Midlifers Go East
Busan.
We were sad to leave Japan behind but with new adventures ahead I’m sure we wouldn’t dwell too long. Our next stop was South Korea and conveniently you can travel by ferry from Fukuoka over to Busan. I booked a daytime crossing which takes 6 hours and the sailing wasn’t until 12:30 so we had plenty time to make it to the port.
What I hadn’t planned was the bus dropping us off at the wrong pier, plus it had been stuck in traffic a little longer than I’d hoped so we were already on the minutes. “Stay calm” I told myself, let’s quickly see where we need to go and get a spurt on. The next pier along was the right one, but it was still a brisk 15 minute walk. With heavy bags in tow, I knew this was it was going to be a serious workout.
Flushed and out of breath we arrived just in time. A line soon formed behind us, making us realise we probably didn’t need to rush as much as we had.
Even though it was a daytime crossing I decided to book us a small cabin with bunk beds. It was reasonably priced, so thought why not have the option to fully relax.
The sailing was smooth, and we were grateful to have the cabin. I had packed us a lunch, which we devoured before we even set off. It made me laugh, bringing back childhood memories of begging to start the picnic in the car just minutes after leaving home.
At one point we pulled ourselves away from the comfort of our cabin, curious to explore the onboard facilities. Along with the usual restaurant and lounges, we discovered unique touches you’d only find in this part of the world such as private karaoke rooms and public baths overlooking the sea.
We didn’t explore for long as Shane hadn’t quite found his sea legs and started to feel queasy. We decided to retreat back to the cabin and stay there for the rest of the journey.
We approached Busan’s harbor just after sunset, mesmerised by the city’s vast skyline and dazzling lights. Towering skyscrapers and the impressive Busan harbour suspension bridge that glowed against a backdrop of dark mountains. Approaching a new country by sea was a refreshing change, especially with the breathtaking spectacle of lights, it was much more enchanting than arriving by plane.
It didn’t take long to disembark and get through security and customs.
As we stepped into a new country, our first priority was to withdraw local currency from the ATM and purchase travel cards. Thankfully, the ferry terminal offered both services. Having researched ahead of time, I knew that South Korea, like many destinations, benefits from a single travel card. We found the convenience store in the terminal and loaded our cards with enough balance for the next few days before setting off in search of the bus.
We was staying in the Nampo district so reaching the hotel was a quick and easy journey as it wasn’t too far from the ferry terminal. Since it was still early in the evening, we had time to explore our new surroundings. Our first impressions were promising. I knew I had made a good choice as we found ourselves in a vibrant area bustling with shops, lively streets lined with an array of restaurants and a few quirky bars.
We noticed a few differences in the dining culture here. In the bars drinks are served with complimentary snacks (like many places in Europe) so we happily munched on a variety of treats including popcorn, nuts and breadsticks along with some unfamiliar snacks we had to look up.
Tired after a day of travelling we decided not to stay out too late, we looked forward to exploring more after a good nights sleep.
Busan is South Korea’s second largest city so we knew there was going to be a lot here for us to see. The city is a blend of modernity and traditional offering a mix of attractions.
The weather at this time of year is perfect. Like home they have 4 distinct seasons, and as autumn begins, temperatures hover in the low 20’s. It’s a visual time of year as the leaves change colour and start to fall, it does get a little chill in the air at night which we were more than happy to embrace after many months of high temperatures.
On our first morning we walked up to the Busan tower which was situated just behind our hotel in Yongdusan park, The Tower built in 1973 stands at 120 metres and is an iconic landmark. It offers stunning panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains, especially from its observation deck located at a height of 78 meters with 360-degree views. The park itself is a lovely green space with paths, gardens, temple and sculptures.
We found out that we made our way to the tower the hard way winding through the streets below and up a series of steps. It wasn’t until our descent that we discovered the convenient escalators that run from the shopping street below all the way up to the park.
The Nampo district is a shoppers paradise, it’s home to the famous Gukje Market, one of South Korea’s largest traditional markets, where visitors can browse through a maze of stalls selling everything from clothing and accessories to local street food. It’s also home to ‘Lotte Mall’ which is a huge shopping complex featuring a wide range of stores, from high-end brands to affordable fashion, electronics and cosmetics. It also features cafes, restaurants, gym and cinema. Situated on the upper floors and rooftop is an observation deck.
In need of some retail therapy, we decided to head over to Lotte Mall and spend the remainder of the day shopping while also enjoying panoramic views of the city from the observation deck.
There is so much to explore in Busan, so the following day we decided to venture into some of the city’s other districts. Seomyeon, known for its vibrant atmosphere, caught our attention as our first destination. We opted for the metro, taking advantage of the city’s reliable underground system.
Exiting the subway the street was filled with fruit and veg sellers with products laid out in baskets or makeshift stalls. Tangerines especially as they are a beloved fruit in South Korea, especially in Busan as the climate is ideal for growing them. Another popular snack are chestnuts, with an abundance of street vendors roasting them over open flames.
We strolled through the bustling shopping and entertainment area, amused to see Christmas decorations being installed, some street were cordoned off as they were being decorated. With its colourful streets you could see that this area would come alive in the evenings. Known for its nightlife, this district is dotted with bars and clubs, making it an ideal spot to enjoy a night out.
Happy with our short exploration of the area we headed back to the subway as we had decided to spend the afternoon at the Gamcheon Cultural Village which is a vibrant and artistic neighborhood known for its colorful houses, artistic murals, and rich cultural history, it has become a popular destination for both locals and tourists.
The village is perched on a hillside, so after taking the metro as far as we could, we decided to skip the bus and walk the rest of the way. As we reached the top and looked down, the full view of Gamcheon’s unique charm unfolded before our eyes. The steep, narrow alleyways and brightly painted houses cascaded down the hillside. Despite the shifting weather, the village was bustling with tourists, all eager to explore its winding paths, cute cafes and instagram worthy photo spots.
Gamcheon has a rich history, originally established in the 1920s as a refuge for Korean War refugees. Efforts have been made to preserve its cultural heritage while promoting artistic development, giving visitors a glimpse into the village’s past.
It’s an open-air gallery, with numerous murals and art installations adorning the walls and streets. Local artists have transformed the village into a canvas, making it a delightful place to explore and appreciate creative expressions.
Unfortunately we couldn’t fully explore the village as much as we hoped as the weather began to turn, with the wind picking up. We decided we would return on a brighter day when we could delve into all its nooks and crannies and capture it in better light.
We headed back to the hotel and having built up an appetite we decided we would sample some street food that evening.
South Korea is known for its street food and close to our hotel was BIFF Square which is one of the best spots to find a variety of vendors. Most street food is affordable, allowing you to sample multiple dishes without breaking the bank. With a mix of sweet and savoury dishes on offer we were spoiled for choice. We settled on the Korean chicken in a spicy sauce and steamed pork dumplings both were delicious.
Being a coastal city, Busan has no shortage of scenic coastal trails. The closest one to Nampo was the Jeoryeong Coastal Walk, which conveniently begins at the Huinnyeoul Culture Village a spot that looked intriguing in its own right. It was only a short bus ride away so with that, our day’s adventure was set.
The Huinnyeoul Culture Village is perched on the hillside along the coast offering stunning views of the sea and surrounding cliffs. With its brightly painted buildings and colourful murals this charming seaside neighbourhood is often referred to as the “Santorini of Busan”. There are two scenic walking trails that run parallel to each other along the coastline and clifftop. The clifftop one passes through the village with small shops and cozy cafes with lovely outdoor seating areas to provide perfect resting stops.
Like Gamcheon the village was originally developed in the 1950s to house refugees after the Korean War. Many of the original buildings still stand giving the village a historical depth and a glimpse into Busan’s past.
Where the village ends it becomes the starting point of the Jeoryeong Coastal Walk, this scenic trail is dotted with murals, sculptures, and cultural installations. You can see a lot of money and thought has gone into this walkway. The trail is well maintained, with benches and lookout points strategically placed along the path.
