Kathmandu
Nepal wasn’t originally on our list. But after chatting with other travellers, it got us thinking. It borders India, so surely it was worth looking into.
It didn’t take long to realise it couldn’t be missed. It was literally on our doorstep, with cheap flights, and it wasn’t just about trekking. Of course, we enjoy walking, but big expeditions and base camps like Everest or Annapurna were well beyond what we were prepared for. Still, the country had so much more to offer and not just the Himalayas — and the more we read, the more we knew it was the perfect next stop.
After three months in India, we were ready for a change of country, culture, and climate — and Nepal offered all of that.
With a flight time of around 1.5 hours, we arrived in Kathmandu late afternoon. Even at arrivals, the vibe felt much less chaotic. We were offered a taxi, but not pounced on like in so many places. The temperature was also noticeably cooler, which was a welcome change.
We agreed a fare and were soon on our way to Patan, the area we were staying in. We’d read that Patan isn’t quite as busy as Thamel, the main tourist area, and we were ready to slow down. So we booked an apartment for the week.
There was still plenty to see historically in Patan, which made it the perfect choice.
The only thing we weren’t looking forward to was the pollution. Unfortunately, the air wasn’t going to be any better here than in Delhi. Kathmandu sits in a valley, and at this time of year, pollution from a few different factors gets trapped close to the ground.
We really could feel it — the air was heavy, and it didn’t help that we were also at altitude. Kathmandu sits at about 1,400 metres (4,600 ft) above sea level, actually higher than the summit of Ben Nevis, which we never realised.
It probably didn’t help that I was on the tail end of a virus, so I’d definitely be wearing a mask for the time being. But it was still all good — from what we’d seen so far in the taxi, we really liked the look of the place.
Our apartment was perfect. Being on the road for so long, we really need this now and again — just a bit of normality. With a small kitchen, lounge area, and a washing machine, it offered exactly that. Yeah, we’d be catching up on a few TV shows — we already knew it.
And that’s exactly what we did. We even did a big shop — ooh, get us. What helped was that the weather was a bit iffy for a few days, so we were quite glad of it. Feet up, binge-watching a few shows, washing done — the simple things.
We didn’t cook at all, as we were looking forward to trying new cuisine. We were happy to wander the quirky streets in the evenings and sample a few restaurants. They didn’t disappoint either. There was so much Nepalese food that we liked the sound of, and what we tried in the first few days was delicious and ridiculously good value. Oh yes, we were going to like it here.
Another bonus was that the rain had definitely helped with the pollution. With clearer skies, the air didn’t feel so toxic, which was a blessing. We were rested, relaxed, and ready to explore.
Right on our doorstep was Patan Durbar Square — a stunning collection of temples, courtyards, and palaces all packed into one square.
You have to pay a small fee to enter, but it’s well worth it. There were amazing, intricate wood carvings and details everywhere you looked. What we really liked, though, was the mix of it all — locals going about their day, people sitting on the steps, and the quiet hum of everything happening around us.
We quickly noticed that people in Nepal enjoy sitting and watching the world go by, and we loved that. So many of us live in a rushed world, so it’s refreshing to see people just sitting quietly or gathering with friends to chat.
Taking our time, we explored the Royal Palace, one of the most striking examples of traditional Newar architecture. The palace stretches along one side of the square, forming a grand backdrop to the temples and courtyards in front of it. Its red brick façade and intricately carved wooden windows are especially remarkable — almost lace-like in detail, with carvings of gods, mythical creatures, and floral patterns throughout.
Inside, the palace opens into a series of quiet courtyards — shaded spaces that once formed the heart of royal life.
Afterwards, we explored more temples and the museum, then flopped into one of the cafés surrounding the square — perfect for a drink and a bite to eat.
After lunch, we wandered through the old streets of Patan (also known as Lalitpur). Narrow lanes wind between tightly packed brick buildings, all with beautifully carved wooden windows and doors, their details weathered but still stunning.
Shops sell metal statues, paintings, stone carvings, and traditional masks, with artisans often working right at the front — chiselling, painting, or polishing. Small cafés pop up every few steps, and temples appear tucked into courtyards or at street corners.
One temple we came across was the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar). Unfortunately, parts of it were covered in scaffolding for restoration. Temples like this are centuries old, and while they’re incredibly well cared for, they still need ongoing maintenance — especially after the 2015 earthquake.
