Midlifers Go East
Kaohsiung.
With a flight time of 3 hours from Seoul to Kaohsiung in southern Taiwan we were looking forward to getting back in the sunshine. We did enjoy the colder weather for a short time and at least it was dry but hotter climates are still our favourite.
When arriving in a new country, there are a few things we need to sort before we can move on-cash, transport cards, cup of coffee…check! It usually goes in that order.
Taiwan is another country with a great transportation system, buses, trains and metros are in most major cities. We were able to take the metro straight from the airport into Kaohsiung City centre which was where we would be staying for the next few days.
Kaohsiung is Taiwans second largest City and is home to many skyscrapers such as the 248m Tuntex Sky Tower and is known for its diversity of parks. It’s also the main port city with the largest and busiest harbour in Taiwan.
It was late in the day when we arrived and with daylight fading we just headed out to explore the immediate area and hopefully have our first taste of Taiwanese food.
Luckily just across the road from the hotel was a bustling pedestrianised street lined with fashion and electronic stores but also a good variety of street food carts-perfect!
One popular street food here is green onion pancakes, and it didn’t take us long to spot a street cart frying up these tempting treats. They’re served either plain or stuffed with a variety of fillings, such as minced pork or cheese. We decided to try one with pork and another plain. Similar to Indian paratha flatbread but infused with spring onions, they were freshly fried, steaming hot, and slightly crispy—a real winner. The pork-filled pancake was just as delicious as the plain one.
Next we came across a guy selling another type of stuffed bread, but this time it was more like a pancake. We chose one filled with chicken and sweetcorn to share. The stall had a little seating area with some plastic chairs so he told us to take a seat and he would bring it to us when it was ready-which he did, but only with chopsticks.
It was so funny-what a mess we made trying to use them! We haven’t yet mastered the technique, and imagine how difficult it was trying to pick up little kernels of sweetcorn-it was near impossible. So, when no one was looking, we sneakily used our fingers-ha!
The next day we decided to walk the short walk towards the harbour. There are some futuristic buildings around the harbour front especially the Kaohsiung Music venue at Love Pier. This impressive building stands dominant due to its amazing architecture and the Centre provides a core venue for popular music performances.
We continued past the venue and onto ‘Pier 2 art centre’ a former warehouse district which has been made into a unique open art space, providing artists and students with an environment in which to express themselves, and has already become Kaohsiung’s most popular cultural spot.
Similar to when we were in Korea, art seems to play a big part here, with art installations and murals found all over the city. It’s extremely quirky blending industrial heritage with modern creativity.
Pier 2 stretches along the waterfront basin, and you can cross over to the other side, home to shops and restaurants, via the impressive Great Harbour Bridge. This striking swing bridge puts on a daily show at 3 PM, demonstrating its opening and closing mechanism. We were thrilled to catch the spectacle, especially since we hadn’t planned for it, but it did take a surprising 30 minutes to fully open and close—longer than we had anticipated. You can walk to the far end of the basin to get around to the other side, but having already covered miles on foot, we decided to wait and watch as the bridge slowly swung back into place at what felt like a snail’s pace.
The following day we took a short bus ride to the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas which are an iconic landmark in Kaohsiung. Located on the edge of Lotus Pond, these twin seven-story towers are intricately designed and brightly painted, with one guarded by a dragon and the other by a tiger. Visitors traditionally enter through the dragon’s mouth and exit through the tiger’s, symbolising turning bad luck into good fortune.
I’m not sure if you’ve been keeping up with our adventures, but unfortunately, these iconic landmarks were closed for renovation, partially hidden under scaffolding. This seems to happen to us far too often! However, it wasn’t a total disappointment, as we soon discovered that these two famous temples weren’t the only highlights around Lotus Lake. In fact, there are several other remarkable temples in the area, equally impressive—so our visit turned out to be well worth it after all.
As we arrived at the first temple, we encountered a group of schoolchildren who were likely on a field trip. Spotting us, the western tourists—an uncommon sight in this area—they got excited, eagerly greeting us and wanting to chat. Playfully, they asked us to repeat a phrase in Taiwanese that sounded a bit like “wash and go,” though it clearly wasn’t. Whatever it was, hearing us repeat it sent them into fits of laughter. They urged us to repeat it again, and each time it had them giggling uncontrollably. It didn’t seem offensive or rude, as their teacher was there with them. In fact, she joined in the fun and even asked if she could take a photo of us with the children, which we happily agreed to.
After our little entertainment, we continued along the lakeside path, which led us to the Spring and Autumn Pavilions. These two pavilions, standing side by side, represent the contrasting seasons of spring and autumn and are beautifully adorned with intricate decorations.
The pavilions are grand structures, featuring traditional Chinese architectural elements like curved roofs, colorful carvings, and detailed murals. The Spring Pavilion symbolises renewal and vitality, while the Autumn Pavilion represents tranquility and reflection.
One of the most striking features is the massive serpent sculpture that winds its way around the pavilions. This serpent is part of the dramatic entrance to the pavilions, where you can walk through the open mouth of the serpent to reach the interior.
As we continued along the path, we heard the sounds of singing in the distance. A little further ahead, we stumbled upon a group of locals enjoying a lively afternoon of karaoke. They took turns performing on a small stage, with a cheerful audience watching. I absolutely love witnessing moments like this—it was clear they were having an amazing time.