The 3 km trail stretches to Jungni Beach, winding along the coastline with a mix of steps and paved paths. Convenient stairways connect the upper and lower trails, making it easy to switch between them. We ventured back and forth, descending steps that brought us to a rocky pathway along a pebbled beach, where locals gathered to fish off the rocks. Following the lower path, we soon arrived at a vibrant suspension bridge that spans the rocks, adding a splash of color and offering stunning ocean views along the way.
It’s also along this stretch of coast that you can often see female divers from the Namhang Village Group who free dive to collect shellfish and other seafood in a unique way.
At the trail’s end in the fishing village of Jungni, we arrived at a lighthouse overlooking the sea. A couple of cafes nearby gave us the perfect spot to enjoy a coffee before starting our journey back. To keep things fresh, we switched to the opposite trails, uncovering new sights along the way. We passed the Yeongdo Haneul Observation Deck which offered breathtaking views over the ocean and a scary glass walkway. Further along, the lower pathway led us through the Huinnyeoul Coastal Tunnel, a charming passage that added a unique touch to our return journey.
We had an amazing day! The walk was fantastic, and we both thoroughly enjoyed every moment and it was great to see so many people out enjoying the trails.
Given Busan’s vastness, we’ve decided to venture into another district to explore further. We chose the beachside resort of Haeundae, which seems perfectly suited for us, offering more scenic coastal walks. This time, we’ve booked an apartment, allowing us to enjoy some home comforts during our stay.
With our apartment only a short walk from the beach it was the first place we wanted to explore. This stunning stretch of golden sand has a wide promenade and set against a backdrop of impressive skyscrapers. It was also so well kept and all the surroundings were immaculate. Being off season it’s the perfect place to relax or walk. During the summer months the beach is packed with loungers and umbrellas and people enjoying the sea and water sports.
Walking is what we love so we ventured along the beach promenade towards Dongbaek Island which is a small but scenic park situated at the western end of the beach and although it’s connected to the mainland it does have a peninsula vibe and charm of an island. It had great pathways that wind along the rocky shores that lead to the statue of the mermaid – a nod to a local legend and further along to the islands lighthouse.
One of the main highlights on the island is the Nurimaru APEC House, an iconic modern building with its glassy circular design which was constructed to host the 2005 APEC summit. Today, it serves as a small exhibition hall with panoramic views of Haeundae and Gwangalli Beach.
Another tourist attraction in Haeundae is the Blue Line Park which is a scenic coastal park built on an old railway line, it features two main attractions, the Beach Train and the Sky Capsule. The Beach Train travels along a 4.8km track, offering views of the coastline, while the cute colorful Sky Capsules glide higher up along the same route, providing stunning panoramic views over the ocean and beaches below. With stations at key points like Mipo, Cheongsapo, and Songjeong, you can hop on and off to explore.
Running alongside the railway is the blue line Park trail which goes on for miles so we were more than happy to walk this route which is popular with dog walkers, joggers and people in general enjoying the coastal scenery.
Along the trail stunning skywalks extend out over the ocean. While I was eager to explore these Shane’s fear of heights kept him firmly on solid ground. With sections made of glass flooring, even I couldn’t bring myself to step onto those transparent platforms.
The walkway went on further but due to the time of day we only went as far as Cheongsapo, a picturesque fishing village with a charming harbour. Filled with colourful fishing boats and beautifully painted lighthouses. The village also boasted several cafes, each with inviting outdoor seating, perfect for relaxing and soaking in the stunning coastal views which we did before returning back along the coastal trail.
It was almost dusk as we headed back along the walkway. It’s my favorite time of day when the remaining sunlight shimmers on the ocean and the sky is filled with hues of pink.
As the sky darkened the pathway was illuminated with light and the little sky trains continued to travel above. There was still plenty of people around as it became clear the trail is just as popular as night falls. The ocean skywalks were brightly lit with colour changing light’s and one of the train tunnels was artfully illuminated with different colours in the archways.
It was another brilliant walk. A high five to South Korea for putting so much effort into creating these amazing walkways for people to enjoy! We loved it so much that we are returning tomorrow, but we’ll set off earlier since the pathway extends miles further along the coast, allowing us to see how far we can get.
True to our word the next morning we made a point of getting out earlier and rejoined the pathway to the fishing village. It didn’t seem to take us as long this time, probably because we wasn’t stopping every two minute to take photographs.
The pathway continued to another ocean skywalk, this one being the Cheongsapo Daritdol skywalk. The 72.5m long and 20m high observatory in the shape of a blue dragon stretches out impressively over the ocean.
We continued along the walkway until it came to an end at Songjeong Beach. This picturesque stretch of sand is popular among locals and tourists alike, particularly surfers, thanks to its consistent waves and beautiful shoreline. Unlike Haeundae it had a much more relaxed beach vibe with no towering skyscrapers. The beach was lined with cafes, restaurants and promenade.
We continued around the bay to the pavilion at the far end then followed the coast. We passed local fishing villages and by pure luck it led us to the Haedong Yonggung temple. The temple was somewhere we planned to visit during our time here. I hadn’t realised this was its location which was a bonus.
The seaside Buddhist temple founded in the 14th century is renowned for its picturesque setting, perched on rocky cliffs overlooking the Sea.
The temple was bustling with tourists arriving by the busload. Unfortunately, the main temple was undergoing renovations and was shrouded in scaffolding, which was a bit disappointing. Throughout our travels, we had encountered similar situations at various historical sites. However, there were still plenty of beautiful aspects to explore within the temple that made the visit worthwhile.
Happy to leave the crowds of the temple behind, we continued a few more miles along the rugged coastline until we found a tranquil spot overlooking a small shrine perched on a rocky outcrop. It had always been our plan to walk as far as we could along the coast and then take a bus back, but as we sat there savoring the beautiful day, we pondered whether to walk back instead. Although it would be a long trek, we were both up for the challenge. We reassured ourselves that we could always catch a bus if we needed to, so why not embrace the journey?
We made it all the way back, and let’s be honest—we both knew taking the bus was never going to happen. As we rejoined the coastal walkway, it was already dark, but with the path illuminated it wasn’t a problem. Happy when we saw the stunning skyline of Haeundae coming into view, thoughts in my head saying “come on your nearly there!”
By the time we finally reached our apartment, we had racked up an impressive 16 mile, our longest walk yet. My legs were starting to feel like jelly, but thankfully, I had prepared a chicken stew that morning (ha-get me!), giving us something tasty to tuck into. We were both grateful that we wouldn’t have to set foot outside the apartment again, all that was left to do was enjoy our hard-earned feast and let our feet recover from their epic adventure!
The following day, we agreed to take it easy after our long trek. With a mix of clouds and sunshine, we decided it was the perfect time to revisit Gamcheon Culture Village. We opted for the subway, followed by a bus ride that would take us right up to the village. It would save our legs while still looking forward to exploring the colorful streets and unique art installations that the village has to offer.
Where the bus drops you is in the heart of the village, so it was just as crowded as last time. It’s such a popular tourist spot that it’s always busy, especially around the cute cafes and Instagram photo hotspots. However, once you lose yourself in the maze of narrow alleyways and navigate the steep stairways, the crowds seem to disperse.
We were so glad we returned, even though our legs weren’t thanking us for all the steep steps! We realised that during our first visit, we had only scratched the surface. Every alleyway held something interesting, with art pieces around every corner, hidden in nooks and crannies. Since it’s still a residential area and home to local people, it’s important to be respectful of their homes while you explore.
As we’ve seen in many places, a few people were dressed in traditional costumes to take photos in the colourful streets. We used them as props for our own photos, and when a young group asked if we could take their picture, Shane happily obliged. While he did that, I seized the opportunity for a sneaky photo of my own—they didn’t mind at all!
By the end of the day, we had still clocked up a fair few miles, but that’s all good; it keeps us fit and helps us walk off all the tasty Korean fried chicken we’re sure to tuck into later!
I loved planning our days and while we were enjoying the coastal walks, I discovered another one which wasn’t too far away called the Igidae Coastal Trail. We could take the subway to get close to the start of the trail.
The trail spans 4.5 km, so it wasn’t too long and winds its way around the coast, providing access to various viewpoints and picturesque coves.
