Midlifers Go East
Boracay.
During our last week in Taiwan, we checked the weather forecast for Boracay in the Philippines, and to be honest, it looked horrendous—thunderstorms, wind, and rain. Since the trip was just a few days before Christmas, I had booked the flight a couple of months earlier, but we were now seriously contemplating cancelling and heading somewhere with guaranteed sun.
After a lot of thought and consideration, we decided to monitor the forecast for the next few days before making a decision. As it happened, the forecast started to fluctuate, and we understood that tropical weather can be unpredictable—rain doesn’t necessarily mean it will last all day. So, that was that; the decision was made to go, whatever the weather!
We wanted to visit the Philippines at Christmas because they are predominantly Catholic and have a deep love for the holiday—in fact, they love it so much that some start celebrating as early as September. With that in mind, it seemed like the perfect place to be while travelling.
You cannot fly directly to the island of Boracay. The closest airports are on the neighbouring island of Panay, which has two options: Caticlan and Kalibo, with Caticlan being the closest to Boracay.
We flew into Caticlan and would then have to take the short ferry crossing over to the island.
The airport is tiny—hard to believe it’s the bigger of the two! We thought our luck was in when we breezed through to be first at immigration. But our celebration was short-lived as we found ourselves stuck in a cramped area that quickly turned into a full-blown cattle market, all huddled around the one lonely baggage carousel, and our bags were last!
I pre-booked transportation to the island, which included a bus to the port and a boat ride. The bus station was right outside the airport, and although it looked chaotic, it was organised chaos, so we were quickly on our way. At the port, we got off the bus and paid the Boracay tourist tax—a small fee to enter the island. The port was bustling with boats going back and forth. Luckily, the crossing only took 10 minutes, as it was now dark and the rain had made an appearance.
There were several transport options available from the port in Boracay. The small electric tricycles, known as “trikes,” were a popular choice, but we opted for the shuttle buses. Upon boarding, they asked for our hotel name and dropped us directly at the doorstep.
It was early evening, so we wouldn’t be doing much exploring tonight. It was more a case of dropping off our bags and heading straight to the nearest restaurant.
We were staying in a good location just near D’Mall which is a vibrant outdoor shopping complex located in the heart of Station 2. It features a mix of local shops, restaurants, cafes, and boutiques, making it a popular destination for both tourists and locals The areas in Boracay are divided into stations 1,2 &3. Station 2 is probably the busiest.
The choice of restaurants was endless, from local to international choices. We wanted to try the local food and stumbled upon a great Filipino restaurant. After the fried foods of Taiwan, we were craving fresh home-cooked meals with lots of veggies and that’s exactly what we found. The flavours were incredible! I don’t think we spoke the whole meal as we devoured every mouthful. Washed down with a bucket—yes, a bucket— of ice-cold San Miguel, we couldn’t have been happier. Hello Boracay!
Up early the following morning, we were eager to explore. We headed to D’Mall, which was buzzing with activity as shops, cafes, and restaurants opened their doors to eager visitors. The narrow pathways came alive with a mix of locals and tourists browsing for souvenirs, grabbing breakfast, or stocking up on essentials for the day. The mall leads down to the beach, and this would be our first glimpse of the aptly named ‘White Beach’!
OMG, what a beach! We’ve seen many beaches in our time, but this one truly has it all. Turquoise sea, powdery white sand, and a fringe of swaying palm trees—it’s the perfect picture of a tropical paradise!
To top it all off, the Sandy beach path running alongside the palm trees is lined with shops, inviting restaurants and chilled cafes. It had a really lively atmosphere, busy with an energetic vibe! I already know we are going to love it here—what’s not to love!
There was a bit of cloud cover during our first couple of days on the island, and we did see the occasional shower, but it was nothing like the forecast that almost made us cancel. The cloudy moments actually gave us the chance to walk, which we love doing, and explore the island. It was still incredibly hot, so we were sweating buckets, but the brief cloud cover provided a bit of respite from the sun, making the heat a little more bearable.
One of the charming sights on the beach is the intricate sandcastles that local artists build along the shoreline. These sand creations range from simple sculptures to elaborate, multi-tiered castles adorned with shells, flowers, and other beach elements. They rebuild them every day, changing the designs and dates regularly. You can find them at almost every beach on the island, and for a small fee, you can pose with the sandcastles. In the evening, many are adorned with lights, making them even more magical.
Boracay is only a small island measuring just 7 kilometres long by 1 kilometres at its widest. The east coast of the island is the windy side making it popular with kitesurfers especially on Bulabog beach from November to April when the wind is consistent and the weather more predictable.
The island draws many travellers from across the world who are keen to learn how to kitesurf, as well as advance riders looking to progress their skills. Boracay’s near-perfect conditions, together with plenty of kitesurfing schools makes it an ideal place to pick up the sport.
The beach has a more laid-back and adventurous vibe compared to the busier White Beach, with a mix of local charm and modern resorts. A scenic paved path runs the length of the beach, making it perfect for a leisurely stroll while taking in the views also a great place to watch kite surfers in action.
Being a small island, we planned on seeing most of it on foot—you know what we’re like by now! While transport is cheap, we felt we’d miss out on things by taking the easy option. Plus, we like to earn our dinner—and especially those beer buckets—ha!
We arrived just a few days before Christmas, and this was the first time for both of us to be away from home during the festive season, It felt strange to be sunbathing on Christmas Day and swimming in the sea when, normally, we’d be peeling veggies and basting turkey.
Christmas Eve blessed us with perfect weather, making it an ideal day to explore. We decided to walk north to the very end of White Beach. At Station 1, we passed Willy’s Rock, a natural rock formation rising out of the shallow water, with a small grotto at the top dedicated to the Virgin Mary. At the northern tip of the beach, we followed a pathway that winds around the headland, leading us to Diniwid Beach—a stunning cove framed by a hilly outcrop adorned with charming properties, undoubtedly offering breathtaking views. The beach itself was lined with swaying palm trees, adding to the tropical paradise vibe. With a couple of beach bars offering refreshments, it was the perfect spot to soak in Boracay’s natural beauty..
We spent the remainder of the day at this beautiful cove, soaking in its relaxed vibe—it was hard to pack up and leave! With some reluctance, we finally made a move, and our timing turned out to be perfect. In the distance, we heard the sound of drums. As we approached, we discovered it was coming from a large group. We later learned they were from the local Indigenous community on the island, known as the Ati people, sharing their rich cultural traditions through music and dance. It was an incredible and unexpected experience.
It still didn’t feel like Christmas was just a day away. There were signs of the holiday—decorations and Christmas songs—but it wasn’t quite what we’re used to. It’ll be interesting to see what the big day brings—ha!
Ho Ho Ho, Happy Christmas! Let’s see how this pans out. It did feel strange heading to the beach on Christmas morning, but with good weather, that was already a bonus. The place was bustling, and it was heartwarming to have so many locals wishing us a Merry Christmas. Other than that, though, it was just another day at the beach!
We spent half the day at the beach and then decided to start celebrating in the late afternoon—why not! Having a few drinks while watching the sunset sounded perfect. We had a fantastic day that carried on into the night. The only thing we missed was a big Christmas dinner. It was chicken and rice for us, and while it was lovely, it wasn’t turkey with all the trimmings. That said, I’ve already placed an order to have one when we get home—ha!
It was time to explore more of the island and its stunning beaches, so one day we set out for the windy east coast. Following the road north, we were treated to breathtaking views of Panay and the nearby islands. We love immersing ourselves in the island’s authentic charm, and adventures like this give us a glimpse into real life here. Passing through small villages, we couldn’t help but admire how warm and welcoming the locals were, often greeting us with smiles as we walked through areas that felt like extensions of their backyards.
Continuing along the east side, we walked all the way to Ilig-Iligan Beach and Paradise Cove Beach in the Newcoast area. This part of Boracay is much quieter and celebrated for its natural beauty. The beach is surrounded by lush greenery and limestone cliffs, giving it a wild and rugged feel. At the far end of the beach, we discovered Cujo’s Keyhole, also known as Keyhole Rock, a striking natural rock formation. This unique geological feature resembles a keyhole, framing a picturesque view of the sea through its arch. While there are a few large resorts in this area, it feels much more secluded compared to the bustling White Beach on the west coast.
One day, we decided to explore the southeastern coast and made our way to Tambisaan Beach. The walk itself was an experience, as we passed through local villages, small food stores, and glimpses of daily island life—a world apart from the luxury of the big hotels across the island. The locals were incredibly warm and polite, greeting us with smiles and kind words along the way.
By the time we arrived at Tambisaan Beach, we were hot and sweaty, but the refreshing breeze quickly cooled us down, as this side of the island tends to be windier. The beach has a more authentic, local charm, with fishing boats scattered along the shore and noticeably fewer tourists. Unlike the more commercialised areas, Tambisaan feels untouched, with just a handful of small hotels tucked around the bay. The gentle breeze made the effort to get there all the more worthwhile, providing a welcome respite after our walk.
Tambisaan Beach offers a stunning view of Crocodile Island, a small rocky islet resembling a crocodile from a distance. The island is also a popular snorkeling and diving destination, known for its vibrant marine life.
Island-hopping boat tours are a favourite activity on Boracay, and many of the beaches we’ve visited, including this one, are popular stops on these tours. Alternatively, they can be reached by tricycle, multicab, or the Hop-On Hop-Off (HOHO) bus service, making it easy to explore these beautiful coastal areas.
When the sun sets on Boracay, the island truly comes alive, and the energy shifts into high gear. The beachfront transforms into a lively hub of entertainment, with no shortage of options to suit every mood. As you stroll along the bustling beach path, you’ll encounter restaurants hosting live music, while bars crank up the tunes, some keeping the party going until the early hours of the morning.
Filipinos’ love for singing shines through in the vibrant nightlife. Many venues feature karaoke or open mic sessions, where locals and visitors alike take the stage. Expect heartfelt renditions of classic ballads and power anthems—Mariah, Celine, and Adele are perennial favorites. Whether you’re into chilled acoustic sets or high-energy beats, Boracay’s nightlife has something for everyone.
We were absolutely loving it here, and since we were also here to relax, it wasn’t all walking. We made sure to treat ourselves to some low-key days, catching up on a good book, listening to music, and spending hours in the crystal-clear sea—my favorite pastime. Small fish would swim around us, and one day, we were lucky enough to spot a turtle.
There isn’t too much wildlife here being only a small island it’s mainly marine life, however the island is home to several species of fruit bats, including the golden-crowned flying fox, the giant fruit bat, and the small flying fox.
We couldn’t believe our luck one day when one of our walks took us along the west coast, north to Hagdan Beach. It’s a beautiful spot for a quiet day by the sea—a real hidden gem. Getting here on foot isn’t the easiest, as you have to navigate a few steep steps and tricky pathways around the headland. The beach itself is scenic, with large rocks and cliffs framed by lush greenery, so we were more than happy to settle in. While taking a dip in the calm, crystal-clear sea, I happened to spot movement high in the trees on the cliffside. To my surprise, it was a colony of fruit bats. The only problem was that we didn’t have the big camera lens with us, and they were quite high up, so we wouldn’t have been able to get a good close-up picture. I suggested we return the following day and hope that this tree was their home!
I was quite excited the next morning to head back to Hagdan Beach, hoping the fruit bats would still be there.
As I mentioned, it’s a tricky pathway to get there, but it’s definitely worth it. From the very end of White Beach, you need to follow the pathway to Diniwid Beach, and from there, a series of steps lead to what was once the elaborate hotel owned by the world-famous boxer Manny Pacquiao. The hotel now lies in ruins after being ordered to be bulldozed for violating several environmental laws, including encroaching on the beach area, as part of the broader cleanup campaign launched in 2018.
