Ulcinj
Our journey into Montenegro was going to be an easy one. Shkodër sits so close to the border that we were able to take a bus, and even with the border crossing, we arrived in the Montenegrin town of Ulcinj just 1 hour and 20 minutes later. Ulcinj was the first place we’d chosen to stay, and we were looking forward to beginning our Montenegro adventure there.
The main bus station was on the outskirts of the new town, around a 30–40-minute walk from castle and beach area. We couldn’t get a taxi immediately as we needed some euros first, so it was off to the ATM and then we’d weigh up our options from there.
The nearest ATM was about a 10-minute walk away, and once we had that sorted, we decided it was probably easier just to walk to the apartment. We were in no rush, so we’d take our time and enjoy the walk.
What we hadn’t anticipated was the steep hill.
And it didn’t let up.
Every time the road bent, we hoped it might finally level out, but no… it just kept climbing. Whose idea was this? Mine, actually. And to make matters worse, it was the middle of the day and absolutely roasting in the midday sun.
We eventually stopped for a brief rest in a shaded spot at the side of the road while I tried to book a taxi. I made several attempts through MonteGO, Montenegro’s equivalent of Uber, but nobody accepted the ride. So, with no other option, we picked up our bags and carried on. This was going to be hard work.
We’d only just got going again when a car pulled over beside us. A lady got out and, before a word had even passed between us, I knew what she intended to do. She opened the boot, started taking our bags and simply said, “Get in.”
There was nothing remotely scary about the whole thing. In fact, I had never been so grateful to see someone pull over.
So we hopped in.
Her husband could speak a little English and explained that they had driven past us earlier, heading down the hill, and he could see we were struggling. When they reached the bottom, he had said to his wife, “I’m going back. I’m going to help that couple.”
They drove us the few minutes to our apartment. It was such a short distance by car, but on foot, in that heat and with our bags, it would have felt like a very different journey.
We were so grateful for their simple act of kindness. Before we got out, he just smiled and said, “It’s what we do.”
How lovely was that?
And just like that, our first experience of Montenegro had already given us a wonderful reminder that sometimes the best travel memories aren’t the places you visit, but the people you meet along the way.
I hadn’t anticipated quite how hilly Ulcinj was. The reviews for our apartment had said it was just 15 minutes from the beach, but there had never been any mention of a hill! On the positive side, we had some great views, and it looked like we were going to be getting some serious steps in while we were here.
An hour later, we felt rested enough to head into town. At least we were now free of the heavy luggage, and thankfully it was all downhill. We decided not to think too much about the climb back up just yet!
We headed towards Small Beach first, the little town beach nestled in a cove, sheltered by the rocky headland on one side and the castle on the other. We decided we wouldn’t venture into the castle just yet, as that meant heading back up a hill — that could wait!
Before dropping down to Small Beach, we followed a pathway towards the headland, where we discovered a small area that looked inviting for a swim. People were stretched out on the concrete bases of what must once have been some sort of building. The sea here was deep but incredibly clear, and it looked like a great place for a swim. But not today — we wanted to explore a little more first.
So we continued down to Small Beach, where a promenade lined with shops and restaurants runs along one side. Being peak season, the beach was absolutely jam-packed, with sun loungers crammed in next to each other. There was a large public area too, but that was just as busy. There wasn’t much room to lie on the sand, although I’m sure we’d still manage to find somewhere to get in for a swim.
The whole little town had a real holiday vibe, stretching all the way around the bay towards the castle. There was even a bar area along the promenade, which you could imagine would be buzzing later in the day.
It definitely felt like the kind of place that would come alive as the afternoon turned into evening.
We spent the remainder of the afternoon exploring more of the town. Ulcinj isn’t a big resort, and most of the accommodation seems to climb up the hillside, so wherever you stay here, there’s probably going to be a hill climb involved!
We did manage a swim as well. We found a perfect spot in the corner of Small Beach where we could leave our bags on a wall, which also doubled up as a seat, right by the sea. The sea here is really shallow, so we were expecting the water to feel like a hot bath. However, it was surprisingly cool, which was lovely, even if we could only wallow!