Despite this, it was still beautiful. Passing through a modest doorway, we entered a peaceful courtyard. The temple itself is smaller than you might expect, but it’s the intricate detail that makes it so striking. The entire structure is covered in gold-plated metalwork, with statues of Buddha and other deities surrounding it. Prayer wheels line the courtyard, monks moved quietly through the space, and the air was filled with the gentle scent of incense.
As we continued walking, the streets opened slightly and we came across peaceful stupas — white domes with painted Buddha eyes watching in all four directions, surrounded by colourful prayer flags swaying in the breeze.
We were loving Patan. It’s the kind of place where you don’t just walk through — you slow down, notice the details, and feel like you’re stepping into layers of history.
One day, we took a taxi to Bhaktapur, another of the ancient cities in the Kathmandu Valley. From the moment we arrived, it felt different — quieter, more traditional, and somehow even more preserved, like stepping further back in time.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square sits at the heart of the old city, and like Patan, it’s a collection of temples, palaces, and courtyards — but here, everything feels a little more untouched. The streets are calmer, with fewer cars and more open space, and life seems to move at an even slower pace.
One of the first things that stood out was the architecture. The traditional Newar buildings are beautifully maintained, with red brick façades and intricately carved wooden windows and doors. Many of the structures date back centuries, and you can really feel the history in every corner.
We wandered through the square, passing the Vatsala Temple, the 55-Window Palace, and the iconic Nyatapola Temple — the tallest temple in Nepal. Climbing the steps of Nyatapola, you’re rewarded not just with the scale of the temple itself, but with great views over the square below.
What we loved most, though, was wandering beyond the main square. Bhaktapur has a very lived-in feel. Locals sit outside their homes, potters shape clay by hand, and traditional crafts are still very much part of daily life. In some areas, you can see people making pottery in open squares, their hands covered in clay as they shape bowls and pots on simple wooden wheels.
Food is also a big part of Bhaktapur’s identity. We couldn’t resist trying the famous king curd — a creamy, slightly sweet yoghurt known locally as juju dhau. It’s served in a clay pot and tastes as good as it sounds.
As we explored, we came across small courtyards, hidden temples, and quiet corners where life just carried on as it has for generations. Unlike some more tourist-heavy places, Bhaktapur still feels very authentic, and we really liked that.
There’s a small entry fee to visit the city, but it’s well worth it. The money helps preserve the incredible heritage here, and you can see how much care goes into maintaining everything.
We had another incredible day — what a beautiful place to experience. So full of history and character, it’s definitely somewhere we’ll always remember.
Before we knew it, we’d been in Patan a week and had really enjoyed it. We hadn’t seen the Himalayas yet, but we weren’t really expecting to due to the weather. On clear days — usually early in the morning or after rain — you can apparently catch glimpses of snow-capped peaks in the distance, but they’re not super close or dramatic from most city spots.
For truly stunning Himalayan views, people usually head just outside the valley. Places like Nagarkot or Dhulikhel are known for wide, panoramic views — even parts of the Everest range on very clear days. But with the forecast still looking unsettled, we didn’t see the point of a long day trip if we still couldn’t see a thing. Hopefully we’d get our chance when we head to Pokhara — we’ll wait and see.
To mix things up, we decided to spend a few days in Thamel, the main tourist area in Kathmandu.
I booked a new hotel, and it was only about a half-hour taxi ride. This time, we were right in the heart of it — may as well be in the thick of things.
As our taxi made its way through the narrow streets, we could tell straight away there was more going on. Almost every other shop was a trekking shop, and although we weren’t planning on trekking, we were more than happy to do a bit of shopping — out with the old, in with the new.
It was late afternoon by the time we’d settled in, but we didn’t mess about — straight out in search of a bit of retail therapy. We liked the vibe of Thamel immediately. It had more of a buzz, with lots of international travellers, and plenty going on.
After shopping, we went in search of the best momos — which had quickly become an addiction.
Momos are little dumplings filled with chicken, buffalo, or vegetables, found everywhere in Nepal. They can be steamed, fried, or served in a rich, spicy broth called jhol. Chicken momos quickly became our favourite — soft, juicy, and best steamed, dipped in a fiery chilli sauce, or soaking in a steaming bowl of hot, spicy jhol. However they’re served, we can’t get enough of them.