When we reached the far end of the lake, we discovered the stunning Kaohsiung City Temple of Confucius. This majestic temple boasts traditional Chinese architecture, with sweeping rooflines, intricate wooden carvings, and a spacious courtyard. It is beautifully surrounded by landscaped gardens, creating a serene atmosphere.
As you stroll around the peaceful lake, it’s hard to believe that the bustling city is just a short distance away. The tranquil atmosphere here feels worlds apart, offering a serene escape from the urban rush.
We spent the entire day leisurely strolling around the lake and exploring the numerous temples. As usual, we couldn’t resist taking far too many photographs, but it’s something we love to do—so, hey-ho!
Back in town, we decided to continue the theme of temples and visit Sanfong Temple as night fell.
The temple was built in 1684 during the Qing Dynasty dedicated to the god Mazu, the protector of fishermen and sailors. Known for its intricate architecture, the temple features traditional Chinese designs with elaborate carvings, vibrant paintings, and impressive sculptures.
The temple is beautiful at any time of day, but it’s even more enchanting at night, with the sight of hundreds of red lanterns creating a truly captivating scene. When lit, they cast a warm, glowing atmosphere. The vibrant red symbolises good fortune and prosperity, enhancing the temple’s spiritual significance. As they sway gently in the breeze, the lanterns create a mesmerising sight and with the smell of incense burning in the air, it was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen.
Strolling back towards our hotel we passed by the Formosa Boulevard metro station. Not only is it an important transportation hub but also a famous landmark known for its stunning ‘Dome of Light’.
The Dome of Light is the largest glass art installation in Taiwan and is located in the station’s main hall. The dome features vibrant, colourful glass panels designed by Italian artist Narcissus Quagliata, depicting themes of life, earth, and the universe. It has become one of the most iconic and photographed spots in Kaohsiung.
The light show didn’t end there as we made our way to ‘Central Park’ which is a large urban park in the heart of the city. As it’s the festive season the park is transformed into a festive wonderland with vibrant Christmas display’s. The park is adorned with dazzling lights, large Christmas trees, and themed decorations, creating a magical atmosphere. With lit paths and the trees covered in hundreds of sparkling lights it was a beautiful sight. The park was busy with families taking evening strolls and excited children posing for photos. It certainly added to our festive spirit.
The next day, we decided to head back down to the harbour front, then walk in the opposite direction, which took us past Glory Pier and Kaohsiung’s tallest building, the 85 Sky Tower, also known as Tuntex Tower. The skyline here is quite striking. While the Tuntex Tower may not be the most visually appealing, the architecture of the Kaohsiung Port Cruise Terminal is truly impressive, designed to reflect its maritime surroundings. Additionally, the Exhibition Centre, with its sleek tubular design, adds a modern touch to the city’s vibrant and artistic landscape.
At Glory Pier on the harbour front, we witnessed something truly unique. People were taking speedboat rides in boats that had been converted to resemble supercars. There were replicas of Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Aston Martins, and Bentleys, all floating on the water. It was quite amusing to see these “supercars” cruising along the harbor—definitely not something you see every day!
Our walk along the harbor front filled up the morning, and with plenty of time still ahead of us, we decided to take a bus to explore another artistic spot—Weiwuying Street Art Village.
Originally part of a military base, the area has been transformed into a creative hub, blending local history with contemporary art. The village has welcomed illustrators and street artists from around the world who have created a kaleidoscope of colour, creating amazing murals on many of the buildings. Along with a variety of art installations and sculptures, it truly is a unique place.
What I loved as we explored the streets was the authentic, lived-in charm of the area. It’s still a residential neighbourhood, with clothes hanging from the balconies, giving it a homely feel. On one street, a group of local women, clearly friends, were enjoying lunch under a ground-floor canopy. A steaming pot of stew simmered on an outdoor stove, and their laughter filled the air as they clearly savoured an afternoon together. It was simple moment that captured the essence of local life.
Talking of food, Kaohsiung is renowned for its street food markets. These bustling markets are scattered throughout the city and provide an incredible variety of dishes. We decided that evening we would visit the ‘Liuhe Night Market’ as it was walkable from our hotel and it’s one of the most famous markets.
The market buzzed with energy, packed with locals and tourists alike, all weaving through the maze of stalls. The vendors were selling everything from local specialties like stinky tofu and beef noodle soup to fried chicken, grilled squid, bubble tea, and savory pancakes. As for the stinky tofu—nope, not a chance! With a name like that, it wasn’t coming anywhere near my lips—ha! Instead, I happily devoured the savoury pancakes, which were absolutely delicious. To top it off, we washed them down with some refreshing Taiwanese beer, so all in all, happy days!
With just one day left in the city, we decided to visit Cijin Island, a popular getaway just a short ferry ride from Kaohsiung. Known for its laid-back vibe and coastal views, it felt like the perfect way to round off our trip.
We caught the ferry from Gushan Ferry Terminal, where boats shuttle back and forth all day. The ride itself takes less than 10 minutes, offering great views of the harbour along the way. There is also the Cijin Cross Harbour Tunnel which allows cars and scooters to drive directly to the island.
On our walk to the terminal, we stumbled upon a vibrant row of brightly painted houses along the seafront. The splash of bold colours transformed the area into a cheerful, picture-perfect spot—proof of how a little creativity can completely brighten up a place!