As we reached the beach, I spotted our winged furry friends still in the trees, so we set up for the day and looked forward to taking some photos. Just as we laid down our belongings, a local child said, ‘snake.’ I thought he was joking at first until he pointed it out, and sure enough, there was a snake coiled in the rocks. We quickly moved our things away from the rocks but admired it briefly from a safe distance and managed to get a sneaky picture.
However, being kids, the local children started teasing the snake with a stick until it slithered off the rock and headed into the ocean. Afterward, I researched it and found out that it was a sea krait, a highly venomous snake. The thought that it had gone into the sea where we had planned to swim was a bit off-putting, although I’m sure it would have headed toward the reef.
Snakes aside, we were finally able to photograph the fruit bats, also known as flying foxes. Despite having a larger lens, they were still quite difficult to capture clearly, as they were high up in the trees. However, considering the challenge, I think we did pretty well. I was excited to go through the photos later that night and see how they turned out.
We were looking forward to New Year’s Eve on the island. We’d discovered a lively beach bar called ‘Nigi Nigi Nu Noo’s’ (love the name!), where we’d already had a few great nights filled with good vibes and live music. We were hoping to snag a seat there for the night. When we first arrived, it was full, so we ordered a drink and stood around for a while. As luck would have it, a group sitting at the bar left, so we quickly grabbed their seats—perfect! We had the prime position for the night ahead.
At one point, the local Ati tribe band passed by the bar, adding to the buzz of the evening. Locals were also selling New Year merchandise and festive headwear.
We made new friends and had some great conversations, and when the clock finally struck midnight, everyone rushed out onto the beach to watch an incredible fireworks display. It was absolutely brilliant—there was such a lively atmosphere, and it felt like the perfect way to bid farewell to 2024 with cherished memories and welcome in the new year!
Having explored most of the island on foot, there was one beach we still wanted to visit, located at the northern tip. This beach is called Puka Beach, and we decided to give our legs a rest for this trip by taking the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus, which travels up and down the island to all the major hotspots. Tickets can be bought online, but you’ll need to exchange them for a physical card at the (HOHO) office in Station 2, near Maccy D’s (yes, there’s even a McDonald’s on the island!).
We didn’t get off to a good start with the bus. First, we just missed one, which apparently comes every 10-15 minutes, so we decided to walk a few stops instead of waiting around. The stop we waited at was in full sun, so we were sweating in the sweltering heat while waiting for the next bus. When it finally came, about 20 minutes later, it was full and sailed right past us. Fuming, we decided to continue walking, but the next stop was blocked by parked vehicles, obstructing our view of the road. After about five minutes, we moved on to the next stop, and just as we walked off, another bus flew by—and this time, it was empty! Aaarrgg. We then had to walk up a hill to the next stop, which thankfully was shaded. We only waited about five minutes before another bus arrived. Finally, we were on our way, and at least the bus was air-conditioned. At this rate, we thought we were going to end up walking the whole way—ha!
The bus dropped us just around the corner from the beach which is named after the puka shells that wash up on its shores. Yet again a beautiful beach, lined with lush greenery and rocky outcrops. The clear turquoise waters and fine sand make it perfect for relaxation and enjoying the scenic views. It was a bit choppy the day we visited, so we didn’t swim, but the strong breeze was definitely appreciated.
Along the entire beach, there was a series of ‘Puka’ signs crafted from various beach materials—some made of twigs, shells, and bamboo, each unique in its own way. The sandcastle artists were also out in full force, with numerous intricate sand sculptures scattered across the entire stretch of the beach, adding to the charm.
There are a few café bars dotted along the beach, and where you enter, you’ll find stalls selling souvenirs, along with local vendors offering snacks and fruit shakes. It definitely had a more local vibe and was much less commercialised.
We had a nice day there and even adopted a dog for a few hours. We thought it might follow us, but thankfully, it just went off and found someone else to hang out with once we left.
We’d been on the island for quite a while by now and had no immediate plans to leave. We were settling into island life quite naturally, but we were a little conscious of time, as there was still more we wanted to see in the Philippines.
One day, we struck up a conversation with an expat on the island who told us that extending our visa was quite easy to do, as there’s a local immigration office located in one of the shopping malls.
The office was closed for a few days over the Christmas period, but as soon as it opened, we went in and were able to easily extend our stay for an additional 29 days for around £40. You get a 30-day free visa upon arrival in the Philippines, but with this extra 29 days, we could explore other islands without rushing. It also meant we didn’t have to immediately leave Boracay, so with that in mind, we booked another week—would be rude not to!
We were determined to see every nook and cranny on this island so one day we decided to walk to Punta Bunga beach which is one of Boracay’s more secluded beaches, located on the northwest side of the island. Known for its soft white sand and calm, turquoise waters, it offers a peaceful retreat away from the hustle and bustle of White Beach.
Access to Punta Bunga Beach is somewhat limited, as it’s primarily shared by a few high-end resorts like Shangri-La and Mövenpick. We tried walking to each of the resorts but were stopped at the gates and told there was no access to the beach. Knowing there had to be a way, and not ones to give up easily, we followed a few lanes leading in the direction of the beach, passing through a local village. Eventually, we came across a passageway that looked promising. It led down some steep steps and, hey presto, we found ourselves right on the beach!
It was a beautiful beach—though, let’s be honest, I don’t think there’s a bad beach on Boracay. The Shangri-La accommodations looked incredible, with individual thatched bungalows perched on the hillside.
It’s safe to say that we’ve truly explored every corner of Boracay. We love immersing ourselves in a place, getting to know it inside and out, and leaving no stone unturned. With the time we have left here, we’ve decided to take it easy and revisit our go-to spots.
One of our favourite pastimes is walking the entire 2.5 mile stretch of White Beach, but we prefer to settle down near Station 3, where it’s much quieter, and we often have the beach almost to ourselves. There’s a large, seemingly abandoned hotel nearby, which is a shame as it looks like it was once a grand resort. However, its closure means this section of the beach is even more tranquil, giving us a sense of seclusion.
Relaxing there, surrounded by the swaying palm trees and gazing out at the sparkling ocean, is pure bliss—a perfect reminder of why we love this island so much.
Another favourite of ours is Diniwid Beach. It’s such a beautiful cove with a relaxed vibe and, once again, it’s never too crowded. Deciding which beach to visit each day is such hard work—ha!
Another thing we absolutely love about Boracay is the food. Every meal has been incredible—we haven’t had a single bad experience! The variety of restaurants and cuisines is truly impressive, offering something to satisfy every craving. Many of the big hotels host buffets at reasonable prices, which often get rave reviews, though we didn’t get around to trying them ourselves.
Instead, we discovered a few favourite spots that we couldn’t resist returning to again and again. Just thinking about those meals now takes me straight back to food heaven—an unforgettable part of our time here on the island.
Whilst on the island we were lucky to witness the start of the ‘Ati-Atihan Festival,’ a week-long annual celebration that honors the infant Jesus, Santo Niño, and the culture of the Atis people. The festivities were in full swing on White Beach, but the main festival takes place in the province of Aklan. While Boracay is part of Aklan, the primary celebrations occur on Panay Island in several towns, with the biggest and most vibrant event held in the capital, Kalibo, on the third Sunday of January.
Our introduction to the Philippines has been absolutely fantastic, and I think we couldn’t have chosen a better place to spend Christmas and New Year. Now that we’ve extended our stay, we’re planning to move on to the island of Cebu. It’s just a short one-hour flight on a smaller aircraft, which should be an interesting experience! On Cebu, we’re hoping for the incredible opportunity to swim with whale sharks. But for now, we’re going to savour our final days on our beloved Boracay.
Take a look at the video section to check out our Boracay reels.
Cebu.
After spending almost a month on Boracay, we were ready to move on. One day, during a conversation with a Filipino girl, the topic of swimming with whale sharks in Cebu came up. I had read about it before, but it had slipped my mind. Being reminded of it sparked my curiosity, and I was soon diving into research.
The good news was that we were in an excellent geographic position, as Cebu was quite close and we could take a direct flight from Caticlan in less than an hour—perfect that was the deciding factor.
Shane was quite excited about the flight as we were travelling on a small propeller aircraft. It wasn’t one of those tiny ones but still smaller than we are used to. The flight turned out to be excellent—smooth throughout, with a takeoff and landing that felt much gentler than on larger aircraft.
It ended up taking us longer to get to the hotel by taxi than the flight itself. We landed in the early evening, so I’m not sure if it was rush hour Filipino-style or if it’s always that busy.
We decided to stay near the airport in Mactan for the first two nights and booked a nice resort to unwind and relax. The spot where you can swim with whale sharks in Oslob is a four-hour drive away, so we planned to head there last and see a few sights first.
The resort was enormous but almost deserted. We only saw a handful of people here and there, likely because it was just after Christmas—or maybe it was due to the construction work going on next door, which we hadn’t been aware of. Bang, bang, bang—all day long and late into the night. It didn’t bother us, though. We were quite happy to have the place nearly to ourselves and could block out the noise by listening to music. The resort had four large pools and so many daybeds that we were spoiled for choice. Still, it felt a bit surreal heading to dinner in the massive restaurant and seeing just one other diner—ha!
As we had arrived so late on the first evening, we really only had one full day. We decided to enjoy the surroundings, knowing we had plans next to spend a night in Cebu City to experience its lively atmosphere.
So the following morning we took a taxi into the city. The city was larger than we’d envisioned, it’s a city of contrasts, with both modern developments and areas of poverty existing side by side. Poor communities, often referred to as informal settlements or “slums,” are scattered across the city with overcrowded housing, limited access to basic services such as clean water and sanitation. Despite these challenges, the resilience and sense of community among the residents was evident. Change is on the horizon, with a growing number of high-rise buildings and shopping malls. The city also has a rich historical charm, which was part of the reason we wanted to visit.
We weren’t quite prepared for it to be so busy, but we quickly learned that it was just two days away from the annual Sinulog Festival, celebrated on the third Sunday of January. This is one of the largest and most vibrant festivals in the Philippines, held in honor of the Santo Niño (Child Jesus). As the city prepared for the big event, music blared from hotels, shops, and restaurants, while brightly coloured costumes and headdresses were on sale. Vendors paraded the streets selling balloons, and many streets were being prepared to be pedestrianised for the celebration.
We arrived a little early for check-in, so we left our bags with the hotel and ventured out. Shane needed a haircut, and we quickly stumbled upon a barbershop. While there, the barber advised us to be cautious in crowded places, as it was festival weekend and pickpockets were likely to be around. This unsettled me a little bit since we had most of our valuables with us, having not yet checked in. I guarded my bag carefully until we could safely offload everything and relax.
A little while later, with our valuables offloaded, we were able to explore more freely. One of the first things we noticed was the local buses. Transport is always different wherever we go, with various types of buses and tuk-tuks. Here, they have jeepney’s—colourful and iconic modes of transport in the Philippines. These funky, brightly decorated vehicles are essentially modified Jeeps, with two long bench seats inside running along the sides, allowing passengers to sit facing each other. Many jeepneys are adorned with chrome accents, religious imagery, slogans, or family names, making each one unique.
It was swelteringly hot as we wandered through the fascinating streets. We witnessed the poverty firsthand while walking through the underprivileged parts of town, but the people were incredibly kind. Both children and adults greeted us with warm hellos, and we never once felt threatened.