We were also treated to fantastic views of the iconic Gwangan Bridge, a truly impressive feat of engineering. Spanning the bay with its striking suspension design.
The path along the trail was well maintained and included sections with wooden walkways and a series of suspension bridges, which I don’t favor, as they bounced a bit too much for my liking but I won’t let Shane know as I’m supposed to be the brave one where heights are concerned-ha!
Speaking of heights, we were enjoying the walk until we got about three-quarters of the way along when Shane noticed that the wooden walkway was fastened to the side of the cliff face. As secure as it was, his fear got the better of him, and we had to turn around and retrace our steps—oh no! That meant I had to cross those darn suspension bridges once more. I’d survive, I’m sure!
As we’d cut our walk short we decide to explore the immediate area. I noticed a sign saying that Gwangalli beach was 3km away so we decided to walk in that direction. Gwangalli beach was an area that we were interested in staying so we were happy to check it out and see if it was worth us extending our stay in Busan.
I’ve mentioned previously how impressive Korea’s walkways are, and it’s clear they put a lot of thought into promoting fitness. As we made our way toward Gwangalli, we couldn’t help but notice the abundance of outdoor gym equipment, available to the public for free, along with the well maintained walking and cycling paths. There were even paths with a spongy surface to reduce impact on the joints! What’s really good is seeing how much people actually use it all, so many were out exercising, cycling, or just enjoying the fresh air. The pleasant weather surely helps, but it was refreshing to see such an active community.
We were immediately impressed when we arrived at Gwangalli Beach. It has a completely different vibe from Haeundae. While Haeundae’s beach and promenade are lovely, they’re separated from the shops and restaurants by a six-lane road. Here, there’s still a promenade, but only a two-lane road, which makes the shops, bars, and restaurants feel more connected and less segregated. The overall atmosphere at Gwangalli is also more laid-back and beachy, with a distinctly tourist-friendly feel.
So, Seeing how nice it was, we decided we would extend our stay and book a few nights in Gwangalli-why not!
We found a small apartment set back a few streets from the beach, a great location to allow us to fully explore.
Even though it was a cooler time of year, the resort was bustling with both tourists and locals. The beach promenade was lively, with plenty of people strolling along the shoreline and soaking up the atmosphere. This resort is also well-known for the impressive Gwangan Bridge, which spans the entire bay. At night, the bridge is especially stunning as it lights up in a dazzling display. Each hour, it performs a captivating light show with vibrant colours and patterns.
We’d read that this is the kind of place where there’s always something happening, whether a festival, concert, or special event. At the moment, a stage was being set up on the beach with rows of chairs arranged in front of it, sure we’d find out what was coming up in the next few days.
The place was full of thoughtful little touches. Music played from speakers along the promenade and air blowers were conveniently stationed near the beach entrances to clear sand from your shoes. A charming, multicoloured dome on the beach caught my eye; inside, you could write a postcard to be sent anywhere in the world—but with a twist. The postcard would be mailed exactly one year later, humorously dubbed “the slowest postcard service—ha!” It’s one of those places where every detail seems carefully considered, with no expense spared.
We had done so much walking during our time in Busan, and this area was no different. From the beach promenade, we were able to walk around the headland, where it joined a well-maintained walking path that ran alongside the river. The path stretched for miles, separated for walkers and cyclists. It led us past Centum City, a vibrant shopping, dining, and entertainment district often hailed as one of the largest shopping complexes in the world. Scattered along the river were various parks and recreational areas, featuring sculptures and art installations that added to the charm. It was even more stunning in the evening, with the skyline illumintaed and the reflections on the river.
The evenings came alive in Gwangalli, as bars and restaurants lined the waterfront, each offering outdoor seating, covered terraces, or expansive windows that framed views of the promenade and the bridge. We discovered that the stage had been set up for a concert, and we enjoyed watching several acts perform for a cheerful crowd, all of which enhanced the vibrant atmosphere of the area.
Between the three districts, we ended up spending two weeks in Busan and enjoyed every minute. However, it was now time to move on. As I often do, I had been researching potential destinations and came across an island that was worth visiting: Jeju Island. We would need to fly from Busan, but it was only a short 45-minute flight and very reasonably priced, so we agreed that it would be our next stop.
Jeju is cherished by South Koreans and is gaining popularity among international visitors. Would you believe that the airline route from Seoul to Jeju Island is the busiest passenger route in the world? Surprisingly, it’s not London to New York! With more than 88,000 flights annually, the Seoul-Jeju route has maintained its status as the world’s busiest air route (measured by passenger numbers), a title it has held for multiple consecutive years.
Armed with that intriguing piece of information, we knew we couldn’t miss the opportunity to visit.
Jeju island
Jeju Island is a volcanic island off the southern coast of South Korea, known for its stunning natural beauty, unique landscapes, and sub tropical climate. It’s also home to Hallasan Mountain, South Korea’s tallest peak, with an abundance of lush hiking trails, picturesque waterfalls, beaches, and dramatic coastal cliffs we looked very much forward to exploring.
A short 45 minute flight took us from Busan Airport over to Jeju. After a quick hop onto a local bus we were soon arriving at our next destination.
We chose to spend our first two nights in Jeju City for a couple of reasons. First, it was only 15 minutes from the airport, so we didn’t have to worry about traveling across the island that same day. Second, the weather forecast predicted heavy rain over the next 24 hours, so staying close by made sense until the storm passed.
On our first evening, we headed out to grab a bite to eat. Over dinner, we briefly struck up a conversation with three young locals at the next table. They were curious about where we were from, so we chatted for a few minutes before they returned to their own conversation. As they were leaving, they wished us well on our travels, and one of them turned back to say, “Oh, by the way, I’ve taken care of your bill.” We were stunned! We told him it wasn’t necessary, but he waved it off with a smile. We were completely floored—some people are so generous, even after such a brief chat.
Just as we headed back to the hotel the rain started, so we picked up a few essentials to see us through the next day. We were glad we had, as it poured nonstop just as predicted for the next 24 hours giving us the perfect excuse to stay in and catch up on the blog.
By the next day the storm had passed, and we woke to clearer skies. Now able to move on, we decided to head south to the town of Seogwipo, as I’d read that it’s an ideal base for exploring both the eastern and western regions, with convenient transport links.
The main form of public transport across the island is by bus and has several main bus routes connecting the island’s key areas, including Jeju City, Seogwipo, the airport, and popular tourist spots like Hallasan National Park, Seongsan Ilchulbong, and various beaches.
While buses might require a bit of planning compared to renting a car, they’re an affordable and eco-friendly way to explore Jeju’s sights.
The bus journey across the island was incredibly scenic, steadily climbing to reveal magnificent views of Hallasan mountain which dominates the landscape standing at 1,947 meters (6,388 feet). Formed millions of years ago through successive eruptions, Hallasan’s gentle, broad slopes are the result of numerous lava flows that spread over the island in all directions. Its wide, dome-like shape is characteristic of shield volcanoes, and its summit contains a stunning crater lake, Baengnokdam.
In addition to its natural beauty, Hallasan holds geological significance as one of the most well-preserved shield volcanoes in the world. It’s an active volcano, though it hasn’t erupted in over 5,000 years, and is considered dormant. Despite this, the mountain continues to shape the island’s climate, biodiversity, and cultural landscape.
With autumn in full swing the trees and landscape around the mountain were ablaze with shades of fall, set against blue skies it was picture perfect. As we descended on the other side the landscape changed once more as the crystal blue of the ocean came into views and palm trees dotted giving it a more tropical feel.
Seogwipo is a coastal city which is bustling with shops, restaurants and the popular ‘Olle market’ which is a large covered market known for its vibrant atmosphere. The market sells a wide array of fresh produce, seafood, and street food. You’ll find stalls selling Jeju’s famous tangerines and Jeju’s unique black pork. The market is not only a great place to sample the island’s culinary delights but also a spot to experience the island’s culture and interact with friendly locals. Our hotel was directly behind the market so it was the first place we visited after settling in. We sampled the black pork which was delicious and stocked up on some of the famous tangerines.