We found some really good ones — the perfect way to end the day. After all the wandering, sitting down with a plate of steaming momos and an ice-cold beer felt like a great decision.
Thamel isn’t all trekking shops (although there are plenty), so the following day we headed out to explore more of the history, making our way towards Kathmandu Durbar Square.
Along the way, we passed a large stupa, its white dome standing out against the busy streets. We stopped for a moment and ended up in a rooftop café overlooking it — the perfect spot to take it all in. And of course, we couldn’t resist ordering more momos. See — told you, an addiction.
When we reached Kathmandu Durbar Square, we weren’t sure what to expect. After visiting Patan and Bhaktapur, we wondered if this one would compare — but it absolutely held its own.
There’s a palace here too, which we explored, wandering through its courtyards and taking in the history. Stepping back out into the square, everything felt alive. It was buzzing — locals sitting on temple steps, chatting, watching the world go by.
Nearby, people lit candles at shrines, and an artist had set up with a huge canvas, carefully painting the scene in front of him. The smell of incense drifted through the air — one of our favourite smells — and above it all, a few monkeys darted across the rooftops… and you know how much we love monkeys.
Bicycle rickshaws are more common here in Thamel than in Patan. Brightly painted and decorated with silk flowers, they carry people — mostly tourists these days — around the area. They were everywhere in Delhi, but this was the first place we’d seen them in Kathmandu. We were offered rides, but we were more than happy to walk.
With only a few days in Thamel, we wanted to make the most of it. On our last full day, we planned a trip to two of the most well-known sites — Boudhanath Stupa and the Monkey Temple.
First stop was Boudhanath, about a half-hour drive back towards the airport.
Boudhanath Stupa — also known as Khasti Chaitya — is one of the most important religious sites in Nepal, and one of the largest stupas in the world. Its huge white dome and the square tower above it, painted with the all-seeing eyes of Buddha, make it instantly recognisable. The eyes represent awareness and compassion, watching out in all four directions.
The whole area has a calm, spiritual feel, especially compared to the busier parts of the city. Locals and pilgrims walk clockwise around the stupa — a ritual known as kora — spinning prayer wheels and quietly murmuring prayers.
There’s also a strong Tibetan influence here. After the Chinese occupation of Tibet, many refugees settled around Boudha, and today the area is filled with monasteries, prayer flags, incense shops, and rooftop cafés with great views over the stupa.
After walking around a few times, we found another rooftop café — perfect for soaking it all in. This time, just drinks… we’d save the momos for later.
Next, we took a taxi across the city to Swayambhunath Stupa — better known as the Monkey Temple.
Thankfully, we’d read a tip that you can skip the 350 steps by getting dropped near the top. Call it lazy if you like — we were more than happy with that decision. We walked down afterwards, so it all balances out!
Perched on a hill overlooking Kathmandu, it offers some of the best views over the valley. It was a little cloudy, but still impressive — and it could have been much worse.
The site itself is a mix of temples and shrines, with the main stupa at the top, similar in style to Boudhanath. Prayer flags stretch out in every direction, adding colour and movement to the whole place.
And then, of course, the monkeys.
There are loads of them — on rooftops, railings, statues, and wandering among visitors. They’re considered sacred, but they’re also cheeky and quick. We kept a close eye on our belongings, but not everyone did. We saw a few bags of food get snatched — which, we have to admit, amused us a bit. They’re fast!
On the way down, there was a double handrail, and it was hilarious watching some of the monkeys sliding down it. You could tell they were loving it — honestly, it was brilliant to watch.
We weren’t totally lazy either, as we decided to walk back to the hotel afterwards — get the step count up a bit.
So that brought our time in Kathmandu to an end. Tomorrow we fly to Chitwan to visit the national park. It was only while researching Nepal that we realised you could actually go on safari here, which really surprised us.
The area is home to a large population of rhinos, as well as tigers and lots of other wildlife and birdlife. It’s in southern Nepal, near the border with India, and is considered tropical/subtropical — so it’ll be back to warmer weather.
It sounds perfect for us. We love seeing wildlife, and it’ll give us the chance to experience a completely different side of Nepal.
