Explore Thailand: Round two. - Midlifers Go East

Chiang Rai.

The journey from Coron to Thailand began with a smaller propeller-driven aircraft to the island of Cebu. Unfortunately, there were no direct flights available, but I enjoy flying, so I was more than happy to spend the day in several airports. From Cebu, we took a flight to Bangkok, where we spent the night in an airport hotel before catching our third flight the following morning to Chiang Rai, which is located in the far north of Thailand, near the borders of Laos and Myanmar.

All the flights were great—smooth and on time—so I quite enjoyed our journey.

We were happy to be back in Thailand for several reasons. First, the food, of course—I’m obsessed! And in the north, there will be so much to see, allowing us to pack our days delving into the rich history and magnificent temples. Another great thing about being back in Thailand is having access to ‘Grab,’ the taxi app. It’s just so convenient and saves a lot of hassle.

When we landed in Chiang Rai, I booked a taxi within minutes to pick us up directly outside the arrivals hall, and soon after, we were on our way to the hotel, which, fortunately, was only a 15-minute ride away.

The small hotel we’d chosen was lovely—tucked away on a quiet street but just a short stroll from town and all the sights. It was a colourful place, filled with lots of quirky ornaments. A bonus was the communal kitchen, which we could use in the morning. They supplied bread, eggs, tea, and coffee, leaving it up to guests to whip up their own breakfast. Well, if you know me, you’ll know I was in my element—more than happy to cook for us. Shane, how do you like your eggs in the morning?

We chose to start in Chiang Rai because it’s so far north and also for its temples—one of which is the White Temple. I’d seen many pictures of this magnificent temple over the years, so I was looking forward to seeing it in person. But before that, we had a town to explore.

I was feeling the place straight away—there was so much familiarity from our first visit to Thailand. 7-Eleven convenience stores stood on nearly every corner (though they’re all over Asia), and it was nice to see Boots the chemist, offering a little reminder of home.

Fruit was plentiful and cheap—a small thing, perhaps, but in some places, it has been ridiculously expensive. More importantly for me, there were hundreds of restaurants and street food stalls. I literally cannot wait to try lots of different Thai dishes, especially here in the north, where there are several regional specialties. I love chili, so that won’t be a problem here.

So yes, we were off to a good start.

Whilst exploring the town we decided to walk over to the clock tower which is one of the city’s landmarks, designed by Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, who also designed the White Temple. This striking structure features intricate golden and blue details, making it a visually impressive piece of art.

The town was a lively place—lots of bars, a street bazaar, and places advertising live music. There was definitely enough here to keep us entertained after a day of visiting the temples.

As well as the famous temples in the area, the town itself has more than its fair share of temples. Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) is one of the most historically significant temples in Chiang Rai. It originally housed the famous Emerald Buddha (now in Bangkok). They are all equally beautiful with such intricate designs.

Our first evening didn’t disappoint. We had a few drinks, and I was able to get a cider, which I always enjoy. I think it must have been a year since I’d last had one, so it was very much welcomed. For dinner, we got to try the northern specialty ‘Khao Soi,’ a rich coconut curry noodle broth garnished with crispy fried noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, and lime. We also tried the flavourful northern Thai sausage, laden with spices and lemongrass. Both were utterly delicious—I’ve arrived in food heaven!

The next morning, we were off to visit the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), which is situated about a 25-minute drive outside of town. To add to the adventure, we decided to take the local bus. The bus terminal was only a five-minute walk from our hotel. When we arrived at the station, I asked at the information desk where to go, and the lady advised that the bus was parked at number 8. There were already a few people on board, so we hopped on. It was good to see a few fellow travellers, who I assumed were also heading to the temple. We just managed to get seats on the back row, alongside a local man and a mountain of parcels. That’s one of the reasons we like taking local transport—there’s always something amusing to see. The side back door was also tied open, so we’d have a nice breeze during the journey—and we weren’t wrong! As we approached the intersection near the temple, a young guy who’d also taken our 50p fare told us this was our stop and pointed across the road in the direction we needed to go. It was actually quite obvious, as you could see the temple immediately.

As we walked the short distance to the temple, nothing quite prepared us for its magnificence. It’s not an ancient temple; it was only built in 1997. The White Temple is one of Thailand’s most stunning and unique temples. Designed by artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, it’s a contemporary take on traditional Buddhist temples, blending religious symbolism with surreal and modern artistic elements.

It literally takes your breath away with its striking white exterior, and the embedded mirrors make it shimmer in the sunlight—you definitely need your sunglasses!

You cross the ‘Bridge of Rebirth’ leading into the temple that represents the journey from worldly temptations to enlightenment, with outstretched hands symbolizing human suffering.

Unlike traditional temple art, the murals inside feature unexpected elements like superheroes, movie characters, and global events, symbolising modern struggles. Unfortunately, you aren’t allowed to take photos inside.

It’s a fascinating place, and it doesn’t stop with the temple. The grounds are an extension of its surreal and symbolic artistry, blending traditional Thai temple elements with imaginative sculptures and structures—even the odd severed head dangling from the trees—scary!

Also within the grounds, there’s a striking golden building known as the Golden Ganesha Temple, surrounded by water teeming with colourful fish. This temple showcases intricate golden designs, creating a vivid contrast to the predominantly white structures of Wat Rong Khun.

In fact, there are a couple of golden buildings within the temple complex, one of which is actually the restroom. Despite being just a restroom, the structure is incredibly ornate, featuring intricate gold carvings and elaborate decorations—easily one of the most beautiful restrooms I’ve ever seen.

We explored for hours and took far too many pictures—it was one of those places. When we felt like we’d truly exhausted it, we headed back to the intersection to wait for the bus. After 10 minutes with no sign of it, we took the easy option and ordered a taxi, which arrived in a matter of minutes—see, that’s why we love the Grab app so much!

That evening, we ended up at the Irish bar—yes, every town has one. There was live music, cider (of course), and we got chatting to a lovely young couple who were well-travelled, full of fun, and had lots of interesting stories. It was hard to drag ourselves away, but we were starving, and it was getting late. Luckily, a few places were still serving food, and it ended up being, once again, an amazing supper!

The following day we decided to visit the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) which is another relatively recent addition completed in 2016. The temple is famous for its striking blue exterior, which features intricate designs and vibrant murals depicting Buddhist themes, as well as other cultural symbols. The vivid blue color, combined with golden accents, creates a stunning visual contrast that makes the temple stand out.

We decided to walk to get some steps in, as it was about an hour’s walk. About 20 minutes into the walk, Shane realised his camera was almost flat, so we did an about-turn, had to charge it for a while, and started all over again—so we were definitely getting our steps in—ha!

When we finally arrived at the temple we were equally as impressed as with the white temple. The detail in these structures is truly amazing.

The interior of the Blue Temple is equally impressive, with a large white Buddha statue at the center, surrounded by blue and gold decorations.

Again, we took far too many photos—it was hard not to. But it’s what we love doing, and with subjects as impressive as this, it’s hard to drag your eye away from the lens.

another good day was had and with all the steps walking back we had most certainly earned supper.

We decided to revisit the Clock Tower later that evening, as in the evening, the Clock Tower comes alive with a vibrant light show that occurs every hour. The tower is illuminated with changing colours and lighting effects.

We weren’t expecting anything mind-blowing—and it wasn’t! But it was nice, and hey, at least we saw it!

Over another amazing supper, we were told that we should visit the Black House (Baan Dam). It sounded like a place we’d be interested in visiting. It was about a 25-minute ride out of town, so the following day, we decided to go.

The Black House is a fascinating and unique art museum created by Thai artist Thawan Duchanee. It is not a traditional temple or house, but rather a collection of over 40 black wooden buildings scattered across a large property. The buildings are designed in a traditional Thai style but are painted in dark, almost black hues, giving them an eerie yet captivating atmosphere.

Inside the Black House, you’ll find a wide array of sculptures, artwork, and artifacts that reflect the artist’s personal vision and creativity. The collection includes animal skins, bones, and other raw materials, which might give the place a slightly macabre vibe. These elements are meant to explore the relationship between life, death, and nature, and the concept of mortality in Thai culture.

It was different, I’ll give it that. We liked the architecture—a stark contrast to the serene atmosphere at the White Temple—but interesting all the same. The artist dedicated 50 years of his life to creating the Black House.

We’d only spent the morning at the Black House, so to make the most of our day, we took a taxi to the Big Buddha Temple (Wat Huay Pla Kang), famous for its massive 25-meter-tall white statue of the Goddess of Mercy, Guanyin. This towering statue, located on top of a hill, offers spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.

As well as the Big Buddha, one of the highlights is the temple’s seven-tiered pagoda, which is beautifully adorned with intricate details. There is a lift to take you to the top of the Big Buddha, but we didn’t use it. Instead, we chose to climb the stairs to the top of the pagoda, where we were still able to enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding area especially as it overlooked the Buddha.

It was our last evening in Chiang Rai, and we were lucky that it was Saturday, so we were able to visit the night market. This lively, colourful street market takes place every Saturday evening in the center of Chiang Rai. Located near Sang Khom Market on Phahonyothin Road, it’s one of the best places to immerse yourself in the local culture, try delicious street food, shop for handmade crafts, and experience the vibrant atmosphere of the city.

The food section is particularly popular, offering an array of Thai snacks, grilled meats, fresh fruits, and traditional dishes like khao soi (curry noodles) and som tam (papaya salad). We shared a sweet potato snack, but we didn’t want to ruin our appetite, as for our last evening, we wanted to sit down and enjoy a proper meal—like every night, ha!

So that brought our short time in Chiang Rai to an end. We’re happy that we got to see a variety of attractions best suited to us. Tomorrow, we are heading to Chiang Mai, which is one of Thailand’s most popular destinations in the north. Filled with history, culture, nature, and food, I already know we will love it!

Chiang Mai.

Getting to Chiang Mai from Chiang Rai was easy and affordable. We took the Green Bus from Terminal 1 Bus Station, which was just a short walk from our hotel. The journey, on a comfortable, air-conditioned coach, took just under four hours.

