Skopje
It had been a long day getting to Skopje. Our early morning flight from Tbilisi meant we had to be in a taxi to the airport at 2 a.m. As we were leaving, the partygoers were only just heading home.
We had a six-hour layover in Istanbul, which wasn’t ideal, but we managed to make use of another of our airport lounge rewards—a definite perk of travelling so extensively. It made the wait far more comfortable and helped the time pass quickly before our onward flight to Skopje.
As it was late afternoon by the time we arrived, we were at least able to check straight into the apartment we’d booked right in the centre of town, giving us the chance to relax and freshen up after a very long day of travelling.
We only decided on North Macedonia as our next destination about a week beforehand. After Georgia, we looked at several possible itineraries, with the Balkan countries emerging as the front-runners. We’d read that many of them are still far more affordable than much of the rest of Europe, making them an attractive option.
When I found a reasonably priced flight to Skopje, it sealed the deal. Its central location also made it the perfect starting point for exploring the region.
Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, was heavily damaged by a catastrophic earthquake in 1963. Over 80% of the city was destroyed or badly damaged. While the Old Bazaar fared better than most areas, it wasn’t completely untouched and several landmark buildings were lost.
The city was then rebuilt almost from scratch, introducing wide boulevards, raw concrete buildings and rows of apartment blocks. This Brutalist style still dominates much of the centre today, although since 2010 many buildings have been given a facelift as part of efforts to give the capital a more classical European look and attract more tourists.
I’d done my usual research into what there was to see and do. The Old Bazaar sounded like exactly the sort of area we’d enjoy, so naturally it was the first place we headed that evening.
It was still hot, and even the short walk across to the bazaar took it out of me. Shane wandered off and climbed the steps to Skopje Fortress to photograph the remains of the 6th-century hilltop stone castle. I sat in the shade in a small park beside the bazaar and enjoyed the chance to cool down for a while.
He finally returned, and we wandered into the bazaar. It immediately exceeded our expectations. Lively, narrow streets were filled with cafés and restaurants, with tables and chairs spilling out onto the pavements. It was colourful too, with vibrant murals adding character, and every café looked inviting. They even had their own umbrella street. We’d seen a few of these by now, but it’s still a quirky and charming way to brighten a street while providing some much-needed shade at the same time.
We had a lovely evening, enjoying a few drinks and sampling the local cuisine in one of the traditional restaurants. All in all, our first impressions of Skopje were very positive. However, after such a long day, it was time to retire for the night.
The following morning, we found a supermarket just across the road and stocked up on a few breakfast essentials before heading out. We love doing that whenever we stay in an apartment and have the facilities to cook. It doesn’t always save us money, but it’s more about having a few home comforts that we’ve come to appreciate while travelling.
With our supplies stocked up and fuelled for the day, we were looking forward to exploring.
We headed first towards Macedonia Square, which lies on the right bank of the Vardar River. One thing you can’t help but notice in Skopje is the sheer number of statues — they seem to be everywhere.
The square had its fair share, especially the giant statue of Alexander the Great on horseback above the large fountain, the centrepiece of the city.
We later read that Skopje is nicknamed the “City of Statues”. Most of these prominent installations were erected between 2010 and 2014 as part of the “skopje 2014 project” the same project that involved giving many of the city’s buildings a more classical facelift.
We then made our way towards the river, where three pedestrian bridges sit close together. The most iconic is the Stone Bridge, which connects Macedonia Square with the Old Bazaar. It dates back to the 15th century, built during the Ottoman period, and has survived multiple earthquakes and rebuilds. Today it remains one of Skopje’s most recognisable landmarks.
Next is the Eye Bridge, lined with 28 statues of rulers, saints and ancient kings. A little further up is the Art Bridge, which features 35 sculptures, each honouring a Macedonian writer, artist, composer or intellectual.
We ended up zigzagging back and forth across the river to see each of the sculptures along the bridges before venturing back into the Old Bazaar to explore it more thoroughly than the previous evening.
This time we got to wander through the shopping streets. One was lined with jewellery shops, and although we retraced some of our steps from the previous evening, we also came across a bustling market area, a nearby mosque and a small square. It really is a lovely part of the city.