Chitwan
To get to Chitwan, we chose to fly. You can take a bus, and it’s probably not too bad, but we’ve seen enough documentaries showing those mountain roads in Nepal with hairpin bends. Maybe it’s just a few sections like that, but it was enough to put us off, so we went for the easy option—a 25-minute flight.
Not to say that came without a bit of a fear factor on a small propeller plane, but for us, it was definitely the preferred choice.
Even though it’s a short flight, there’s probably not much difference once you factor in airport wait times. The aircraft we were on was a 42-seater, and our bags didn’t even fit in the narrow overhead lockers—we just crammed them by our feet. Before we knew it, we were up… and back down again.
It was just a tiny domestic airport—baggage claim was basically a shelter right by the car park. You got off the plane, collected your bags, and jumped straight into a taxi. You didn’t even need to go into a terminal… how great is that?
We were staying in Sauraha, a laid-back little town on the edge of Chitwan National Park, and is essentially the gateway for visitors heading into the park.
Accommodation was all pretty reasonable. We booked a riverside resort about a ten-minute walk from the main street, after reading reviews that mentioned seeing wildlife and birds right from the property. It sounded perfect—and it was. Set in lovely gardens by the river, and with it being much warmer here, there was also the added bonus of a very inviting pool.
It was noticeably more peaceful here. The sounds of different birds filled the air, and you could hear the familiar call of peacocks coming from across the river. It had a really relaxed vibe.
With the higher temperatures, it was back to shorts and T-shirts—and mosquito repellent back out again.
We relaxed in the gardens for the remainder of the day, and as the sun set, we were in the perfect spot to watch one of the most beautiful sunsets. The reflection of the setting sun on the river was outstanding. We sat back and took it all in while staff at the hotel lit a fire and started a BBQ—the smell of meat grilling filled the air, making us hungry.
We didn’t stay for dinner, though, as we wanted to take a walk down to the main street and grab something to eat there.
For such a small town, the main street was filled with guesthouses, cafes, bars, restaurants, and a handful of tour shops. Colourful bunting was strung overhead, adding to the charm. There were also large statues of an elephant and a rhino, reminding you what this place represents. Even the street benches were decorated with different animals from the park.
Even with so many places to eat, the main street in Sauraha felt surprisingly quiet. There just weren’t many people around, which made the whole place feel really relaxed and easygoing.
Maybe it’s just because it’s March and not peak season, everything was open, just at a slower pace.
Not too far from our hotel was the Chitwan Elephant Breeding Centre, so the following morning after breakfast, we decided to walk over. The walk took us along a road running parallel to the river, through local villages. We really enjoyed it—it had a laid-back, rural vibe.
The locals live a simple life here, farming small, family-run plots. We passed lots of rice paddies, along with other crops like wheat and maize. Many people keep goats and chickens, and even buffalo, which are especially important for ploughing fields and helping with farm work.
Dogs wandered freely, and the people were incredibly friendly, all saying hello as we passed by.
To reach the breeding centre, we crossed a small suspension bridge with steel cables—it was a bit bouncy as we walked across. Not a big one, but enough to make you feel it. It definitely freaked Shane out a bit—he hates anything like that—and to be honest, I’m not a big fan of them either when they start bouncing.
Halfway across, we saw the most beautiful kingfisher flying by, which landed on one of the steel cables. We couldn’t take its photo as we just wanted to get to the other side—oh how we’ve gone all scaredy-cat in our older years.
The Elephant Breeding Centre in Sauraha was set up to help protect and breed Asian elephants, which are an endangered species. It’s a place where they care for elephants, including mothers and their calves, and you can learn more about their role in conservation and the work they do here.
The centre also plays a practical role in supporting park operations—historically, elephants bred here have been used for tasks like patrolling the forest and other work that helps manage and protect the national park’s ecosystems.
But when we arrived, we didn’t quite expect to see the elephants chained up. It was something we didn’t really like seeing. When we spoke with a guide, he explained that each morning at around 10:30 they’re unchained and taken into the jungle by the staff, where they spend time moving around and feeding before returning later on.
It wasn’t far off that time, so we waited and watched as each elephant was unchained by their individual caretakers, who then rode them into the jungle, with the young following freely behind.