With not many daylight hours left, we had just enough time to visit Jeongbang Waterfall, which was only a 30-minute stroll from the market. There is a small entrance fee to visit the site which is accessed via a well maintained stairway to the base of the falls. Jeongbang falls is one of the most famous waterfalls on the island. What makes it unique is that it is one of the few waterfalls in the world that directly flows into the ocean. The waterfall cascades dramatically from a height of about 23 meters into the sea below and is surrounded by lush greenery and volcanic rocks.
After visiting the falls we had a quick walk along the coastal path before returning back to the hotel. We would save our legs as I had a big walk planned the following day.
Jeju island is an amazing place for walking and hiking. ‘The Olle Trail’ which is a 437km network of scenic walking paths wind completely around the island. There are a total of 27 routes, 21 of which loop the main island and the other 6 routes are located on smaller nearby islands. All the walkways are well marked with orange and blue arrows (blue clockwise, orange anti-clockwise) plus you’ll see coloured ribbons tied as markers along the way.
The Olle Trail can be enjoyed by walking individual routes, but many hikers take on the challenge of completing all of them, which typically takes about a month. To track your progress, you can get an “Olle Passport,” which you stamp as you finish each route. At the end of each trail, you’ll find designated boxes where you can stamp your passport, marking your achievement and adding a fun souvenir to your journey.
We wouldn’t be on the island long enough to complete all the trails, but we would try to walk as many as we could during our time here.
Over the next few days, we set out to conquer routes 5, 6, 7, and 8 — conveniently the closest Olle trails to the Seogwipo district. Each trail varies from 6 to 14 miles, though Jeju’s Olle Trails average about 9 miles per route. Determined and fully geared up in our best walking trousers and trusty trainers, we transformed into the “jolly hikers.”
We proudly completed trails 6 and 7, while trails 5 and 8 were a bit more “choose your own adventure” as we only made it halfway through each. With every trail, we embraced the ups, downs, scenic detours, and snack breaks. By the end, we’d earned our “semi-professional” Olle hiking badges — or so we liked to think!
Each trail offers something different. The day we did trail 7 we made a detour first to Saeseom island which is a small, serene island accessed by the Saeyeongyo foot bridge. Once on the island you can follow the walking trail, it’s only a short trail but offers views of the coast and surrounding islands. We continued from there to join Trail 7 which is known for its diverse landscapes, from scenic beaches and rocky cliffs to charming villages and farmland.
Also from trail 7 if you look inland you can see the Jeju World Cup Stadium which is an impressive multi-purpose arena that was built to host matches for the 2002 FIFA World Cup. Its design is inspired by Jeju’s volcanic landscape, resembling a volcanic crater from above, and also pays homage to Jeju’s famous haenyeo female divers, as the stadium’s shape mimics a traditional diving cap. The open, airy structure offers stunning views of the surrounding coastline and Hallasan Mountain in the distance, making it one of the most scenic stadiums in South Korea.
One thing that pleasantly surprised us when we first arrived on the island was the abundance of tropical plants, including a wide variety of palm trees and cacti. It was far more tropical than we had imagined.
As Jeju has a unique climate that sets it apart from the mainland, the island’s warm temperatures, mild winters, and high humidity create an environment where palm trees and tropical plants thrive. Tall, elegant palm trees line many roads and beaches, this lush landscape was especially evident along the trails.
Tangerine farms also dot the island, Jeju tangerines, also known as hallabongare one of the island’s most famous and beloved products. Grown in the volcanic soil and mild climate, these tangerines are exceptionally sweet, juicy, and rich in flavour and as autumn winter is the harvest the trees were bursting with these ripe fruits. You often see locals selling fresh tangerines at roadside stands. Beyond the roadside, many residents place bags of tangerines in “honesty boxes” along hiking trails, by small village paths, or on stone walls outside their homes. Here, you can simply drop a few coins into a box in exchange for a bag of freshly picked fruit, it was something we did on most walks.
Trail 6 offered breathtaking views of the ocean, dramatic cliffs, and volcanic landscapes. Along the way, we encountered the picturesque Sojeongbang Waterfall, with its serene cascading waters. Unlike Jeongbang waterfall there is no entrance fee to climb the staircase down to the base of the fall which was equally impressive.
A little further along we came to the beautifully manicured gardens and pagoda of the Kal Hotel, adding a touch of elegance to the natural beauty of the trail.
As we walked the trails, we couldn’t help but notice the gigantic spider webs draped across the trees and branches along the path. I don’t know if it was just the season, but these webs were everywhere. Each web was a masterpiece, spun with precision and inhabited by spiders adorned in striking yellow and red patterns. Not wanting to get too close (or be webbed ourselves), we gave them a wide berth, just in case they were venomous. Thankfully, it seems the spiders have figured out that trails are high-traffic areas, so most webs are out of reach… or so we hoped!
The other wildlife we kept an eye out for? Snakes. A few trail signs warned us of their possible presence, and one day, we actually saw a small one slither across the path. I froze, waiting for it to finish its casual stroll, feeling slightly vulnerable in my open-toed shoes. Needless to say, I switched to trainers after that encounter — just in case I was destined for a surprise snake tango!
One thing you see not only along the trails but on Jeju in general are the Dol Hareubang which translates to “grandfather made of stone”.
These statues, with their distinctive facial features have become symbolic of Jeju’s unique culture and heritage. Each Dolhareubang has a gentle smile, large, rounded eyes, a wide nose, and a firm stance with hands resting over its belly.
Historically, Dolhareubang were believed to be protectors, warding off evil spirits and ensuring safety and prosperity for local villages. Placed at the entrances of villages and temples, these statues played a role similar to guardian figures in other cultures.
We walked a few kilometres of trail 5 after tagging it onto the completion of trail 6, glad we did as we passed by the scenic Soesokkak which is an estuary lined with cliffs of volcanic rock, popular for kayaking & traditional-raft rides and further along the coast we came across a dive school where a a group of women were learning to free dive at Mangjangpo harbour.
Jeju Island is renowned for its unique free-diving tradition, led by the Haenyeo, or “sea women.” These skilled female divers, many of whom are older women in their 60s to 80s, dive without any breathing equipment to harvest seafood such as abalone, octopus, seaweed, and shellfish. Using only traditional techniques and a single breath, Haenyeo can dive up to 20 meters (65 feet) deep and stay underwater for over a minute.
Historically, Jeju’s haenyeo were vital to the island’s economy, providing seafood for local communities. Their role became especially important during times of war and hardship, when men were often away. Women became the backbone of Jeju’s fishing economy, working together in tight-knit communities to harvest food from the sea.
Along the trails, you’ll come across statues and murals honoring these remarkable Haenyeo women. These artworks pay tribute to their strength, resilience, and cultural importance, capturing the essence of their unique free-diving tradition and their role in Jeju’s heritage.
The day we did trail 8 we only joined at the halfway mark and then headed back towards trail 7. However, the portions we explored had some truly standout features, making it our favorite so far.
We started the walk at Jungmun Beach which we were impressed with. This stretch of sand known for its unique, multi-colored shoreline and dramatic coastal scenery is surrounded by lush cliffs and greenery, making it feel secluded despite its popularity. It’s also famous for its excellent surfing conditions, drawing surfers from around the region.
Even though it was off-season, the area was still lively, with plenty of people out enjoying the trails and scenery. We followed the path, which led us past elegant hotels, picturesque marinas, and beautifully landscaped gardens, each adding to the charm of the walk. The path eventually brought us to Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliff.
These landmark natural rock pillars were formed by the cooling and contraction of lava from Hallasan Mountain when it erupted into the sea thousands of years ago. The result is a unique landscape of hexagonal, rectangular, and square stone pillars that look almost man-made, with some towering up to 20 meters high, the scenery was unforgettable.
Near the end of Trail 8, we were also pleasantly surprised to come across Yakcheonsa Temple, one of the largest and most beautiful Buddhist temples in South Korea. Built in a traditional architectural style inspired by Korea’s historic temples, it features a grand, multi-tiered main hall with intricate woodwork, colorful murals, and serene statues. The temple’s name, “Yakcheonsa,” translates to “Temple of the Medicine Stream,” named for a natural spring on the grounds that is believed to have healing properties.