Over on the island we were met by more brightly painted houses as we made our way up the hill to Cihou lighthouse which is a historic and picturesque landmark that offers panoramic views of Kaohsiung Harbour and the surrounding coastline. Built in 1918 during the Japanese colonial period, the lighthouse is a blend of classic Western and traditional Asian architectural styles, giving it a unique charm
Heading back down the hill from the lighthouse led us past Cihou Fort which was built in 1875 to defend Kaohsiung harbour from naval attacks. The fort’s well-preserved stone walls, arched doorways, and cannon placements are a reminder of its strategic importance in Taiwan’s history.
Just below the fort lies one of Cijin’s unique attractions, the ‘Tunnel of Stars.’ Originally a military tunnel, it has been transformed into a beautifully illuminated passage that cuts through the rock, offering visitors a kaleidoscopic experience of lights and art. The walls are adorned with murals depicting vibrant sea life, while hundreds of colour changing LED lights line the ceiling and walls. Once through the tunnel, you’re greeted with a view of the ocean crashing against the rocks.
After the mesmerising experience of the tunnel, we made our way to the beach. Cijin Beach is one of the highlights of Cijin Island, offering a long stretch of soft sand and stunning ocean views. We were pleasantly surprised at how nice it was, lined with palm trees. Despite the perfect beach weather in the mid-20s, the beach was surprisingly quiet. There were plenty of people strolling along the boardwalk that stretches along the beach.
In the distance, we could hear the sound of music. And then—like a mirage in the desert—came the sight of a beach bar, inviting us in. This time, it wouldn’t disappear into thin air, and we definitely weren’t going to walk past without stopping for a drink!
We only stopped for one drink, but with the sun shining so beautifully and the relaxed vibe, it was tempting to stay all day. However, we decided to be good and continue exploring. The beach path runs the entire length of the coastline, so we kept walking. Along the way, we couldn’t help but notice the electric rickshaws zooming by—they’re a popular way to get around, with rental spots all along the waterfront.
Colorful art installations line the beachfront, with one of the most popular being the Rainbow Arch, also known as the Rainbow Church. Despite its name, it’s not actually a church but rather an eye-catching, Instagram-worthy hotspot that draws visitors with its vibrant colours and striking design.
After wearing our feet out again, we decided it was time to head back to the ferry before the sun went down. The road leading back to the ferry terminal is called Cijin Old Street, so we made sure to walk that way. It’s a vibrant street filled with food stalls and souvenir shops. We couldn’t resist one more pork-filled onion cake before catching the ferry—it would have been rude not to!
We arrived back at Love Pier on the harbour front just as the sun was beginning to set. The timing couldn’t have been better—especially with the Kaohsiung Music Venue, illuminated in red and green lights, standing out beautifully against the sunset. The yachts gently bobbed in the water, adding to the tranquil scene. This was our last day in Kaohsiung so it was the perfect way to wrap up an unforgettable day and a wonderful introduction to Taiwan.
Nanwan - Kenting National Park.
We arrived in Taiwan without a set itinerary, embracing the freedom to explore as we went. The only plan in place was to fly into Kaohsiung in the south and depart from Taipei, the capital, in the north. Everything in between was left open, allowing us to discover the country and shape our journey as we learned more about its unique character and attractions.
Having enjoyed our day on Cijin Island, it got me thinking. I hadn’t initially considered Taiwan as a beach destination, but after seeing how beautiful the beaches could be, I decided to do some more research.
Taiwan boasts a stunning coastline, and one of its most popular destinations is Kenting National Park—a tropical paradise with pristine beaches, lush forests, and vibrant coral reefs. It sounded perfect! Located just a couple of hours south of Kaohsiung, I discovered there was an express bus that runs directly from the city to the national park, making it an easy trip to plan.
So, we decided that a few days away from the city to chill and relax sounded perfect. We didn’t plan on doing much while we were there—just soaking up the vibe and enjoying a well-earned rest.
The bus journey was great! It departed just outside the main high-speed rail station in Kaohsiung. Transportation is so affordable here, making it easy to get around. This comfortable coach ride cost only £3.50, and they even gave us a bottle of water and a pack of tissues—random, but a nice touch!
We decided to stay in South Bay—Nanwan, one of the first bays you reach upon entering Kenting National Park. It boasts a long stretch of golden sand, popular for water sports, and is lined with a few beach bars—a winning factor for us, as we love a good beach bar!
Kenting Town, with its bustling main street and vibrant night market, was just a couple of miles down the road, making it easy to visit while still enjoying the laid-back vibe of Nanwan.
The bus dropped us off directly outside our beachfront hotel—perfect! Bags were quickly dropped, and with no time to waste, we were off in search of those beach bars. We probably sound like a couple of party animals, but really, we’re just big kids who’ve arrived at the seaside and are eager to breathe in the fresh sea air, preferably with an ice-cold beer in hand! We figured we should make the most of our surroundings, and what better place to enjoy it than right here?
As it was the weekend, the area was quite busy, with plenty of people enjoying the beach or having lunch, creating an amazing vibe. There were also a few Western faces—a rare sight recently. Happy hour was in full swing, always a bonus, and we’d just been informed that live music was about to start, so things were getting better by the minute.
We couldn’t get over how lovely the beach was. The sea looked inviting, but we decided to save that for another day. Today, we would just enjoy the moment and the music.