It was here that we stopped to try trileçe. This ultra-moist Balkan sponge cake is soaked in three types of milk and finished with a thin layer of rich caramel topping. It was absolutely delicious—I definitely need to find the recipe so I can make it back home.
Heading back towards the Stone Bridge, passing through another beautiful square with yet another impressive fountain and statue, this time the Olympia Fountain. The square was also home to a beautiful Orthodox church, a museum, a Jewish Holocaust memorial and, of course, even more statues. There were even statues standing proudly on the roof of one of the buildings here.
We then made our way back towards Macedonia Square, where the Triumphal Arch stands at the edge of the open space. Completed in 2012 as part of the Skopje 2014 Project, it’s a bold white marble structure covered in detailed reliefs. Like much of the city centre, it feels very much part of Skopje’s attempt to reshape its identity in stone.
Afterwards we crossed the road into another pedestrianised street. Here we came across the Mother Teresa Memorial House, a museum dedicated to the renowned Catholic nun, who was born in Skopje. Standing alongside it is the stunning Church of Saints Constantine and Helena, whose striking architecture immediately caught our attention.
By this point, we were thoroughly impressed with what we’d seen of Skopje. We’d certainly packed a lot into the day, and after hours of wandering around the city, our legs were beginning to let us know. With only a couple of days in Skopje, we wanted to make the most of our time here. So after another enjoyable evening, we called it a night, knowing the following day we’d be heading out to Matka Canyon.
We caught the local bus, which took around 45 minutes to reach the Canyon. Covering roughly 5,000 hectares, this deep gorge was carved by the Treska River and is home to an emerald-green lake, medieval monasteries and a massive network of hidden caves. As we gradually left the city behind, the scenery began to change — rolling countryside and mountains started to dominate the landscape. It was lovely to see that such dramatic scenery was only a short bus ride from the centre of Skopje.
Once we reached the end of the bus route, it was just a short walk to the Matka Dam, which creates the canyon’s emerald-green lake. From here, you can take a boat trip to Vrelo Cave, hire a kayak or follow the cliff-side walking trail. As we both enjoy walking, that was an easy choice for us.
It was lovely to see a handful of cafés dotted around the water’s edge, along with a beautiful hotel sitting beside a medieval church. What a wonderful place that would be to spend a night.
The narrow trail was carved directly into the cliff face, hugging the edge of the lake for several kilometres. It offered breathtaking views across the water and was mostly flat and easy to follow. There were, however, several sections without any guardrails, so we decided to go only as far as we felt comfortable before turning back.
Once back out of the canyon, we made our way to the bus stop where we’d been dropped off earlier that morning. The only downside to visiting Matka by public transport is that the buses don’t run very often, usually every hour and a half to two hours. According to the timetable, there was supposed to be one at 1 p.m., so we arrived in good time, around half past twelve.
One o’clock came and went. Then quarter past. Then half past. Still no bus.
A local came over and told us the next one was more likely to arrive around 3 p.m. Rather than wait in the heat, he suggested we walk around five kilometres to the next village, where there were more frequent buses back into Skopje. Looking at the map, it seemed like a sensible option. Better still, it was all downhill, which was about the only positive!
So off we went. In the end, it only took us around 40 minutes to reach the village. We grabbed a cold drink while we waited, grateful for a chance to cool down after the walk. About ten minutes later, a bus arrived and took us straight back into the city. It all worked out rather well and wasn’t nearly as much of an ordeal as we’d first feared.
So that brought our time in Skopje to an end. It had only been a short visit, but we’d managed to see a lot in our couple of days and came away with a really positive impression of the city.
Tomorrow, we’d be heading to Lake Ohrid, a place we’d discovered while planning this trip. From everything we’d read and the photos we’d seen, it looks absolutely stunning. We’d booked a bus to take us there, a journey of around three hours, which would give us a chance to see more of the North Macedonian countryside. I already had a strong feeling about Ohrid, which I think is going to be the highlight of our time in North Macedonia.
Lake Ohrid
The bus journey to Lake Ohrid was as comfortable and scenic as we’d hoped. Just three hours after leaving Skopje, we arrived at the lake. From where the bus dropped us off, it was only a ten-minute walk to our hotel, which we’d booked close to the old town.