We decided to stop for a drink and stock up on a few groceries before contemplating the walk back. After all, we’d already enjoyed the downhill journey into town — now came the less appealing part!
The climb wasn’t too bad. We found a few shortcuts, although these did involve a lot of steps! Thankfully, they were shaded, which made a big difference. We definitely got the heart rate up, that’s for sure.
We were so happy when our apartment block finally came into view. There was no way we were going back out again — we were done for the day!
I’d read there was a nice coastal path you could walk to Long Beach, which, as the name suggests, is huge — stretching for 13km and apparently the longest beach on the Adriatic. So the following day we decided to walk the coastal path there.
It was a lovely walk, starting off downhill before we followed the road away from Small Beach. We passed a few beach clubs and restaurants with sunloungers and access straight into the sea. We checked out a few as they looked like they could be worth a visit while we were here, and the sea looked so inviting.
The road eventually ended and we joined the coastal path, which wound through pine forest with the sound of cicadas all around us. I love the smell of pine and the sound of the insects — it felt very Mediterranean.
We passed a few spots where people were swimming off the rocks, with the sea looking so blue and inviting. The path wasn’t too difficult, although there was one section with a few drops towards the sea that Shane wasn’t too keen on. They weren’t sheer drops, but he’s definitely getting worse in his old age!
Eventually we reached a dirt track near the headland, which Shane was much happier about, and then Long Beach finally came into view.
When we arrived at Long Beach, you could see it stretching for miles, but it wasn’t really our type of beach. We were going to head down there, but the water looked really shallow, just like at Small Beach, so we decided we’d enjoyed the walk and would head back and have a swim at Small Beach instead.
As Shane was still a bit concerned about that section of the coastal path he hadn’t liked, we decided to take the roadway back. It was only a couple of miles into town. It wasn’t the most interesting walk, but at least Shane felt safer!
It was so hot though, around 35°C at the moment, although at least we were getting our steps in. There were a few places to stop for drinks along the way, which was definitely needed.
Once we got back into town, we headed to Small Beach and back to our little spot where we could leave our bag on the wall and get straight into the sea for a swim.
We hadn’t yet visited the castle, so the very next day we decided that’s exactly what we’d do. We headed around past Small Beach to the little port area, where the taxi boats leave from. They take people out on trips and also head over towards Long Beach.
From here, there are some steps leading up to the castle, which actually weren’t too bad — certainly not as bad as they looked! Once you pass through the old stone archway, you enter what feels like another world. This isn’t just a castle you wander around and then leave; it’s a living castle, with homes, hotels, restaurants and people going about their everyday lives tucked amongst the old stone walls. There were lovely views overlooking Small Beach and the headland, and it was fascinating seeing how people actually live within this historic setting.
It’s not very big, but we loved exploring the little streets. There were pretty corners everywhere, with vines trailing over walls, flowers spilling out from pots and lovely old stone buildings. We just mooched around, taking our time, stopping every now and then to take photos and see where the next little street would lead us. It was one of those places where there was no real need for a plan, we could just wander and enjoy it.
We were staying in Ulcinj for quite a few days, so we decided to treat this as a bit of a holiday. Most of our travels involve jam-packed days of sightseeing, so this time we wanted things to be much more beach-orientated.
Over the next few days, we searched out different beaches, and the little coves appealed to us much more. Just past the castle, we found a lovely little bay, quite small, with a decked area and sunbeds, as well as a little section where people could just lie down on their towels.
A little further around, we found another one, and this was even better. It quickly became our favourite and the one we kept coming back to over the next few days.
We returned to the castle one evening. We’d already been up and down that hill once that day, but somehow we’d found a bit more energy and thought, sod it, let’s go for it!
We were so glad we did. We found the most spectacular restaurant with the perfect spot to watch the sunset. Sitting there as the sun slowly disappeared over the horizon was just lovely. These are the moments you remember, and I don’t think we could have found a better place to sit and watch it.