Since we were only here for a few days, we didn’t want to overdo it, but we also felt the urge to explore a bit. So, the next day, we decided to walk into Kenting Town. On the way, we passed a beautiful stretch of beach, lined with a few large hotels.
Kenting Town is a charming colourful place, famous for its bustling Main Street, lined with shops, cafes, and street food stalls, as well as its lively night market. It was too early in the day for us to see it in all its glory, but we could see the street carts closed up. Still, we could imagine how the area would come to life when the sun went down, with the smell of street food wafting through the air.
In addition to the main Kenting Beach, there’s a smaller bay just around the corner that’s equally charming. You can access it by descending some steps from the main road, but there’s also an intriguing route through a cave on the beach. The cave leads into a hotel and shopping area, which is actually situated just across the road from the beach.
The only thing about the area was that, in general, it was really quiet. We weren’t sure if it was out of season, but with tropical weather year-round, there didn’t seem to be any reason for that. It didn’t bother us, but we couldn’t help but feel for the locals, who seemed to be facing a lack of tourists.
Shuttle buses run up and down the Kenting coast and peninsula, and scooter hire is also popular. The roads are very quiet, so if there was ever a time to rent a bike, this would be the place. However, we prefer using our legs, so we strolled back to South Bay along the palm tree-lined coastal road. We weren’t in a rush and were happy to walk, enjoying the scenery and the sea breeze.
The beach at South Bay is beautiful, and the sea looks calm and inviting, but I’d read about an even better beach in the area called Baishawan Beach which is said to be one of the best beaches in Taiwan. It was a bit farther to walk this time, so we decided to take the coastal shuttle bus. It was a pleasant ride as we meandered along the coastline toward Baishawan.
Baishawan Beach, also known as White Sand Bay, gained international recognition by serving as a filming location for the movie “Life of Pi,” standing in for a tropical Mexican shoreline.
We were blown away by how beautiful the beach was, with the sea so blue and crystal clear. It was almost deserted; I think I counted only nine people along the entire stretch of pristine sand. There was a sign indicating the best area for swimming, as stronger currents were present in the far left and right parts of the bay.
There are a couple of beach restaurants at one end where you could get refreshments, adding to the convenience without detracting from the beach’s tranquil vibe.
We first walked along the bay barefoot, enjoying the shore! It felt fantastic to be back on a beach, especially one like this, where a swim was only minutes away.
Despite the low number of people, there was a lifeguard on duty. So, we decided to settle where he could see us—figuring we’d give him something to do, ha!
The sea was perfect—slightly cold when you first entered, but once your body adjusted, it was incredibly refreshing. I wouldn’t have wanted it any warmer. It deepened quickly, so you didn’t have to go far out—no need to worry the lifeguard!
We spent ages just lolling in the perfectly calm sea; it felt so nice. Back on the sand, it was lovely to dry off and relax in the sunshine, which was also at the perfect temperature, before heading back into the ocean. The rest of the day followed in that order. It had been ages since we’d had a proper beach day.
We spent our last evening back at the beach bar across from our hotel. Unlike our first visit, it was incredibly quiet. During our previous visit, it was the weekend, so it made sense that it would be livelier. Fortunately, there were still a few people around, so we had a nice conversation with a French couple who were enjoying a pre-Christmas two-week holiday, as they could take a direct flight from Paris.
We also chatted with the bar owner, asking her about the quietness. She explained that, unfortunately, the area isn’t promoted enough to foreigners as a tourist destination, which is a shame. It’s so underrated that you feel they’re missing an opportunity. We also spoke to several expats who have made it their home, and they absolutely love it. I hope that in the future, tourism picks up because it truly is a beautiful place.
We were only staying a few days, but if we’d stayed longer, there would have been plenty more to explore in the national park, including numerous hiking trails through lush forests, limestone caves, and scenic cliffs.
For those who prefer water-based adventures, Kenting also offers boat trips where you can enjoy snorkeling and diving. Some tours even explore coral reefs or take you to remote beaches that are otherwise difficult to reach by land.
There are even monkeys—and you know how much we love those! Unfortunately, we had to give our cheeky friends a rain check this time.
Next, we head north, continuing up the west coast to the city of Tainan, Taiwan’s oldest city. Once the capital during the Qing Dynasty, Tainan is known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and incredible culinary delights—we’re definitely looking forward to experiencing it all.
Tainan.
The journey to Tainan was relatively straightforward. We began by taking an express bus back into Kaohsiung, heading for the high-speed rail station. From there, we boarded the high-speed train, which took us to Tainan in just 15 minutes. However, the high-speed rail station in Tainan is located a bit outside the city center, so we needed to take another bus to reach our hotel. Despite the transfers, the process went smooth and it’s not as if we are in any rush.
By the time we settled into the hotel—which took about five minutes, as we’re now seasoned professional travelers (ha!)—we were off exploring.
The hotel was close to ‘Shennong Street’ which is one of the most charming and historic streets in Tainan. Known for its narrow alleys, traditional shophouses, and nostalgic atmosphere, the street offers a glimpse into the city’s past.
Many of the old buildings have been beautifully preserved and repurposed into boutique shops, cafes, art galleries, and quirky little stores. The street and storefronts are adorned with lanterns, which comes alive at night creating an enchanting atmosphere.