We were staying in Chiang Mai’s Old City, so we took a short taxi ride from the bus terminal,as it was a bit too far to walk.

Chiang Mai’s Old City is the historic heart of the city, surrounded by ancient walls and a moat. Within its square-shaped layout, you’ll find a mix of centuries-old temples, bustling markets, charming cafés, and quiet backstreets lined with traditional teak houses.

We couldn’t wait to drop our bags and start exploring this vibrant city. Right across the street from our hotel stood one of Chiang Mai’s many incredible temples, just waiting to be discovered—perhaps not today, as it was already getting late, but definitely during our stay.

Since we had arrived on a Sunday, the first thing we noticed when stepping outside was that the streets near our hotel had been transformed into a bustling pedestrian-only zone for the Sunday Night Market. We soon learned that this weekly event is one of Chiang Mai’s most famous and vibrant markets, stretching along Ratchadamnoen Road from Tha Phae Gate deep into the heart of the Old City.

This market is a paradise for shoppers, food lovers, and culture enthusiasts. You’ll find a vast array of handmade crafts, intricate jewellery, traditional Thai clothing, unique souvenirs, and stunning artwork, much of it made by local artisans. Unlike some tourist markets, the Sunday Market is known for its authentic, high-quality goods at reasonable prices.

Street food is a major highlight, with vendors serving up everything from crispy spring rolls and mango sticky rice to freshly grilled meats and Thai iced tea. There are also plenty of spots to sit down and enjoy a foot massage after strolling through the bustling streets—if that’s your thing. Unfortunately, no one is touching my feet—far too ticklish!

I was immediately loving the feel of the place and could have browsed the stalls for hours. However, the crowded, slow-moving streets were starting to get on Shane’s nerves, so we made a detour away from the market, heading deeper into the Old City to escape the crowds.

I loved all the little alleyways tucked away from the main streets, where hidden restaurants, charming shops, and small accommodations with beautiful gardens could be found.

Even though Chiang Mai is a big city, some areas had a laid-back, village-like charm.

After exploring the town a bit more, we settled into one of the many restaurants. We’re still loving Thai food, so local cuisine was an easy choice. But with so many restaurants offering both Thai and international dishes, you’re truly spoiled for choice here.

After a great first impression, we were happy to retire for the evening and were very much looking forward to diving into the Old City the following day.

Up bright and breezy, we couldn’t wait to get lost in the streets and alleyways. Today was all about exploring the many temples. We may have visited lots of temples recently, but it’s what makes this area of Thailand so enchanting, and we’re still always blown away by the detail and beauty of their architecture. Many of these temples reflect the city’s rich Lanna heritage, with intricate designs and serene atmospheres that transport you back in time.

The first temple we came across was ‘Wat Phra Singh’ which is one of Chiang Mai’s most iconic and revered temples. It is a beautiful example of Lanna-style architecture and one of the city’s most important cultural and spiritual sites.

The temple’s peaceful grounds include lush garden with golden chedis, and shaded areas where you can relax and take in the serene atmosphere.

Wat Phra Singh is not only a major tourist attraction but also an active place of worship. It plays a key role in the city’s Buddhist traditions and festivals, particularly during the Songkran festival, when it is the centre of water-throwing celebrations.

Chiang Mai is also home to literally hundreds of coffee shops, so it wasn’t long before we stumbled across one that invited us to take a short break and watch the world go by for a moment.

Refreshed and moving on the next temple we came across ‘Wat Chedi Luang’ famous for its massive, partially restored chedi (stupa), which was originally constructed in the 14th century during the reign of King Saen Muang Ma, the chedi was intended to house the ashes of the king. It was once fully covered in gold and richly decorated but was damaged by an earthquake in 1545, leaving the chedi partially in ruins. Despite this, it remains an impressive and majestic sight, with intricately carved stone elephants guarding its base.

I loved this temple and think it’s going to be pretty hard to beat, but we pressed on, coming across hidden, lesser-known temples throughout the city, each offering its own unique charm and serenity. From the grand chedis to the intricate woodwork, every temple had something special to admire. However, rather than bore you with the details of each one, let’s just say that the sheer beauty, peaceful atmosphere, and rich history of these temples made for a truly memorable experience.

Exploring these temples worked up quite an appetite, so we were eager to pause for lunch—of course, it had to be Thai; I’m completely hooked on the food here. We found the perfect spot, a cozy little place with a view of the city’s ancient walls. I’m still amazed at how affordable the food is—once again, we enjoyed a delicious meal for just a few pounds. I truly hope I don’t tire of this incredible cuisine anytime soon!

After pounding the streets all day on a temple mission, it was time to head back to the hotel and freshen up before heading out again to sample the nightlife.

When it comes to nightlife, Chiang Mai offers a blend of relaxed bars, vibrant night markets, live music venues, and lively clubs, making it a great place to unwind after a day of exploration. While it may not have the high-energy party scene of cities like Bangkok, Chiang Mai’s nightlife is characterised by its laid-back, friendly atmosphere.

Now, we weren’t looking to hit the club scene—that’s way past our bedtime these days—but we do enjoy a bar where we can people-watch and listen to some good music.

Sure enough, we found the perfect spot to watch the world go by and enjoy a couple of drinks after our full day of sightseeing.

As we headed back toward the hotel to call it a night. Just a few hundred yards from where we’d had a drink, we stumbled upon an area filled with quirky bars—some even had old bullet camper vans converted into lively drinking spots. We took a quick walk through, and the place was buzzing with energy, full of young people enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. It was clearly their scene, so we decided to leave them to it and head back for a more peaceful evening!

The Old City of Chiang Mai is quite large, so the following day, we spent the morning exploring some more. We came across Buak Hard Park in the south-western corner, filled with lush greenery, tranquil walking paths, and a lovely pond. The park was full of people walking dogs, resting on blankets on the grass, or sitting on the many benches. It must have recently been the Chiang Mai Flower Festival, as many colourful displays were still in bloom throughout the park. It was a charming and quiet place that offered a nice contrast to the busy streets.

After the park, we strolled across to the opposite side of the Old City, exploring more of the side streets. Once again, it wasn’t long before we came across more temples—which isn’t surprising given that the Old City is home to over 30 temples, and Chiang Mai itself has over 300. I’m not sure we’ll find them all—Ha!

Taking a break from the temples, another place I had read about was the Mae Kha Canal, which wasn’t too far to walk. The canal has been significantly improved in recent years, with cleaner water, better drainage systems, and landscaped paths that are now enjoyed by both locals and tourists. The canal has become a pleasant area for walking, jogging, and cycling, with green spaces and public seating along its banks.

When we arrived, we got talking to a guy who mentioned that the canal is better in the evening when the temperature is lower. They light up the pathway with LED lights, and little stalls line the path selling food and drinks. Since we’d made the trip, we still had a short walk along the canal. We will definitely come back one evening, as it will be interesting to see it lit at night.

It was another great day of exploring. We enjoy busy days in cities, but sometimes it’s nice and necessary to relax on a beach or by a pool. While there was no beach this far north, what we did have was a lovely hotel with a room that led directly to the poolside—perfect for mixing things up and getting some much-needed downtime. Any spare time to catch up on some reading and enjoy the sunshine was absolutely perfect!

After a couple of chill out days we were back on Temple hopping. One we wanted to visit was ‘Wat Phra That Doi Suthep’ which is one of Chiang Mai’s most iconic temples, perched on Doi Suthep mountain just outside the city. It is not only a spiritual center but also a popular tourist destination, offering stunning views over Chiang Mai and its surrounding areas.

The best and cheapest way to reach the temple was by taking one of the Red Songthaews—shared taxis—from near the Chang Phueak Gate. So, the following day, we headed over to the gate in search of the taxis. There they were, all lined up across from the gate. As we approached, the driver asked if we were heading to the temple, to which we confirmed we were. They wait until the vehicle is full before leaving. We were lucky and timed it well, as we helped fill the numbers, and were soon on our way up the hillside to the temple. The driver also mentioned that we could visit another temple nearby. The fare was 80 baht each way, which is only a couple of pounds, so it was extremely good value.

The temple, which dates back to 1383, is considered a sacred site in Thai Buddhism. Its golden stupa, which houses a relic of the Buddha, is a major draw for both pilgrims and visitors. To reach the temple, you have to climb the 306 steps, lined with intricate Naga (serpent) sculptures, or take the cable car if you’re not feeling energetic.

Once at the top you are treated to beautiful panoramic views of the city below and the surrounding hills The temple complex itself is serene, with richly decorated buildings, murals, and statues that reflect the temple’s spiritual significance and Lanna architectural style.

After exploring the temple we headed back down the hillside towards the next temple which wasn’t too far away. The drive itself was good with lots of twists and turns and glimpses of the city below.

The 2nd temple was called ‘Wat Pha Lat’, often known as the “Hidden Temple” nestled in the forested foothills. While all temples in Chiang Mai are beautiful, this one exceeded our expectations—it truly was a hidden gem. Its jungle-like location and natural surroundings added to the charm. With intricately carved wooden doors, Buddha images, quiet courtyards, and lush gardens, it felt like a serene retreat that offered a more authentic Buddhist experience away from the crowds. There were also viewpoints with stunning vistas of the city and the surrounding mountains.

This temple quickly became our firm favourite in Chiang Mai. What a brilliant day it was! It felt like a mini tour in the taxi, with our driver waiting for us at each temple. Fantastic value—we would highly recommend it; in fact, we already have.

There is so much to see and do in Chiang Mai. If you want to venture a little further out in the region you can visit the ‘Doi Inthanon National Park’ which is home to the country’s highest peak, Doi Inthanon, which stands at 2,565 meters. The park is filled with lush rainforests and pine forests, making it a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and bird watchers. Highlights of the park include the Twin Royal Pagodas built to honor King Rama IX and Queen Sirikit, many waterfalls, nature trails and ethnic villages.

