours beautifully contrast with the lush greenery around. As we continued our exploration, we discovered more temples and endless opportunities for photography and along the way we encountered the friendly deer.

It was a brilliant day on the island, it had a wonderfully relaxed vibe. Whether strolling along the pathways or finding a quiet spot to sit and take it all in, we felt completely at ease taking in the charm of Miyajima.

After a long day, we returned to Hiroshima for our final night. Although we didn’t want to stay out late, we couldn’t miss the chance to capture some more photographs. Knowing that Hiroshima Castle would be beautifully illuminated at night, we decided to head there at twilight. The castle was indeed stunningly lit as we strolled around and re-entered the castle grounds. The atmosphere was a bit spooky in the eerie moonlight but we soon overcome our fears as we captured the stunning photos we had hoped for. The effort of making the walk undoubtedly worth it!

Happy with out shots, we made our way back to the apartment. To save time, we cut through the vibrant town district, which was buzzing on this Friday night. Groups of people, likely unwinding after the work week filled the streets, loud, tipsy, and dressed in suits, enjoying the lively atmosphere. It reminded us of walking down Deansgate on a Friday night back home, and we couldn’t help but laugh at the familiarity of it all.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Hiroshima, which was a blend of emotions as we thought it would be. It felt surreal to visit a place we had only learned about in school, a location so distant yet significant in our understanding of the past. Leaving Hiroshima, we felt grateful for the opportunity to witness firsthand the resilience and spirit of a city that has emerged from such profound challenges.

Our next destination is Fukuoka, our final stop in Japan before we embark on the next leg of our journey. This coastal city not only offers a variety of sights but also serves as our gateway to South Korea. With its mix of historical landmarks, bustling markets, and beautiful beaches, Fukuoka will hopefully be an exciting finale to our Japanese adventure before we set sail from Japan to continue our travels in South Korea.

Fukuoka

Our final destination in Japan was the coastal city of Fukuoka, chosen primarily because it’s where we would catch the ferry to our next adventure in South Korea. While we initially knew little about the city, some quick research revealed that Fukuoka has plenty to offer so promised to be a perfect place to explore for a few days before our departure.

We traveled from Hiroshima once more aboard the magnificent bullet train, a mode of transport that has quickly become one of our favorite parts of exploring Japan. Amazed at the sheer speed it travels seeing the countryside whiz by the windows and the rapid pace caused our ears pop.

We arrived in Fukuoka in just over an hour, then hopped on a city bus for a few stops to reach our hotel. Checking in and settling in has become a finely tuned routine at this point, we don’t even bother fully unpacking, just the essentials. This way, we can repack and be on the move again in no time. After so much time on the road, we’ve turned this quick turnaround style of travel into a real art form!

With a few hours of daylight left to explore, we decided to head off in a “let’s just walk and see where we end up” direction. It was the kind of plan where we had no plan at all, just wandering wherever our feet took us, getting lost is half the adventure! Although you can never be truly lost these days with tech and google maps it’s more like “pretending to be lost”.

We found ourselves crossing a series of bridges into one of Fukuoka’s busy shopping districts. From what we’d seen so far, Fukuoka is a lovely, modern city, with its network of waterways adding a unique charm. The waterways flow from the open sea right into the heart of the city. Along the riverbanks, there are plenty of scenic walkways perfect for a leisurely stroll or vibrant restaurants offering views of the water, making the city feel lively yet laid-back.

After a few hours of exploring, you’ll never guess what we stumbled upon… yep, another one of those British pubs we’d grown to love since Tokyo! Now, I’d love to say we just happened to get lost and ended up right on its doorstep, ha! But the truth is, once we found out this chain had a couple of locations in Fukuoka we definitely aimed to find one at least. It was our little slice of home, and we weren’t about to miss out. To top it off, the place was decked out in full Halloween decorations, giving us a cozy, familiar reminder of the season’s festivities back home.

The following morning we awoke to blue skies and glorious sunshine, perfect for the seaside walk I had planned. We could have taken the bus but we wanted to get our steps in, plus temperatures are perfect this time of year, hovering around the mid 20’s so we would like nothing more than to enjoy the stroll.

About halfway through our walk, we came across Ohori Park and decided to take a detour to explore its gardens and lake. Being a sunny Sunday, the park was lively and filled with families and locals enjoying the warm weather. Some were out on the lake in pedalos, while others relaxed on the grassy lawns with picnics. The atmosphere was cheerful and inviting, making it a lovely spot to pause.

A charming bridge led to an inner island in the middle of the lake, where a pavilion seemed to float above the water. The lake itself was teeming with koi carp and terrapins, eagerly gathering as visitors fed them. The entire setting was incredibly peaceful, and we were so glad we stumbled upon this hidden gem.