To experience some culture in the city, we headed to the old Spanish fort—Fort San Pedro. This triangular stone fortress, dating back to 1738, now houses a garden and a museum.
On the way, we passed through a pedestrianised area bustling with activity. Crowds had gathered around the Minor Basilica of the Holy Child of Cebu, a stunning Catholic church that dates back to the 1500s. A large mass appeared to be underway, and it was a special experience to witness the devotion and vibrant atmosphere surrounding this historic site.
When we reached the fort, the park in front was also set up for the festival, with music playing, numerous stalls, and a stage ready for performances. The fort itself was only small so it didn’t take too long to explore, but it was nice nonetheless.
We were only here for one night, so later that evening, we ventured out. It was incredibly busy, with long queues outside restaurants. After walking around the block, we decided to head back to the hotel and dine there, which turned out to be quite good. They also had a small rooftop bar, so we thought a nightcap would be a nice way to end the evening. That was until a lively group of young Filipinos came bounding in. Luckily, they danced into an adjacent room, clearly set up for karaoke, and soon began enthusiastically impersonating their favourite singers. Thankfully, the bartender closed the door—letting them enjoy their fun while we enjoyed the quiet. After all, it was festival weekend!
The next morning, we were heading to Oslob, which was the main reason we had come to Cebu. I had hoped to get a Grab taxi, which were available on the island, but when I tried to book one, I found out they didn’t cover trips to Oslob due to the long distance—it takes about four hours, which makes sense. I had read that there were buses that covered the island, so we weren’t going to be stranded. Instead, we took a taxi to the city’s south bus terminal, and soon we were on our way on an air-conditioned coach for a bargain price of £3.75.
It was a scenic journey as we navigated the coastal road. In parts, the roads weren’t the best, so the coach never really picked up speed. However, it was lovely as we slowly drove along, with the sea often visible on one side and a hilly, lush landscape on the other.
The driver asked us where we wanted to get off when we boarded, and he kindly dropped us off at a convenient spot in Oslob, just a short five-minute walk from our accommodation.
At first sight, Oslob had a nice vibe—it’s a small laid-back place with more of a village feel, featuring shady, tree-lined streets that lead from the main road. It’s not too touristy, as swimming with the whale sharks has only recently put it on the map. However, there are still several accommodation options, mainly small, family-run homestays, like our B&B, which had just a few rooms.
The main road running through town has a selection of shops, convenience stores, and eateries, mostly serving Filipino food. It retains a small-town charm with a slower pace of life, though it has seen a rise in tourism due to the whale shark encounters. As a result, there is now a handful of modern cafes and bistros popping up, offering a few options for western tastes.
A shopping mall has also recently opened. It’s not enormous, but it’s a fair size, housing a large supermarket, ATM, food court, department store, and DIY store. It almost feels out of place in this quiet town; however, the mall is a sign of the town’s growing development due to increased tourism, and I’m sure for the locals, it’s a welcome addition.
The small place we were staying was on a quiet lane that led down to the sea, so we headed in that direction. Right on the seafront was the most beautiful historic church—Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception—and just across from the church were the Cuartel ruins, historical remnants of a Spanish-era military barracks. The Cuartel was built in the 19th century and intended as a barracks for Spanish soldiers stationed in the area. However, it was never fully completed due to ongoing conflicts during that period.
Today, the Cuartel ruins stand as a historical landmark, showcasing the Spanish colonial architecture, with large stone walls and arches still visible.
In front of the ruins is Cuartel Heritage Park, a charming little green space where locals gather to relax and unwind. A row of food carts lined the area, offering a variety of refreshments. The air was filled with music, and as we walked toward the main green, we noticed people dancing. As we got closer, we realised it wasn’t a dance performance but rather an exercise session. The park featured a large screen displaying an exercise class, and many people were actively participating. I absolutely love seeing things like this—everyone was having a great time, and you could really sense the strong community spirit.
We returned later the evening because we wanted to photograph the ruins and church at night, and we were glad we did. We discovered that the park holds movie nights, and on the big screen, The Lion King was playing. Families and children sat in chairs they’d brought or on blankets on the grass. Once again, it was lovely—it felt like such a nice place to be!
Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay out late as we had made arrangements to swim with the whale sharks the following morning, and our pick-up was at 5 a.m. We didn’t get the best sleep either—local dogs seemed to set each other off barking left, right, and centre for most of the night. Around 2 am, the cockerels started Cock-a-doodle-dooing. Jeez! Early risers here—I thought they didn’t start making a racket until dawn!
Luckily, when we arose just after 4 a.m., we didn’t feel too tired—must have been due to the excitement for the morning ahead.
For a fair price, the hotel owner had arranged transport and admission for us to see the whale sharks. He had arranged for a local guy to take us on the 15-20 minute drive to the whale shark center. We hopped in the van but only made it to the end of the street before it broke down with a completely flat engine. To avoid long waiting times at the center, it’s best to get there before 6 a.m., when the queue starts to build, so that was my only concern. Luckily, the driver got on the phone to the hotel owner, who immediately came in his car and took us, so we were only delayed about 10 minutes in the end. I’m sure the hotel owner would have rather been back in bed, but hey ho, these things happen.
When we arrived at the lane that led down to the whale shark center, it was a hive of activity. With the sun not yet up, music was playing, street food vendors were cooking what I imagined would be breakfast for the locals, and souvenir shops lined the street. It felt more like evening than dawn.
At the center, we first made our way to the briefing area, where they explained the do’s and don’ts for our safety and the well-being of the whale sharks. We were then given a number, and you basically have to wait your turn. There was a seating area under a large gazebo where we managed to grab a seat, so we were quite happy waiting. In fact, we preferred the wait as the sun wasn’t quite up yet, so we figured the lighting wouldn’t have been as good. We happily watched on for a couple of hours until our number was called around 8 a.m., at which point we had to proceed to the area with life jackets and snorkels.
With life jackets on we made our way to the beach as they organised groups of 6 to get onto the boats. I must admit I was a little anxious as the sea was really choppy, we’ve been in the sea a few times like this and with a life jacket I’ve no problem, my worry is the proximity to other boats. The boats they use are typically small, traditional outrigger boats, known locally as banca. These boats are narrow, wooden, and have outriggers on either side for stability in the water.
So off we bobbed over the large waves to the whale shark viewing area. It wasn’t quite as bad as I first thought as the boats tie themselves to each other. There were four rowers on the boat so they helped guide us into the water where we could experience the whale sharks close up. Before exiting the boat we got our first glimpse of these magnificent creatures swimming around.
It’s a bit controversial, as the local fishermen began feeding the whale sharks a few years ago, which now causes them to return each morning for tourists to see. This practice disrupts their natural feeding and migratory patterns, as they become reliant on humans for food and may stay in the area rather than following their natural routes.
However, there are arguments in defense of this activity, including the economic benefits to the local community, increased awareness and education, plus a deeper appreciation for marine life and the need for conservation efforts. Regulations are in place to minimise stress to the whale sharks, such as maintaining a safe distance and ensuring visitors do not touch them.
Once in the water, I decided to hold onto the outrigger and place my head in the water. That way, I could maintain a safe distance while still observing them. The rest of the people on the boat followed suit. Shane, on the other hand, removed his life jacket—being a confident swimmer—and got right in there, keeping his distance, of course. With the GoPro in hand, he was able to dive down and capture some incredible footage of these gentle giants.
It wasn’t that easy, though; maintaining distance while filming in the choppy sea was challenging. At one point, he avoided one of them, only to spot another approaching, darting around to stay clear. It was quite a feat given the conditions. Meanwhile, I clung to the boat for dear life as the waves lifted and dropped me with its motion. It turned out to be quite a workout—but a fun one at that!
hey really were amazing to see up so close. Normally you only get to see creature like this on TV documentaries. With their striking patterns, white spots and stripes set against a dark grey background, each unique just like human fingerprints.
I also liked seeing all the fish that attach themselves to the whale shark, I read that these are called Remoras and apparently have a suction-like organ on their heads, which allows them to attach themselves to the whale shark’s body. They hitch a ride to conserve energy while feeding on scraps of food from the whale shark’s meals or parasites from its skin.
The other fish that swim alongside the whale shark rather than attaching themselves are Pilot fish They feed on plankton and leftover food from the whale shark’s meals.
These small fish are a great example of how marine life is interconnected, with even the largest creatures supporting smaller ones in their ecosystem.
What an amazing morning we had! We were so glad we made the detour to Cebu for this experience—it’s something we will always remember. Plus, being up so early meant it was still only the time we’d normally be heading out, so we decided to do one more thing we love: visit the nearby monkey sanctuary.
The Oslob Monkey Sanctuary is surrounded by lush greenery, with a small walking trail that allows you to explore and enjoy the serene environment. The sanctuary is home to a variety of wild macaque monkeys. While they are free to roam the forest, they return to the sanctuary each morning to be fed, making it somewhat similar to the whale sharks in Oslob. The sanctuary is only open until 12 p.m., as the monkeys return to the forest afterward, so you wouldn’t see them later in the day.
If you’ve followed our previous adventures, you’ll know how much we absolutely love monkeys. I love all creatures, but monkeys are just so funny to observe—probably because they’re so much like us! We could watch and photograph them all day. We always end up with far too many photos, but we just can’t help ourselves.
The monkeys here were friendly, but you still shouldn’t give them prolonged eye contact—just a glance is enough to avoid making them feel threatened. There are around 100 monkeys in the group that lives here many with newborns.
The majority had already returned to the forest after being fed, but a few were still playing and enjoying the water bath. They just make me smile—their mannerisms, their cheekiness! They even had some old car mirrors dangling from bamboo poles, and watching them look at their reflections was just brilliant!
All in all, we’d had an amazing day and still had the afternoon to relax. As mentioned, Oslob is on the rise, but at the moment, it’s still very laid back. There aren’t any bars—there I go again, sounding like we’re dependent on alcohol! I’m not saying you can’t get a drink; beers and other beverages are available in the restaurants. I just mean there didn’t seem to be somewhere you can simply sit and enjoy a cold beer if the need arises.
As it happened we were quite tired after such an early start, especially being kept awake by the dogs and cockerels, so we opted for a low-key night as the next morning, it was time for us to leave Cebu.
Our next stop in the Philippines is Panglao Island in Bohol, just a short journey away. In fact, it’s so close that we can catch a boat right from the beach near the old church and ruins, reaching Panglao in just 90 minutes. Bohol is a destination we’ve been eagerly anticipating, as it’s home to the fascinating tarsiers—the world’s smallest primate. Our passion for wildlife has been a driving force behind our travels, and the chance to see these tiny, wide-eyed creatures in their natural habitat is something we’re incredibly excited about.
Bohol.
We like it when we don’t have to lug our bags very far, so today was a good moving day since the boat departure point was literally just a 5 minute walk—if that—from our guesthouse.
Our boat confirmation advised us to arrive an hour early, which we did. We could see that the boat was already there, anchored just a few hundred yards from shore. It couldn’t get any closer due to the shallow water, so we had to wade through the water to board a small boat that would then take us to the main boat.
The boat was almost full, so I thought we might leave a little earlier. Unfortunately, that wasn’t the case—they must have been waiting for a few more passengers before departing at the scheduled time.
The crossing wasn’t too bad. It took an hour longer than estimated, most likely because the sea was a little choppy, but it was nothing like the horrendous boat ride in the Gili Islands. So, I was quite happy for the boat to bob along at its own pace.