Behind Yakcheonsa Temple is a small yet captivating cave temple called Yakcheon Cave. This hidden sanctuary is carved into the rocky hillside and the cave is adorned with statues and small offerings. Yakcheon Cave is associated with the same “medicine” theme as Yakcheonsa, as it is thought to have healing energy due to its location near the medicinal spring.
Each day, we covered countless miles exploring the trails and taking in the beautiful scenery, so by evening, we were more than happy to unwind at the hotel, relaxing and catching up on a few movies.
Jeju island is quite large so there was no way we would be able to explore all of it. To try and make the most the attractions we decided we would move and then explore further.
As you descend Seongsan Ilchulbong, you’ll come across a serene Buddhist temple tucked away near the back of the parking area. Almost hidden from view, this peaceful spot is worth a quick visit. After exploring the temple, you can continue down the stairs to the cove below, where you’ll have the chance to witness the traditional haenyeo female divers. Dressed in black wetsuits and armed with simple tools, baskets, and floats. A couple of times a day, they perform a captivating show for tourists, singing and chanting before entering the water. This unique glimpse into Jeju’s cultural heritage is both impressive and inspiring.
Moving to this part of island also meant that we could also walk the Olle trails along this coast which is exactly what we did over the next couple of days.
The landscape changed noticeably along Trails 1 and 2. The coastal sections were much flatter, and we found ourselves walking past peaceful beaches and fishing harbors. Along one stretch of the coastal road, we spotted rows of squid hanging out to dry, flapping in the sea breeze. It was hard not to laugh as we watched a woman unpegging each squid, just as if she were bringing in the washing —squid drying day, Jeju-style!
Trail 1 led us inland, past cute villages with colourful painted house with flower murals. Following on we climbed a few Oreums (small extinct volcanic cones) that rewarded us with stunning panoramic views. From here we could see Seongsan Ilchulbong, Hallasan Mountain towering in the distance, and Udo Island.
As we made our descent and began heading back toward the town, the path led us over bridges spanning what appeared to be lakes, giving the area an unexpectedly serene atmosphere. Although Seongsan isn’t home to true lakes, its volcanic craters and shallow tidal pools along the coastline create unique, water-filled basins. At certain times, especially during high tide, these basins fill with seawater, taking on the appearance of calm, mirror-like lakes.
The final stretch of our walk led us along Gwangchigi Beach, a wild and rugged coastline with calm, shallow waters that reflect the raw beauty of Jeju’s east coast.
In autumn, the beach has a serene atmosphere, popular with dog walkers and the occasional horseback rider who add to its quiet charm. Lining the beach are a few cozy cafes, perfect to relax and take in the tranquil views of Udo Island in the distance.
After another long walk, most of it uphill we were absolutely thrilled to finally catch a glimpse of the town. It had been a peaceful, quiet place during the evenings, due to the off-season, and we were ready to embrace the calm. The town has plenty of restaurant options, so it’s more of a “feed me now” destination, which suits us just fine. After fueling up, we happily retreated to the comfort of our hotel, ready to kick back, relax, and do absolutely nothing but enjoy the downtime.
We’ve certainly racked up some miles over the past week on Jeju, and it’s been fantastic — we love walking, and exploring on foot is one of the best ways to experience everything the island has to offer. Our time discovering the coastal areas has been rewarding, but now it’s time for one last shift in our journey. We’re heading back to Jeju City, which will put us conveniently close to the airport for our final days here. We’re looking forward to winding down, relaxing, and soaking in the last bit of Jeju before we take off for the vibrant capital, Seoul.
Seoul
In just a little over an hour, we arrived in Seoul from Jeju Island. Since it was a domestic flight, retrieving our bags and getting on our way didn’t take long.
The subway was the easiest way into the city. From the airport, we took the airport line to Seoul Station and then changed to another line for a couple of stops to Myeongdong, the district where I had booked accommodation for the next few nights.
Seoul is another big city, so choosing where to stay can feel like a bit of a minefield. However, after some research, Myeongdong stood out as a great district with excellent transport links and close proximity to many of Seoul’s attractions.
Navigating some of the larger underground stations feels like being dropped into an escape room and with multiple exits we must have made a wrong turn and found ourselves staring up at what can only be described as the Stairway to Heaven. There must have been a lift somewhere, but amidst the human river rushing through the station, we must have missed the signs.
Retracing our steps felt like too much effort, so we hoisted our luggage and began the climb of a lifetime. We just about made it—but the universe wasn’t done with us yet. Our hotel turned out to be up another hill, and when we finally reached it, we were given a room on the top floor of a building with no lift. Typical—this could only happen to us!
After a quick rest and feeling happy knowing it was all downhill from here, we headed out to explore our new surroundings.
Myeongdong is one of Seoul’s most vibrant and bustling districts. Known as a shopper’s paradise, its streets are packed with everything from global fashion brands to quirky local boutiques, and every other shop seems to be a Korean skincare haven offering endless beauty products.
A short walk brought us to the bustling shopping streets. It was late afternoon, and the air was filled with the irresistible aroma of street food from the many stalls setting up for the busy evening ahead. Skewered meats, crispy fried snacks, and sweet treats tempted passersby all along the way. After all that exercise lugging our heavy bags uphill, we were more than ready to dig in and savor some of these tasty delights.
We had to start with fried chicken, a must-have favorite we’ve come to love during our travels through Korea. With two cocktail forks in hand, we dug into crispy chunks of chicken smothered in a sticky, spicy sauce that packed a flavorful punch. The dish also included small pieces of rice cakes called Tteokbokki, which are like chewy little bites of pasta. At first, we weren’t sure, but now we’ve grown quite fond of these delightfully chewy morsels that complement the dish perfectly.
Satisfied with our savory feast, the tempting smells of sweet treats in the air were calling us next. We were tempted by giant, puffy cloud pancakes drenched in chocolate sauce, but instead, we went for something even more indulgent: Hotteok. These are like little bready pancakes stuffed with cinnamon sugar, and when they’re freshly fried, they’re probably the kind of naughty you don’t want to admit—but oh, they’re so worth it. Crispy on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside, these sweet little delights were a perfect end to our food adventure!
Full and content, we continued to wander the lively streets around us. It was every bit as vibrant as we’d imagined, with street performers singing to the bustling crowds. What was even more magical, though, was the growing sense of festivity in the air. In one of the squares, a beautifully decorated Christmas tree stood proudly, sparkling with lights. As we wandered further, we were drawn to a building shimmering with lights—it turned out to be a theater, boasting incredible window displays and large billboards showcasing festive Christmas scenes. It was the perfect thing to get us into the Christmas spirit.
Honestly, we’ve been feeling it since we arrived in Korea. The temperatures have been a rollercoaster, and with forecasts predicting a sharp drop next week, it feels like winter is finally creeping in. With the leaves falling and a chill in the air, seeing all the Christmas decorations made us feel ready for the season to begin! Although, we’ll be back on the beach for the big day!
Satisfied with our exploration for the night, we decided to wind down with a nightcap at one of the bustling bars. I’ve grown fond of the little bottles of Soju, Korea’s local liquor, so a few cheeky ones seemed like the perfect way to end what had already been a fantastic day. I made sure to stick with just one bottle, though, since we still had to make our way back up that darn hill!
Fresh from a good night’s rest, we were up and out, ready for a full day of exploring more of Myeongdong. The weather was on the cloudy side, with drizzle forecast for the afternoon, so we hoped to see and photograph some sights before the light changed.
Our first stop was Deoksugung Palace which is one of the “Five Grand Palaces” in Seoul, originally built in the 15th century during the Joseon Dynasty. It stands out for its unique blend of traditional Korean and Western architectural styles.
One of the palace’s most popular attractions is the Changing of the Royal Guard ceremony, which takes place at the main gate, Seogmung Gate. This colourful and dramatic event showcases guards dressed in traditional royal attire, providing visitors with a glimpse into Korea’s royal past.
We had no idea the changing of the guards was about to take place, so how fortunate were we to arrive just as the ceremony was beginning!