We took our time wandering back home afterwards, and coming out at night also meant we got to see the area leading up to the castle come alive. It was only around 9pm, so things were still just getting going, but we got a little taster of what it must be like later in the evening when everywhere is buzzing.
We definitely got our steps in while staying here, that’s for sure! In some ways, all those hills made us stay in a little more, which wasn’t necessarily a bad thing. Thankfully, we had an apartment where we could put our feet up, watch a film and just relax.
But one thing was certain — once a day up and down that hill was more than enough for us!
Our time was coming to an end, but we’d really enjoyed our little holiday, as we’d called it. We’d revisited the castle a couple of times for another mooch around and found another favourite beach along the coastal path. There always seemed to be more of a breeze here, which was very welcome in the mid-30s heat.
And this was only the start of our little adventure in Montenegro. Next stop was Kotor, one of the country’s top coastal destinations and a popular cruise port, so we were really looking forward to seeing what it was like.
And, more importantly, our hotel was on the flat. Yay! No more steps — well, at least for now!
Kotor
Next stop, Kotor, and this was one we’d really been looking forward to for a few reasons. Firstly, it was on the flat — no more hill climbing for a few days! The old town looked beautiful, so we couldn’t wait to explore it, but the best bit was meeting up with my sister who I hadn’t seen in over a year. She and her husband were on a cruise, and Kotor was one of their stops. When we realised we were going to be within reaching distance of each other, I didn’t hesitate to time our visit so we could be there together.
We were arriving a few days earlier, giving us time to suss the place out and plan a lovely day for our meet-up.
The bus journey from Ulcinj was a scenic ride along the coast. We passed through Budva, a town we’d thought we might try to visit, but if we didn’t get the chance, at least we’d had a glimpse of it from the bus.
After Budva, the bus left the coastal road and headed towards the impressive mountains. This was where things started to get really dramatic, as Kotor is nestled at the head of the Bay of Kotor, a spectacular winding inlet of the Adriatic Sea surrounded by towering limestone mountains. The further we travelled, the more impressive the scenery became, and it felt like we were heading into a completely different world.
Another bonus was that this time our hotel was only a five-minute walk from the bus station — hallelujah!
It was so hot that even those five minutes felt like hard work, but I’m not complaining. I was just very thankful that, for once, there were no hills involved! After all the hill climbing we’d been doing, a flat five-minute walk felt like an absolute luxury.
We walked the short distance into the old town that first afternoon, and it was easy to get lost in the maze of little streets. Every corner seemed to reveal something pretty.
One thing we quickly realised was that Kotor is very much a cat town. There were cats everywhere, lounging in doorways, wandering through the streets and generally looking as though they owned the place — which, judging by the number of cat souvenirs and even a cat museum, they probably do!
The old town was gorgeous, with pale sandstone buildings, green shutters and narrow alleyways winding between them. Some of the smaller streets led slightly uphill, with houses tucked into the mountainside that must have incredible views across the bay. We wandered from one little square to another, discovering beautiful churches and soaking up the atmosphere.
There was a real buzz around the place, with tourists filling the streets, many of them on day trips from the cruise ships that regularly visit Kotor. And with the spectacular scenery surrounding the town, it was easy to see why it’s such a popular stop. The Bay of Kotor is surrounded by towering limestone mountains, creating one of those dramatic backdrops that makes you stop and think, wow!
We wandered further into the quieter little alleyways, where we found hidden squares with small bars and restaurants tucked away in the corners. We could imagine these places coming alive later in the evening, once the heat of the day had disappeared and people settled in for dinner and drinks.
For now, though, we were very grateful for the shade offered by the narrow streets because it was so hot. We eventually came across some steps leading up towards the old town walls, so naturally we decided to head up them, and the views across the harbour were fantastic. One of the cruise liners was docked in the bay, looking enormous against the mountains. We also spotted a restaurant getting ready for a wedding that very afternoon. What a setting to celebrate a special day — surrounded by those mountains and with the bay as a backdrop. It really would be hard to find a more beautiful location.
It was absolutely roasting up on the walls, though, so we didn’t hang around for long. We soon found another staircase leading back down into the old town and decided that, as lovely as Kotor was, we needed to find some water!