One thing we also noticed was that we were most definitely back on the backpacker trail. It had been ages since we’d seen so many Western faces. Apart from Boracay, over the last few months, we had definitely been in the minority. We got chatting to a nice Scottish couple who were heading off to start a new life in Perth.
The biggest challenge came when we finally arrived. It was the same scenario—we had to transfer onto a smaller boat, which would take us to a floating jetty which led onto the beach.
The first hurdle was that the sea had become really choppy, so we had to wait until both boats were level before hopping from one to the other. Two crew members stood on either side, taking our hands to guide us when it was safe.
We made it safely onto the small boat, which then pulled up alongside the floating pier. With the sea still choppy, the pier was bobbing up and down. A few of us jumped onto it, and one of the crew was not impressed as the whole thing wobbled from side to side. We had to stand in the middle to balance and stop it from toppling before making our way to the beach. Well, that was an adventure! I was glad to be on dry land—ha!
We then had to wait on the beach while the small boat returned to collect the luggage. There was no rush—where we were staying was only a short taxi ride away, and we were happy to carry on chatting with our new friends.
We were staying on Alona beach on Panglao island which is part of Bohol but connected by a bridge to the mainland. It’s a popular destination for beach lovers, divers, and those looking for a tropical escape. Alona is the most famous beach on the island, lined with resorts, restaurants, and bars.
We couldn’t wait to drop our bags and head out to explore. Our accommodation was right in the heart of town, just a short distance from the beach. Unfortunately, a couple of large resorts built side by side blocked direct beach access, meaning we had to walk the long way around. Good thing we like getting our steps in!
We liked the look of the resort immediately—it had a full-on holiday vibe. It was bustling with a mix of nationalities, and there was no shortage of restaurants, bars, and shops.
There was only one road leading down to the beach, a lively street that you could easily imagine coming to life once night fell.
Running alongside the beach was a sandy pathway lined with more bars, restaurants, and shops, many of which had tables and chairs spilling across the pathway and onto the beach, ideal to watch the sunset and evening dining.
We settled into one beach bar, and after a few drinks, who do we bump into—the Scottish couple from the boat! So, like you do, one drink led to another, the conversation flowed, and we had a great night!
The following day, we just wanted to explore the resort more and enjoy a beach day. Alona Beach has powdery white sand that gently slopes into crystal-clear turquoise waters, perfect for swimming and sunbathing. The shoreline is lined with palm trees, providing shade and giving that tropical vibe.
Many people were snorkeling just off the beach, where you could spot a variety of fish, including angel fish and clown fish. However, the best marine life is usually seen on one of the boat trips available. What we did see in the shallower waters, though, were lots of starfish.
There are no sunbeds available for hire along the beach, so you’ll need to settle directly on the sand—we’ve found this all over the Philippines. Fortunately, the sand being soft and powdery, makes it a surprisingly comfortable spot to relax. While I’d always prefer a sunbed and parasol, sometimes you just have to make do with what’s available.
We really enjoyed our beach day—it’s not often we get the chance to simply relax, swim, and unwind.
Later that evening, we headed back down to the beach to watch the sunset. The sunsets here certainly don’t disappoint. In a place like this, it’s a daily ritual that always feels quite spiritual.
One bar had rows of bean bags set out, which always looked inviting, and many people were sitting along the low wall that runs along the back of the beach, quietly admiring the ever-changing colours of the sky as the sun dipped below the horizon.
As the final colours of the sunset faded, we headed back toward the beach bar from the previous evening—and who did we bump into? Our Scottish friends—ha!
They introduced us to a lovely Australian lady who was on holiday with her grandson, and before we knew it, we’d joined them for a drink. Naturally, one drink turned into another (as it always does), and after bidding farewell to our new Aussie friend, the four of us set off in search of “one for the road” at another bar.
That’s when things escalated. My new friend decided we absolutely had to join the talented Filipino duo on stage—next thing I knew, we were singing, dancing, and, to top it off, she was even showing off her gymnastics skills. Too funny! The kind of night you don’t plan but always end up remembering.
Bohol has so much to offer, and one of the main reasons we wanted to visit was to see the Chocolate Hills and the Tarsier Sanctuary. After doing some research, I discovered that we could join a Bohol countryside tour that included both, along with other sights—perfect!
After the previous evening’s shenanigans, we decided to give ourselves another laid-back beach day before booking the tour for the following day. That evening, we met up with our new friends, including the Australian lady and her grandson, for dinner. We decided to try an Indian restaurant—you know how much we love Indian food, so we had high hopes.
It did not disappoint! The food was delicious, finally giving us the Indian fix we’d been craving for a while. We left completely satisfied and agreed we’d definitely return. We also had leftovers packed up since we were the only ones with a fridge and microwave, so that took care of supper for the following evening.
We awoke the next day, excited for the tour—especially to see the tarsiers. All the sights we were visiting were on the main island. Our first stop, the Chocolate Hills, was probably the furthest drive, taking around two hours.
The chocolate hills are a unique geological formation consisting of at least 1,260 to over 1,700 cone-shaped hills spread across more than 50 square kilometre. These symmetrical hills are covered in grass, which turns chocolate brown during the dry season, giving them their name.
The best view of the hills can be seen at the complex in Carmen which was where the tour took us. You can climb the 214 steps to the viewing platform which offers a panoramic view of this stunning landscape. As the dry season had only just started they weren’t quite as brown as they will become in the next month or so, but still breath-taking.
Next stop was the Tarsier sanctuary. The Tarsier is one of the world’s smallest primates known for their enormous eyes, long fingers, and incredible leaping abilities. They are primarily found in Southeast Asia, including Borneo, Sumatra as well as the Philippines.
Their most distinctive feature is their large, round eyes, which are adapted for night vision. Each eye is about the same size as their brain, giving them excellent depth perception to hunt insects and small prey in the dark. They also have long hind legs and elongated ankle bones (tarsals), which allow them to leap great distances between trees—sometimes over 40 times their body length!
Tarsiers are among the few entirely carnivorous primates, feeding on insects, lizards, and even small birds. Unlike most primates, they cannot move their eyes within their sockets, so they compensate by being able to rotate their heads almost 180 degrees in either direction, much like an owl.
They are shy, solitary, or live in small family groups, and they communicate using high-pitched vocalisations and ultrasonic sounds that are often beyond human hearing. Due to habitat destruction and the pet trade, many tarsier species are considered vulnerable or endangered. The sanctuary, located in Corella, is run by the Philippine Tarsier Foundation and is dedicated to the conservation and protection of these tiny, nocturnal creatures.
At the sanctuary they have a designated trail where tarsiers rest in their natural habitat. Since they are highly sensitive to stress, visitors must keep quiet, avoid flash photography, and not touch them.
Looking out for them on the trail was difficult at first since they are so tiny, but then we noticed a group up ahead that had stopped—we realised they must have spotted one.
You don’t realise just how small they are; they would fit comfortably in the palm of your hand. Once we knew where to look, we saw quite a few, as they seem to favour the shade under the large leaves of a particular plant. Since they are nocturnal, most were snoozing, though a few had their eyes open. They remind me of Furbies, the toy from the ’90s—ha!
Next, we headed for lunch, which was served aboard a river cruise down the Loboc River. The river cruises here are clearly a popular experience as we had to wait our turn to board, but the process was well-organised, with staff efficiently directing guests to their designated boats.
The buffet meal featured a variety of local Filipino dishes, and we were pleasantly surprised by both the quality and selection. Once everyone had settled in, the boat set off down the river, allowing us to enjoy the tranquil surroundings while dining.
I hadn’t expected the experience to be quite so entertaining—there was a live singer on board belting out cheesy tunes as usual, but they created a lively atmosphere. One of the highlights was a stop at a floating bamboo platform, where a local community performed traditional Filipino songs and dances, such as the tinikling (a dance involving bamboo poles).
The scenery along the river was stunning, surrounded by dense tropical forests and palm trees along the riverbanks. We cruised all the way to a small waterfall before turning back. It was amusing to pass by other boats along the way—some were calm and relaxed, while others were full of energy, singing and dancing.
In the afternoon, the tour took us through a mahogany forest before visiting the Baclayon Church, officially known as La Purisima Conception de la Virgen Maria Paris Church. One of the oldest churches in the Philippines, it was originally built in 1596 by Spanish missionaries and remains a prime example of Spanish colonial architecture.
We had a fantastic day—the tour exceeded our expectations, offering great value for money. Most of all, we were thrilled to see the adorable Tarsiers.
There are a couple more beaches along the coast from Alona Beach, so one day, we took a Tuk Tuk to Dumaluan Beach for a change of scenery.
The Tuk Tuk driver dropped us off outside a private resort, which seemed to be the only access point to the beach. A security guard stood at the gate, so we asked if we could enter just to reach the shore. He said we could—but there was a small fee for the privilege. We had no choice, as the only alternative was walking a couple of miles to another access point. It’s crazy how limited beach access can be in some places—we’ve noticed this a few times now.
After paying the fee, we made our way to the beach, which had fine, powdery sand and shallow waters—perfect for swimming. It was much quieter than Alona Beach, with just a few resorts dotted along the bay. We walked the entire stretch of the shore before spending hours simply relaxing in the sea. It was a peaceful and enjoyable day.
There are plenty of other tours and boat trips to do in Bohol, including swimming with whale sharks, just as we did in Cebu. However, we were happy with the tour we chose, especially since we’ll be doing lots of boat trips on the next island we’re visiting.
For our last few days, we were more than happy to simply relax on the beach during the day and meet up with our friends in the evenings—we got on so well. We had a few more crazy, unforgettable nights, making the time even more memorable.
It was bittersweet when we finally parted ways, but they were off to start an exciting new life in Australia, so we wished them nothing but the best and promised to keep in touch.
That brought our fun times in Bohol to an end. It was another Filipino island that left us impressed. Next, we head to Palawan, an island we’re especially excited about. Palawan is often considered the top spot among the best islands to visit in the Philippines and is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful islands in the world, famous for its stunning beaches, limestone cliffs, and crystal-clear waters.
Palawan.
Puerto Princesa.
There weren’t any direct flights from Bohol to Palawan; most had one stop via Manila. They weren’t the best options either—some had long layovers, while others left very little time for the connection. We decided to go for the shorter wait and hope for the best. Fortunately, both flights were with the same airline, which helped since they transferred our luggage, eliminating the need to re-check in. Still, it was going to be tight.
At the check-in desk, the lady said she would move our seats closer to the front of the aircraft so we could disembark quickly. She also gave me a sticker and said, “Wear this when you exit the plane; ground staff will be on hand to escort you to your next gate.” Then she added, “If you miss the flight, don’t worry—we’ll get you on the next one.” However, that flight wasn’t until 5 a.m., 10 hours later—the last thing we wanted was to wait in an airport overnight.
As we waited for the first flight, a message came over the tannoy announcing that our plane had only just left Manila and would be arriving 30 minutes later than expected. Oh no—there was the first delay!
When the plane finally arrived, it was a quick turnaround, and we boarded swiftly. The tickets stated a flight time of 1 hour and 30 minutes, but the pilot announced an estimated flight time of 1 hour and 10 minutes, so we were hoping to make up some time.
However, just as we were nearing Manila, we ended up circling twice, clearly waiting for air traffic clearance to land. By this point, boarding for our connecting flight was about to close. I sighed and said, “Looks like we’re sleeping in the airport tonight—aargh!”
It was quite funny when the plane came to a standstill—several passengers, mostly seated toward the front, stood up eagerly to disembark, all wearing stickers like us. As soon as the doors opened, we bolted, just in case there was a chance we’d make it.