Within the palace grounds we were treated to a burst of colour from the stunning autumn foliage. The tree colours are amazing at this time of year, with a mix of red maple and yellow ginkgo trees, alongside silver grass that turns shades of red, orange, and yellow. It really is a spectacular sight!
After visiting the palace we decided to stay on foot and just wander the surrounding areas and just enjoy.
We came across a section of the old city walls which are a historic and significant part of the city’s heritage, originally built during the Joseon Dynasty (1396–1910) to protect the capital. Stretching over 18 kilometers, the walls once encircled the heart of Seoul, and today, portions of the structure remain intact, offering a glimpse into the city’s past.
One thing that stood out throughout the city was the abundance of art. Sculptures and installations were scattered all over the streets, blending traditional pieces with modern works. As we wandered, we stumbled upon some particularly intriguing ones, which led us to the Museum of History which seemed like the perfect spot to explore! We couldn’t spend hours inside (well, we could, but there’s a whole city to explore), so we gave ourselves a quick tour. Just next door was Gyeonghuigung Palace and we figured it was the perfect place to visit before heading back.
Unfortunately the palace is undergoing some significant renovation restoring much of its former grandeur. Originally built in the late 16th century during the Joseon Dynasty, the palace was used as a secondary residence for kings and royal family members. However, much of it was destroyed during the Japanese occupation and subsequent urban development.
While not as large or famous as Gyeongbokgung or Changdeokgung Palaces, Gyeonghuigung’s renovation has helped elevate its status as a historical site in Seoul, offering visitors a quieter, less crowded space to explore Korea’s royal past.
We’d had a full on day, which is exactly how we love to explore cities. I imagine every day here will be just as full, as we want to make the most of this fascinating place.
The next morning, we made our way to Seoul Tower, located on Namsan Mountain conveniently just behind our hotel. Since we were already halfway up the hill, we figured it made sense to tackle it first. There’s a lovely, well maintained pathway to the top if you’re feeling energetic or a cable car if you’d rather save your energy. On this occasion we opted for the cable car. Shane’s knees were still recovering from our Jeju hiking marathon, and the mere mention of more stairs had him looking at me like I’d suggested climbing Everest!
The cable car ride to the top is short and surprisingly smooth. Cable cars have never been my favorite thing, but this one wasn’t too bad. Once at the top, we were rewarded with stunning 360-degree views of the city. It really hit us just how enormous Seoul is, sprawling endlessly in every direction. Far off in the distance, we could spot the Lotte World Tower, a hard to miss landmark as it dominates the skyline.
The observation deck offers a mix of indoor and outdoor spaces, perfect for soaking in the scenery regardless of the weather. One area is filled with “Locks of Love” where couples leave colorful padlocks as a symbol of their love.
The colors of the autumn foliage were absolutely spectacular from the top. Considering it wasn’t planned, we couldn’t have picked a better time to visit.
We took the cable car back down and made our way into the heart of Myeongdong. For the rest of the day, our plan was simple, wander the district in any direction and see where it led us. We weren’t disappointed! Every turn revealed something fascinating, impressive modern buildings nestled among historic temples, more striking art installations, beautiful tree-lined avenues, and clear blue skies.
As we explored, we passed by the walkway along the Cheonggyecheon Stream, a picturesque 11-kilometer stretch lined with greenery, inviting seating areas, and artistically designed bridges. It looked like the perfect escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. Maybe, if time allows, we’ll return to walk it another day.
Our walk had led us through Myeongdong into the Jongno district where we arrived at Gwanghwarun Square which is a vibrant and historic open space surrounded by iconic landmarks and framed by stunning views of Gyeongbokgung Palace and Bukaksan Mountain. The square is a hub of cultural activity, featuring statues of two of Korea’s most revered figures: King Sejong the Great and Admiral Yi Sun-sin, a naval hero.
The square is elegantly designed, featuring fountains and manicured gardens that we strolled past on our way to the imposing gates of Gyeongbokgung Palace. It was just after 5 pm, and with the palace closing at 6 pm, we thought we might squeeze in an hour of exploring since we’d made it all the way there.
However, as we arrived, the large gates were being closed for the day. It didn’t bother us too much as an hour wouldn’t have done it justice anyway. We decided to save the visit for another day, giving ourselves plenty of time to fully immerse in the history and beauty of the palace.
A growing trend in Seoul, especially among Instagrammers, is renting the traditional Korean dress called the Hanbok. There are plenty of rental shops, particularly near the palaces. It’s a phenomenon we’ve noticed at nearly every historic site we’ve visited on our travels. In Seoul, there’s even a bonus, it’s free admission to the palaces if you’re dressed in a Hanbok.
Even though the palace had already closed, the area was buzzing with groups decked out in vibrant Hanboks, striking their best “historical drama” poses against the stunning palace backdrop. For us, we’ve turned this into an art form, we like to think of them as unsuspecting extras in our own photo shoots. While they’re deep in their dramatic reenactments, we’re busy snapping away, creating our own little masterpiece. Who needs a costume when the perfect props are everywhere?
Pleased with the photos we’d captured, we decided it was time to head back. By now, dusk had settled, and the square was transforming. The lights illuminated the palace and statues, making them look absolutely magnificent against the darkening sky. OMG, we’d never make it back at this rate as every corner seemed to grab our attention. What a place!
We were quickly falling in love with Seoul. I know we’ve said this about other places before, but this city has now taken the top spot. From what we’ve seen so far, it’s going to be hard to beat!
So, we sauntered back. We could have taken the metro or hopped on a bus, but we were still soaking in the city’s ambiance as the skyline lit up and day faded into night. We didn’t want the day to end, and there was no rush to get back.
As luck would have it, we stumbled upon a vibrant nightlife street in the Jongno district. We found an inviting bar with little tables and chairs spilling onto the street—perfect for some people-watching. This was exactly what we needed: a chance to rest our feet for an hour.
We couldn’t have chosen a better spot. The bar quickly filled up, and it turned out there was a baseball game on, pitting Korea against Japan. Koreans, like the Japanese, are passionate about baseball, and the atmosphere inside was electric. Every time Korea scored, the crowd erupted in cheers, their excitement spilling into the street.
It was the perfect way to end a perfect day. Tomorrow, we’re moving to another district. In Seoul, it doesn’t really matter where you stay since the transport system is so efficient, but we like to mix things up. We’re not moving too far this time, but as they say, a change is as good as a rest! Plus, it has a washer and dryer—more method to our madness, ha!
A quick bus ride the following morning brought us to our new place. As usual, we dumped our bags and were back out exploring in no time. Funnily enough we headed back in the direction of our previous hotel to visit Namsan Park. It’s the same park that leads up to Seoul Tower, but since we’d taken the cable car on our last visit, we hadn’t explored the park itself.
Namsan Park is home to sections of the city’s old walls and offers plenty of pathways perfect for a leisurely stroll, with beautiful views of the city along the way. The park was also ablaze with colour, as the autumn foliage burst into vibrant shades of red and gold which is such a breathtaking sight!
Earlier in the day, while on the bus, we passed by Sungnyemun Gate, one of Seoul’s most iconic landmarks and a symbol of Korea’s rich history. Built in the 14th century during the Joseon Dynasty, it served as the southern gate to the ancient walled city of Seoul. Since it wasn’t far from the park, we decided to head there next.
The gate’s traditional wooden architecture, perched atop a sturdy stone base, stands in striking contrast to the modern skyscrapers surrounding it. Although it was damaged by a fire in 2008, restoration efforts have brought it back to its former glory. Unfortunately, the weather took a turn, and with drizzle in the air, our photographs didn’t quite do it justice.
With rain looking like it was in for the rest of the day we decided to visit the War memorial museum which would keep us out of the rain and was walking distance from our new place.
The War memorial is an impressive and sobering museum dedicated to Korea’s military history, with a particular focus on the Korean War. The museum is housed in a grand building surrounded by statues, memorials, and military equipment, including tanks, planes, and ships displayed in the outdoor exhibition area.