So while they are exercised and looked after, it wasn’t quite what we had in mind. This aspect reflects the ongoing challenges of balancing tourism, conservation, and animal welfare—something that’s increasingly discussed around elephant tourism in the area.
We took our time walking back, stopping for a coffee along the way.
Back at the hotel, the pool was definitely calling. I had a feeling it was going to be cold, but at least it would be refreshing… and we were wrong—it was freezing. Even swimming up and down didn’t really warm you up. Safe to say, one dip was enough, and we were quite happy to dry off in the afternoon sun.
Later, we walked back into town for dinner. Nothing had changed overnight—it was still quiet. We found a restaurant with some live music and a handful of people there to support it. Before we knew it, the musician even came over and joined us for a chat.
It turned into a really nice, relaxed evening, and we didn’t make it a late one as the next morning we had to be up early. I’d booked a half-day safari, so an early night was definitely on the cards.
Chitwan National Park is one of Nepal’s top conservation areas and is home to all sorts of animals, including one-horned Indian rhinosceros, which are one of the highlights for many visitors. This vulnerable specie has the largest remaining population of here.
Along with deer, wild boar, elephant and sloth bears—and if you’re lucky, even a tiger. It’s also full of birdlife like kingfishers, hornbills, peacocks, and a wide variety of waterbirds along the river and in the forest.
We were picked up at 7am, and the hotel prepared an early breakfast before taking us into town to join our tour. Large groups were gathering by the riverside, and after being registered, we were taken down to the Rapti river, where we crossed in groups on long, narrow boats to reach the national park.
The unnerving bit was that we had already seen around four large crocodiles basking on the riverbanks. But we stayed positive—they do this every day, so I’m sure we’ll be okay.
We then walked a short distance as a group to where the jeeps were parked. We were on a shared tour, with 10 of us in the jeep. We were really looking forward to it—safaris are always exciting, with the anticipation of what you might see.
Excitement grew as we set off along the bumpy tracks through the jungle. The guide said we’d pass through different terrain, through forest and open areas, all in the hope of seeing different animals. What I love about these safari tours is scanning the jungle, always on the lookout. The drivers and guides are obviously doing the same, but it’s great to feel like you’re part of the search—more eyes is always a good thing. I’d chosen the morning drive, as animals tend to be more active early in the morning when temperatures are lower.
We hadn’t been driving long when we came across a large group of spotted deer. They blocked the track for a moment, but as we edged closer, they quickly scarpered into the grassland.
We got extremely lucky just a little further on—our first sighting. Two rhinos were out there, grazing in a wide open area, half hidden in the tall grass.
It was incredible to see them so early on. We tried to get closer to take photos, but as we edged forward, they slowly moved away, almost disappearing back into the grass.
Still, we’d seen them—how amazing!
After that, we saw a whole array of wildlife and birds, especially lots of peacocks. You hear them before you see them—I love the sound of their call. One had its feathers on full display, calling out and slowly turning around—there was most definitely a female nearby.
We also saw many other birds, especially by the rivers. One unusual one was called the oriental darter, often nicknamed the “snake bird” because when it swims, only its long, thin neck sticks out of the water—making it look like a snake gliding along the surface. And of course, along the rivers there were crocodiles.
There are two types in the national park. The gharial is easily recognised by its very long, thin snout. It mainly eats fish. The other is the mugger crocodile, which has a broader, more rounded snout. These are more adaptable than gharials and eat fish, birds, and small mammals.
After that, we then had our second sighting of a rhinoceros—this time with a calf. It was incredible to see the mother and her young one together, moving slowly through the landscape. There’s something really special about witnessing such a rare and powerful animal with its baby in the wild—it felt like a moment we were very lucky to experience.
We also visited the crocodile breeding center within the national park, which was fascinating. It’s dedicated to the conservation of the gharial, being a critically endangered species. The center helps protect the young by hatching eggs and raising the juveniles in a safe environment before releasing them back into the rivers when they are strong enough.
Seeing the different stages of the gharials was really interesting—from tiny hatchlings to much larger individuals preparing for release. The gharial itself is quite unique, with its long, thin snout perfectly adapted for catching fish.
With low agression Gharials are much less territorial than other crocodiles. They group together often piled on top of each other, apparently they do this to keep warm as cold bloodied, and in the wild if limited space on riverbanks, rather than fight over space they just coexist in piles. It almost looks like they are cuddling but in reality it’s about keeping warm and making the most of the space.