Chiang Mai is also home to several ethical elephant sanctuaries that focus on conservation, rescue, and responsible tourism. We definitely wanted to visit one while we were here.

After some research, we chose to visit Into the Wild Elephant Camp, a small, family-run sanctuary located an hour and a half south of the city center. The camp provides a safe and sustainable environment for its five retired and rescued elephants, allowing them to roam freely in their natural habitat.

In a small group of just eight, we first learned about the history, behaviour, and conservation of elephants, giving us a deeper understanding and appreciation of these majestic creatures.

We then had the opportunity to feed them some snacks before trekking into the jungle, where we could observe them as they foraged.

We then made our way back to the camp with the elephants, and this is when the real fun began. Before giving them a mud bath, we had to cover ourselves in mud first—masking our human scent so we could get closer to bathe them. It was an unforgettable experience, scooping up handfuls of thick mud and giving them a proper scrub in the small mud pond. Laughter and splashes filled the air as the elephants reveled in the treatment.

After the mud bath, we moved to the larger pond for the final rinse, watching as they playfully submerged themselves in the cool water. They seemed to love every moment of it—and honestly, who wouldn’t enjoy a daily spa treatment like this?

It was an amazing experience—after all, it’s not every day you get to feed and bathe elephants. We felt privileged to be part of it. It was definitely one to tick off the bucket list!

This almost brought our time in Chiang Mai to an end. On our last evening, we decided to revisit the canal and nearby was the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, so we took the opportunity to visit that as well.

During our travels, we’ve been to our fair share of night markets, and this one was definitely worth a visit. It offered a vibrant mix of shopping, street food, and entertainment, along with a couple of outdoor food courts featuring live music.

We didn’t stay too long, just a short stop before heading to the canal which was lit up just as the guy had said, but unfortunately, it still wasn’t very busy. A couple of guys were singing and playing guitar, which was nice, but we didn’t feel the need to stay. At least we had seen it.

We’d come to favour a couple of spots in the Old City so we decided to head back there.

After spending the past week exploring, we’ve gotten to know Chiang Mai quite well and discovered that its nightlife is spread across different pockets of the city. Each area offers a distinct vibe, making it easy to experience something new every night. But for us, the charm of the Old City won out—it was definitely where we felt most at home and a great way to spend our final evening!

We’ve really enjoyed our time here in Chiang Mai, finding a great balance between exploration and relaxation. But now, it’s time to move on.

Next, we’re heading further into the mountains to Pai, a laid-back town known for its bohemian atmosphere, lush landscapes, and relaxed vibe.

Pai.

Our next stop on the northern adventure was the town of Pai, located about 130 km northwest of Chiang Mai. Nestled in a scenic valley, we’d heard mixed reviews about Pai, with some saying the town had been ruined in recent years due to over-tourism. However, we’d also read about the beauty of the surrounding countryside, so we decided to see for ourselves.

The journey from Chiang Mai to Pai is famously winding, with 762 curves, but the scenery along the way is said to be breathtaking. We were advised to take a motion sickness pill just to be safe, which was easy to pick up at one of the many pharmacies.

Luckily, we managed to avoid getting sick, but we also somehow missed all the breathtaking scenery along the way. Both of us dozed off so we joked we must have been secretly given sleeping tablets—though, in reality, we hadn’t. We must’ve just been really tired. Not that we were complaining—we got there in no time!

We booked an amazing hotel in Pai—let’s call it our belated anniversary present. It was set in lush countryside with a view over the mountains, where we could watch the sunrise. We even had the luxury of a terrace with loungers overlooking the garden. It was absolutely amazing! At that point, the town could’ve been terrible for all we cared—we could’ve just stayed here! Ha!

We were only a short walk from the town centre, but the hotel provided a shuttle, which could come in handy. For now, we were happy to walk—though that was only if we could prize ourselves away from the beautiful setting!

We headed down to ‘walking street’ first which is the Main Street stretching through the heart of the town. This street comes alive at night filled with Bars, restaurants cozy cafes and boutiques. It’s was early evening so many stalls were also setting up for the nightly market which lines the street where they sell a mix of local food, handmade crafts, clothing, and artwork.

First impressions: we definitely like the look of this town, and I’m so glad we weren’t put off by some of the reviews. It’s known as a hippy town, and it definitely has a bit of a psychedelic vibe, but it’s also very much on the tourist trail, so it has its fair share of backpackers. However, it’s not all youngsters—there seemed to be a nice mix of people of all ages.

There were also some very inviting restaurants and trendy bistros offering a mix of local and Western food. I already knew we were going to like it here—it had a nice, chilled vibe as well.

We didn’t have a late night. After a nice meal and a few drinks, we were happy to head back to the hotel. As luck would have it, the shuttle bus was just around the corner from Walking Street. As you probably know, we don’t mind walking, but on the odd occasion, it’s nice to get a lift. Perfect timing!

Bright and breezy, we woke up the next morning to the sun just rising over the mountains and the sound of the birds’ chorus. We were able to enjoy a delicious breakfast served in the beautiful restaurant—it was the perfect way to start the day. Could definitely get used to this!

Today, we were planning to explore some of the surrounding area on foot. Most people would hire a scooter to get around, but it’s not something we want to do anymore—probably an age thing! We’ve seen too much evidence of accidents, which puts us off. Thankfully, we like to walk, so it’s no big deal.

We first headed in the direction of the Big Buddha, which can be seen up on the hillside just outside the town. The walk wasn’t too bad, as the roads here aren’t very busy, and the surrounding countryside is nice and rural.

We crossed a bridge over the river where we the starting point for the ‘tipsy tubing’ which is a popular attraction amongst the young backpackers. The experience typically involves tubing down a scenic stretch of the river, with stops at bars or local spots offering drinks, music, and a chill atmosphere. If there was a few more our age I’d do it but we would look like mum and dad tagged along-ha!

So, we carried on, being more sensible (and probably more boring) toward the Buddha! We had to climb two sets of steps: the first to the entrance, and then, once at the site, more steps leading right up to the Big Buddha itself—OMG, we always seem to be climbing steps!

The view was worth it, though. Although a little hazy, you could see for miles across the valley and town, all surrounded by mountains.

Next stop we wanted to visit the long neck village which was around a half hour walk from the Big Buddha. We enjoyed the walk along small, rural roads surrounded by lush greenery and the occasional farm. The path was fairly quiet, with only a few local vehicles passing by.

As you approach the Long Neck Village, the scenery shifts slightly, and you’ll see more local homes along the way. The village itself is nestled in a picturesque location, and as you get closer, the traditional thatched-roof huts and the unique atmosphere of the village come into view.

The Long Neck Village is a cultural attraction where you can learn about the traditions and lifestyle of the Kayan people, a subgroup of the Karen ethnic group, who are known for their distinctive tradition of wearing brass neck coils. These coils are worn by women from an early age and gradually added to over time, elongating the neck.

It’s a small village, but a fascinating cultural experience. Set in a picturesque area, there’s a small fee to enter. Once inside, you can walk through and interact with the community, learning about their way of life, crafts, and customs. You can also purchase handmade souvenirs, often crafted by the women themselves.

I even got to try on a smaller version of the traditional necklace—it was only a fraction of the weight the women wear, and I have no idea how they manage it! I also treated myself to a bracelet, helping to support this small community.

We made our way back to the hotel after that. It was starting to get extremely hot under the afternoon sun, and it would be a shame not to take advantage of the lovely pool and tranquil surroundings before heading out for dinner.

To fully explore what Pai has to offer, you either need a scooter or should book one of the many tours available. Throughout the town, there are numerous tourist offices selling a variety of local trips, all reasonably priced.

We decided to book an afternoon tour that would visit several different attractions in the area. Its first stop was back at the Buddha, but since this was the only place we would be duplicating, it didn’t put us off booking.

There were only five of us on the tour, as we were joined by three lovely Dutch ladies. After a quick visit to the Buddha, we headed over to one of the many waterfalls in the area. It wasn’t the best waterfall we’ve ever seen, but it was busy with youngsters climbing the rocks and sliding into the lower pools. We didn’t fancy getting wet for the duration of the tour, so we happily watched them having fun before moving on to our next stop—the viewpoint, which offered stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and lush valley. Again, it was a little hazy, but still beautiful.

Just a short drive down from the viewpoint was the Chinese Village, which would be our next stop. Also known as Santichon Village, it showcases the lifestyle of the Yunnanese Chinese people who migrated to Thailand from southern China decades ago. The village features Chinese-style homes and temples, along with shops selling Chinese souvenirs and snacks.

It was then time for some refreshments so next we visited a place called ‘Coffee in love’ which was a quirky little cafe. If you didn’t know better you’d think you were in the English Lake District with its western style house and mountainous landscape. The café has become somewhat of a must-visit destination, not only for its coffee but also for its Instagram-worthy views. It has a charming, cozy vibe with plenty of outdoor seating, making it an ideal place to relax, sip on a coffee, and take in the natural beauty of Pai.

Refreshed after a delicious iced coffee we headed to the Bamboo bridge which is a unique and scenic walking bridge made entirely of bamboo. It spans over the rice fields and was originally built by locals as a way to access the fields during harvest season, but it has since become a popular tourist attraction.

The bridge is sturdy despite being made of bamboo and stretches quite a distance, as it also connects to nearby villages. Along the way, you may come across locals working in the fields or riding bikes along the path. The bridge also leads up to a beautiful temple, but unfortunately, we didn’t have time to explore as we had to get to our last stop of the day which would be to Pai canyon in time for the sunset.

Pai Canyon is one of Pai’s most popular natural attractions, known for its stunning landscapes and unique geological formations. The canyon features narrow ridges and deep ravines, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and forests.

Visitors can hike along the narrow paths, but there was no way we were going to attempt that! Sheer drops on either side with not a single railing in sight—it’s really quite dangerous. We were happy to sit back and wait for the sun to set from a safe distance, but we couldn’t help but cringe at some of the people walking out on the ledges. What some people will do for a photo!

We got to enjoy the amazing sunset before heading back into town.