We sprinted up the jet bridge, where a Philippine Airlines ground staff member was waiting at the gate, holding a card with our flight number. She told us to follow her and then asked us to wait in an area where they were gathering other passengers. At this point, we still didn’t know whether we had missed our connection or not but it was looking promising that there was still a chance.
Once we were grouped together—about 12 of us—we followed her swiftly. Manila Airport is enormous, so it took quite a while to reach our connecting gate, and we also had to go through security.
Thankfully, we all made it to the gate, and as luck would have it, our connecting flight had also been delayed. How lucky was that? We only had to wait five minutes before boarding opened. We were so relieved that we started high-fiving our fellow passengers!
We actually arrived at Puerto Princesa Airport ahead of schedule, as the connecting flight was also shorter than estimated. It was around 9 p.m. when we landed, and thankfully, our hotel was close to the airport. We quickly picked up a tuk-tuk, checked in at the hotel, and still had time to explore the town before the day was over. At least we had a comfy bed to sleep in—it could have easily been a departure lounge at Manila Airport. Phew!
Puerto Princesa is the capital city of Palawan. It’s known as the gateway to many stunning destinations, including the famous Underground River (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Honda Bay, and island-hopping spots like Cowrie Island and Luli Island.
We were only here for a few days before moving on to explore more of the island. On our first day, we were more than happy to wander around the city. It’s a very walkable place, so we decided to just see where our feet would take us.
The city is more developed than other parts of Palawan, with restaurants, markets, and nightlife, yet it retains a relaxed island feel. The people are really friendly which we have found throughout the Philippines, always saying hello or interested in a quick chat.
Our walk led us to the Immaculate Conception Cathedral, the main Catholic church in Puerto Princesa. Built in 1872 by Spanish missionaries, it features neo-Gothic architecture with pointed arches.
Right next to it is Plaza Cuartel, a historical site with ruins from World War II that tells the story of the Palawan Massacre. Unfortunately, we were unable to go inside as it was temporarily closed.
We continued to Baywalk park, which is a long stretch of promenade along the water with food stalls, seafood restaurants, and great for sunset views.
The city also has a few small green spaces and little parks, which are nice for sitting and taking some shade. You probably only need a couple of days here, which seems to be typical for most visitors.
When the sun goes down, there’s no shortage of restaurants offering a mix of Filipino and Western food, along with the usual fast food joints. There are also a few music bars that seem to be lively.
Whilst here, we wanted to do one of the tours. Popular options from the city include a trip to the Underground River, often considered one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature due to its stunning limestone cave system and subterranean river. Another popular excursion is island hopping around Honda Bay.
We decided on the latter, as we had already visited a similar underground river in Vietnam.
The following day, we were picked up early and headed to the pier at Honda Bay, where we would take the boat. Our group was small—only 10 people—which was nice.
The first stop in the bay was a floating pier, where there was a reef that should have been good for snorkelling. Unfortunately, the sea at this spot wasn’t very clear, making visibility poor. I’m sure for whatever reason we was just unlucky on this day. You really had to look hard to see any fish, which was a bit disappointing.
The next stop was Luli Island, a sandbar that appears and disappears with the tide.
This was where we would have lunch, so while our guide prepared the food in the small huts that lined the centre of the island, we were free to swim and explore the tiny sandbank.
The sea was nice, and we actually saw more fish here than we did at the snorkelling spot, schools of them were swimming all around us.
Lunch was absolutely delicious, and our guide had taken great care in preparing it and the presentation was beautiful. The group was a nice mix of people, each with their own stories. We struck up a conversation with a young Filipino man, who was on holiday with his mother. She had recently retired after working for 44 years with Philippine Airlines, which was impressive.
There was also a Filipino family, and the mother was incredibly kind, taking care of everyone at lunch and clearing up afterward. She was like a “mother hen” in the best way, ensuring we were all well-fed and comfortable. Finally, there was a quiet but polite young French couple, who didn’t say much due to the language barrier, but was always smiling and friendly.
After lunch, we headed to our last stop, Cowrie Island, and it was by far the best. This small island is a picture-perfect tropical paradise, with soft, powdery white sand, crystal-clear waters, and lush palm trees. It felt like something straight out of a postcard. We spent the afternoon swimming, relaxing, and soaking in the beautiful surroundings. If you wanted a snack or a cold drink, there was a restaurant on the island offering refreshments and you could literally walk from one from side of the island to the other in two minutes.
We spent ages in the sea—our favourite pastime—and again we got chatting with some lovely people. One was with a group of Filipino siblings who now call Toronto, Canada home. They were on a cruise around Asia and had chosen this excursion as one of their day trips.
It was a lovely day, and it also marked our one-year travel anniversary. Although it’s a milestone, it’s certainly not the end. We feel so privileged—after talking about this journey for many years—to have finally made it happen and to have met so many wonderful people along the way. It has meant so much to us and humbled us in many ways.
Just on this day trip alone, we met a variety of people, each of us interested in each other’s stories. It was the perfect place to reflect on our incredible journey so far. Relaxing on that beautiful island made us feel truly blessed.
To continue our celebrations, we headed out for dinner at a beautiful restaurant that evening. On the way, we passed a perfume shop that reminded us of an old curiosity shop, with bottles of oils lining the shelves. The shop owner was so passionate about fragrance that as we sampled so many scents, we eventually became nose-blind. We treated ourselves to a couple of bottles as a treat—even though they were ridiculously cheap—and felt quite happy with our find. It was a great day trip with a delicious dinner, and we’d be smelling great too—ha!
So that brought our time in Puerto Princesa to an end. Tomorrow, we would be heading to Port Barton—a place we had only discovered through the recommendation of a fellow traveller. It sounded right up our street, with its beautiful beaches and laid-back town.
Port Barton.
The road trip to Port Barton from Puerto Princesa was great. As soon as you leave the city, you see the island for what it really is—lush and mountainous, with dense tropical forest. The countryside is beautiful. The roads were quite good; it looks like they have made improvements in recent years, with many new roads. As the road twisted and turned, we were treated to lovely views of farmland, laid-back villages, and occasional glimpses of the ocean as it weaved around the mountains.
The journey took around three and a half hours, and we stopped once to get refreshments, but it didn’t feel that long as we were enjoying the views.
The minibus dropped us right in the centre of town. From the map, I could see our accommodation was only a five-minute walk away. Port Barton isn’t a big place—it definitely has more of a village vibe.
It was just after midday when we arrived, but our accommodation was ready, which was lucky. Although places will always look after your bags, it’s just nice when you can check in straight away and get settled immediately. It feels like you don’t waste any of the day.
So without further ado, we headed out, eager to explore. The beach was only a few minutes away, so we went in that direction first. We were vibing with the place immediately—definitely our kind of spot. It had a tropical feel—no big concrete hotels, just little homestays and small resorts with bamboo bungalows. There was no shortage of restaurants, and even those were tastefully designed with thatched roofs.
When we arrived at the beach, we were more than pleased. We knew there were nice beaches in the area that we would visit, but after reading a little about the town beforehand, no one seemed to give a shoutout to how beautiful the town beach was. I’d be more than happy if this were the only beach—it’s a beautiful stretch of sand lined with palm trees, small resorts, and beachfront restaurants, with a backdrop of palm-covered hills encasing the bay.
As we walked along the stretch of sand, the beach bars looked so inviting, playing chilled tunes, many with beanbags on the sand. The place was busy, with people enjoying the relaxation of this beautiful spot. We decided to stop—it would be rude not to—and have a spot of lunch, as we had just realised how hungry we were, and this place looked perfect.
It was nice to see many Western faces. The place was packed with a mix of ages, though the majority were young backpackers. However, we didn’t feel out of place—we certainly weren’t the oldest travellers in town.
It was a great place to people-watch and relax for a while before taking a dip in the inviting ocean.
Later that evening, we returned to the beach to check out the vibe at night. It didn’t disappoint—chilled music was replaced by live performances at many of the beach bars, adding to the ambiance as people drank and dined on the sand. One bar—a reggae bar—had a more uptempo feel, so we thought we’d have a nightcap. We got chatting with a few people—good conversation, relaxed vibes—a perfect end to a wonderful day.
Up bright and early the following morning, we planned to walk to Coconut Beach. You don’t have to walk—you can take one of the many tuk-tuks from town or go by boat from the town beach. Boats travel back and forth between Coconut Beach and White Beach, leaving when they are full.
As you probably know, we like to walk. We’d been told it takes around an hour, which we were more than happy to do.
It was a straightforward route—we just had to follow the road directly outside of our hotel, which apparently led all the way to the beach. As we passed through town, we saw lots of quaint accommodations, hostels, quirky cafes, and a few modern bistro’s.
On the edge of town, the road led up a steep hill—here we go, this was the first ‘heart-rate hill,’ as I call them. Always up for the challenge, we soldiered on to the top before taking a break and soaking in the breathtaking scenery that began to unfold with our ascent.
The road continued to rise and fall for the next mile, so we had a couple more ‘heart-rate hills’ to contend with—we were certainly getting a workout, that’s for sure! Luckily, we were prepared, carrying three bottles of water, and the first one was guzzled around the halfway mark. We had also purchased a bunch of bananas in town, which would fuel us the rest of the way.
Speaking of bananas, we passed so many banana trees on the walk—it was a tropical mix of banana and coconut palms lining the roadside.
We reached the top of one particularly steep hill, where the good road ended and turned into a bumpy dirt track. Tuk-tuks and scooters passed us constantly, all of us heading to the beach.
We were actually glad to be on foot. I wouldn’t have fancied being in a tuk-tuk up and down those steep, bumpy tracks, nor would I have wanted to be on a scooter—no way, José! Our legs would do the job just fine—and much more safely!
We were really enjoying the walk, even if we were drenched in sweat, we would at least welcome the swim when we reached the beach.
When the beach finally came into view, we could see its pure beauty. Coconut Beach is the first beach you arrive at, while White Beach is further along the same road. To enter, you have to pay a small environmental fee.
The first thing you notice is the sheer number of coconut palms—hence the name! It’s like a forest, with hundreds of them lining the area beyond the beach. On the beach itself, there were a few hammocks and rustic seating areas made from fallen trees. There was also a small place where you could buy drinks and snacks.
Other than that, the beach was completely natural—no buildings or permanent structures apart from a little shack that also housed pigs and chickens. Just beach and forest.
We ended up spending quite a bit of time here, soaking up the laid-back vibes. A refreshing swim was definitely needed, though the sea was a bit rocky—you had to find a clear patch, but once you did, it was perfect. Meanwhile, Shane was in his element, camera in hand, snapping photos and—because why not?—chasing pigs around like some kind of tropical wildlife photographer gone rogue. Ha!
It was still only early afternoon, so we decided to continue to White Beach. I’d read that if the tide was out, you could reach it by walking around the headland instead of heading back along the road. I’d been watching people come and go in that direction, so we decided to check it out. If the route looked too tricky, we could always turn back and take the road instead.
As it happened, it wasn’t too bad. We just had to go slow and be careful, as there were a few rocky outcrops to climb over and one section where we had to wade through the sea. Luckily, the tide wasn’t too high, and with other people making their way in both directions, we figured it was doable—so we carried on.
White Beach is another beautiful spot, once again fringed with dense coconut palms. Between the two, White Beach seems to be the favourite, judging by the number of people here. To be honest, I preferred Coconut Beach—but when I say that, I’m choosing between two incredible natural beaches. Of course, both are astounding—it’s just a matter of personal preference if you had to pick one!