We left the old town and crossed over to the promenade, where we followed the water for a good half hour. It was lovely walking along here, passing little beach clubs and waterside restaurants, with small hotels and houses facing directly onto the bay. It looked like such a beautiful place to live. I suspect you’d never get bored of waking up to that view.
A little further along, we found the perfect spot for a swim, tucked away from the crowds. This was exactly what we needed. The water was so refreshing, and after being baked by the afternoon heat, it felt wonderful to cool down. We stayed for a while, enjoying the chance to relax before making the walk back towards town.
Later that evening, we headed back into the old town to see what it was like after dark, and it was a completely different atmosphere. The streets were still busy, but now people were strolling around rather than rushing about in the heat, and the restaurants tucked into every corner were buzzing.
We stopped for a few drinks, finding a good spot to sit and take it all in — watching people wander past and enjoying the atmosphere. There’s something I really love about sitting somewhere with a drink in hand and absolutely nowhere you need to be.
A little later, we came across a bar with a younger crowd and some good music playing, so naturally we had to stop for one more. We were more than happy to have a nightcap there before eventually calling it a night.
We’d had a great first day in Kotor — beautiful old streets, spectacular mountain views, a swim in the bay, a few drinks and, of course, enough cats to keep us entertained.
The next day, we decided to take the bus to the little town of Perast, around 20–30 minutes from Kotor’s old town. We’d spotted a bus stop near where the cruise liners come into the bay, and the Blue Line buses run regularly around the Bay of Kotor, so it seemed an easy way to get out and see a little more of the area.
When we arrived at the bus stop, there was already a queue forming, so we guessed a bus must be due soon. We only had to wait around 10–15 minutes before one arrived, and we managed to get on — although it didn’t take long to realise that getting a seat wasn’t going to happen!
The bus quickly filled up, and then, at the next stop, there must have been another ten people waiting. Somehow, they all managed to squeeze on. Then came another stop, and more people. By this point, we were looking around thinking there was absolutely no way anyone else could possibly fit, but the driver clearly had other ideas. He kept shouting for everyone to “move down”, as though there was still plenty of room!
Thankfully, once we left Kotor behind, the stops became quieter and people started getting off rather than on, so we gradually had a little more space to breathe. It was certainly an entertaining start to our trip, though!
When you arrive at Perast, the bus stops up on the hillside above the town, and this gives you the most wonderful first glimpse. Looking down, we could see the pretty little town stretched along the waterfront, with its church standing proudly among the rooftops and, just beyond it, the two tiny islands sitting in the sparkling blue water — Our Lady of the Rocks and St. George.
It really was a beautiful setting, so naturally we stopped for a few photos before making our way down the steep road towards the old town.
Perast is small, but that certainly doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see. The little streets and beautiful stone houses were every bit as pretty as those we’d fallen in love with in Kotor. We wandered down towards the waterfront, passing the beautiful church before heading left to explore.
Along the promenade were restaurants, little souvenir shops and places offering boat trips around the bay. Everything felt very tasteful and relaxed, and there were people swimming in the wonderfully clear water along the shore. We wandered along for a while, taking in the views and enjoying the pretty surroundings before eventually turning around and heading back in the other direction, towards the islands.
At one point we came across another wedding being set up — that’s two weddings we’d stumbled across in two days! A man was practising on the violin, and the music drifting through the streets was beautiful. With the mountains, the bay and those little islands just offshore, it really was another incredible setting for a wedding.
It was still incredibly hot, though, and we were definitely feeling the heat. We considered going for a swim, especially with the water looking so inviting, but decided against it. We didn’t really fancy getting on a bus back to Kotor soaking wet! Probably a sensible decision, although at the time, with the heat, we did wonder if we’d made the right choice.
We’d seen enough to know we were impressed with Perast, though, and a few hours was plenty of time to wander around and take in this beautiful little town.
We made our way back up the hillside to the bus stop, thankfully only having to wait a few minutes before the next bus arrived. And this time we struck lucky — there were seats! After our rather cramped journey there, sitting back and relaxing was very welcome.