Inside, the museum features extensive exhibits that walk visitors through Korea’s military history, from ancient times to modern conflicts. The Korean War galleries are especially impactful, offering detailed insights into the war’s causes, major battles, and the personal stories of those who lived through it.
The following day blue skies had reappeared, which was perfect as today we planned to visit the Bukchon Hanok Village which is a picturesque historic district in Seoul, offering a glimpse into Korea’s past with its beautifully preserved Hanok (traditional Korean houses).
We also knew Bukchon would be filled with tourists donning traditional attire, striking poses for those all important Instagram photos. But, as we’ve said before, we don’t mind, they take over the most scenic streets and end up becoming the stars of our own photos.
When we arrived, we were surprised to find it wasn’t as busy as expected. It turns out that on Sundays, many of the side streets are off-limits to visitors. Since Bukchon is still a residential area, many of the hanoks remain private homes, while others have been converted into cultural centers, guesthouses, tea houses, and craft workshops.
Of course, when we reached one of the more popular streets, it was still bustling, with plenty of people dressed in traditional hanboks adding to the charm.
The village didn’t disappoint. Wandering through Bukchon’s narrow, winding streets feels like stepping back in time. It’s a fantastic place to experience traditional Korean architecture up close, with its elegant tiled roofs, wooden beams, and serene courtyards.
Our next stop of the day as it was right next to the village was Changdeokgung Palace which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the most stunning and well-preserved palaces in Seoul. Built in 1405 it served as a royal residence and remains a prime example of traditional Korean architecture harmoniously blending with its natural surroundings.
The palace is divided into several sections, including the Main Hall, residential quarters, and the secret garden. The Secret Garden, with tranquil ponds, pavilions, and meticulously landscaped greenery, is a highlight, offering visitors a peaceful retreat and a glimpse into how royalty once relaxed away from public life.
Being such a popular attraction, there must be a limit on how many visitors can enter the Secret Garden and unfortunately, it was fully booked for the day. This meant we could explore the palace but not the gardens.
The palace itself was enormous, so it didn’t matter too much, especially since our legs probably wouldn’t have managed the extra walking around the Secret Garden anyway!
After yet another eventful day we decided we would end the day at one of Seouls nightlife areas in Itaewon. Another bonus of our new hotel was that we could walk to this area.
The walk took us back past the War Memorial Museum, which looked stunning illuminated at night—an unexpected bonus that gave us the chance to snap a few more photos. After a short stroll, we soon reached Itaewon.
I don’t think we were fully prepared for how vibrant the area around Itaewon was. The nightlife spills across both sides of the main road, but there’s one street in particular that’s jam-packed with bars and clubs. It gave off serious Ibiza vibes and it wasn’t even the weekend, yet the place was still buzzing. I can only imagine how lively it gets on weekends and during the height of summer. If you’re looking for fun bars and quirky eateries, this is definitely the place to be. We even spotted a few Turkish kebab shops, which is always a sign you’re in a proper drinking district—nothing like a good old doner after a few drinks! Ha!
We stumbled upon a fantastic Irish bar with an unbeatable happy hour and a killer playlist! The tunes were a perfect mix of old and new, complete with music videos. The 80s tracks were a total blast from the past and best of all, there wasn’t a hint of K-pop in sight!
With still so much to see and do in Seoul the next day took us to the Dongdaemun district to the Donchemin History and Culture Park. The Donchemin building is a striking, futuristic structure that stands out in the city’s more traditional landscape. With its sleek, space-age design, the building features clean lines, curved surfaces, and metallic finishes that give it a distinctly modern and innovative appearance. Its unique architecture contrasts sharply with the surrounding historical and cultural sites.
The building is a symbol of Seoul’s growing embrace of contemporary design, offering a visual representation of the city’s blend of tradition and modernity. It’s was architecturally a great place to photograph with its unusual, almost sci-fi style.
Inside visitors can learn about the development of Seoul and its evolution over the centuries through informative displays and exhibitions. The park also includes a peaceful walking path, ideal for leisurely strolls, as well as open spaces where you can relax and take in the surrounding views.
From ultra modern we then walked a short distance to the historical landmark which is Heunginjimun gate also known as Dongdaemun gate. Built in 1396 it served as one of the eight gates of the city’s ancient fortress walls, designed to protect the capital from invaders.
Heunginjimun is an impressive structure, showcasing traditional Korean architecture with its sturdy stone base and elegant wooden upper levels. In addition to its historical significance, Heunginjimun is also famous for its beautifully preserved design. The gate has been carefully restored over the years, and its location near modern shopping centers creates a fascinating contrast between the old and new aspects of Seoul.
Just across the road, you can see the old city walls as they climb up the hill. From here, you can join one of the city wall trails. While this particular trail isn’t very long, it offers incredible views as you ascend. At intervals, the skyline changes, providing stunning perspectives. From so high up, the view of the gate, with skyscrapers and Seoul Tower on Namsan Mountain in the distance, is impressive. As you continue climbing, the view expands, and the towering Lotte World Tower comes into sight in the distance, adding to the panoramic scene.
The colours of the trees along the trail were amazing, with the last of the leaves falling as autumn gave way to winter. The trail stretched as far as Naksan Park, which sits in front of a beautiful, hilly backdrop. If we’d had more time, we would have strolled around the park, but daylight was fading, and we had one last place we wanted to visit. So, we headed back down the hill as the light began to fade.
The place we wanted to visit was the Ihwa Mural Village which wasn’t far down the hill from then end of the trail. The village is famous for its street art, murals, and installations that adorn the walls of its homes and alleyways. We just about made it and were glad we did, as this was another quirky find in the ever-surprising Seoul. Originally, Ihwa Mural Village was a declining neighborhood, it was transformed into an artistic hotspot in 2006 as part of the “Naksan Art Project,” where artists painted murals and created sculptures to revitalize the area. As the village is situated on the hillside, it offers beautiful views of Seoul, especially at sunset.
We couldn’t have planned it better if we tried—arriving just as the sun dipped low, casting the sky in a warm, golden glow. Along the way, we passed a string of cozy, charming cafes that offered a perfect view of the sunset. The idea of sinking into a seat with a glass of wine and watching the day fade was almost too tempting to resist. But deep down, we knew that if we gave in, our momentum would be gone, and so would the rest of the day. So we reluctantly pushed onward, determined to keep the adventure going… for now.
It ended up being another amazing, full-throttle day in Seoul, and it wasn’t quite over yet. As dusk approached, I suggested to Shane that we return to the Donchemin building, as I had read that they illuminate it at night, and I could imagine how spectacular it would look. We agreed to walk back, and it turned out to be another decision we were glad we made, as we also saw that the Heunginjimun gate was lit up as we descended the hill.
When we reached the Donchemin building, it didn’t disappoint. The structure was illuminated periodically with boxes of light that seemed to pulse, bringing to life a design reminiscent of a UFO. To heighten the futuristic vibe, an alien-like statue stood in front of the building. The entire scene felt like something straight out of a sci-fi film.
The city just keeps blowing our minds—it’s officially claimed the number one spot for sure. Even on our way back to the subway, we stumbled upon yet another beautiful temple, this time illuminated to show off its nighttime beauty. Surrounded by towering skyscrapers, it almost felt like the temple was giving a cheeky wink to the buildings above, saying, “Hey, you up there, I’m still just as beautiful down here and I’ve been here a lot longer than you have!”
So, after all these jam-packed sightseeing days, you’d think we would have exhausted all the sights, but no sir, there’s still plenty left on my to-do list.
By now, you probably noticed that we are always on the move, so we decided to switch districts one last time—gluttons for punishment I know, lugging heavy bags around a busy city. But honestly, it’s never a big deal. This time, we’re moving a little further to Hongdae, which is one of the liveliest districts for shopping, entertainment, and, more famously, K-pop. We were never going to miss exploring this district, but it’s much easier to just move there and save the hassle of commuting back and forth. Put it simply: walking distance is what we like!
Next on our list was the famous Gangnam district. Everyone’s familiar with the hit song “Gangnam Style,” with its catchy beat and quirky dance moves, which specifically references this affluent area known for its luxury, wealth, and high-end lifestyle.