When we arrived, there was still a touch of daylight, making it lovely to wander along the street and explore. Narrow side streets branched off, adorned with lanterns and street murals. I love how abundant art is here in Taiwan—it truly showcases the country’s creativity.
Halfway down the street, we came across a beautiful temple with intricate carvings of dragons and tigers and traditional decorations. The strong scent of incense filled the air, wafting from large burners near the temple entrance-one of my favourite smells!
As we wandered the streets, we discovered more little alleys where locals had their doors open, revealing glimpses of daily life—cooking, watching TV, or just relaxing. It offered a look into their homes—though just a side glance, as I wouldn’t want to seem like I was prying.
We were casually strolling down a street when I reminded Shane that, while we’re here, he really needed a haircut—yes, I do tend to nag him about it when it’s getting out of hand. I often joke that he looks like a mix between a few celebrities you definitely wouldn’t want to resemble. My teasing usually does the trick, and before I know it, he’s sprinting to the barber—ha!
What was strange was that just as I said this, lo and behold, there was a barbershop right there—must have been my psychic instincts!
There was only one customer, so I asked the lady if she could cut Shane’s hair. Although there was a language barrier, I pointed to Shane’s hair and made scissor motions, which seemed to be understood. She then waved us inside.
The shop felt like a step back in time to the 1940s, with large retro swivel chairs. A lady, who had been sitting on her phone, turned out to be another hairdresser, so Shane didn’t have to wait. I took her seat and happily watched the process.
The Taiwanese are such lovely, warm people. Even with the language barrier, you can still piece together their kind words and friendly gestures.
The other guy in the shop, who was getting his hair cut, spoke a little English and was curious about how we had arrived and our travels. He welcomed us to Taiwan—we’ve encountered that a few times now; the people here really are lovely.
The shop gradually filled up, and before long, all four chairs were occupied. It seemed like other hairdressers appeared out of nowhere—I’m still not sure where they came from. A friendly couple sat next to me and began chatting in their language. I smiled and said, “Sorry, I don’t understand,” but they continued talking to me cheerfully. I just nodded, smiled, and went along with it, enjoying their warm, welcoming energy.
With Shane freshly groomed, we waved farewell to our new friends and decided to walk back toward Shennong Street, as it was now dark and we knew the street would be aglow with lantern light.
The street was indeed lit with the magical glow from the brightly painted lanterns, giving it an even more enchanting look than earlier, so we retraced our steps up and down the street, taking the opportunity to photograph the scene.
Tainan is renowned for its vibrant street food scene. As Taiwan’s food capital, Tainan boasts a mix of traditional and innovative street food vendors, often set up along bustling night markets or on the side of charming streets.
Night markets are an essential part of the city’s lively street food scene, offering a blend of delicious food, games, and vibrant local culture. The most famous night markets are the Wusheng Night Market and the Garden Night Market. Wusheng Night Market opens on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, while the Garden Night Market is open on Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays.
It just so happened to be a Wednesday, so we decided to head over to Wusheng Night Market in search of some tasty food.
The market was large and open-air, and it reminded me a bit of a bustling car boot sale back home, but with the added excitement of a fair—colorful lights, lively music, and the calls of vendors enticing customers with their offerings.
The air was filled with a mix of irresistible aromas and, let’s be honest, some less pleasant ones—making it both delicious and off-putting at the same time. We simply steered clear of the less-than-pleasant smells and dug into some tasty treats.
It was nice to see a few Western faces at the market, as we do seem to be a minority. That said, we never feel intimidated. Taiwan is considered to be very safe for both locals and visitors and is regarded as one of the safest countries in Asia for travellers.
Walking back from the market, the proof was in the pudding as we wandered down dark alleyways lit only by lanterns. Children still playing ran past, greeting us with a cheerful ‘hello.’ One alley led to one of the city’s many temples, where a group of men seemed to be preparing for a religious festival or cultural parade. One man was dressed in a vibrant, intricate Taiwanese god costume, complete with a large gold headdress that added a majestic touch. I turned around, not wanting to impose, but they called me back and welcomed me to take a video. More children arrived, waving hello. We felt truly immersed in the culture, surrounded by the warmth of the local people.
What an amazing day! Our bellies were full, we’d immersed ourselves in local culture, Shane’s hair was done—life was treating us pretty well!
The next day, we set off on foot toward the Anping district. We could have taken a bus, but we decided to get our morning steps in instead. The walk across town wasn’t the most interesting, but at least it got the blood pumping.
Anping is one of the oldest districts in Tainan, home to several iconic landmarks. Our first planned stop was the Anping Tree House, a former warehouse which has been overtaken by sprawling banyan tree roots. However, as we approached, we got sidetracked by a shaded, decked pathway leading toward the ocean. Drawn by the serene view, we decided to explore this route first, planning to circle back to the tree house later.
We were glad we did, as it gave us the chance to see the beach and coastline. On our way back, we passed by the harbour and even stumbled upon a charming Dutch windmill, along with a museum featuring an old London bus and a classic red British telephone box.
Anping’s history is deeply tied to the Dutch, who played a significant role in shaping the area during their colonisation of Taiwan in the 17th century.
We arrived back at the tree house which was originally a warehouse for the Tait & Co. Merchant House, a British trading company established in the 19th century. The Anping Tree House is a stunning example of nature reclaiming man-made structures. Over the years, sprawling banyan trees have overtaken the building, with their roots and branches weaving through the walls, ceilings, and floors. We’d seen something similar in Cambodia at the temple of Ta Prohm. It’s fascinating to witness and I can’t help but imagine what this transformation would look like on a time-lapse, centuries of growth condensed into moments.