The journey back to Kotor seemed to go much quicker than the journey there, and before long we were back in town. Rather than heading straight back, we decided to have another wander around Kotor’s old streets. It was such a beautiful place that we didn’t want to feel like we’d missed anything, and we were determined to explore every little nook and cranny before my sister arrived the following day.
We found a few more hidden corners that we hadn’t discovered on our first day, which was perfect because we wanted to make sure we knew all the best places to take her. After all, tomorrow wasn’t going to be just another day exploring Kotor — it was going to be extra special.
My sister was finally arriving, and after more than a year without seeing each other, we couldn’t wait.
An early night was definitely in order. Tomorrow was going to be a big day.
Finally, the day we’d been waiting for had arrived — my sister was coming to Kotor!
She’d told us that her cruise ship was due to arrive around 7 a.m., but as they had to anchor further out in the bay, they would need to come ashore by tender. She thought it would probably be around 9 before they managed to get off, so we agreed on a meeting place just outside one of the entrances to the old town.
We were ready and waiting, and then, around half past eight, I got a message from her saying they were on their way.
I had my sister on the tracker, so I could follow her progress as they made their way towards us. I was getting more and more excited as that little dot got closer, and when I knew she was only a few hundred yards away, I was standing there looking out for her.
And then, finally, I spotted them.
They hadn’t seen me yet, so naturally I thought I’d have a bit of fun and briefly hid behind a car, planning to jump out and surprise them. It didn’t quite work, as they soon spotted me!
What happened next was like something straight out of a movie. We both started running towards each other and met in the middle for the biggest hug. We were doing that ridiculous hugging dance where you’re both rocking from side to side because neither of you wants to let go.
And that was when the emotions really hit.
Even though we speak regularly, there’s something completely different about actually seeing someone in front of you again and being able to give them a proper hug. After more than a year apart, it was just so lovely to finally have my sister right there with me.
Once we’d composed ourselves, she handed us some little gifts she’d brought from home — Walkers cheese and onion crisps and a bundle of tea bags!
How wonderful! It’s funny how the simplest things can feel like absolute luxury when you’ve been travelling for a long time. A packet of crisps and some proper tea bags from home — perfect gifts!
My sister was with her husband, so once the greetings, hugs and gifts were all exchanged, the four of us headed into the old town.
She loved Kotor straight away. They had come from Dubrovnik and, although both places are beautiful, she said Kotor felt a little more unpolished — but in a really authentic way. She loved the narrow streets, the old buildings and the fact that you could wander around and discover something around every corner.
We spent the next couple of hours showing them around, chatting, catching up and generally trying to fit more than a year’s worth of conversation into a few hours. It was so lovely having them there and seeing Kotor through their eyes too.
Of course, it was absolutely roasting again, so before long we decided that the best thing we could do was take them for a swim.
We didn’t walk quite as far along the promenade as we had the other day, but we found an equally good spot and settled in for a much-needed dip. The water was wonderfully refreshing, and it was great to cool off together after wandering around the hot streets.
Eventually, hunger won out, so we headed back towards the old town in search of somewhere nice for lunch. We found a lovely restaurant where we could sit, relax and enjoy a proper lunch with a few glasses of wine — exactly what was needed!
There was plenty of laughter, lots of chatting and catching up, and it felt like we were making the most of every minute together. After lunch, naturally, we needed something sweet, so we found somewhere for cake and continued our afternoon of eating, drinking and talking.
It really was a brilliant day.
The only problem was that time absolutely flew by.
Before we knew it, it was time to walk back towards the cruise gates and say goodbye. We saw them safely back to where they could catch the tender to the ship and stood watching and waving as they headed off across the bay.
Normally, saying goodbye after such a lovely day would have felt quite sad, but this time it wasn’t quite the same. We’re going to be home soon, so it wouldn’t be long before we saw each other again — just a week or so.
It had been such a special day. After more than a year apart, getting to spend a whole day together in such a beautiful place was something I’ll remember for a long time.
