Midlifers Go East
Vientiane
Our first stop in Loas was to the capital which is Vientiane. Not a huge city and known to be laid back in nature, it sits on the banks of the Mekong river. We were very much looking forward to exploring.
Previously under French rule the city mixes French-colonial architecture with Buddhist temples.
Along broad boulevards and tree-lined streets are many notable shrines including Wat Si Saket, which features thousands of Buddha images.
It’s a cosmopolitan city attracting visitors from all over the globe.
One of the main tourist attractions in Vientiane is the ‘Patuxai Victory gate’ which is a war monument in Downtown built between 1957 and 1968. The Patuxai was dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France.
It’s a beautiful building, very intricately detailed. You can climb to the top which I did for just a £1 entrance fee and the 360 views over the city from the top are great.
It’s set within Patuxay park (only a small park) where a water fountain stands in front of the monument which dances along to music.
It was very mesmerising to watch.
There are also a few small food vendors close by where you are able to purchase drinks and snacks.
We returned one evening as wanted to see it as the sun went down.
It was worth the walk up there.
The memorial looked amazing lit up at night and the fountains were in full force dancing with multi coloured lights.
The nightlife was surprisingly good in Vientiane. We couldn’t get over the amount of bars and restaurants throughout the city, it really comes alive at night.
You can also loosen the purse strings in Laos as it’s extremely inexpensive.
Shane got his cheapest beer to date. It was happy hour and 2 for 1 so came in at 28p a glass. Full price was an astronomical 56p.
However saying that, prices can vary place to place and you could pay double that in some of the bars, however still very cheap.
A lot of the bars (probably geared towards the younger clientele) offer these big beer pumps which hold several litres of beer. They bring it to your table and you can then help yourself.
They worked out really inexpensive so many bars were packed with the local youngsters ordering these.
Food is also inexpensive and with a massive selection of restaurants selling local and international food you are spoiled for choice. Along with many cool coffee shops and rooftop bars it’s a great place.
There is also a night market that is situated on the front along the Mekong river. We visited one night but it wasn’t very good.
It’s a big market but mainly counterfeit goods, bags and shoes poorly made.
You can cross over the road to the food market but that wasn’t the best either.
It didn’t tantalize my taste buds seeing the deep fried bugs, next to the fruit stall and next to the squid on a stick stall.
The smells all mingling together were more off putting than enticing.
I’m sure for some it’s amazing just not my taste.
We found that Vientiane had loads to do in the evening but not so much during the day.
You can visit the temples and the Victory gate but apart from that there isn’t too much more.
There is a tourist attraction 15 miles outside of the city called ‘Buddha park’ it’s a quirky giant sculpture garden dedicated to Buddhist and Hindu mythology.
The park was started in 1958 with statues made of reinforced concrete and appear to be centuries old although though they are not.
It’s apparently an Instagrammers paradise and as not historical we thought we would give it a miss.
So the few days we had there were perfect. We got to see everything we wanted to and enjoyed its laid back vibe. Next we are travelling north to the small town of Vang Vieng in pursuit of adventure.
Vang Vieng
We booked the high speed train to take us from Vientiane to the small town of Vang Vieng further north.
The new Laos-China railway
runs between the capital and the northern town of Boten on the border with Yunnan China.
The line was only officially opened in 2021 and makes travelling in Northern Laos much quicker, reducing times to a few hours instead of days.
The roads are poor in Laos so this was not only the fastest but the safest way to travel.
The journey time from Vientiane to Vang Vieng was only an hour by train, whereas the bus takes 3-4 hours.
The train station was an experience to say the least. You are informed to get to the station 1 hour before.
We arrived around an hour and a quarter before to find the station locked and queues of people outside taking shade under the building canopy.
Thankfully, they unlocked the doors an hour before so we got in line. On entering the building they check your ticket and passports, x-ray your baggage, make you walk through a metal detector, and then wand you.
The security procedures are more like entering an airport. You are also not allowed to carry any aerosols or any flammable liquids.
We made it through security into the holding lounge which again more resembled an airport and we had to wait for our announcement.
You couldn’t enter the platform at all as the doors were locked. Only when ready to board were you called into line to check in again.
We boarded the train which was super modern and all the staff were beautifully dressed resembling airline cabin crew.
Once the train got on its way, they announced they would be making their way through the train to check your tickets…. Again!!!
Our journey only took an hour and when we exited the train station guess what they checked? – our tickets again.