It was a brilliant afternoon trip, and we really got to see a lot of what Pai has to offer. The scenery as we drove was pretty spectacular.

We were only staying in Pai for a short while, we had one more day so decided we would use it to relax at our beautiful hotel with its lovely amenities-be rude not too!

On our last evening, we walked through town toward the river. There are a couple of restaurants on either side of the river, which can be crossed via a small bamboo bridge. It was a lovely place to relax and have a drink while the sun went down.

We really enjoyed our time in Pai. Don’t be put off by some of the negative things people say. We didn’t personally witness anyone stoned or out of it from the legal drugs on offer here—not saying it wasn’t happening, but it’s no different from the rest of Thailand, where cannabis is now legal and freely available. What we experienced was a laid-back, chilled town with amazing scenery.

But now it’s time to head back down that winding road to Chiang Mai for a pit stop before we embark on a long train journey to Bangkok.

The journey itself is one of the highlights of taking the train, as we’ve read it passes through picturesque landscapes—lush rice fields, mountain ranges, and charming villages—so we’re really looking forward to it.

Bangkok — Our Return.

We decided to take the train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok based on a recommendation. While many travellers opt for the sleeper train arriving the next morning, we heard a different suggestion in conversation a few months back. Someone mentioned that if you’re in no rush, the daytime train from Chiang Mai to the capital is a really enjoyable and scenic journey. That sounded perfect for us—we had time on our side and both enjoy train travel. Even though it was a long trip, taking around 10 hours, we saw it as a day trip in itself!

The only downside was that when I received the tickets, we hadn’t been seated together. It wasn’t the end of the world since we were sat quite close, but given the length of the journey, it would have been nicer to sit together.

At the train station, we stocked up on a few snacks to tide us over and were soon on our way. Shane had been assigned a window seat, but I was on the aisle next to a lady who closed the curtain as soon as we set off—so much for the scenic views!

It was a good job I’d downloaded a few novels as it looked like I’d be reading for the next few hours.

The train chugged slowly down a single track, and whenever Shane spotted breathtaking scenery, I’d head over to his side for a look—he even saw an elephant at one point! After a short while, the lady next to me realised she was blocking the view and kindly opened the curtain for the rest of the journey.

The time actually passed quickly, and it was a comfortable journey—I was glad we’d decided to take the train.

When we arrived at the station in Bangkok, we had to take a taxi to our hotel. Bangkok is a large city, so the ride took another 40 minutes, but we still managed to check in and make it in time for supper and a few G&Ts. Overall, it had been a great day!

Since we’ve been to Bangkok before, this would just be a pit stop. We wouldn’t be in a rush to see all the sights—this visit would be much more laid-back, but nonetheless, I’m sure just as enjoyable!

When we were here last year, we stayed in Chinatown, which was great. However, we discovered an area called Rambuttri and visited it a couple of times because we loved the vibe—vibrant yet with a village feel. You don’t feel like you’re in a big city here—no high-rises, and it’s close to the river and the Grand Palace. So this time, we chose to stay in Rambuttri, and it turned out to be a great decision.

The following day, we didn’t have a major plan in place. I suggested we walk down toward the river and visit one of the parks.

It was funny—when we set off, the tuk-tuk drivers were immediately on us, trying to sell trips to here, there, and everywhere. We politely refused, and one of them asked, “Where are you going?”

“To the park,” I replied.

He looked completely dumbfounded. “Why? There’s nothing to see at the park!”

I laughed and said, “We want to see lizards.”

He stared at me as if I’d lost my mind, but when we got to the park, we did see lizards—and I was ecstatic! We love spotting wildlife, so don’t diss the park, matey—ha!

We understand he’s so used to tourists wanting temples, markets, or sightseeing tours and that the idea of someone choosing a park just for wildlife seemed absurd to him.

After spending time in the park, we continued past the Grand Palace and made our way to the river. From the riverbank, we had a fantastic view of Wat Arun, one of Bangkok’s most iconic landmarks, famous for its towering central prang.

Since we had visited last year, we didn’t feel the need to go inside again, but it was still just as impressive from the riverside. As we wandered, we discovered a street that lined up perfectly with the temple, making it a great spot for photos. Unsurprisingly, plenty of Instagrammers had already found this spot.

We definitely planned to return at night, as we hadn’t photographed Wat Arun after dark on our last visit—I imagine it will look spectacular.

We didn’t really know where we were heading next—we just knew we needed a large iced drink, that was for sure. The city was heating up, living up to its reputation as a melting pot, especially at this time of year.

With ice-cold drinks in hand, we wandered aimlessly until we passed a man who asked, “Where are you going?”

“Just walking,” we replied.

“In this direction? There’s nothing down there to see,” he said.

It tickled me yet again how some people assume we’re only here for the tourist sights. In reality, just a few minutes down the road, we found ourselves in a labyrinth of alleyways filled with lanterns and local life—this was where there was everything. It reminded me why we love Bangkok so much. Had we taken the man’s advice, we might have missed it. He meant well, but not everyone is searching for the same thing.

We realised we were close to the canal lined with Indian restaurants—a great find from last year. With lunchtime approaching, there was no better place to stop for a bite to eat. We’re still loving Thai food, but we’ll never say no to an Indian!

By the time we got back to Rambuttri we’d had an amazing day and just in time to have a cool down in the rooftop pool before the sun went down.

The following day, we were in pretty much the same mindset—not really sure where to go. We decided to visit a temple just a short walk away, as I’d read it had a giant Buddha statue, and then we’d take it from there.

The statue and temple were impressive, and you could even climb the stairs inside the giant Buddha—which, of course, I did. Omg, why do I do this to myself? My legs were like jelly afterward—ha!

On our walk back, we were stopped once again by a tuk-tuk driver.

“Where are you going?” he asked.

“Just walking,” we replied.

He was selling a tour of some temples we hadn’t seen before, which actually caught our attention. After climbing all those stairs, I was more than happy to ride around the city in a tuk-tuk, so we agreed on a price and hopped in.

It was great whizzing through the streets with a refreshing breeze, and we got to visit the Golden Mount (Wat Saket), a striking hilltop temple. Sitting atop an artificial hill, it’s famous for its gleaming golden chedi, which can be seen from various parts of Bangkok. We’d spotted it in the distance from our hotel’s rooftop pool and had said we needed to visit—so this little trip ended up being perfect.

He also took us to the Marble Temple another beautiful spot we hadn’t heard of before.

All in all, we really enjoyed our afternoon!

Later, after giving our legs a bit of a rest, we decided to walk down to the riverside to catch the sunset and see Wat Arun lit up at night.

We followed the quickest walking route, and it was funny when it led us straight through a university campus—even through the student canteen of all places! I turned to Shane and said, “If we weren’t trying to catch the sunset, we could have joined the students for a subsidised dinner—pretended we were the oldest students in town—ha!”

When we reached the riverside, the sun was just setting. To get the best view, we would have needed to be on the other side of the river, but there wasn’t enough time for that now. Instead, we joined the crowd of people waiting for the sky to darken and for Wat Arun to light up beautifully.

As expected, the alleyway was busy with Instagrammers capturing that shot.

Happy with our photos, we headed back. Close to Rambuttri is Khaosan Road—only a few streets apart, yet worlds apart when it comes to chaos. We visited last year but decided to take one more look.

Khaosan Road is crazy—it’s the beating heart of Bangkok’s backpacker scene. A wild, neon-lit strip packed with bars, street food stalls, souvenir shops, and an endless stream of travellers looking for a good time. By day, it’s bustling but relatively tame, with vendors selling everything from elephant-print harem pants to fake IDs and questionable “authentic” souvenirs. By night, it transforms into a full-on party zone, where music from competing bars blares into the street, fire dancers perform, and touts try to lure you in with buckets of booze and promises of the “best night ever.”

We weren’t planning to stop—we just wanted to walk up and down the strip. I was relieved when we were done—get me back to Rambuttri now, ha! Yep, I won’t be in a rush to go back—seen it twice, and that’s enough!

Craziness aside, we really enjoyed our time back in Bangkok—even though we only explored a small area. If (or more likely when) we return, we can continue exploring different districts, just as we did this time—taking the rough guide off the beaten path, which always seems to suit us best.

Next, it’s time to head back to the beach—it’s been a while!

We’re off to Koh Samet, a lesser-known island to some but a popular weekend escape for many Bangkokians, as it’s the closest island to the city. Just a few hours’ drive and a short boat ride later, we’ll be there. We’re looking forward to seeing what this small island has to offer!

Koh Samet.

We were looking forward to dipping our toes back in the ocean. Only a couple of hours drive from Bangkok brought us to the pier at Ban Pae and from there it’s only a 15 minute ride on the speedboat to Nadan pier on Koh Samet.

Koh Samet is a small, laid-back island in the Gulf of Thailand, known for its white sandy beaches, clear turquoise waters, and relaxed vibe. Unlike the more famous Thai islands, it remains relatively low-key.

It’s a favourite weekend getaway for city dwellers who come to soak up the sun, enjoy fresh seafood, and take in the island’s stunning sunsets. The island is part of Khao Laem Ya–Mu Ko Samet National Park, meaning much of its coastline is well-preserved, with scenic bays, rocky outcrops, and calm waters ideal for swimming and snorkeling.

Sai Kaew Beach is the most popular and lively stretch, lined with beach bars and restaurants, and this is where we chose to stay.

It was only a five-minute walk from the pier to our hotel, so in no time, we had checked in, gotten a little organised, and were out exploring in the direction of the beach.

We immediately felt the island vibes as we walked along the Main Street, lined with eateries, souvenir shops, and bars. We definitely liked the look of the place.

When we reached the beach, we were met with pure, powder-white sand and an inviting sea—yes, this will do!

It was already late in the day, so we took a stroll along Sai Kaew Beach to the Mermaid and Child Monument at the far end before heading back. We just wanted to get a feel for the resort, and on first impressions, we liked what we saw.