The vast and picturesque Lake Ohrid is shared between North Macedonia and Albania, with the town of Ohrid sitting on the lake’s northeastern shore.
One of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lake Ohrid is undoubtedly one of the Balkans’ true highlights.
Our first impressions were incredibly positive. We hadn’t even caught sight of the lake yet, but from the main street we could already see the old town climbing gracefully up the hillside, backed by mountains that offered an enticing glimpse of what was to come.
We were able to check in straight away, which is always a bonus. Not wanting to waste any time, we made our way directly to the lakeside. With temperatures soaring, a swim was definitely on the agenda—I couldn’t think of anything more refreshing.
Just five minutes later we reached the shore, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Surrounded by mountains, the lake had an easy-going holiday atmosphere that immediately drew us in. Along the promenade, people relaxed beneath shady trees, stretched out on the grass or sat chatting on the many benches. Others were strolling beside the water, exercising or cooling off with a swim. At regular intervals, stone steps disappeared into the crystal-clear lake, making it easy to take a dip almost anywhere.
Our swim could wait, though—we wanted to explore a little first.
We followed the shoreline towards the ancient old town. It was a wonderful sight, with red-tiled roofs tumbling down the hillside and the spires of historic churches rising above them. In the distance stood the Church of Saint John at Kaneo, perched dramatically on the edge of the cliffs. One look at it was enough to convince us it had to be on our itinerary.
Before long we were wandering through narrow cobbled streets, discovering hidden squares lined with bustling cafés whose terraces made the most of their lakeside setting. Every turn seemed to reveal another charming corner, and it wasn’t long before we were completely won over. It really was postcard-perfect.
Leaving the old town behind, we followed the wooden boardwalk that hugs the shoreline beneath the cliffs. With the sparkling waters of Lake Ohrid on one side and towering rock faces on the other, the scenery just kept getting better. Before long, the boardwalk opened onto a small bay where people were swimming and relaxing on sunbeds outside waterside restaurants, some appearing to be built directly into the cliff. It had such a laid-back feel that we knew we’d be returning here later for our own swim.
Lake Ohrid is known for its smooth limestone pebbles. They’re one of the reasons the water is so incredibly clear, although they do make getting in a little tricky. Thankfully I’d packed my swim shoes, which made life much easier. The water felt chilly at first, but once I was deep enough there was only one thing for it—I took the plunge. Shane decided to give this swim a miss, instead finding a shady bench where he could keep cool.
I could happily have stayed in the lake all afternoon, but eventually I dragged myself out so I’d have enough time to dry off before dinner. We wandered back through the old town by a different route, discovering even more charming alleyways lined with little shops selling handmade jewellery and souvenirs.
By now I was already looking forward to coming back later that evening to enjoy dinner in one of the many restaurants tucked away among the old streets.
As dusk approached, we returned to the old town, this time following the pedestrian street that runs through its heart. Lined with small shops, it gradually led us towards the mosque, while the whole area seemed to come alive as evening fell. Restaurants filled with diners, children queued for ice cream and people wandered through the ancient streets, soaking up the atmosphere.
We found a quaint little restaurant, settled into our seats and rounded off the day exactly as we’d hoped—good food, a relaxed atmosphere and the perfect setting in one of North Macedonia’s most beautiful towns.
The following day, we headed back to the lakeside, this time walking in the opposite direction away from the old town. It was lovely to see so many older locals already out enjoying their morning swim. You could tell this was probably part of their daily routine—meeting friends by the water, taking a dip and starting the day in the best possible way. What a wonderful habit to have.
The promenade is beautifully shaded by trees, with plenty of benches where you can simply sit and admire the view. Running alongside it is a road lined with hotels and restaurants, many with outdoor terraces overlooking the lake.
At the far end, we crossed a bridge beside a small marina and continued along the wide lakeside path. Here, the shoreline opened out into larger grassy areas where people had settled in for the day with chairs, blankets and picnics beneath the trees.