Since the Lotte World Tower was just a few subway stops from Gangnam, we decided to make it our first stop of the day.
The subway exits directly under the tower and wow you get neck ache just looking up at this beast of a building! This iconic skyscraper is the tallest building in South Korea and the 5th tallest in the world.
Completed in 2016, this towering structure is part of the larger Lotte World complex, which includes shopping malls, hotels, offices, and an amusement park. The tower itself reaches a height of 555 meters (1,819 feet) and features 123 floors.
One of the highlights of the Lotte World Tower is its observation deck, located on the 117th and 118th floors, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the city, the Han River, and beyond. The deck features a glass-floored section for those daring enough to look straight down at the city below. The tower also boasts a luxury hotel, fine dining restaurants, and a variety of high-end retail shops.
Given Shane’s fear of heights, we decided to skip the observation deck and instead enjoy a much more relaxed stroll around Seokchon Lake nearby, where we could fully appreciate the sheer scale of this magnificent building.
Now it was time to head to Gangnam. We actually got off the subway a couple of stops early at the Olympic sports village and stadium. Seoul hosted the Olympics in 1988 and this event marked a significant moment in South Korea’s history, as it was the first time the country hosted the Olympics. The games were widely regarded as a milestone in South Korea’s modernisation and global recognition. So for that reason alone we had to see it.
We walked the rest of the way into Gangnam. The district itself is quite large, so I compiled a small list of places of interest, with the first being the Starfield Library. You might wonder, why a library? The Starfield Library is a stunning and expansive public library located in the COEX Mall. Known for its striking design and modern architecture, the library features towering bookshelves that stretch up to 13 meters (about 43 feet) high, creating a dramatic atmosphere, with over 50,000 books.
Starfield Library has become a cultural and architectural landmark in Seoul, blending modern design with a love of reading, making it one of the city’s must-see destinations. It is especially photogenic, with the towering bookshelves serving as the perfect backdrop for photos (especially for Instagrammers posing against the shelves as if deeply enthralled in a novel). The library had also been decorated for the festive season, further enhancing its enchanting ambiance.
Next on the list which was only a short walk from the library was the famous Gangnam style statue. After its release in 2012 with 4.6 billion views Gangnam district became really famous worldwide but also in South Korea. So much that they made this statue in “honor” of the song.
The bronze sculpture is modeled after the signature hand motion from Psy’s mega-hit song, and once you stand on the stage below the hands, the song ‘Gangnam Style’ plays. There was a queue of people all taking turns to get photos under the statue, and it was quite entertaining.
Moving on to get through the list we next headed to see a bit of culture, this being the Bongeunsa Temple. This Buddhist temple with a history dating back to 794 AD features beautiful traditional Korean architecture, including the main temple hall, pagodas, and statues, all set against the backdrop of modern skyscrapers that create a unique blend of old and new.
One of the highlights is the large, impressive statue of the Buddha, which stands in the temple courtyard. Bongeunsa is also known for its tranquil atmosphere, beautiful gardens, and the chance to participate in temple stay programs, where visitors can experience Buddhist traditions firsthand.
The song ‘Gangnam Style’ famously references the affluence and luxury associated with this area of Seoul. Our next stop at K Star road perfectly captured that vibe.
K star road is dedicated to K-pop culture and lined with cute, oversized bear statues called Gangnamdoll each representing famous K-pop groups like BTS, EXO, and Girls’ Generation.
This vibrant street is not only a tribute to Korea’s music idols but also a hotspot for luxury shopping. While strolling along, you’ll find flagship stores of top designer brands alongside boutique shops and trendy Korean labels.
K Star led us to our final destination of the day to Rodeo street, often compared to its namesake in Beverly Hills. This chic and bustling area is known for its upscale fashion boutiques, trendy cafes and art galleries.
Beyond shopping, the street has a vibrant energy, with street performances, pop-up shops, and plenty of spots perfect for people-watching. Whether you’re looking to splurge on the latest fashion or simply soak in the stylish atmosphere, Rodeo Street is quintessential Gangnam at its finest.
Well, after another mammoth day, I can honestly say we’ve been well and truly Gangnam Styled-not literally, of course, but it sounds good.
Where we had moved to was on World Cup Road, aptly named because the World Cup Stadium, built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup, was just at the top of the road. It’s one of South Korea’s largest stadiums, so Shane was keen to check it out. I wasn’t as enthusiastic, not being a huge football fan, but I was happy to tag along.
The stadium isn’t just for football fans—it hosts concerts, exhibitions, and cultural events. There’s even a shopping complex and a cinema within the stadium complex (if I’d known that from the start, I’d have been there with a hop, skip, and a jump in my step—ha!).
Shortly after our visit to the stadium, the weather took a turn for the worse, and to be honest, it was a blessing in disguise. We decided to head back to the hotel and relax for the rest of the day. I think you’d agree we’ve bulldozed through Seoul—no complaints, but a bit of downtime was definitely welcome.
We’d been in the Hongdae area for a few days now, but hadn’t yet explored. It’s said to be a vibrant, youthful district known for its dynamic energy, trendy shops, art culture, and buzzing nightlife. Located near Hongik University, a school famous for its arts programs, the area is a hub for creative expression and indie music.
It was just a short walk away so after an afternoon of relaxing, what could be better than grabbing a few beers and see if the area lived up to its reputation.
The area is also famed for its street performers, particularly in the evening. You’ll find singers, dancers, and musicians putting on free shows in the open-air spaces around the area. This was the first thing we witnessed as we arrived at what I would consider the main street. There were several performers singing and dancing—it reminded us a bit of Market Street in Manchester on a Saturday afternoon—ha!”
We explored this Main Street which was also lined with fashion stores and many eateries. It most certainly was a busy vibrant street with lots of neon.
We strolled around for awhile but couldn’t seem to spot any bars. A quick Google search pointed us in the right direction, and before long, we stumbled upon a cluster of lively streets packed with bars, many boasting enticing happy hour deals. This was exactly what we were looking for—a perfect spot to settle in and enjoy ourselves for the next couple of hours.
With our time in Seoul coming to an end, there was one place we knew we had to return to-Gyeongbokgung Palace. On our previous visit, we had arrived too late, just as it was closing. This time, the conditions were perfect, clear blue skies, and the temperature had risen slightly over the last few days, climbing back into double figures.
Gyeongbokgung Palace, often referred to as the “Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven,” is one of South Korea’s most iconic landmarks. Built in 1395 it served as the royal palace and remains a symbol of Korean history, culture, and architectural beauty.
The palace showcases traditional Korean design, with its elegant pavilions, intricately painted wooden beams, and stone courtyards. The main gate, Gwanghwamun, is a striking introduction to the grandeur within.
As expected, the Instagrammers were out in full force, dressed elegantly in traditional hanboks. A group of young women caught our eye, sitting gracefully under a sprawling weeping willow in the palace gardens. They were carefully arranging their dresses with such poise and precision—it felt like a scene straight out of Bridgerton. Ha!
We spent a few hours wandering through the palace and its sprawling grounds, taking in everything from the grand halls to the tranquil lake pavilion. While all the palaces we’ve visited have been incredible, what sets Gyeongbokgung apart is its breathtaking setting. Framed by mountains in the background, it feels like a step back in time. Standing there, gazing at the palace with the mountains as a backdrop, it’s almost impossible to believe that just behind you lies a bustling modern city.
Amongst there grounds are also the National Palace museum and National Folk Museum that offer deeper insights into Korean history and culture through their exhibits.
We had a great day and were so glad we made time to return. With one last evening in Seoul, we weren’t ready for the adventure to end just yet, so we decided to head back to Itaewon—to the Irish bar with the killer playlist. Well, it would’ve been rude not to!
It turned out to be another great decision. The bar was in full swing, the tunes were just as fantastic as last time, and a few drinks to toast, ‘Cheers, Seoul, you’ve been fab!’ made for a perfect ending to an unforgettable trip.
Tomorrow, we’re off to Taiwan, a destination that has captured our curiosity. With its stunning landscapes and vibrant culture, we can’t wait to embark on this new adventure.
“Be sure to explore our Video Reels in the Video section on the homepage”.