That evening, we walked back down to the beach, and since it was the weekend, it was especially busy. The beachfront restaurants and bars had set up candlelit tables on the sand, creating a cozy and inviting ambiance. The sound of the waves blended with chilled-out music, making it the perfect setting for a beachfront dinner or a cocktail under the stars.

Koh Samet is a small island, approximately 7 kilometers (4.3 miles) long and 3 kilometers (1.9 miles) at its widest point. It covers an area of about 13 square kilometers (5 square miles).

Because of its compact size, Koh Samet is easy to explore—many visitors get around by walking, renting motorbikes, or taking songthaews (shared pickup taxis).

We planned to walk as much of the island as we could—clock up a few steps to earn a good dinner, ha!

The following morning, we set off along the east coast, where most of the bays are located. We still wanted to see the western side, which is quieter and more secluded, but we decided to leave that for another day.

We retraced our steps along Sai Kaew Beach back down to the mermaid statue which is one of the island’s most famous landmarks. This bronze statue depicts a mermaid holding a child and is inspired by Phra Aphai Mani, a classic Thai epic poem written by Sunthorn Phu, Thailand’s most celebrated poet.

From there, we continued along Koh Samet Beach, which was lined with a few beach cafés and a surf school. When we reached the end of the bay, we weren’t sure if we could get to the next bay Ao Phai, via the beach, as it was quite rocky so we just had to do a short detour along the road that then led back down to the beach.

Continuing on, we decided to take the road for a short while. It was turning into a great walk, so we didn’t mind which route we took. At least this way, we passed a few quirky bars and restaurants that we might revisit later.

The road gradually turned into a slight climb before splitting—one led left to the next bay, while the other veered right toward the western side of the island. As planned, we continued left and soon picked up signs for the next bay, Rayong.

These bays are all beautiful dotted with lovely resorts many with beach bungalows. We were going to stop for a swim but decided to get a little further as when we get in that inviting sea we might not get out.

So we carried on walking along Rayong, but at the very end, we couldn’t see a way to continue to the next bay. There was a resort with bungalows up the hillside, so we took a quick walk up, but it only led to a rocky outcrop—there was no way to go any further.

The views from up there, though, were spectacular, overlooking the bay, so it wasn’t a wasted walk. Plus, we ended up saving a snake that was being attacked by a bird! The bird kept dropping it in its attempt to fly away with the poor thing. When it dropped it again, Shane stepped in, shooing the bird away.

Then, in a random twist, I fed the bird some Cheetos—ha! Lucky I had them, and the bird decided it preferred those. Much tastier than snake! With the distraction, the snake made its escape—woohoo, good deed of the day!

So we had to retrace our steps back to the road and continue left until we saw signs for Ao Nuan. It was only a small bay, but from there, we were able to pick up a coastal path leading to Ao Chor.

As soon as we took the steps down to the bay, we were met with the sound of reggae and the sight of the Rasta Bar—way hey, the perfect stop! And just in time for lunch. The only problem? Would we be able to carry on if we got too relaxed? Well, it wouldn’t be the end of the world, so we got the drinks in.

After a well-deserved rest, we decided we’d walked far enough in this direction for one day—especially since we still had to make our way back. So, after a much-needed swim in the beautifully inviting sea, we strolled back, taking a mix of road and beach routes to our hotel.

Well, what another great day that was—topped off with a tasty Thai supper. What’s not to love!

The next day, we were back on a mission—how many bays could we possibly discover on Koh Samet before our legs gave out? Challenge accepted! Armed with plenty of sunscreen, a sense of adventure, and the promise of a cold drink at the finish line, we set off once again, ready to conquer more of the island, one beautiful bay at a time.

We followed the road as far as we’d gone the previous day, then dropped down to Ao Thian, a small cove separated by rocky outcrops. Feeling the heat, we decided to stop for a swim and ended up spending at least an hour lazily floating in the gentle waves. The sea wasn’t even that cool, but it was still absolutely lovely.

Finally dragging ourselves out of the sea, we dried off and continued to the next beach, Wai Beach, which felt more like a natural continuation of the last. This area was absolutely lovely—we passed charming resorts with bungalows and cozy little beach restaurants and it had its own floating pier. If we ever return to Koh Samet, this is definitely where we’d want to stay.

Towards the very end of the beach, we came across the Pirates Bar and Rock Cafe—oh no, yet another beach bar calling us in! The sounds of Red Hot Chili Peppers drifted through the air and a beautiful setting.

I turned to Shane and said, “Come on, we’d only regret walking past a place like this. After that long walk, we’ve earned it—and honestly, I don’t care if we don’t make it any further!”

And just like that, we settled in. The island vibes, the music—it was perfect.

We didn’t make it any further—ha!

And as if that wasn’t lazy enough, we didn’t even walk all the way back to the hotel. But in our defense, it wasn’t entirely our fault! Halfway back, my shoe decided it had had enough and completely gave up on me. What a shame—we had no choice but to hitch a ride in a songthaew back into town. Purely out of necessity, of course… not because we secretly loved the excuse to sit back and cruise the rest of the way!

We were really starting to get into island life here, maybe a little too much. We can see the appeal on this small island the more we explore and get to know it.

We wasn’t staying on the island very long, we could have, but at least it gives us reason to return in the future.

On our last day, staying true to our word, we set off to explore the western side of the island and make our way to Prao Beach (Ao Prao).

Before doing this, we wanted to take a quick look at Ao Pa Cha, a small bay just a few minutes’ walk from our hotel on the way to the pier—another spot to tick off our challenge list. It was a quiet and peaceful bay, seemingly popular with locals for picnics, with a few benches, shaded areas, and swings. After a brief look around, we set off for Prao Beach.

To get there, we retraced our steps to the familiar split in the road and took the path to the right. The walk wasn’t particularly challenging, but it did involve a few hilly stretches—with the final descent to the beach being quite steep.

When we arrived, Prao Beach did not disappoint. It was beautiful and serene, with soft white sand, crystal-clear waters. This resort gets a view of the sunset—a rarity on an island where most beaches face east. Unlike the busier beaches on Koh Samet, Ao Prao has a more relaxed and upscale vibe, with a handful of luxury resorts and beachfront restaurants. It felt like the perfect spot to unwind on our final day.

Our final night didn’t disappoint—even though we had plans for an early night. Famous last words.

As we were heading back, we got shouted into a small but lively bar where a group was playing a shooting game involving an air rifle and a dartboard. Before we knew it, we were roped in and ended up having an unexpectedly fun night with a couple from Prague—who were ‘out, out’ because their mum was babysitting their two kids. Then, three friendly English guys joined in, and suddenly, we had a full-blown shooting tournament that went on into the small hours. The rule was simple: the first to hit three targets won shots—so you can imagine how that played out!

It was a brilliant night, but probably not the best timing, considering we had to travel back to Bangkok the next day. Oh well, memories aren’t made by being sensible—ha!

So that brought our short but sweet time on Koh Samet to an end. Unfortunately, we failed the mission and didn’t get to see all the bays—but on the plus side, we’ve at least saved some for when we return!

We base our travels on the philosophy that the plan is to have no plan—things just evolve as we go. Originally, we thought about heading to Koh Chang, which would still take around five hours to reach. But after talking with other travellers, one name kept coming up: Koh Lipe.

I’d heard of Koh Lipe before, but since it’s so far south, we had planned to visit it another time. However, people kept calling it the “Maldives of Thailand”, so we thought—why not see the best way to get there?

The most common route is to fly to Hat Yai from Bangkok and then take a transfer to the coast. Another option is to travel from Langkawi, Malaysia. Both options involve similar boat distances to reach Koh Lipe.

That got us thinking—we really enjoyed Langkawi! It’s a fantastic island with amazing wildlife and food, and from there, it’s just 90 minutes by boat to Koh Lipe. Being so close to the southern Thai islands, Langkawi can complement a Thai island-hopping trip. In fact, the last time we were here, we spoke to many travellers who did just that.

Decision made—back to Malaysia it is!

We’ll stay one night in Bangkok—I’ll leave you with that song stuck in your head! Then, we’ll fly via Kuala Lumpur to Langkawi before heading back into Thailand to see if Koh Lipe lives up to the hype. Let’s hope so!

Langkawi — Our Return.

We’re including this part under the “Thailand” section since it follows the flow of our Thai travels, even though Langkawi is actually an island in Malaysia.

Even though we had to fly first to Kuala Lumpur and then take a connecting flight to Langkawi, the total travel time from Bangkok was still only around five hours. We arrived in Langkawi in time for supper and a few drinks, so it wasn’t a bad travel day at all.

It felt really nice being back in Langkawi, passing familiar places as we travelled the short distance to our hotel in Cenang by taxi. We’d really enjoyed our visit last time — in fact, it was the first place where we actually downed sticks for a while, and we ended up spending a couple of weeks here.

After a quick check in we were eager to get out and visit a couple of our old haunts—you never know we might even see a few familiar faces!

The town was buzzing when we arrived — we’d landed just towards the end of Ramadan, so loads of families were out enjoying dinner after breaking their fast. Langkawi is predominantly Muslim, like most of Malaysia, so Ramadan is a big part of life here.

That said, it’s also a super relaxed and tourist-friendly place. You can still get a cold beer (duty-free, no less!), beachwear is totally fine at the resorts and beaches, and people from all walks of life are welcomed with open arms.

We ended up at one of our favourite bars for a couple of drinks, but unfortunately didn’t see our old friends. We sent a quick message and found out they’re still in the UK and not heading out here until later this year — oh well, never mind! We’re sure we’ll meet new friends along the way.

One thing Langkawi has in abundance is great wildlife — there are loads of beautiful birds, including magnificent birds of prey that dominate the skies, like the Brahminy Kite and Sea Eagles. The eagles even lend Langkawi part of its name; in Malay, ‘helang’ means ‘eagle’. In the main town of Kuah, there’s a huge statue of this bird about to take flight. The island also boasts lizards (including large monitor lizards), and a couple of species of monkey. One of our favourites, the dusky leaf monkey, is actually native here — so we were definitely going to be on monkey watch while we were around. You know how much we love the monkeys!