Happy with our exploration of the old warehouse we then headed the short distance to Fort Zeelandia now known as Anping Fort. Built by the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century, this historic site showcases Taiwan’s colonial history.
It’s only a small fort where you can explore the ruins, climb the observation tower for a view of the district, and learn about the region’s past in the small museum.
The observation tower is a relatively modern addition, contrasting with the ancient ruins of the fort below. It serves as a symbol of the area’s evolution while preserving its historical significance.
It didn’t take us long to explore everything the fort had to offer, so we headed across the road to Anping Old Street. Lined with street food vendors, souvenir shops, and traditional crafts, this bustling street, with its narrow alleys, feels like a step back in time. As one of the first streets developed in Taiwan during the Dutch colonial era, it is rich in history and character.
We decided to take the bus back to the hotel—our legs had done more than their fair share of work for the day, and we weren’t sure they could carry us any further! Ha!
he following day, we took the bus to venture a little farther out and visit the Chimei Museum. This world-class museum is renowned for its stunning architecture and its diverse collection of art, historical artifacts, and musical instruments. Admission is only a few pounds, but we decided not to go inside, as we were there primarily to explore the beautiful grounds and admire the building itself with its striking European-style architecture. Amusingly, it reminded us of the Trafford Centre back home—ha! (Jokes aside, that also happens to be an impressive building.)
They spent billions building this place, complete with grand fountains and the Olympus Bridge, which spans the wide lake to the main museum building. The bridge is adorned with statues of Greek gods and mythological figures, making it a focal point of the museum’s outdoor area.
The museum courtyard featured a towering Christmas tree, adding a festive touch. To enhance the Christmas spirit, carols played through strategically placed speakers, filling the garden with cheerful tunes. It felt a bit out of place, though, as I sought shade from the hot sun while listening to Christmas music!
Whilst Shane was busy taking photos I was busy on the look out for local wildlife. I spotted a rather large iguana basking in the sun and then over at the lake I found it not only teeming with lots of colourful fish but also lots of terrapins- so that was me happy for the day.
After the museum, we caught the bus back into town, and our next stop was the Blueprint Cultural and Creative Park. I love all these quirky art installations and creative districts we’ve seen throughout Taiwan. The artistic creativity here really stands out.
Originally a traditional industrial area, the site has been transformed into a cultural hub, featuring exhibitions, art installations, and a variety of creative businesses. The park is known for its charming, low-rise buildings with blueprints of the original industrial structures painted on the walls, hence the name “Blueprint.”
Quirky murals are scattered throughout the park, and the little streets were decorated for the festive season with fake snow and Christmas decorations. Filled with cute boutique shops and cafes featuring inviting window displays, we found it all very charming!
Over the weekends the park hosts its flea market which offers a unique blend of local crafts, vintage items, and artistic creations. The flea market is a vibrant part of the park, where visitors can browse through a variety of eclectic and creative products, from handmade jewellery to quirky home decor and artwork.
What another great day we had! Tainan is such a fascinating place with so much to see and do. Just walking the streets here is amazing, and we love immersing ourselves in the culture. As you stroll along the rows of Chinese shop houses, many with open kitchens for their bustling little restaurants, you hear the sound of woks clanging over hot flames, and steam rises from stacks of bamboo baskets filled with delicious dumplings. It’s a sensory overload, and we are embracing every moment of it.
With just one day left we thought we would check out one of the cities green spaces so we headed to Tainan park. Located in the heart of the city, Tainan park it’s one of the oldest and most popular parks. With serene walking paths, large banyan trees and a picturesque lake with gazebo. The park is known for its historical significance, with structures dating back to the Qing Dynasty.
It was lovely to see so many people enjoying the park, with some practicing Tai Chi while others relaxed on the grass, picnicking under the shade of the large trees. It offered a peaceful retreat, a serene oasis in the heart of the bustling city.
I was in my element as I spotted even more terrapins! In the center of the lake, there was a circular base for the fountain. As the fountain wasn’t in use, it had become a popular basking spot for the many terrapins that called the pond home. There were so many of them scattered around the base, with some even perched on top of one another.
After exploring the park we wandered the bustling city streets, taking in the atmosphere. Our wandering led us to another artsy street filled with murals, quirky shops and restaurants. Close by we stumbled upon Chihkan Tower which I looked up on the spot and found that the building is one of the cities historical landmarks. Originally built by the Dutch during their rule of Taiwan in the 17th century it was once known as Fort Provintia. Unfortunately it was undergoing renovation so was completely covered in scaffolding so we were unable to see it.
All in all, we had a great day, but we didn’t want it to end there. Since it was our last evening, we decided to wrap up our stay by visiting the Garden Night Market, as we hadn’t been to this one yet.
I suppose you could say that if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all—they’re quite similar, offering a variety of delicious treats (and some not so appetising), with a few off-putting smells lingering in the air—ha! Even with the strong, sometimes overwhelming scents, I could still wander through these markets for hours.