And I’m so glad we’d made the decision to time our visit to Kotor around their cruise stop. It had been absolutely worth it.
And with that, our time in Kotor had come to an end.
We’d had three lovely days here, and it had turned out to be everything we’d hoped for — beautiful old streets, spectacular mountain scenery, refreshing swims in the bay, plenty of wandering and, most importantly, a very special day spent with my sister.
But we had one more stop in Montenegro before moving on into Croatia.
Our next destination was somewhere that had actually been recommended to us while we were in Sarandë, Albania. We’d been told we should visit Herceg Novi, and after doing a little reading about it, we decided it sounded just too good to miss.
Herceg Novi sits at the entrance to the Bay of Kotor, right at the point where the bay opens out towards the Adriatic. It would also bring us much closer to the Croatian border, making it the perfect final stop in Montenegro before we crossed into Croatia and continued on towards Dubrovnik and, eventually, Split.
It sounded lovely, and we were intrigued to see how it compared with the other places we’d visited around the bay. We’d already fallen for Kotor and Perast, so could Herceg Novi live up to them?
There was only one way to find out.
So, bags packed once again, we said goodbye to Kotor and set off for our final Montenegrin adventure.
Next stop… Herceg Novi.
Herceg Novi
Our stay in Herceg Novi was only going to be a short one, just a few days, but after hearing about it from a couple we had met in Sarandë, Albania, we were looking forward to seeing what it had to offer. It would also bring us closer to the Croatian border and our next stop, Dubrovnik.
The bus journey from Kotor was a lovely way to arrive. The route travelled all the way around the beautiful Bay of Kotor, passing through the small waterfront villages that cling to the edge of the bay.
Then, about twenty minutes from Herceg Novi, the bus developed a rather worrying clicking sound. We pulled over and the driver and his mate got out to investigate, trying to work out where the noise was coming from. Unfortunately, they couldn’t resolve the problem, so we waited while another coach was arranged. Thankfully, around half an hour later, we were all transferred onto the replacement bus and back on our way. It could have been much worse and, fortunately, it didn’t cause too much disruption.
Once we arrived, we had the inevitable walk to our apartment. Unfortunately, it was uphill — something we’ve become very familiar with during our travels! It wasn’t quite as punishing as some of the hills we’d tackled in Ulcinj, though, so we just took our time and eventually made it there.
After getting settled in and having a bit of a rest, we headed out to explore.
At least the walk from here was downhill! We made our way towards the castle, which sits above the old town. By the time we reached it, it was early evening and, as it was almost closing time, we decided not to go inside. We could always come back for a daytime visit if we got the chance.
Instead, we followed the steps down into the old town.
Almost immediately, we found ourselves wandering through narrow streets lined with lovely old stone houses. The steps eventually opened out into a pretty square, where the first thing that caught our eye was a beautiful church. Around it were a handful of restaurants, their tables and chairs spilling into the square, with people enjoying dinner.
It was very tempting to stop there and join them, but we’d only just arrived and wanted to explore a little more before settling somewhere.
So we carried on, discovering more lovely streets and little squares as we went. The old town had a great atmosphere, with plenty of people out for the evening, browsing the shops and boutiques or heading out for dinner. It felt lively without being too hectic, and we were already getting a good feeling about Herceg Novi.
Eventually, we found a nice bar with a great spot for people watching, so we stopped for a drink and simply enjoyed watching the world go by for a while.
From there, we continued downhill towards the waterfront.
The promenade was really lively, with plenty of people out enjoying the evening. There were cafés and bars running along the waterfront, many with tables offering beautiful views across the water and the mountainous bay beyond. Every now and then we could also catch glimpses of the castle high above the old town.
We were impressed.
For somewhere we’d only just arrived, Herceg Novi had already made quite an impression on us. It had the combination we always enjoy — beautiful scenery, an interesting old town, plenty of places to eat and drink, and enough going on to keep us interested without feeling too busy.
We were particularly glad we’d taken the advice of the couple we’d met in Sarandë and decided to include it in our travels. Sometimes recommendations from fellow travellers turn out to be the best ones.