So the following morning, we headed off on a walk in search of them. We remembered a spot where we saw a couple of Dusty Leaf Langurs last year, so we retraced our steps to the very end of the beach, where it meets a small estuary. From there, we crossed over the little bridge near the small jetty, where you can catch a boat to nearby Rebak Island.

No monkey sightings so far, but we did spot a few small lizards — and I saw a giant squirrel crossing the river along an overhead cable, heading high into a big tree. ‘Quick, Shane, get the large lens!’ The squirrel had already disappeared into the canopy, but we managed to get one shot where it looked like it was in stealth mode along one of the branches. I’m actually getting rather good at spotting wildlife, if I say so myself — I walk around with my head tilted, listening out for the odd rustle here and there. Ha!

With all that excitement, it was time to stop for lunch — well, that was my excuse anyway! We knew the perfect spot, just by the jetty, overlooking the ocean and Rebak Island. Monkey watch would resume after a bit of refuelling.

Over lunch, we got chatting to a group of expat ladies on their weekly ladies’ lunch. Amidst the general chit-chat, monkeys came up in conversation — of course! They told us about a few spots where we’d be likely to see langurs. Perfect — we’d definitely try to check those out while we were here.

After lunch we headed back towards the spot where we saw the langurs last time, but unfortunately, there was no sign of them today. It was probably the wrong time of day, as most sightings happen early in the morning or at dusk. Never mind — we still enjoyed the walk, especially the stretch back along the glorious beach.

The following day, we decided to walk to one of the spots recommended by the lovely ladies at lunch. They had said that langurs are often sighted at the far end of the next beach—Pantai Tengah—especially where the beach meets the rainforest. We’d never walked that far down on our previous visit, so it was all new to us. The beach here is nice, but not as well kept as Pantai Cenang, which we’d noticed they rake daily, but far from the worst beach we’ve seen.

We walked all the way to the bottom of the beach, to the forested headland. From there, you couldn’t go any further, and we guessed this was probably where you’d see the monkeys—but unfortunately, they weren’t hanging about today (literally!). Once again, we probably got our timing wrong. If we hope to see them, I think we’ll have to get out of bed earlier… but there’s a fat chance of that happening—ha!

We spotted a few sea eagles soaring above the headland. ‘Quick, get your big lens out, Shane!’ I said — but it was the same old story. We’ve seen so many eagles on this trip, and every time Shane starts swapping lenses, they’ve vanished by the time he’s ready. Maybe it’s finally time we invested in a more adaptable lens. Ah well, we give it our best shot!

Still adamant on finding monkeys we decided to walk up to the main road, as it had thick forest on either side. The road led up a really steep hill, but we marched on. At the top, we saw a lane to the right—but the only problem was, this lane was even steeper. I’m talking steep. Steep! So steep you could only take little steps because our feet were sliding out of our shoes. It was one of those where it might have been easier walking up backwards—which I actually tried for a second, but it didn’t help. Anyway, it definitely got the heart pounding—and that’s when we heard it! The sound of monkeys in the near distance—please be Langurs!!

I wasn’t getting our hopes up, as the racket in the forest sounded more like macaque monkeys—much more boisterous than the shy and reserved langurs.

We could hear the rustle of branches, so we knew they were getting closer. We stood silently, barely breathing, just focusing on the direction of the sound. Mixed with the coos and calls of countless birds and the rhythmic clicking of cicadas, it was actually quite exciting.

Then, we saw them—just as we suspected, it was the cheeky macaques. But we love all monkeys and enjoy observing their behaviour, so we were far from disappointed.

“Shane, get the big lens!” —only kidding. This time, he was already prepared and waiting, camera poised.

It was a family group that appeared as they travelled through the canopy. They used an overhead power cable to cross directly above us and continue into the forest on the other side of the lane. It’s always funny to watch as ‘Big Papa’ clocked us. We kept our distance and avoided prolonged eye contact—always the best advice—and he kept guard, now sitting on top of a fence that was actually quite close to us. He waited until his family passed by: there were playful, cheeky youngsters chasing each other, a mother with her baby, and then there was ‘Tripod.’

Aww—this was the name we gave to one of the group who was missing an arm. Despite that, ‘Tripod’ managed magnificently. He was a little slower and stayed toward the back, but the rest of the group waited for him (or her). It was quite endearing to see.

We waited until the group passed and were really happy that we’d managed to see monkeys, at least. They may not have been the langurs, but all monkeys are fantastic—and we got to meet “Tripod.” Bless!

Heading back down the hill and back into town was a lot easier than getting here. We’d earned a good dinner that’s for sure, and one of the reasons we were excited about revisiting Langkawi was because we can get Indian cuisine here as Malaysian food is shaped by its multicultural roots—mainly Malay, Chinese, and Indian influences.

Later that evening, we set off for dinner. The sun was just going down, so we decided to head to a bar with a lovely balcony overlooking the beach to watch the sunset first.

We were just sitting there, admiring the view, when I caught sight of movement across one of the rooftops nearby—it was monkeys! And they looked like black monkeys, which could only mean one thing—they must be langurs! This was the last place we expected to see them.

They even came down into the car park below, then swiftly leapt into the trees lining the beach.

“Quick, Shane, get your big lens!”—unfortunately, that was a joke, as we didn’t have it. Still, Shane shot out of the bar and down to the trees to try and capture what he could with the standard lens.

They were Dusty langurs! We couldn’t believe it. We’d hiked all day—sweating profusely—to find them to no avail, and here they were… at the bar of all places. Ha! You couldn’t write it—well, I am writing it!

Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get the best photos, as the light was fading and they’d climbed higher into the trees, making it more difficult. But we were pleased as punch that we’d seen them—what are the chances?

We got chatting with a group that evening, and one guy was from Manchester who was travelling indefinitely. It was great to hear his stories—the conversation flowed as we shared tales and realised we’d visited lots of the same places. He was also a really funny guy, so he had us in stitches most of the time. Said it how it was—ha!

We weren’t staying on Langkawi long—it was just a quick and easy route to Koh Lipe in Thailand. We didn’t plan on doing too much this time, as we’d done all that on our last visit, so we happily spent a few days just chilling on the beach or by the pool, and walking down the beach at night.

We put monkey watch on the back burner—well, not entirely. I’ll always be secretly cocking my head slightly and listening out. My mum would say, “You’ll stick like that!” Ha!

Our time on Langkawi was nearing an end. On our last evening, we were just heading out for dinner. We were a little later than usual, and the sun had already gone down, with not much light left in the sky.

The lane from our hotel down to the main road was tree-lined, and lo and behold—what do we see (or rather, what do I hear first with the cocked head)? Monkeys! Were they macaques or langurs?

Omg—they were langurs! Right on our doorstep. They’ve probably been there all along, but our timing must have been off. We couldn’t believe it. “Shane, get the big lens!”—ha, no point really. They were already heading back into the rainforest, so we just happily watched them swinging high in the treetops.

It was a large group, too—how typical! And the worst part? We could hear babies among them, making that high-pitched squeak we’d heard back in Penang. Aww, we would have loved to see the babies again—they’re the most unusual sight, being bright orange!

Oh well. We can’t say we didn’t get to see the dusky leaf langurs while we were here—we just weren’t able to capture them on camera close up. But I’m sure there’ll be other times.

We visited the bar where we’d met the Manchester guy for our final evening, and—just as we thought—he was there, propping up the bar. He laughed when he saw us and told us he’d met a couple just an hour earlier who he thought was us, as he didn’t have his glasses on. He’d said to them in his Manchester accent, “Aww right, our kid—are you having a drink?” The couple replied, “Yeah, OK,”and it wasn’t until they sat down that he realised it wasn’t us. He said they looked like us, but they were actually from Belgium. He said they were lovely company all the same, but reckoned they were probably wondering what he was on about, inviting them for a drink like that. We’d just missed them—funny how he saw us straight afterwards. Ha!

So that brought our time on Langkawi to an end. We thoroughly enjoyed it just as much as last time. It’s a place we’d happily return to—especially since we still haven’t done a boat trip here, and they look amazing. But it’s always nice to have a reason to come back.

It’s now time to spend our remaining ringgits and get out the baht, as we’re heading back to Thailand. This time by ferry—just a short 90-minute crossing will have us back on Thai soil… or should I say, the unspoilt white beaches of Koh Lipe. I hope so!

Koh Lipe.

After our brief return to Malaysia, we were once again on our way back to Thailand. From the main ferry port in Kuah, the capital of Langkawi, we took a ferry that only takes 90 minutes.

We were quite excited about Koh Lipe, as we hadn’t heard a single bad thing about the place. We decided to go back to basics and booked a bungalow on Pattaya beach. It was no-frills, no air con—just a fan, but fingers crossed it would suffice and get us through the hot, balmy nights. We could always take a cold shower if not!

The ferry couldn’t dock directly at the island, so we had to transfer to small long-tail boats that brought us to the floating pier on Pattaya Beach. Once on the island, we proceeded to the immigration checkpoint, which is located right on the beach. The setup is quite unique, with the immigration office being essentially a small hut on the sand. They had taken our passports when we boarded in Langkawi, and this was where we collected them—definitely a first for us.

With our accommodation located right on the beach, it was just a 10-minute walk from the pier. We’d chosen well—it was a fantastic location, and the bamboo bungalows were full of charm and tropical island vibes. Surprisingly, they felt quite cool, shaded by lots of beautiful trees. Each bungalow had a front porch with triangular floor cushions, which are common in Thailand and perfect for lounging—yes! I think we’re going to be happy here!

We quickly got organised and then set off back down the beach to explore. We headed in the direction we’d just come from, as it led us to Walking Street—a lively pedestrian thoroughfare that seamlessly connects Pattaya Beach cutting across the island to Sunrise Beach. Lined with an array of shops, bars, and restaurants, it’s the vibrant heart of Koh Lipe.