This one was just as packed as the previous market, with stalls selling a mix of food, clothing, and games. The game stalls added a nostalgic charm, reminding me of fairgrounds back home. There were balloon-shooting games with darts or guns, ring-toss challenges, and fishing games where people used small lines to catch toy fish or even live prawns. Children and adults alike seemed to enjoy the old-fashioned fun.
It was the perfect way to end our stay in Tainan. I know we’ve said it before, but Taiwan continues to surprise us on every level. Next, we’re heading a little further north to Taichung, Taiwan’s second-largest city, known for its blend of modern attractions, cultural sites, and beautiful natural surroundings.
Taichung.
All aboard the high-speed train! We were on our way, embarking on a short but fast journey that took just 45 minutes to the city of Taichung.
Similar to Tainan, the high-speed rail station in Taichung is located a little outside the city. However, with frequent and plentiful buses, we were on our way into the city in no time.
We decided to stay in a district close to the popular Fengjia Night Market. The area around the market is filled with small alleyways, and that’s exactly where we were staying—right in the heart of it all. The hotel messaged us beforehand to say they would meet us, as it was quite tricky to find, tucked away down one of the narrow streets.
Thanks to great communication, the hotel staff guided us seamlessly from the train. The guy messaged us the name of a nearby bar and arranged to meet us there. True to his word, he met us and led us to the hotel, which was just around the corner—a quirky hidden gem. We probably would have struggled to find it on our own, so it was very thoughtful of them to meet us.
We were excited to explore the market, so as usual, we quickly dropped off our bags and headed out in search of food!
We didn’t have to walk far, as the market was literally just a one-minute walk away. It starts in the late afternoon and gets steadily busier as the evening progresses, so it was the perfect time to explore without the heavy crowds.
As we wandered the street, eyeing up what each cart was cooking, Shane spotted a stall grilling a variety of local sausages—so that became our first purchase. Next, we came across our favorite onion pancakes being fried up. However, we decided to resist for the time being—not because we were thinking about the calories, but because of the long queue forming along the street for these delicious snacks.
The market covers a vast area—we’d never seen so many street vendors in one place. In addition to food, the market is great for shopping, offering an array of affordable goods, from clothing and accessories to electronics and souvenirs. It’s the perfect spot to hunt for bargains and quirky finds.
Gaming is also hugely popular here, with old fashioned activities like balloon darts, fishing games, and claw machines. We were amazed by the sheer number of shops filled with claw machines. I used to think they were a con until I met Shane, who in his younger days used to love showing off his skills at winning prizes.
We were a little surprised by the use of bow and arrows to aim for prizes. I can tell you that back home, they definitely wouldn’t be allowed for fear of someone getting hurt—but here, it’s different, and I’m sure they don’t have mishaps—hopefully not!
Continuing our hunt for more tasty treats, we came across a guy selling samosas. I know it’s not exactly a traditional local delicacy, but if you know me, you’ll know I can never resist the bold, aromatic flavors of Indian cuisine. So naturally a chicken samosa was next on the list, and it certainly didn’t disappoint!
We moved from street to street, as vendors seemed to have spread out across most of the surrounding areas. We prefer the street food in Taiwan over other countries we’ve visited because it offers more that suits our palate. We’re not saying that other countries don’t have amazing street food—of course, we know they do. It’s purely a matter of personal preference.
One stall that piqued our interest was run by a guy cooking what we later learned were ‘Pepper cakes’ in a clay oven. We asked what they were filled with, and the lady serving us explained that they contained pork—perfect! We were eager to give them a try.
OMG, these quickly became our favorite street food! These aromatic, crispy pastries are filled with a seasoned pork mixture that’s juicy and flavorful, with just the right amount of pepper—hence the name—but it doesn’t overpower the other ingredients. Steaming hot and fresh from the oven they were absolutely delicious!
We shared just the one, in case we wanted to keep on grazing, but we would definitely each have one next time. I think we are going to like it here, one things for sure we will be well fed!
The following day, we decided to explore the city on foot to walk off all the excess calories from our night market grazing frenzy the evening before!
We had a general direction in mind: to walk toward Taichung Park. The walk was supposed to take an hour and a half, but we were sure we’d come across other sights along the way to explore.
It wasn’t the most scenic walk, but it was certainly interesting! I enjoy looking into all the different stores and small businesses we pass along the way. Every other shop seemed to be selling bubble tea, which isn’t surprising since Taichung is where it was invented.
The only thing slowing down our walk was the constant battle with the red man at every road crossing. Honestly, there were so many of them! Sure, they have countdown’s but when the number flashes 60 seconds or more, it’s like entering a zone of wasted time. You wait so long you practically drift into a trance, and when it finally changes you’re caught off guard and momentarily forget how to put one foot in front of the other–ha!
About halfway into our walk, we came across an impressive building that turned out to be the Museum of Natural Science. The museum was set within lovely landscaped grounds, and directly across the road were the botanical gardens. We took a leisurely wander around the museum’s gardens, admiring the beautiful planting, which featured towering palms and ancient banyan trees. Then we crossed the road to explore the botanical gardens.
We got sidetracked at the pond near the main entrance, as it was teeming with colourful fish and terrapins. One by one, the terrapins started heading in our direction, thinking we had food—bless them! Unfortunately, we had nothing to offer.
The gardens were a tranquil oasis, filled with a variety of plants, native and tropical and its centrepiece was the large greenhouse, a striking glass dome that houses a rainforest ecosystem complete with a waterfall and exotic plants.