A little further on, we came across a gorgeous lakeside restaurant where you could easily spend an entire day. Sunbeds and parasols were arranged on a deck beside the water, while the terrace offered the perfect spot for drinks or lunch, surrounded by mountains and with views stretching across the lake towards the church perched high on the cliff in the distance.
One of the things we loved about North Macedonia was how affordable it was. Stopping somewhere like this for lunch didn’t cost a fortune, unlike some of the famous lakeside destinations in places such as the Italian Lakes. Yet the scenery was every bit as impressive. The water here looked unbelievably inviting—perhaps even more tempting than the spot where I’d swum the previous day, although I certainly wouldn’t have refused another dip there either.
We passed several more places just like this as we continued along the lakeside path, which seemed to stretch endlessly. These are the moments that remind us why we love travelling—finding places we knew little about beforehand that turn out to be absolute gems.
By the time we turned back, we’d walked a fair few miles. As tempting as another swim was, we couldn’t quite bring ourselves to get wet again, so instead we made our way back towards town in search of a late lunch.
We returned to the promenade just before sunset, which has to be one of my favourite times of day. I love watching the sun shimmer across the water. A few vendors had set up stalls grilling sweetcorn, while families began heading out for their evening meals.
There was such a lovely atmosphere here. It was easy to see why Ohrid is so popular, yet it never felt overwhelming or crowded—it had just the right balance.
We enjoyed a few drinks beside the lake as the sun disappeared behind the mountains. Then, as we wandered back towards the old town, it was wonderful to see the historic buildings and narrow alleyways transformed as the fairy lights came on and the evening began.
It was the perfect end to another day in Ohrid.
After a leisurely morning and a rather late brunch, we made our way back through the old town. This time we climbed the steps at the rear, following the route towards the castle. The higher we climbed, the more of the town unfolded below us—ancient walls, guest houses and tiny cafés tucked into the hillside.
Just below the castle sits the Ancient Macedonian Theatre of Lychnidos, a beautifully positioned amphitheatre overlooking the lake. Built during the Hellenistic period around the 2nd century BC, it was later used by the Romans for performances and gladiatorial contests. Rediscovered in the 1980s, it must have been an incredible setting to watch a performance all those centuries ago. Even today it continues to host events, with a modern stage still set up at the front.
The houses around this area were simply gorgeous. Many had colourful window boxes overflowing with summer flowers, and I could easily imagine living in one of these hillside homes. The heat was intense, so we took our time, stopping in the shade whenever we could and enjoying the views.
Continuing uphill, we reached the Church of Saints Clement of Ohrid and Panteleimon. Perched high above the lake, it is a beautiful example of Ohrid’s rich history. The church we see today is a careful reconstruction of the original 9th-century church founded by St Clement of Ohrid in 893, built on the site of an earlier basilica.
What makes this place even more fascinating is that the church sits within an important archaeological site. Scattered around the grounds are the remains of earlier buildings, including the foundations of ancient basilicas, stone columns and fragments that reveal the layers of history that have existed here for centuries. Walking among the ruins, it’s incredible to think that this spot has been a place of worship, learning and pilgrimage for well over a thousand years.
From there, we followed the steep pathway towards Samuel’s Fortress, paying the small entrance fee to explore inside. Although not much remains within the fortress itself, the enormous stone walls still stand proudly. Climbing the steps to the turrets rewards you with some of the best panoramic views across Ohrid and the lake.
Thankfully, from here it was mostly downhill. We found a path leading through a pine forest before joining a winding trail that descended towards the water. The trees provided welcome shade and offered some relief from the afternoon heat.
I know I keep saying it, but the scenery really was spectacular. From above, the pine forests gave way to dramatic cliffs dropping towards the clear blue waters below, while the path gently zigzagged its way down the hillside. Every so often we stopped to admire the view, and somehow each one seemed better than the last.
Eventually, the path brought us to a small cove where several people were already enjoying a swim. There wasn’t any space to sit, but that didn’t matter—we were here for the water.
We spotted the perfect snapped branch hanging over the lake and used it to hang our bags while we cooled off. Shane joined me this time. Unfortunately, he’d decided to get rid of his swim shoes (bad move!), so he found getting into the water a little more challenging than I had. Still, he managed.
We spent about an hour simply floating around in the cool water, which was exactly what we needed after all the walking and sightseeing.