However, we soon discovered it wasn’t completely pedestrianised—we had to share the narrow street with trikes, the island’s motorbike taxis with sidecars. You have to dodge them quickly before they have a chance to take you out, as they don’t seem to slow down! So, while Walking Street is primarily a pedestrian zone, these trikes are permitted and frequently navigate the lanes, offering rides to various parts of the island.

Koh Lipe is only a small island, roughly 3.5 km long and 2.5 km wide, making it easy to walk from one end to the other in about 30–45 minutes.

Despite its small size, it packs in three main beaches—Pattaya Beach, Sunrise Beach, and Sunset Beach.

Its compact size is actually part of its charm—you can explore the whole island on foot or hop in a trike if you’re feeling lazy or have luggage!

We didn’t venture out for too long—just enough to familiarise ourselves before making our way back to our little bamboo hut.

It was refreshing to be right on the beach for a change. Pattaya Beach is lined with resorts, bungalows, restaurants, and beach bars, and it would be fascinating to see how the atmosphere transforms when the sun goes down.

Back at our accommodation, we had the use of deckchairs facing the ocean. The sea was crystal clear and incredibly inviting, so a quick dip was most definitely in order. It seemed that the local dogs also loved to take a dip—definitely a dog’s life here!

After a quick freshen-up (at least our little hut had a decent bathroom), we headed once more down the beach to see how ‘Walking Street’ transformed by nightfall. The beach itself had come alive with ambient lighting at many of the beach bars, beanbags strewn on the sand, and some spots even featured fire performances (which are popular in Thailand). There were numerous beachside restaurants, and whether you were in the mood for a gourmet dinner or a casual meal, many venues offered al fresco dining with stunning ocean views—creating a relaxed scene and laid-back island feel.

‘Walking Street’ was indeed full of life, as the narrow street was packed with tourists searching for dinner and browsing the many shops. Many street food vendors had set up, and with trikes making their way up and down the street, it was alive with hustle and bustle. You couldn’t even walk quickly with so many people—a situation that tested Shane’s patience as he weaved his way around the ‘strollers.’ Ha!

We walked to the very end of ‘Walking Street’ away from the crowds and decided to continue on to Sunrise Beach, where we found a lovely beach bar. It was totally different on this side—much more raw and untouched. The tide was right in, almost reaching where we sat, and this seemed to be the area where all the longtail boats anchored for the night.

We grabbed dinner on the way back along ‘Walking Street’. We were literally spoiled for choice with so many restaurants, and since we were still enjoying Thai food, most places came with good reviews—so we couldn’t go far wrong. And we didn’t!

Back at the hut, we wondered how our first night would fare—and whether we’d survive with just a fan. We’d have to see. It didn’t seem too hot, and under the mosquito net it felt rather cozy—like camping. It took a little longer to fall asleep, but in the end, we both slept really well.

The only thing we didn’t have in the hut—and missed dearly—was a kettle. We both enjoy a brew or two (or three!) in the morning.

We’d just have to do things a little differently while we were here.

Leaving Shane to come around, I set off in search of coffee and found a little café just a short walk down the beach offering coffee to go—perfect!

We’d have to make do with just the one cup this morning—well, at least we’d probably get out earlier, rather than sitting around drinking tea all morning!

Today we wanted to explore, so we headed to the bottom end of Pattaya Beach—away from the pier—and decided to just follow our nose from there. The beach here at Pattaya is beautiful, with sand so white you need sunglasses.

We passed by some upscale resorts—I bet they didn’t just have a fan, ha! Can’t really complain though; it’s only been a few occasions where we’ve not had air con, and to be honest, it was fine.

At the very end, we came across a rustic wooden bridge. On the map, we could see it led to Sanom Beach, so we followed this hand-built walkway as it wound around rocks and through lush greenery, to what we hoped would lead us to one of the island’s hidden gems.

The walkway led to a resort—we weren’t sure if it was private, but we thought, sod it, the worst that can happen is they ask us to leave. So we continued, and we’re glad we did, as it brought us to a beautiful, secluded bay with powdery white sand and crystal-clear turquoise waters—perfect for swimming. We couldn’t resist a quick dip before moving on, as today was all about exploring and relaxing in equal measure.

You couldn’t go any further because of the rocky headland, so we had to head back over the walkway and find a path that would lead us up into the centre of the island. And when I say up, I mean up—we ended on a path that was so steep, it turned into another heart-rate hill. Phew!

At the top, we had two options. Looking at the map, we decided to head left, as it seemed less developed, and we were curious to see what was down that way. The path took us past local homes where people were going about their daily routines—feeding chickens and burning foliage.

We stopped briefly for a drink at a small village store, then carried on exploring. The road eventually came to an end, but continued as a dirt track leading into the forest. It looked like a well-trodden path, so we kept going—for the time being.

We were the only people around. You could hear the occasional rustle, which turned out to be lizards, but we were definitely on high alert for snakes. The jungle was getting thicker, the trees towering overhead, and the sounds around us were getting a little eerie.

We had hoped to reach a small bay we’d seen on the map, but soon realised we were quite high up—and reaching a bay would only mean one thing: climbing down. We weren’t about to be that stupid, so we decided to turn back.

As we retraced our steps, we heard the sound of branches moving—it turned out to be a group of macaque monkeys making their way through the canopy. You know us and monkeys—we never tire of seeing them, so we stopped for a few minutes to watch before continuing back toward civilisation.

Civilisation came in the form of a luxury resort. We decided to be a bit cheeky and take a peek, hoping it might also be a shortcut to the beach. The resort was on the sunset side of the island.

It was a really lovely place, with many rooms featuring their own private swimming pools—how the other half live, hey! We found some steps leading down to the restaurant, and finally the inviting ocean came into view. It was a stunning setting, with a large raised deck overlooking the sea.

A staff member appeared, so I asked if it was okay for us to have a drink—they were more than happy to serve us. After our jungle trek, it ended up being the perfect place to rehydrate before continuing our little adventure.

Moving on, we headed further down the road where more resorts appeared, alongside local homes and a couple of shops and restaurants. I spotted a place that had been second on my list to stay—also on the sunset side of the island—so I said to Shane, “Let’s have a look.”

Basic bungalows were dotted along the hillside, with steep steps leading down to the beach. It was a lovely setting, but I wasn’t disappointed with where we’d chosen—I really like our little hut.

They had a nice beach bar with plenty of seating and hammocks, and the sea was so inviting that we ended up spending the rest of the day in this little piece of paradise. By the looks of things, this island is starting to have quite a few of those.

So that summed up our first day of exploring—we’d swum in two beautiful bays, trekked through the jungle (briefly), and even got to see monkeys. I’d say it was a good day!

That night in our hut, the heavens opened and the rain came down for hours. It was almost deafening as it pelted the tin roof, but it felt really cosy—and it definitely cleared the air. It seemed much cooler as we lay there listening to the downpour.

By morning, the tropical downpour had passed, and the day felt much fresher. It must have been brewing, as this time of year it steadily gets hotter and hotter on the approach to the rainy season.

It was still a little cloudy, so we had a lazy morning—grabbed coffees from our little beach café and chilled for a while on the lovely front porch, surrounded by the sounds of nature. It really was a little piece of heaven right here.

In fact, we decided to have a lazy day—relaxing on the porch, swimming, and making use of the deck chairs right here on our beach. Sometimes we don’t give ourselves enough downtime—the busy travellers that we’ve become—so when we do, it’s lovely.

The following day, we were refreshed and raring to go again. This time, we wanted to head in the opposite direction—back towards the pier and Walking Street—and cut across to the sunrise side of the island. From the map, we could see a small bay tucked around the headland at the most southern point so we figured we’d try to get there first.

It led us up a hill right on the headland—of course it did. Here we go again: heart-rate hill! I wouldn’t mind, but this island is relatively flat—yet we always seem to find the hills. There seem to be just two areas on the island with any real elevation, mainly in the jungle. At least we might get some views from the top. We heard the occasional rustle—my forever-on, high-alert wildlife radar kicked in. Ha! Lizards! We saw quite a few, which is always a good thing.

The road ended at the entrance to yet another luxury resort. Sod it—we’ll try and cut through, as we didn’t fancy going all the way back down and around. So we nonchalantly strolled in as if we were guests—ha, we wish—and managed to make it down to the little bay.

We couldn’t quite believe our eyes when we got down to the sand. This little bay had to be one of the most beautiful we’d ever seen. The sea was crystal clear—so clear you could see the rippling patterns on the sandy seabed. It was a tropical paradise, worthy of gracing the cover of any travel book. One side was flanked by a rugged rocky cliff that rose sharply, while the opposite side was lined with enormous boulders—some stacked like nature’s own sculpture. With just a single long-tail boat bobbing by the shore, it was picture perfect.

We spent quite a long time here, relaxing on the sand and swimming in the beautiful ocean—it was hard to drag ourselves away from this paradise. We’d also brought a snorkel from our accommodation which they loan for free. We was glad we did as there were many colourful fish just off the shore.

When we did finally drag ourselves away, we realised there was a way to the next bay just beyond the boulders, so we didn’t have to sneakily cut back through the resort. The next bay was equally as beautiful, with smooth, weathered boulders framing the water’s edge. We can understand now why people call this island the “Thai Maldives.”

Beyond these two secluded bays was the start of Sunrise Beach, which stretches along the whole east side of the island. The quieter southern end is dotted with resorts and the occasional beachside restaurant. Wandering north brought us back to where we’d enjoyed a beer on our first night, around the midway point. This section feels more local and a little more rustic—children were playing in the sea, fishing with just a simple line and a small shrimp for bait, while locals swept the sand in front of beachfront cafés. Many of the long-tail boats anchor here, bobbing in the sea with their colourful paintwork, ready to take eager passengers to nearby islands.

Toward the top of the beach, the view opened up even more as we walked past upscale resorts, framed by tall palm trees, making the most of the powdery white sand before them, leading to the perfect ocean. Dotted on the horizon were many small islets, and to the left, the view was framed by the large, forested island of Ko Adang, which rises from the sea with an almost Jurassic, untouched natural beauty.