We had never seen this species before; we didn’t even know it existed.
It’s amazing to see the work they do here and the efforts being made to protect them
We then headed back, following the same route we had come. You could definitely see the difference as it got later in the day—there were far fewer sightings, as many animals seemed to be resting after their morning feeding.
However, we were incredibly lucky to see the Gharial along the Rapti River, which felt really special after seeing them in the breeding centre. We found out that a sighting like this is actually quite rare. Seeing one is a privilege, but spotting a small group huddled together was even more of a rarity — so it was fantastic to watch them resting close together on the riverbank.
Having seen several endangered animals in different places, it really stood out to us how ancient these species are — far older than humans — yet many are now relying on human protection to survive. Seeing that in person felt both fascinating and a bit unsettling, and it’s left a lasting impression on us about how important it is to protect them.
In the latter part of the tour, we spotted a few deer, and birds, but not much more. However, we did come across a vehicle stationary ahead, so they had obviously spotted something. Our driver approached slowly so as not to scare it off.
It was a sloth bear—and there were two of them. Unfortunately, we must have disturbed them, as they darted off as soon as we arrived. I caught a brief glimpse before they disappeared deeper into the forest. There was no time to take a photograph, which was a shame—but you can’t win them all.
We could hardly complain though—we’d seen a really great mix of wildlife, and getting to see the rhino was amazing, especially as it’s one of the main draws of the national park. We didn’t get so lucky with tigers; our guide said there’s probably only around a 5% chance of seeing them. There are healthy numbers of Bengal tigers, and Nepal has actually done an amazing job of increasing their population, but spotting one here in the wild is still rare.
Lucky for us, we’d already seen them in Ranthambore, India.
We spent the remainder of the day relaxing back at the hotel. Enjoying the peace and quiet whilst we could, as tomorrow we move on once again. This time we are chancing the tourist bus as we travel to Pokhara. I’d read that it’s a more relaxed drive—still winding in places, but not as chaotic and notorious as the one from Kathmandu.
Pokhara sits by Phewa Lake and is often described as a laid-back lakeside holiday town. For many, it’s the gateway to the Annapurna Circuit and other treks, with the mountains rising dramatically just beyond the city.
For us, we’re looking forward to some relaxed lakeside walks and, with a bit of luck, if the clouds clear, we might get a glimpse of the Annapurna Range in the distance—something we’re really hoping for.
Pokhara
The drive from Chitwan to Pokhara ended up being fine, just like we’d read. There were a few sections that were quite high and a few winding roads, so Shane would probably disagree with me. But overall, I thought it was enjoyable, extremely scenic, and only took around 3.5 hours.
We arrived at the bus depot, and the weather took a turn for the worse—the heavens opened. We ended up sitting in a café at the bus station until it eased off. If the weather continued like this, we’d have no chance of seeing the Himalayas.
Slightly damp, we took a taxi to our hotel, which was close to Phewa Lake, it was a good job we’d bought jackets in Kathmandu, as we knew they were going to come in handy if the rain continued. Driving the short distance to the hotel, we caught glimpses of the lake and could see how beautiful it was. If we didn’t know better, we’d think we’d arrived at Lake Windermere—not a bad thing, as we love the lakes back in England. It was nice—it made us feel right at home.
After check-in, the rain was still holding off, so we went for a wander down what we’ve called the Main Street running parallel to the lake. This area of Pokhara is known as Lakeside. First impressions were good—definitely a lot going on and busy with international travellers. There were so many restaurants, cafés, and shops; a much busier vibe than Chitwan.
We had a bit more retail therapy—well, Shane more than me. He was on a spree! He’d definitely have to do a swap and throw his old stuff out, that’s for sure… or layer four T-shirts on the next flight—ha!
Later on, we thought we’d check out the local nightlife. It’s really quite buzzing here and many of the restaurants have live music, we landed on a good one that was just starting to get busy. And guess what—we ordered some momos! Thankfully, we’re still loving them. This time, we tried them tossed in a sweet chilli sauce with onions and peppers. Verdict: off the scale—delicious. The chicken dish we ordered was just as good, as were the Mustang potatoes, another favourite. The Nepali people really know how to spice up a potato wedge, that’s for sure.