We spent a little time here, admiring the beauty and taking photos, but unfortunately, it clouded over. So, we decided to head back—plus, we figured we’d walk back and earn our dinner. As we left, many people were arriving, likely to catch the sunset.
To save time, we chose to walk back around the headland since the tide seemed to be at the same level.
Walking back didn’t seem too bad—I’m not sure if it was because we knew when to expect the hills or because the sun wasn’t as intense with the cloud cover.
When we reached the top of the hill, almost back in town, we spotted a hostel and restaurant that looked like it might have amazing views of the bay. Ready for a drink, I suggested we stop. And we were so glad we did—this place had the most incredible deck overlooking the surrounding countryside and the bay.
We loved our day! We love a good walk, and a walk taking us to two amazing beaches and lush countryside definitely gets the thumbs up.
Back in town, we were ravenous and exhausted. We ended up at a busy burger joint which, although not the healthiest choice, was absolutely worth it. The burger was delicious and enormous—no wonder the place was packed.
After surviving on just bananas all day, it definitely hit the spot. And after that? We were fit for nothing but bed—ha!
The next day, we decided to walk in the opposite direction to Pamuayan Beach. It looked like another substantial walk, so we set off with water and more bananas. Bring it on—we were in walking mode!
The route took us along the main road, which was also newly built, so at least it had a good surface for walking. Once again, we had a couple of ‘heart-rate hills’—always good for getting the blood pumping!
We took a break in a shaded spot at the top of one hill and refuelled on bananas. We had to laugh because we were right across from a hut house blasting 60s music. Filipinos love their music, so we often passed houses with tunes blaring at full volume—not that I’m complaining! I was more than happy listening to a bit of George Baker’s Una Paloma Blanca and Tom Jones’ You’re My World!
A little further ahead, we came across a wooden signpost saying ‘Beach.’ However, according to my map, we still had to continue a bit further along the road. Shane suggested it might be a shortcut, so we decided to check it out.
It was definitely a path, though slightly overgrown at the sides. As we stood there debating, a local man came up the trail carrying bamboo, so we asked him if the path was okay. He nodded in confirmation. Shane then asked if there were any snakes, to which the man confidently replied, ‘No.’
Well, we had barely taken a few steps when—what did Shane spot? A snake! That was it—I did the fastest U-turn you’ve ever seen and was back on the main road in seconds—ha! No way were we going that way!
A little further ahead, the new road came to an end, continuing as a bumpy, dusty track. Checking my map, I realised we had veered off course and were no longer heading toward the beach. We had noticed a lane a little earlier, but we hadn’t thought it was the right one.
What we did realise, however, was that the path we were now on led to a popular waterfall—Pamuayan Falls. With lots of tourists on scooters passing by, we figured that since we were already almost there, we might as well check it out!
You had to give a small donation at the entrance and log your name. The trek to the falls then took us through a beautiful jungle trail, with nothing but the sounds of birds, and the occasional rustle of… hopefully just lizards. After about 20 minutes, we arrived at the falls, and it was absolutely stunning. A tall cascade of water tumbled down into a natural pool, completely surrounded by lush greenery.
We wasted no time jumping in—the water was cold but incredibly refreshing after our long walk. Shane, of course, was busy trying to get a waterfall shot, while I just floated there, enjoying the moment. A few other travellers were also there, some sitting on the rocks, others braving the small but powerful waterfall for a natural shower.
We could have stayed there for hours, but we still intended to see the beach, so we headed back and decided to follow the lane we should have taken earlier.
This lane did indeed lead us toward the beach, passing through a local village along the way. Pamuayan Beach is not a touristy spot—another beautiful, unspoiled stretch of sand. We had to ask a local how to actually get onto the beach, as we came across a stream and didn’t want to trespass on anyone’s private property. The guy pointed us in the direction of a rickety wooden bridge—crossing it was part of the adventure!
Across the bridge, we arrived at a small beach restaurant with just a couple of tables. We got chatting with a British guy who told us it was the only restaurant along the beach and highly recommended the food—perfect! After our unexpectedly extended walk, we’d certainly worked up an appetite, so we took the opportunity to relax and enjoy a meal in this beautiful spot.
It didn’t disappoint—we were glad we’d taken his recommendation. After our satisfying lunch, we headed down the beach for a swim. The sea here was really shallow, with a sandbank that we saw people wading to. There were only a few tourists enjoying the peace and quiet, making it feel very different from White Beach.
One thing we did notice, though, was the impact of rising tides and beach erosion. Many palm trees had succumbed to the ocean and fallen. It’s such a shame to see—we’ve witnessed it in so many places.
By late afternoon, we figured we’d better get a move on and head back. What a great walk it had been! By the time we reached Port Barton, we’d clocked 12 miles—one helluva trek.
The sun was just setting, and the beach bars were starting to fill up as people gathered to witness the spectacle. Since we’d already eaten, there was no rush to head back to our room, so we plonked ourselves down on one of the chilled beach chairs and decided to watch the sunset too—would’ve been rude not to!
Port Barton is also known for its island-hopping boat tours, which we’d hoped to do. However, since we think we’ll be returning before leaving Palawan, we’ve decided to skip it for now. Our next stop, El Nido, is all about boat trips, so we know we’ll be doing a few there.
Since we were still in walking mode and on a roll, we decided to spend our last day repeating our first walk—but this time, walking all the way to White Beach first along the road and returning via Coconut Beach. And that’s exactly what we did, enjoying it just as much as the first time. We even came across a group of monkeys! Unfortunately, they were high up in the trees, so we weren’t able to photograph them.
What a great time we’d had here! We absolutely loved this place and were so glad we took the recommendation to visit. That’s the nice thing about meeting people and sharing stories—we’ve ended up in so many places that originally weren’t in our itinerary. But that’s how travel should be: don’t overplan, go with the flow, and take a different track now and then. It’s all part of this amazing adventure.
Tomorrow, we leave for El Nido, which should be another scenic journey north—towards the gateway to stunning islands, lagoons, and beautiful marine life.
El Nido.
It’s an early start as we need to be at the bus terminal around 7 am for our journey to El Nido. The good thing is, it’s only a 5-minute walk from our accommodation. We’ll be sad to leave Port Barton—it’s one of those places that has left a lasting impression.
We are met with lots of hustle and bustle at the terminal, with people heading in all directions. It’s mainly backpackers, which is good to see—everyone eager to get on the right bus. It’s organised chaos, which seems to be the norm here. We’ve also become pretty laid-back after travelling for so long, so we just let the chaos happen around us as we’re shown out to our minibus.
The journey to El Nido takes around three and a half hours. It was an enjoyable trip, and as I assumed, it’s just as scenic as the ride from Puerto Princesa to Port Barton. Palawan is such a visually beautiful island, with lush countryside and rugged mountains.
As we approach El Nido, the first thing we see is the limestone karsts towering over the landscape, which the area is famous for. From high on the hill, we can see a beach nestled below. I’m quite excited to see what the area has to offer.
Our minibus drops us off on the main road that runs between El Nido town and Corong Corong Beach, which is the area where we’re staying. We are met by hordes of tricycle drivers offering rides, so we agree on a price and are quickly on our way to the hotel.
Although we arrive earlier than the usual check-in time, our room is ready—we love it when that happens, as it means we can get organised and settled immediately. The hotel is situated just off the main road in the center of Corong Corong. By the looks of things, I’m quite pleased with our choice of accommodation—it’s spotlessly clean, access to the beach is only a short walk across the road, and the area is surrounded by restaurants.
We drop off our belongings and are eager to explore. On first impression, it feels quite different from Port Barton—this place has more of a local town feel and isn’t quite as charming. But we’ll hold off on forming any opinions for now, as we haven’t explored yet.
Directly across from our hotel, there’s a nice alleyway that leads to the beach. It’s lined on either side with cute cafes, bistros, shops, and tourist offices—all eager to sell the many boat trips that El Nido is famed for. You can tell it will be a charming place to visit at night, with lights zigzagging above the alleyway.
At the very bottom of the lane the path turns into a Sandy walkway that leads right onto the beach by a beautiful restaurant and sunset lounge—perfect the place looks so inviting to relax and dine.
The beach itself is far from a disappointment. It’s framed on one side by a large limestone karst, and on the horizon, small islands are dotted across the water, making it visually beautiful. It’s only a short beach, and the tide is already starting to come in, so it’s not really the type of beach where you’d lay and sunbathe and the sea looks a bit rocky—but it looks perfect for walking and exploring.
We decide to walk along the stretch of beach in the direction of El Nido town. At the very end of Corong Corong Beach, we take a path that leads us back to the main road. We follow the busy road around the towering karst, which at least offers some shade, as we make our way into town. It’s a very busy stretch of road. Even though there are hordes of backpackers as we pass the area where we were dropped off earlier, it still feels very much like a local town.
Colourful Jeepney’s and other modes of transport rammed to the hilt with people and roof racks piled high with boxes and other goods. There are lots of dogs, cats and the occasional chicken roam freely and school kids just finishing up for the day—grabbing snacks from the many little makeshift food carts grilling pork skewers or offering fruit juices and other treats.
So far, it’s been interesting, it’s not the most attractive place we’ve visited, but I’m sure once we get out on the boat trips, we’ll see the real beauty the area has to offer.
We know we’ve arrived in the town when we see the large, brightly painted archway. It’s a dusty old place. While it may not be as picturesque as the nearby beaches and islands, it does has a charm of its own—although we can’t quite make up our minds yet about whether we like it or not. The town is a mix of narrow, bustling streets lined with hostels, guesthouses, dive shops, and tour operators eagerly promoting island-hopping trips. Small cafes, bars, and restaurants offer a blend of local Filipino dishes and international cuisine, catering mainly to backpackers and travellers.
Like the road on the way here, the town has a distinctly local atmosphere—tricycles weaving through the streets, children playing, locals running errands, and vendors selling fresh produce or grilled street food. The town’s beachfront isn’t the best for swimming, as it’s another short stretch of sand, and at high tide, the waves reach right up to the base of the buildings that cling to the shore, leaving little room to walk. However, it looks like a great spot to grab a drink and watch the sunset, with limestone cliffs in the distance and boats bobbing on the water.
After exploring the town for a while, we decide to head back, as it’s a couple of miles to the hotel. Tonight, we’ve decided to freshen up and then head across the road to the cute alleyway for dinner.
The alleyway didn’t disappoint, with its twinkling lights illuminating the pathway down to the beachfront. Unfortunately, the sunset lounge at the end is fully occupied—not surprising, really, as it looked like a great place to dine. Note to self: revisit earlier or later on another day. Instead, we decide to take a walk along the beach, as I’d spotted another sunset bar that looked worth a visit.
It’s only a short walk, but with the tide high, we have to remove our shoes as the sea rushes in—making it quite a charming way to reach the bar.
Unfortunately, the sun had just dipped below the horizon when we reached the bar, but it was still lovely to watch the remnants of daylight fade into darkness. The bay gradually became illuminated by moonlight, with the small lights of the many boats bobbing on the sea.
As for dinner, the popular sunset restaurant was still busy, so we opted to dine next door—which didn’t disappoint and made for a good end to an interesting introduction to El Nido.
We were looking forward to doing one or two of the boat trips while we were here, as this is the area’s main draw. Unfortunately, bad weather was forecast, with heavy rainfall expected, so we decided to delay for a day or two—we didn’t fancy being out at sea in torrential rain. As it happened, the rain never came—at least not during the day—so we could have done the trip after all. Anyway, we were in no rush, so what did it matter!