In the basement of the greenhouse we found ourselves beneath the pond that sits above. From here we could get an up-close look at a fascinating variety of large fish, graceful rays gliding through the water, and even a small shark.
We were already quite impressed with what we had stumbled upon, and we hadn’t even reached the park yet!
It didn’t take us too much longer to reach the park. Taichung Park is one of the oldest parks in Taichung. Established in 1903, it covers about 20 hectares and is a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city. The park is known for its beautiful lake, where visitors can rent paddle boats, as well as its charming pavilions, walking paths, and lush greenery.
The park also had its fair share of art sculptures, which seems to be a given here! It was lovely to wander through such a green space in the heart of a big city. We were treated to more wildlife as we watched squirrels playfully taking treats from a group of people. I met a guy walking his two parrots and a girl with a pet snake. Oh, it was all happening at the park! My highlight was a lovely lady singing to a group who was thoroughly enjoying her sweet voice—just as I was!
After the park, we had a quick look at the map to see if there was anywhere nearby worth checking out. Not too far away was the Cultural Heritage Park, which sounded promising, so we headed over there.
Originally a factory area, it has been transformed into a space that showcases the city’s rich cultural heritage through art exhibitions, performances, and various community events. It wasn’t exactly what we envisioned. I had hoped it would be more visual, but overall, it was more educational, which is fantastic. We just thought there would be more to photograph, which is what we enjoy doing most.
Anyway, another good day was had by all. The one thing we weren’t doing, though, was walking back. No way were we enduring any more of those road crossings. We were all ‘red-manned’ out for the day!
The following day, we decided to explore the modern side of the city. Just a 20-minute stroll from our hotel, we reached Maple Park, a charming green space with a serene lake, nestled amidst the towering buildings of what’s known as the Central District. A nice surprise was seeing the graceful black swans that call the lake their home—such striking bird’s with all black plumage and red beaks.
After we’d explored the park we continued onto the National Taichung Theatre, which is a striking piece of modern architecture. The theatre stands out for its innovative, curvaceous design. The building’s white exterior creates a modern and futuristic feel.
From the theater, we followed the tree-lined avenue alongside Charlotte Park, which sits between modern apartments and office blocks. Joggers and dog walkers were out in force, enjoying the shade the park provides. The green spaces continue along this stretch of road, leading to Shakeng Park, home to an amazing temple built under an enormous banyan tree. This path then extends all the way to Civic Park and the government buildings.
The Central District was a complete contrast to the area where we were staying. With its sleek skyscrapers, the area represents the city’s rapid development and urban growth. It’s a city that’s still growing; we lost count of the number of new high-rise buildings under construction. Central district really is the ‘new city,’ with little of the old architecture remaining.
After another full day of pounding the pavements and battling with the ‘red-man’ at every crossing, we finally returned to our new favourite street market, more than ready to get some food and hopefully a drink.
Taiwan is a bit different when it comes to getting a drink. There aren’t that many bars where you can just pop in for a drink—it’s more about dining, with alcohol usually served alongside a meal. But for us, taking advantage of the street food and eating on the go, all we really wanted was a place to rest our feet and enjoy a well-earned beer.
Now, I’m not saying there aren’t bars, but the few you come across don’t tend to open until 9 p m. or later, and they don’t get busy until much later in the evening, way past our bedtime!
Just as we were about to write it off, we came across a Japanese bar right on our doorstep. This one opened early, so at least we could enjoy a couple of drinks and still get a reasonably early night! On an even bigger plus side, they sold 2-pint beers at a fair price—beers as big as your head, which gave me an even bigger headache the following morning. Self-inflicted, of course!
Our time in Taichung was nearing the end. We had one day left so decided to check out the rainbow village which has become a unique tourist attraction. Originally a small military dependents’ village, it was transformed into an artistic wonderland by a retired soldier named Huang Yung-Fu, affectionately known as “Grandpa Rainbow.” Faced with the demolition of the village, Grandpa Huang began painting the walls, streets, and buildings with vibrant murals of animals, people, and whimsical patterns. His artwork not only saved the village but also turned it into a beloved cultural landmark.
It’s a small place, making it easy to explore and admire the artwork packed into every corner. The area was bustling with locals and tourists, with groups of young girls making videos against the Instagram-worthy backdrop of vivid colours and playful designs. What I found particularly sweet was that even the bus shelter right outside was painted in rainbow colours.
It was the perfect spot to spend our final day, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. As evening fell, we wanted to make the most of our last night, so we headed back to the Central District to experience it illuminated. We retraced our steps from our visit during the daytime and it most certainly didn’t disappoint.
Maple Park was softly illuminated, with the lake mirroring the surrounding buildings as their reflections danced on the water. The pathways were gently lit, creating a serene atmosphere. The black swans were hard to spot in the darkness, but as we approached the lake, we could still see them gliding gracefully in the moonlight.
The theater was impressively lit, with its curves accentuated by soft, glowing lights that created a futuristic yet elegant silhouette against the dark sky. I love how a skyline transforms when buildings light up. Festive decorations added to the magical ambiance, and lights we hadn’t noticed during the day made a delightful appearance at night.
That brought our time in Taichung to a wonderful close. We felt we’d explored much of what the city had to offer. Our next destination is also our final one in Taiwan—Taipei, the capital. Are we saving the best for last? Only time will tell!