At the station there was lots of minibuses waiting in the parking lot to take people into the town.
It was only around a £1 a piece so we jumped into one of those and they dropped us off directly at the hotel.
Vang Vieng is surrounded by striking limestone mountains and the hotel I had chosen had a spectacular view of these from our balcony.
It’s popular with tourist especially backpackers, it’s known for the many adventure sports you can do along with amazing hikes, viewpoints and of course, the Blue Lagoons.
It gained popularity in the 90’s as the party capital of Southeast Asia. Young backpackers would swarm here for their backpackers ‘rite of passage’ – Vang Vieng tubing on the Nam Song River.
Bars lined the banks of the river so they would basically pub crawl whilst tubing, getting totally wasted on drink and drugs, then they would jump into the river from rope swings – some known as the “death swings”.
Unfortunately, it didn’t end well and within a short space of time there were many fatalities so the government banned it in 2012 and it was given a safety makeover and most the bars lining the river were closed.
Tubing still takes place today, only on a much smaller, more sensible scale nothing like it was and the rope swings have gone.
Nowadays, Vang Vieng is trying to build itself a new reputation for its outdoor activities away from tubing and focus on the spectacular scenery and surroundings.
This is why it’s also a popular place to take a ride in a hot air balloon and ballooning in Vang Vieng is considered one of the most affordable rates in the world and the scenery will be spectacular.
Paramotoring is also a thing here, similar to a hang-glider, they glide through the air with a motorised parachute.
You can also kayak, zip line, rock climb and visit the many caves.
There are Buggies to rent by the hour to explore the countryside at your own pace.
Many youngsters hire mopeds but the roads are so poor here that it’s not really advisable.
Away from the main areas around the town you won’t find many tarmac roads just dirt tracks.
The bridges in Vang Vieng are a step back in time.
There are a couple of foot bridges that are just bamboo with wooden slats.
These are only narrow and they scare the living daylights out of you as they bounce, especially when people are coming in the opposite direction and you have your pass each other.
The Namsong bridge is the only other bridge over the river in Vang Vieng which you can drive a car or motorcycle over.
I don’t think I’d fancy driving a car over it.
It’s also really springy and the wooden planks are falling to bits.
It looks like the only thing holding it together are the sheets of metal they have run in two strips the whole stretch of the bridge.
Luckily, just a little bit further up the river a brand new concrete bridge is under construction and almost completed.
The nightlife here is still great even if the crazy days of tubing have now passed.
The town has loads of bars and restaurants, many overlooking the river with decks which can take advantage of the sunset.
There’s no shortage of coffee shops, bakeries and restaurants serving Lao and international cuisine.
We even got to have a taste of back home here with a Sunday roast and cottage pie.
On the other side of the river, just over the bamboo bridge was a restaurant that has lots of tables and chairs lining the riverbank.
It looked like it was a really popular hangout and busy with many locals who were enjoying the food and the music.
We were looking forward to doing some hiking whilst here and visit the caves and lagoons but what do I go and do? I stub my toe on the bedpost of all places.
I’m not sure if it’s broken but it’s been quite painful to walk.
So we ended up being leisurely, taking strolls along the riverside and stopping for coffee.
Probably did us some good and gave us chance to recharge.
Who’d be foolish enough to go hiking in 38 degree temperatures anyway!
So, we didn’t really get to experience Vang Vieng as we’d hoped to but it didn’t dampen our spirits too much. We were still able to admire the dramatic scenery and certainly enjoyed the nightlife.
Next stop we are back on the train still heading north to the UNESCO town of Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang
We continued our journey north using the Lao-China railway once again.
This new railway is a godsend as the journey only takes 50 minutes on the high speed train but if we had opted for the bus the journey takes 5 and a half hours as the roads are poor and the area is mountainous.
It was the same rigmarole as last time with the security measures but the station felt a lot more relaxed and not half as busy as Vientiane, but I suppose that was to be expected being the capital.
The scenery was spectacular and we passed through many tunnels, 50 minutes later we’d arrived.
Luang Prabang Station is about 12 km from the historic centre where we were staying.
From our previous experience we headed to the minibuses in the parking lot that will take you into the centre for a little over a pound per person, taking around 25 minutes.
Arriving in the historical area we could see immediately why this place had been added to the UNESCO World Heritage list. We couldn’t wait to drop our bags and explore.
We had that same feeling we had experienced back in ‘Galle’ in Sri Lanka – when you know immediately you have arrived somewhere special.