I announced I was getting out, and Shane said, “I’ll follow in a few minutes.” But just as I was climbing out, he suddenly shot past me swimming front crawl at full speed.
I looked at him thinking, What on earth? Is he trying to impress me or something?
Then, between breaths, he shouted, “It’s a snake!”
I burst out laughing. “It won’t be a snake,” I said. “It’s probably an eel.”
“No,” he insisted. “It was definitely a snake. Its head was above the water, and it was coming towards me!”
Well, at least he didn’t struggle getting out over the slippery stones. He flew out of that water—ha!
Once we were safely back on shore, we looked out across the lake and could actually see the snake swimming around. It really did look like a baby Loch Ness Monster, with just its head poking above the surface.
A quick Google search confirmed that snakes can be found in Lake Ohrid. They enter the water to catch fish, but they’re harmless and generally keep their distance from people.
Shane, however, remained unconvinced.
“Well, I’m telling you, that one did!”
It was hilarious. I honestly don’t think I’ve ever seen him move so fast.
After our unexpected wildlife encounter, we headed back up the pathway and followed the lower coastal trail towards one of Ohrid’s most iconic sights—the Church of St. John at Kaneo.
Perched dramatically on the cliffs above Kaneo Beach, with the lake stretching out behind it, this 700-year-old Orthodox church is one of the images most associated with Ohrid. No visit here would feel complete without seeing it for ourselves.
To reach the church, we had to make our way down a series of steps, but this actually gave us some of the best views, looking down over the red-tiled roof, the beach below and the vast expanse of Lake Ohrid beyond.
After spending time exploring and, of course, taking plenty of photos, we continued down the steps towards the beach and shoreline. From there, we were able to follow the path around the lake and reconnect with the wooden boardwalk.
Finally back on the flat, we made our way towards town, tired but happy after another fantastic day exploring Ohrid.
We were enjoying Ohrid so much that we decided to extend our stay by a few more days. We found an apartment nearby, which gave us the perfect opportunity to slow down, enjoy some quieter days and catch up on our writing.
This was exactly the kind of place where you could happily let the hours drift by. We wandered along the lakeside, stopped for lunch overlooking the water, and returned to the old town time and time again just to soak up the atmosphere.
During one of these visits, we discovered a local restaurant serving traditional food. It was always busy, from lunchtime through to the evening, which quickly made it one of our favourite places to eat. We also stumbled across a bakery selling Trilece cake, and after trying this delicious cake first in Skopje how could we resist. Needless to say, we returned more than once—it was just too good to resist.
Those extra days disappeared far too quickly, and before we knew it, we had reached our final day in Ohrid.
We loved wandering the old town streets, so we decided to take one last explore and make sure there wasn’t anything we’d missed. From Krusevska Republika Square, home to the remarkable 900-year-old plane tree beside the mosque, we looked up and spotted a church high above us with a striking golden roof. Somehow, we hadn’t made it there yet, so we set off to find it.
The climb through the steep cobbled streets was tough in the heat, but we took our time and enjoyed discovering more of the hillside neighbourhoods along the way. Eventually, we reached the Church of St. Bogorodica Kamenska, and just a few minutes further on stood the 300-year-old Clock Tower, a monument dating back to the Ottoman period.
Mission accomplished—we felt we’d finally seen most of Ohrid’s highlights and, as usual, taken far too many photos along the way!
But more than the sights themselves, it was the atmosphere of Ohrid that stayed with us. We loved the slower pace, the ability to wander without a plan, and the feeling that life here moved at just the right speed.
Ohrid had been such a wonderful surprise, it’s somewhere I would happily recommend to anyone visiting North Macedonia, and a place I would love to return to one day.
As I mentioned earlier, Lake Ohrid is shared by both North Macedonia and Albania, so it seemed fitting that our next adventure would take us across the border. There were several routes we could have chosen, each leading us to a different part of Albania.
In the end, we decided to take a cross-border bus straight to the capital, Tirana, and begin our Albanian adventure there before travelling south through the country.
It seemed like as good a plan as any.
So, for now, it was goodbye to Ohrid.
You had been an absolute pleasure.