From Corong Corong Beach, you can walk in the opposite direction from El Nido town towards Las Cabanas Beach. We decided to do this one day. If the tide is low, you can walk along the beach between the two, and it’s said to be a beautiful route with scenic limestone cliffs and islands in the distance. Unfortunately, it was high tide when we set off, so we were unable to take the beach route and had to follow the main road that runs parallel to the coast instead. It wasn’t the most pleasant walk, as the road is quite busy, but at least we got some steps in!
To access the beach, you cut through a small outdoor shopping plaza. A few bistros and shops were open, but many units were empty—not sure if it was the aftermath of Covid or something else.
The first section of the beach is called Vanilla Beach, and it was a pleasant surprise—now we’re talking beach! This stretch is by far the best we’ve seen in the area. It’s lined with a handful of places to stay, along with inviting cafes and restaurants, giving the beach a livelier, more vibrant feel.
The sea, unfortunately, still isn’t the best for swimming, as it has a rocky bed, but we saw some people carefully making their way in with swim shoes. Many of the resorts offered sunbed rentals, and one even allowed the use of their pool as long as you purchased food and drinks.
There was a lovely vibe here, with small stalls selling fresh coconuts and fruit shakes—it felt like the kind of place you could happily spend a few hours.
Overhead, people were ziplining across to a small island—it was fun to watch. It wasn’t badly priced; you could whizz over in a sitting position, or for a few pesos extra, you could do it in the ‘Superman’ position. I’m not sure where the extra cost comes in—maybe an extra harness, or perhaps they throw in a Superman costume—ha!
We’d had a great day, but we were tired after our long walk, so we decided to stay in and have a low-key night. Just as we were relaxing, there was a power cut—a regular occurrence in these parts. We could hear generators kicking in around us, but unfortunately, we were left in the dark.
Unsure how long it would last, we decided the best thing to do was head out, especially as the room would soon become uncomfortably warm without air conditioning. So, we quickly got ready by torchlight and made our way along the beach to the sunset bar.
Many of the restaurants along the lane had generators, so the pathway was lit, and as we reached the bar, we could hear the sound of laughter. The bar had been pretty quiet on our first visit, but this time it was full. It was only a small place anyway, but most of the seats were taken, and more people were standing along the narrow bar. This only added to the atmosphere, and it definitely beat sitting in darkness!
We soon got chatting with a lively group who happened to be from Sweden. They were the camera crew stationed here to film the upcoming season of Survivor—or Expedition Robinson, as it’s known in Sweden. They would be on location for seven weeks on one of the small islands just offshore. Filming hadn’t started yet; the following morning was their first day to meet the rest of the crew and contestants, so that’s why they were all in good spirits and making the most of their evening.
We had a great evening and loved hearing their stories—although they seemed equally impressed with ours, which made us realise just how lucky we are. So much for an early night—we ended up being the last to leave the bar, well after midnight. Unplanned nights really are the best!
The forecasted bad weather, which never materialised, was now behind us, so we decided it was time to book the boat trip we had been so looking forward to. The tours here visit various islands, lagoons, and reefs, and they are categorised as Tours A, B, C, and D. After reading reviews, it seemed that Tours A and C were the most popular, so we decided to start with Tour A.
The meeting point was outside a restaurant in the centre of El Nido town. From there, we were led down to the beach and organised into different boats. Sellers immediately started hassling us, trying to sell dry bags—waterproof duffle bags available in all sizes. We politely refused, as we didn’t have much with us that could be damaged by water, apart from Shane’s camera, which he would just have to protect. The sellers were very persistent but eventually accepted our ‘no’.
We had to laugh, though, because when it was time to get on the boat, we were told to wade through the water—and I mean, it came right up over my chest by the time I reached the boat. It was hilarious—we were absolutely soaked! We held our bags over our heads, and thankfully, they stayed dry. But it definitely made us realise why the seller had been so persistent; he knew exactly what was coming!
The first stop in the boat was to the ‘big lagoon’. The boats all anchor up outside the entrance to the lagoon and the only way into the lagoon is by kayak which you can hire for an additional fee. I think everyone on the boat opted to do this as the ‘big lagoon’ is one of the highlights on Tour A.
The sea was quite choppy when we first got in the kayak, and my coordination wasn’t exactly in sync with Shane’s. As a result, we often found ourselves heading towards other kayakers, boats, or—better still—spinning in a full 360 turn! Of course, I got the blame, and Shane told me to stop rowing so terribly. He decided it would be best if I let him take control and try to get us to the lagoon in a straight line—ha!
Shane’s expert rowing got us to the lagoon where we were able to admire the beauty of our surroundings. Once inside, you’re surrounded by dramatic karst cliffs that rise vertically from the water, creating a natural amphitheater. The water is calm and shallow in places and the colours shift from vibrant turquoise near the entrance to a deeper green as you move further in.
I slowly got the hang of rowing once we reached the calmer waters. We navigated around the rocks and followed fellow kayakers through a narrow passageway between the limestone cliffs. When we reached a shallow area, we were able to get out of the kayak and spend a few minutes swimming in the beautiful, crystal-clear water.
Making it back to the boat in the choppy waters wasn’t quite as fun, but Shane managed to get us there without any collisions or 360-degree turns, and we made it safely back on board.
The tour continued to a reef where we had the chance to snorkel, which I was enjoying—until I started feeling stings. I knew jellyfish were the likely culprit, but I couldn’t see the blighters; they must have been very small. Other people mentioned feeling the same, so I was glad to get back on the boat.
We were then taken to a secret lagoon, which could only be accessed through a small opening in the limestone rock. If the sea had been calm, it would have been fine, but the waves were crashing in and out, and people trying to exit the lagoon were being thrashed about a bit too much for my liking. I decided to hang back and tread water with a lady from our boat. Shane and her husband went in to see the lagoon, while we chatted away in the water. When Shane came back, he said we hadn’t missed much, so I was glad I’d sat that one out.
Next, we anchored at a tiny bay on one of the small islands, along with a few other boats doing the same. Our crew waded from the boat carrying a makeshift table and boxes of lunch, setting everything up for us on the shore. There was a good selection of chicken, fish, rice, noodles, salad, and fruit—I think we were all ready for it after all the swimming and kayaking. Everyone sat quietly on the rocks, enjoying the food!
Our last stop of the day was at the stunning Seven Commandos Beach, with its powdery white sands and crystal-clear turquoise waters. Lined with coconut palms, it was a perfect tropical island paradise to bring our tour to a close. We had a good hour to enjoy the beach and the ocean. There’s even a small resort situated right on the beach, offering luxurious hut accommodation.
We met some lovely people on the tour—a mix of nationalities. The lady I had spoken to while opting out of the Secret Lagoon asked if we were free for dinner later. We were, so we made plans to meet up in the evening.
I suggested the Sunset Lounge, hoping there would be a table available. We met for a drink first, then headed to the restaurant. As luck would have it, there was a table available—in fact, there were a few free on this night. It was a great choice, as the food was amazing—probably one of the best meals I’d had in the Philippines. The conversation flowed effortlessly, bringing our lovely day to a perfect end.
One place we wanted to visit whilst in El Nido was Nacpan Beach. I’d made a note of this place from the same person that told us about ‘Port Barton’ which was great advice so we were happy to take his recommendation.
Nacpan Beach is around 45 minutes from El Nido town center, and the main ways to get there are by tricycle or shuttle bus. Many tour agencies in town offer shuttle services to and from the beach every hour. We opted for the shuttle bus as it was air-conditioned and far more comfortable than a tricycle, with the cost being roughly the same.
This stunning 4-kilometer stretch of golden sand lined with swaying coconut palms was recognised as the 10th most beautiful beach in the world by TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Awards in 2016.
The only problem was that, during the bus journey, the heavens decided to open, and we were caught in the biggest tropical downpour—which didn’t look like it was stopping anytime soon. This must have been the rain the forecast had been predicting. Typical that it would happen just as we decided to drive 45 minutes out of town!
Fortunately, where the bus dropped us off, there was a shelter. All of us from the bus decided to wait there in the hope that the heavy rain would pass. Luckily, after about half an hour, it eased off, so we made our way down to the beachfront.
Even with the slight rain, we could see the natural beauty of this beach—totally unspoiled. While Nacpan Beach maintains its serene ambiance, it also offers a range of accommodations, from rustic beachfront bungalows to more upscale resorts. There was a good selection of beach bars dotted along the top end of the beach, so we decided to grab some lunch in the hope that the sun would make a reappearance.
As if on cue, the sun came back out after lunch—just in time for us to walk the entire stretch of the beach. It was perfect for walking, with firm sand and stunning scenery. One side was lined with lush greenery and palm trees, while the other opened up to the sea with islands visible in the distance.
If we had been staying in El Nido longer, we probably would have spent a few nights here—it’s so beautiful.
The only downside was the presence of the dreaded sand flies, which seem to be a nuisance on many of the beaches in this area. These tiny, almost invisible bugs come out mainly at dawn and dusk to feed. Woe betide anyone not covered in repellent—you can end up with some nasty bites. They got me a couple of times back in Port Barton, so this time I made sure to cover myself in a thick layer of repellent, just in case.
I’m glad we managed to see this beach-another good recommendation. The shuttle service was good as well and got us back into town before sunset.
We decide we would freshen up and head back into El Nido town as we’d not yet sampled the nightlife. With a town full of backpackers and lots of lively looking bars and restaurants we were looking forward to it.
Back in town, it was nice to see the quirky streets come alive at night. We noticed a massive queue forming down one road and wondered what all the fuss was about. As we got closer, we realised the excitement was over a lady making the fluffiest cloud pancakes from a street truck. Judging by the size of the queue, she must have been Michelin standard—everyone was patiently waiting their turn to sample these delights.
Well, we weren’t here for fluffy pancakes—we were here for an ice-cold beer and, hopefully, some live music. As luck would have it, that’s exactly what we found just around the corner, in the form of a quirky bar that stretched from the roadside right onto the beach behind. People were dancing as the band played, and the vibe was buzzing.
We managed to grab two seats at the bar, giving us a great view of the band and the perfect spot to people-watch while enjoying that ice-cold beer.
We didn’t move all night—we were more than happy enjoying the music and the ambiance. We were entertained watching a guy enthusiastically pretending to play along with the band on a ukulele. He was really getting into it, though he wasn’t exactly Mr. Rock ‘n’ Roll—bless him!
Another great night! I’m glad we didn’t leave without experiencing El Nido’s nightlife. I’m sure it goes on until the early hours—we weren’t quite that hardcore—but we enjoyed the night all the same. This time, there was no way we were walking all the way back, so it was time to shout Taxi!… or should that be Trike!?
Before we left, we still wanted to do Tour C as a final boat trip, so we booked it for our last day. Unfortunately, the night before, Shane came down with the dreaded ‘El Nido belly.’ It’s a well-known issue here, with many travellers getting sick—mainly due to poor water quality.
To avoid it, you’re advised to steer clear of anything that might involve local water, like shaved ice or smoothies, unless you’re certain mineral water was used. We were also told to stick to foods we knew would be well-cooked. We followed all this advice, but unfortunately, something still upset Shane’s stomach. Because of that, we had to cancel our boat trip—it just wasn’t worth the risk.
It wasn’t the end of the world—it was just one of those things. The main thing was getting Shane better, as we were leaving tomorrow to take a ferry to our final stop in the Philippines: Coron Town on Busuanga Island.
A popular tour from El Nido is a 2-night, 3-day boat expedition to Coron town, stopping at countless islands and snorkeling spots, with camping overnight on designated islands along the way. We’d been debating whether to do it, but we got the feeling it might end up being more of a “booze cruise” full of youngsters making the most of the free-flowing alcohol that most of these tours proudly offer.