Luang Prabang, the former capital of Laos, is known throughout Asia for its natural beauty, cultural landmarks and stunning riverside views of the Mighty Mekong river.
To get a full picture of its unique beauty it’s best to explore on foot and by walking around. It’s easy to see the main highlights from Wat Visoun temple to Wat Xiang Thong, the Royal Palace Museum and Mount Phousi.
Every street is beautiful and around every corner it’s worthy of another photograph. Add into the mix stylish colonial buildings, beautiful restaurants, cool cafe bars, French style patisseries, chic boutiques and art galleries.
We loved strolling through the old quarter which has a very relaxed atmosphere. Stopping for coffee and lunching on French baguettes and watching the world go by.
Hotels, restaurants and cafe bars line the riverside with decks out front overlooking the Mekong. Superb to watch the sunset over a cocktail or two and watch the riverboats sailing by on a sunset cruise.
The markets here are also very much a part of daily life.
Directly outside our hotel was the morning market.
Vendors Selling local fruit, vegetables and meats on the lane right next to where we took breakfast.
It was nice to observe the authentic life of local people during the morning hustle and bustle.
By noon it was all over, the streets swept and cleaned all ready for the following morning.
The night market was also only a stones throw from our hotel on the main road running through the historic centre.
Each night from 5pm the street is pedestrianised and lined with many stalls selling clothing and souvenirs.
When a night market is held every night, you know it has to be an amazing one!
As well as the shopping it also has an enormous food market packed with lots of interesting street food to try, it’s definitely a treat for your tastebuds.
The Food stalls are set up all around the outsides of a large square and then tables with benches occupy the centre.
I suppose it’s best to describe it as a large food court and food and drink can be purchased at any of the vendors to take back to your seat.
It was jammed packed every night with locals and tourists alike.
We absolutely loved it!
I would leave Shane to mind the table whilst I wandered off to find us something tasty to try.
We would finish one dish then off I would go again to find the next amazing dish.
We were never disappointed, we were in food heaven.
Each morning in Luang Prabang there is an Alms giving ceremony where the Monks accept food offerings at sunrise in a Laotian Buddhist ritual that starts on the main street.
We set our alarm clock for 5am so we could get involved and witness this ceremony which takes place between the hours of 5.30-6.30am
Awaiting the monks are the Lao people who have already taken the time to prepare sticky rice and other foods for the monks.
Tourists can also get involved as I did and purchase a small amount of food to offer to the monks, if taking part remember you do have to dress respectfully and cover your arms and legs.
The sight of the saffron robed monks lining the street to collect the food is truly awe-inspiring and I’m so glad we made the extra effort to rise early to witness it.
Just opposite the national museum is Phousi hill also known as Phousi mountain.
Phou Si, which means “sacred hill” is about 100 meters high. Although it is quite a climb to the top, it is worth the effort. From the top you have great 360 degree views of Luang Prabang, the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers and the forested mountains.
On the top is a small Buddhist temple and as you make your way down the other side of the hill there are many shrines and Buddha images.
One of the attractions close by to Luang Prabang that’s not to be missed is the Kuang Si waterfall which is located 16km out of the city.
There are a few popular waterfalls in the area but this one is on the list of most beautiful and most visited waterfalls in Laos with stunning turquoise cascading pools which are the perfect place to seek some refuge from the Laotian heat.
You can trek to the very top of the falls or just admire their beauty, swim in the pools and also visit the Bear Rescue Centre which is also located in the park.
We particularly admired the natural beauty of the flora and fauna surrounding the falls and the pools. There were so many different species of butterflies and dragonflies. It felt like we’d arrive at the garden of Eden.
We booked a half day tour to see the falls and the tour also took us to a local village so we could buy some handmade souvenirs to help support the local community.
You don’t have to go there by organised tour, you can also take a taxi or Tuk Tuk.
So this brings our time in Laos to an end. This sweet city has definitely captured our hearts and we will be sad to leave.
We were considering travelling to the south of Laos, but with transport so poor and no trains running in the south, it would take a day and a half in a bus to the area we wanted to visit and that wasn’t really a journey we wanted to endure.
The 3 places we have visited have given us a taster of this beautiful country and we could always visit the south at a later date.
Next, we move onto Cambodia.
We are flying into Siem Reap to start our adventures at the amazing temples of Angkor Wat.
Hopefully this lives up to the hype (I’m sure it will), as this is one place we have been looking forward to visiting from the beginning of our travels.