We continued our walk toward the coast, passing by the impressive PayPay Dome, the home stadium of the Fukuoka SoftBank Hawks baseball team. The dome’s distinctive design and massive structure making it hard to miss. It was only a short walk from here towards the seafront and the Fukuoka tower. The Tower is a striking landmark that offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding coastline. Standing at 234 meters tall, it is Japan’s tallest seaside tower and one of Fukuoka’s most recognisable structures.

The tower sits back just off Momochihama seaside park which is a one kilometre long stretch of beach with promenade and at the centre of the beach is ‘Marizon’ which is a charming Mediterranean style resort which features restaurants, shops and a wedding venue set against the beautiful backdrop of Hakata Bay.

Since it was a Sunday, the area around the Tower was buzzing with activity. There was a flea market which seemed to be a regular weekend event. Under the tower itself, a lively fair had taken over the square, complete with stalls and a stage featuring various performances. The atmosphere was vibrant and reminiscent of a summer festival back home. It was the perfect place to soak up the local energy and enjoy the lively weekend vibe.

We’d had a fantastic day so far, and though we initially considered taking the bus back, I was enjoying the walk too much to cut it short. Since we weren’t in a hurry to be anywhere, I suggested we keep walking, take in the fresh air, and stretch our legs a bit longer. So, we set off on foot, along the way, we even managed to reach a temple we’d been hoping to see, just before it closed for the day.

By the time we finally settled into an inviting riverside restaurant, we realised we had covered an impressive 13 miles. We were more than ready for a rest. The only challenge left was whether we’d have the motivation to get moving again if we got too comfy! Thankfully we just about had enough energy to make it back to the hotel ready for a good nights sleep.

Fukuoka quickly won us over with its blend of history and modern attractions. On one side, the city’s history comes alive through sites like the Fukuoka Castle ruins, the impressive Kyushu National Museum and many shrines and temples. Meanwhile, the modern Fukuoka is found in places like Canal City, a striking multi-level shopping complex with a canal running through it. Add to that a beach and a laid back coastal atmosphere, and it’s hard not to fall in love with this place.

The evenings in Fukuoka are especially enchanting. The riverside becomes aglow with hundreds of lights. It’s lovely to relax at one of the many riverside cafes just watching the boats as they cruise up and down the river, especially the smaller, traditional long boats gently propelled through the canals by an oarsman with a bamboo pole.

We wanted to make the most of our final day in Fukuoka, knowing it would also be our last day in Japan, and I found the perfect spot to spend it. The Shimasakurai Shrine, a beautiful Shinto shrine in the Itoshima area, turned out to be an ideal choice. This hidden gem is set on a stunning beach, surrounded by hilly countryside.

We took the bus which took around an hour, getting off a couple of stops before the shrine at the start of the bay, allowing us to stroll the entire length of the beach towards the shrine. We were blown away by this picture perfect bay dotted with charming and quirky little seaside cafes. The bay had a distinctly tropical vibe, thanks to the abundance of palm trees in the landscape, something that felt refreshingly different from what we’d seen elsewhere in Japan

We strolled down the beach towards the shrine, joining a small crowd of visitors all eager to take photos of this beautiful Shinto shrine. The Shimasakurai Shrine holds a unique charm, made even more special by the presence of the Meoto Iwa, or Married Couple Rocks, that are situated just beyond it. These sacred rocks, connected by a traditional shimenawa rope, symbolise unity and strength. Both pilgrims and travellers come here to seek blessings and admire the stunning coastal views.

True to their reputation for organisation and courtesy, the Japanese visitors had formed a neat queue directly in front of the shrine. This thoughtful arrangement allowed everyone to patiently wait their turn, ensuring that each person could capture the perfect photo of the shrine with the Meoto Iwa rocks framed beautifully in the background. It was a refreshing experience not having to worry about having your shot interrupted by eager Instagrammers.

Pleased with the photos we had taken on the beach we made our way up the hillside to the heart shaped tree located within the sacred grounds of Futamigaura Park. We were eager to take a photo of this unique tree, but also knew that the panoramic view of the bay from here would be breathtaking and worth the climb. As we reached the top, it became clear that the climb had truly been worthwhile as we photographed the unique tree in its picturesque location overlooking stunning views of the coastline.

We had an amazing last day! Visiting Itoshima was indeed the perfect place to reflect and appreciate the beauty of our time in Japan.

We have loved Japan, it’s a stunningly visual country. Yet, what truly made our experience unforgettable was the warm and welcoming people, the rich culture and blend of familiarity. There’s a comforting sense of home, mixed with intriguing differences. We’re so glad we decided to include Japan in our journey, even though it wasn’t part of our original plans. This unexpected detour has left us with unforgettable memories and a deeper appreciation for this incredible country.

Next we are excited to head to South Korea which looks like an another amazing country. I imagine it will probably have many similarities to Japan. You hear people say it’s same, same but different as I’m sure we will soon find out.

Midlifers Go East