Now, don’t get us wrong—we love a good party as much as the next person—but we also enjoy remembering the daytime activities we paid for! So, we decided to skip the island-hopping rave and take the direct ferry instead.
So, El Nido—we still can’t quite decide what we think of you. It’s a strange place. You can walk along Corong Corong Beach and stumble upon upmarket resorts in a tropical setting, almost hidden from the outside world, with beautiful restaurants lining the shore. Yet, all of this sits alongside everyday local life, and from the main road running through town, you’d never even know these places existed.
There’s no denying its beauty, especially the stunning scenery and nearby islands. It’s not the kind of place I’d choose for a full holiday, but as part of our travels, I can see the appeal for a short stop. We still had a good time, as we always do, and met some lovely people along the way. But I’m happy we’re moving on now—let’s see what Coron has to offer!
Coron.
Our final stop in the Philippines was Coron Town, located on the island of Busuanga. It’s important not to confuse this with Coron Island, which lies adjacent and is home to the indigenous Tagbanua people, who have preserved its natural beauty and limited development. Coron Town serves as the primary base for most visitors exploring the area. We took a ferry from the main port in El Nido to Coron, a journey that typically takes between 3.5 to 4 hours.
The port in El Nido was quite an experience—we had never seen such strict security measures. First, we had to screen our bags before entering a small holding area. Then, sniffer dogs were brought in to inspect the group. Once the security team was satisfied, we were allowed to board the boat, and the next group of passengers went through the same process.
The crossing was great—probably my favorite so far! It was smooth, and the scenery was incredible as we passed countless small islands along the way. I had also booked seats on the upper outside deck, so it was nice and breezy.
As we approached Busuanga, Coron Island also came into view, lying just to the right. This breathtaking island is dominated by towering limestone formations, creating a rugged and dramatic coastline. It’s almost Jurassic, rising majestically from the ocean.
When we arrived at the port, trike drivers were unleashed, all eager to transport us into town. We like to drive a hard bargain, so I was turned down by two drivers before one finally accepted my price—and we were probably still overpaying, ha!
On the drive to the hotel, my first impression was that it was similar to El Nido—not the prettiest place, but I’m sure it will have plenty of character.
Much like El Nido, this place serves as the main gateway for exploring the stunning islands, lagoons, and shipwrecks of the Coron area. It’s also a starting or ending point for the popular three-day expedition between here and El Nido.
After a quick freshen-up at the hotel, we wasted no time heading out to see what the town had to offer. It’s very much a local town that has gained popularity with tourists in recent years. Nestled among local homes is a mix of hotels for all budgets, and we also noticed a few new ones under construction for the growing tourism.
Along the main road through town, there’s no shortage of restaurants, coffee shops, and souvenir shops catering to the many tourists who visit. You’ll find little bistros offering Western food alongside plenty of Filipino eateries. The town has a somewhat rugged and practical feel rather than being traditionally picturesque, and since it’s popular on the backpacker trail, we noticed a mix of different nationalities.
During our little venture out, we spotted a few places to visit later that evening where we could watch the world go by, and we made a note of a few restaurants.
Aside from the boat tours, we knew there wasn’t much to do around the town itself. We had read about the hot springs and the climb to the top of Mount Tapyas, which seems to be popular at sunset, but these two attractions can be enjoyed in a day. Plus Coron Town does not have a natural beach. While it is located by the sea, the shoreline is mostly used for docking boats, and the waterfront consists of piers, buildings, and seawalls rather than sandy beaches.
On our first day, we decided to visit the hot springs. To make more of an adventure out of it, we chose to walk. We made our way through town, heading back toward the port, and from there, the walk became more interesting and the landscape more scenic.
We passed through local villages, where children played, and dogs, cats, and chickens roamed freely. The people here may not have much, but they always have a smile!
Along the way, we saw two people having a bucket wash, lathered up with soap and using a jug to rinse off. They still managed a friendly wave as we strolled past. Nearby, a group of women were hand-washing laundry in large buckets—no modern luxuries like washing machines here. In fact, I’d be surprised if many homes even had a fridge. It was a humbling reminder of the everyday conveniences we often take for granted.
It took us around and hour and half to walk to the springs—with a couple of rest stops on the way, we wasn’t in any rush!
There is a small admission fee for the springs. The Maquinit Hot Springs are quite unique because, unlike most hot springs, their pools are filled with geothermal saltwater, which is believed to have therapeutic properties.
Set in a natural environment, the pools are surrounded by mangroves and lush greenery, with views of the ocean nearby.
The water temperature ranges from 37°C to 40°C, which I’m sure would help ease our muscles after the walk here. However, the thought of soaking in those temperatures under 30-degree sunshine could be quite a challenge!
So here goes! I dipped my toe into the water—it felt quite nice, actually—then slowly submerged my legs to adjust to the temperature. I chose to enter the spring where shade from an overhead tree provided some relief, rather than being in full sunshine.
Once I had adjusted, I got in fully. It felt like when you run a bath a little too hot and need time to get used to it. It was actually quite nice, but you couldn’t stay in for too long—you could feel your heart rate start to increase a little.
The only thing missing was an ice-cold pool to dip into afterward to cool down. We had to make do with the overhead shade and noticed there were some showers, but the water from them wasn’t particularly cool.
We repeated the process a few more times, as the spring was quite nice—not exactly refreshing, but enjoyable all the same!
We walked all the way back into town, with many trikes passing by and offering us a ride. We politely refused, as we wanted to get our steps in. We were the only Westerners walking—they probably thought we were crazy, but we enjoyed it, we most certainly earned our dinner that’s for sure!
We were staying in Coron Town a few extra days—more than we really needed—but that’s just how it worked out when I was trying to book the best flight to our next destination. It wasn’t the end of the world, though; there are definitely worse places to spend a little extra time! Plus, it gave us a chance to relax and work on the blog.
We still had boat trips to go on and we hadn’t yet ventured up Mount Tapyas, which is what we decided to do the following day. We left it until late afternoon and timed it so we would see the sunset-plus the temperatures would have dropped a little making the climb a little easier-hopefully!
Mount Tapyas is one of the most popular viewpoints in Coron. It’s a relatively short but steep hike, with 720 steps leading to the summit. The reward? A stunning panoramic view of Coron town, the surrounding islands, and the bay.
The steps are numbered every hundred, and I’m not sure if that’s a good or bad thing. Sometimes, I’d rather not know how many are left! But on the plus side, when you’re almost at the top, at least you know the end is in sight.
We took a few rest breaks at the many shaded seating areas strategically placed along the climb. We timed the sunset well—the sun was just starting to drop, and it wouldn’t be long before it disappeared behind a cluster of islands in the distance and dipped below the horizon.
As we rested along the way, it gave us a chance to take in the view as it unfolded—and wow, what a view! The island of Coron stretched out in all its glory, and to the right, the sun was setting with just the right amount of hazy cloud.
When we reached the summit, we still had a little time to fully take in the view. Many people had chosen to sit on the hillside, waiting for the sun to set.
At the top, there is a large white cross that is illuminated at night, along with the word “Coron” spelled out in large white letters—almost like a mini Hollywood sign!
We didn’t have to wait too long to watch the sun set, which is always an amazing sight, especially over a view like this one. It was most definitely worth the hike, and the hike down was much more enjoyable, heading in the direction of the bar—ha!
A couple of days later we planned a boat trip. We were quite excited about this as it’s the main draw to the area. There are so many different options, each with a slightly different itinerary. We didn’t know if to do a couple of tours but then came across one called the ‘Super ultimate’ which explores most of the lakes and lagoons in one go-perfect!
The first stop was a snorkelling spot not too far off coast where we got to see lots of colour fish and this time I didn’t come in contact with any small jelly fish so it was much more enjoyable, then back in the boat we headed to Kayangan Lake which is known for its incredibly clear waters, often dubbed the cleanest lake in the Philippines. A short hike leads to a viewpoint overlooking the lake before you descend into the tranquil crystal clear waters where we spent a short time relaxing.
Next we headed to Barracuda Lake and this one took me by surprise. I realise now why It’s a popular free diving and scuba diving site due to its unique underwater rock formations. Using a snorkel it’s utterly breathtaking. Below the surface, the lake is a mesmerising blend of crystal-clear waters and dramatic underwater landscapes.
The lake is surrounded by towering limestone cliffs, which create a surreal, almost otherworldly atmosphere as the cliffs descend into the lake. The entire lake feels like a hidden underwater world, with a sense of calm yet deep mystery.
I was fascinated watching one of the guys from our tour free dive into the scary depths of this lake. He went so deep that he disappeared from sight for a short while before thankfully reappearing making his accent to the surface. He told us he’d been in training for this free dive for some time and was thrilled he’d managed to do it.
Next we headed to the Twin Lagoons. The two lagoons offer different experiences due to their varying water temperatures. The upper lagoon is the first one you encounter from the boat. This lagoon is the warmer of the two, with water that is mostly freshwater. It is surrounded by towering limestone cliffs, and the water is crystal clear. The Lower Lagoon – The second lagoon, which you access through an opening in the limestone wall, is saltwater and is slightly cooler.
The lagoons were another incredible place, almost felt like you were entering a secluded paradise. The lagoons are encased in dramatic limestone cliffs that rise sharply from the water, creating a surreal and isolated atmosphere. The cliffs are lush with greenery, and the overall view is breath-taking.
After leaving the lagoons, the boat took us to Siete Pecados Marine Park, where we had the chance to snorkel in a beautiful coral garden. It was here that we stopped for a delicious lunch prepared by the crew. Over lunch, we chatted more with a large group on our tour. They were from New York and all had Filipino heritage. They had come together as a party to celebrate one of the couples getting married and had been touring several Filipino islands as well as Bali.
The afternoon we got to visit the Okikawa Maru, one of the many shipwrecks in the area. This is one of the largest and most famous. It’s a Japanese oil tanker that was sunk during WWII and lies at a depth of around 15–30 meters. Divers can explore the wreck, which is encrusted with corals and teeming with marine life.
For us, the visibility wasn’t amazing, but the shipwreck itself is largely intact, allowing divers to swim through its hull and over its massive deck. The guy who had been training to free dive quickly explored the wreck, while we enjoyed observing from above.
The remainder of the tour took us to CYC Beach, with white sands and clear water, and Beach 91, offering beautiful ocean views.
We had an amazing day—the Super Ultimate Tour was the right choice for us as we got to see all these incredible sights in one day. It was a long, fun-packed day, and we arrived back at the pier just as the sun was setting.
This brought our time in the Philippines almost to an end. We had just one more day left, which would actually be our 25th Wedding Anniversary. We didn’t plan much; we were happy to have a relaxed day and enjoy a nice meal later to celebrate. Shane joked he’d take me to Thailand for our anniversary, which was half true, but only because that was the next place we were heading.
Overall, while Coron Town itself isn’t the main attraction, it has a lively, authentic vibe and serves as a convenient base for experiencing the breathtaking beauty of the surrounding islands and dive sites. I can definitely see its appeal.
After spending just over two months exploring the Philippines, we’re heading back to Thailand—a country we first visited at the start of our journey. Back then, our visa-on-arrival allowed only a 30-day stay, limiting us to exploring parts of the south, as well as Bangkok and Ayutthaya. We always knew we’d return, given Thailand’s vast offerings. This time we are allowed 60 days visa so we’re beginning in Chiang Rai, in the north, to experience its remarkable temples, rich history, and vibrant culture.