There are so many great Nepalese dishes — many we still need to try. We do keep mixing it up, but of course no meal is complete without an order of momos on the side — we’ve definitely become Momoholics.
The following morning, the air had cleared and it was much brighter—weather-wise, great for a walk. We headed to the lakeside path first. It was the weekend, so it was busy with locals taking advantage of the water sports available. Many were already out on the lake paddleboarding, kayaking, or in small boats.
The path is lined with restaurants and cafés, so it was nice to see people relaxing and enjoying breakfast—it had a lovely vibe. Our plan for the day was to walk around the lake and take the hiking trail to the World Peace Pagoda. You can see it perched on the hill overlooking the lake—hopefully, the trail won’t be too strenuous.
With the directions we were following, we could only walk along the lakeside path for a while, after which we had to continue on the road. It wasn’t too bad, though, as there were plenty of shops to browse along the way.
It led us to the dam on the far side of the lake, and from there we continued towards the hillside behind. The directions weren’t very clear, though, and when we reached what appeared to be the hiking trail, we asked a local man if this was the way.
He was a bit vague and told us to walk further on, which we did. Then another local pointed the way but wanted to tag along. We hate it when that happens—we don’t want a guide, we just want to walk by ourselves. We know he didn’t mean any harm, but he kept lingering, so in the end I said to Shane, “Come on, we’ll walk the driving route instead.”
The road that led up the hillside was steep and winding — phew, it was going to be a strenuous one. We could see the tip of the pagoda, which from here looked quite far away. I suggested we could take it in stages and go at our own pace.
Slowly climbing and following the road, we came to a small kiosk on one of the bends. We’d only been climbing for 10 minutes, Shane said it was like a mirage—so funny. Good job we’re not doing any big treks.
We stopped for a drink, a quick hydrate, then pushed on. After another 10 minutes, a taxi passed us and offered a ride—hallelujah, perfect timing. We were so happy we took him up on the offer, as I think we’d underestimated how far uphill it was.
Shane was a bit freaked out by the number of sharp bends and sheer drops; I tried not to look. I must admit, I was happy when we reached the pagoda. I don’t know which was worse—the walk or the taxi.
Even from here there were still a good amount of steps to climb, we were tired just doing this, imagine if we’d walked all the way.
The Peace Pagoda is a Buddhist stupa built to promote peace and non-violence. These pagodas aren’t just local temples—they’re part of a global movement and represent peace after conflict, especially post-WWII.
There’s 80+ worldwide, this one’s the most famous in Nepal.
The views from the pagoda were pretty impressive. You get to see the lake, the surrounding hillsides, and the city spread out below. Unfortunately for us, we couldn’t see the spectacular Himalayan Annapurna range as it was hidden behind the clouds — typical. Such a shame when you know it’s there but just out of sight.
After the unnerving taxi ride up, we decided to walk back down. It was a bit of a trek, but at least it was all downhill. To stay safe, we walked as close to the cliff edge as possible, steering clear of the cars, buses, and scooters passing us by.
We stopped once more at the “mirage café” (my new name for our roadside kiosk) before walking all the way back to our hotel in Lakeside. We definitely clocked up some miles today, which felt good — we’d been slacking lately.
The weather was very mixed during our time here — it can change so quickly within a single day, mainly because Pokhara sits between the lowland plains and the foothills of the Himalayas. So it’s typical for this time of year, in the pre-monsoon season, to be sunny in the morning and then cloudy with thunderstorms in the afternoons.
We had this for a couple of days, so when it was pouring down, we used the time productively — writing, sorting photos, and more. It takes up a lot of our time, but we know we’ll be grateful for it when we look back on these moments in years to come.
During this time, we kept looking out to see if we’d catch a glimpse of the peaks, but unfortunately there was nothing — they were always covered in cloud.
However, we had a glimmer of hope, as the forecast was showing full sun for our last couple of days. So, being optimistic that it wouldn’t change, we booked a sunrise tour to Sarangkot Viewpoint, one of the most famous viewpoints in Pokhara, known for its stunning panoramic views of the Himalayas.
If it stayed clear as forecasted, we should be able to see peaks like Annapurna and Machapuchare (the iconic “Fishtail” mountain).