We had another drink along the waterfront before eventually deciding it was time to make our way back to the apartment.
Of course, that meant going uphill again!
Thankfully, the temperature had cooled down a little by then, so the walk wasn’t quite as challenging as it might have been earlier in the day. We just took our time, stopping whenever we needed to catch our breath, and eventually made it back.
The following day we headed back into the old town, this time with plenty of time to explore it properly.
In daylight, we could appreciate it even more. We discovered more interesting little squares and churches, along with some beautiful old properties and hotels perched in prime positions overlooking the bay. There was something lovely around every corner, and we were enjoying simply wandering without having to worry about where we were heading.
As we made our way back down the steps towards the seafront, we came across the old clock tower. We’d passed through this area the previous evening, but seeing it in daylight gave everything a completely different feel.
Down by the water, the small bays were already busy, with people swimming and sunbathing, while along the beach promenade people were enjoying brunch at the many inviting cafés and bars. Music was playing, people were chatting, and there was just a really good vibe about the place.
The promenade stretches for miles, so we decided to make the most of it and walked for a couple of miles, taking in the views and enjoying the atmosphere along the way.
Eventually, we decided that was enough for us. We knew we’d have to tackle the uphill climb back to the apartment and didn’t want to use up all our energy before we’d even got there!
We’d already decided that once we were back, we weren’t going to head out again that evening. Sometimes it’s nice to have a quiet night in, especially when you’re travelling for such a long time.
Once again, we’d managed to find ourselves a really good apartment. This one had a fantastic fitted kitchen, complete with an oven — and that immediately got my mind ticking about what I could actually make.
While we were thinking about dinner, we also decided we’d find a good film to watch later and have a proper chilled evening.
The apartment also had a lovely garden patio, with a garden filled with grapefruit and lemon trees, as well as olive trees, which seem to be pretty standard around these parts. It was a lovely little space to sit and relax, and it really did feel like a home away from home.
And having an oven at our disposal got me thinking about something I hadn’t made in a very long time — bread!
Why not? I had a bag of flour with me and, as I’m not your usual traveller, I also had a small pouch of yeast tucked away. So, rather than letting them continue their journey around Europe unused, I thought I’d give bread-making another go.
It had been a long time since I’d made bread, so I wasn’t quite sure how it would turn out. I mixed everything together, left it to rise and hoped for the best.
And amazingly, it did actually rise!
Even better, it tasted pretty good too. I was quite pleased to discover that perhaps I hadn’t completely lost my touch after all.
Although, if I’m being honest, it was probably just a fluke! Ha!
Still, there’s something rather satisfying about making your own bread when you’re travelling, especially when you’ve spent so long eating out and grabbing food on the go.
So that evening we settled into our little apartment, enjoyed our homemade bread, found a film to watch and relaxed.
Not a bad way to spend an evening in Herceg Novi at all.
We had one last day in Herceg Novi and, having already explored the old town and walked along the waterfront, we found ourselves debating what to do with our remaining time.
We had considered heading to the beach or the castle, but in the end decided we were quite happy staying put and enjoying the garden at the apartment.
I could catch up on some writing, while Shane could happily spend hours going through the hundreds of photos he’d taken. It was actually a lovely way to spend the day, sitting outside amongst the lemon, grapefruit and olive trees, doing our own thing without having to rush off anywhere.
We’d originally thought we’d head out for a walk later in the day, but as the afternoon passed, we were perfectly happy where we were. Instead, we decided to cook again, settle in and enjoy another relaxing evening at the apartment.
It was probably a good decision because we had an early start the following morning.
We needed to leave just after 7am, to walk down to the bus station to catch the early bus to Dubrovnik, Croatia.
I’d deliberately booked the early bus after reading that, at this time of year, being peak season, the queues at the border can really build up. The earlier we crossed, the better our chances of avoiding the worst of them.
So we’d enjoyed our final quiet evening in Herceg Novi, knowing we’d be up early and heading into Croatia the next morning.
Let’s hope the early start pays off!