It was an early start to catch the sunrise. We were picked up just after 5am by minibus, and the drive took around 30 minutes along the mountain roads. It was a good job it was still dark, as Shane wasn’t looking forward to the drive up. I told him he’d just have to close his eyes, as I was sure it would be worth it.
The drive up wasn’t too hair-raising. We kept catching glimpses of the mountains — finally, we could see them. We were in for a treat.
The moon was spectacular too: a full moon, so big and bright as it was setting. I couldn’t get a photo in time, as the road twisted and it disappeared from view.
Many people hike up, and we passed a few doing just that — it takes around 2–3 hours depending on the route and your fitness level. We definitely preferred our option.
We reached the parking area, where there are a few small cafés and tea stalls, and from there climbed the steps up to the viewing platform.
Just before the top, there’s a small, atmospheric temple area and a large, impressive statue of Ganesha overlooking the valley.
When we reached the platform, we were treated to the most incredible view of the Annapurna mountain range—our first full sight of the Himalayas.
Standing almost at the centre of the range is Machapuchare (the “Fishtail”), with its striking peak.
Annapurna I, which lies further to the left, is on another level—it’s one of the 14 peaks over 8,000m worldwide. We read some interesting facts: Machapuchare is considered sacred and has never been officially climbed, while Annapurna I is known as one of the most dangerous mountains in the world to climb.
It’s even considered more dangerous than Mount Everest, despite Everest being about 758 metres taller, as the routes on Annapurna are steeper and more complex. Historically, roughly 1 in 3 climbers died (though this has improved with modern equipment, it’s still very high).
It was beautiful watching the colours change over the snow-capped mountains as the sun rose—the sky shifting through hues of orange and pink. As the sun appeared, it cast light onto the higher peaks.
The morning looked perfect at first glance, but a gentle haze lingered over the range, softening the sharpness of the peaks. We tried our best to capture it, and we’re certainly not complaining—it could have been much worse. The haze made the mountains look slightly less defined.
We watched until the sun was up before checking out the temple and the statue of Ganesha. The 360-degree views from here offered sweeping vistas across the whole valley and the lake, all the way to the Peace Pagoda—you can see why it’s such a perfect viewpoint, and why it’s well worth getting up early to experience it.
Back at the hotel, shops and cafés were only just opening up; to us, it felt like the middle of the day.
We grabbed some breakfast and took a slow morning, relaxing for a couple of hours before heading out on a lakeside walk. The forecast had been spot on—it turned into a lovely warm day. The lake was alive with activity, no doubt thanks to the good weather, with people out paddleboarding and kayaking across the water. We were more than happy to simply stroll along the walkway, taking it all in and enjoying the calm atmosphere.
It was such a beautiful evening that we decided to return to the lake path as the sun was just setting. The atmosphere was lovely—a mix of people relaxing and chatting on benches or sitting on the steps, watching the sunset. Families gathered with picnics while the children played, and street vendors sold snacks, chai, and balloons. Bunting and fairy lights made the walkway feel especially romantic, set against the stillness of the lake and the soft pink sky. It was a far cry from a few nights earlier, when we were out in umbrellas and raincoats—ha!
It was our last evening, which felt a bit sad—we’d really warmed to Pokhara and its relaxed vibe. We’d loved the food here, so we knew exactly where to go for our final feast. Tomorrow we fly back to Kathmandu, though you can also take the bus; however, the journey is said to be very “Nepali”—with winding mountain roads and plenty of bumps—so flying was the obvious choice for us.
We woke the next morning to clear skies again, and once more we could see the tips of the peaks from the lakeside. It felt like a perfect farewell.
We made our way to the airport and were immediately wowed by the view there—the mountain range stretched out in full, an incredible sight to see one last time. Even better was the view from the small prop plane taking us to Kathmandu. We were luckily seated on the left side, so we had views of the Himalayas for much of the journey. The only slight drawback was sitting right by the propeller, which obscured part of the view at times—but we couldn’t complain. We could have just as easily been on the other side and missed it altogether.
We had to return to Kathmandu, as it’s from here that we continue our adventures. Next stop: mainland China. We’re really excited for this one. It’s such a vast and varied country that we couldn’t possibly see it all, but we’ve planned a route that should give us a great mix of history, culture, diverse landscapes, wildlife, and modern cities.