Toward the top end, we came across a really quirky bar with a laid-back, hippy vibe, featuring lots of bean bags and artwork made from shells and other seaside bits and pieces. Reggae music played, and we could definitely smell the aroma of weed in the air. As cool as the place was, we decided to take a break next door for the most amazing smoothie. We left the relaxed crowd to enjoy their joints and Bob Marley.

By the time we reached the northern tip, where it meets the sunset side, we both agreed that this island is something special.

We wanted to do a boat trip while we were here, as many of the long-tail boats take you to nearby islands and reefs in the Tarutao National Marine Park.

Being on a long-tail boat is even better, as it means it’s only ever a small group—which we find more personal—and you tend to get to know each other by the time the day is out.

The trip we booked did exactly that. We snorkelled at several amazing reefs, each stop feeling like a new underwater world—schools of neon fish, sea anemones, and coral gardens in every shape and colour.

We swam with parrotfish and angelfish, and admired from a distance the fascinating black, spiny sea urchins.

Between snorkelling stops, we’d climb back onto the boat for fresh fruit and a breather, taking in the view of remote white sand beaches on the many small islands.

The tour took us past the iconic Koh Hin Son renowned for its two massive boulders that appear precariously balanced, with the bottom rock seemingly cracked yet supporting the one above it.

We had a mixed group of nationalities on the boat—people from Italy, Peru, and Argentina, along with ourselves. Spanish was the main language between them, but they made sure to include us in the conversation in English as well.

The Peruvians were a family—mum, dad, and their son. They were visiting their son, who is now studying at university in Japan. It was also the father’s 50th birthday—on that very day—so as part of his birthday celebrations they were touring nearby Asian countries, having already visited South Korea, Japan, and now Thailand.

It was the mother’s first time outside of Peru, and she was clearly loving the adventure of it all. Although a little apprehensive about snorkelling for the first time, she soon got into the swing of it and ended up really enjoying the experience. It was lovely to see.

For lunch, we moored up on Monkey Bay on Koh Dong island. This beach is renowned for its population of macaque monkeys that inhabit the surrounding jungle and often venture down to the shoreline. Signs are in place warning visitors to be careful with their belongings and to take all trash away with them.

After lunch, we took a walk down the beach, where we came across a large group of monkeys. They were definitely a cheeky, rowdy bunch, so you had to stay on guard and keep a respectful distance.

Shane, overstayed his welcome taking photos, and one of the larger monkeys—Big Papa Monkey—must have felt a bit threatened. Suddenly, it turned nasty and came running toward him. It all happened so fast, but Shane stood his ground. Holding his hand out toward the monkey, he calmly said, “Stop.” He did it twice, and to our relief, the monkey backed off. Phew—close call!

After lunch, we visited a small island made entirely of black, shiny pebbles—a strange and random sight to stumble upon. Then we headed to our final snorkelling stop, known for its rainbow coral. We’d been looking forward to this one, but it ended up being the worst of the day. There were just too many people, and the sea was quite choppy.

People were bumping into us while others were diving down to capture their perfect Instagram moments—some practically acting like mermaids, filmed by their friends with underwater cameras. It was quite amusing to watch at times, but also a bit annoying when they took over and ruined what should have been a moment to admire the natural beauty—not watch an Ariel lookalike try to be super elegant underwater.

Still it was an amazing day trip and we met some lovely people.

The following day, we had a low-key one, and I caught up on some writing—this relaxed front porch was the perfect spot. While I wrote, Shane was kept busy spending hours sifting through the masses of photographs. It’s part of our travelling life—a hobby, you could say. It gives us purpose as we explore each day, and seeing it all in print later becomes a memory brought to life—something we can look back on for years to come.

After a day in the office—as we like to call it—our reward was a nice meal and a few drinks in town. We headed down the beach, which always feels so chilled when the sun goes down.

We continued onto Walking Street and stumbled upon a great little bar, perfect for people-watching. It had a laid-back, boho vibe that instantly made you want to stay. Live music was starting shortly—bonus!

We grabbed a couple of seats near the front, ordered cold beers, and settled in. We got chatting with the couple next to us, who happened to be from Ormskirk. The conversation flowed, the band was great, and before long, the place was rocking.

We didn’t want to leave, but we really needed to get dinner—then the heavens opened. And I mean torrential rain. The band were due to stop playing, but because of the downpour, it looked like no one was prepared to leave the dry, sheltered bar. So, with that, the band kept going.

They started playing songs all related to the rain—Rod Stewart’s Have You Ever Seen the Rain, and then Rihanna’s Umbrella. That one really kicked things off. A few of the more fun-loving crowd ran outside to dance in the rain—some under umbrellas, and some just embracing the downpour.

It was brilliant. No one wanted to leave. We were all having far too much fun.

The rain hardly eased, so eventually we had no option but to head back in it. It had long passed dinnertime, but we didn’t mind—luckily, the 7-Eleven was on our route home and, thankfully, it’s open 24 hours.

Late at night, it’s a bit like the chippy or kebab house back home after the pubs close—everyone flocks in for supper. They do a decent selection of fast food and will even heat up burgers and toasties. Perfect! That would do us just fine as a one-off.

Our time on Koh Lipe was coming to an end so for our last day we revisited some of our favourite spots to swim and relax and later that evening we decide we would walk over to sunset beach to see the sunset-of course!

We went back to the place we’d originally planned to stay, as we knew it was the perfect spot. What we didn’t bank on, though, was the enormous barge that was now anchored just to the right—periodically transporting all the island’s waste to the mainland for disposal. Trash was being loaded back and forth, and every now and then, an unpleasant odour wafted our way. Typical that we’d chosen this night to watch the sunset.

Still, it didn’t completely ruin the experience. As the sun began to set, another storm started brewing. Just across the way, over on Ko Adang, dark, low clouds were forming and moving toward us at an eerie pace. Within minutes, parts of the island disappeared behind the mist as the sky rumbled and the wind picked up. We’d been sitting on the beach, like many others, and quickly had to dash under the cover of the bar as the rain began to fall.

It ended up being really cosy watching the storm instead of the sunset. We got chatting to an interesting crowd—one guy had survived the tsunami, and we were captivated as he shared his story, describing the tragic events of that dreadful day in history. Part of his visit back to Thailand was to return to the island where he’d survived, as he’d never been back since. He said he just wanted to see it.

So, we were stormed in again—in a bar again, of all places. How awful… ha!

Thankfully, it didn’t last quite as long as the last one, and when it eased off, we made our way back to Walking Street to get dinner in a proper restaurant—not a cheese toastie from 7-Eleven.

So that brought our time on Koh Lipe to a close—and what an amazing time we had! We were so glad we listened to all the people who told us we wouldn’t be disappointed by this small paradise island. It was absolutely worth the detour via Langkawi (though there are other ways to reach it, of course).

We’ll definitely feel a little sad to leave the beauty and tranquillity of this place. Even our little hut started to feel like home, and we managed just fine with only a fan—though I think the frequent nightly downpours helped with that!

We’re not quite done with the islands yet. There’s one more to visit before we make our way back to the mainland: Koh Lanta, a three-hour boat ride away. It’s a much bigger island than Koh Lipe, but it’s said to be quiet and laid-back. We’re looking forward to exploring it.

Koh Lanta.

Long beach.

The boat to Koh Lanta was much smaller than the one we’d taken from Langkawi, and as far as I was concerned, I thought I’d booked the same kind.

Everyone was crammed onto seats around the edges and benches in the middle. We were right at the back, near the three enormous outboard engines, and I was a bit worried we’d be stuck in the sun. Oh well—so long as it got us there in one piece, it was fine.

Once we got going, we realised this boat could really shift. It was much faster than the ferry I’d been hoping for, and since we stayed in the shade, all was good. The engines were a bit deafening, but we arrived in Koh Lanta in around two and a half hours—much quicker than I’d expected, so that was a bonus. We just had to put up with our ears ringing for the rest of the day.

We made our way to the road outside the ferry port and were immediately met by hordes of taxi guys, all eager to whisk us away on our merry way.

We always like to take a minute to check the taxi apps and weigh our options before agreeing to anything.

To my dismay, none of the ride-hailing apps worked here, so we were back to negotiating—something we hate, as it usually means getting ripped off.

As predicted, that’s exactly what everyone was trying to do. We were being quoted prices three to four times higher than they should’ve been for a short trip of just a few miles to our resort.

I stood firm and managed to negotiate a price that was still double what we’d normally expect to pay, but at least it wasn’t four times the cost.

We were staying at Long Beach (Phra Ae Beach) which is one of the most popular places to stay on the island. It’s a long, wide beach (hence the name), with soft sand and gently sloping waters—great for swimming. Reading about Koh Lanta it sounded much more laid-back than other tourist hotspots but still lively enough that you’re not isolated.

At first glance, we could see that the resort area was centred around the main road, which was lined with shops, restaurants, and a few bars. We hoped the beach would be just as lively, with beachfront restaurants where we could watch the sunset.

We were staying in a great location, around the middle of the resort and just a short stroll from the beach. The hotel was set among lovely gardens with an inviting pool—and most importantly, the air-con was back.

Koh Lanta is a much bigger island than Koh Lipe, It stretches about 27 kilometers (17 miles) in length and up to 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) in width.

It’s big enough to explore by scooter or car, with a road that runs along the west coast connecting the beaches and towns. The island is part of Krabi Province and actually consists of two main islands: Koh Lanta Yai (where most tourists stay) and Koh Lanta Noi (quieter and more rural).

We were keen to explore on foot from our resort, and this area offered much more opportunity for that.

The first thing we wanted to do was check out the beach. We only had to walk down a small lane at the back of the hotel, which led directly to the sea.

You can’t really compare the beach here to Koh Lipe—it’s much bigger, with more golden sand, and it’s lined with coconut palms and casuarina trees (also known as Australian pines) that provide natural shade.

Still beautiful—and just as we expected, it’s lined with resorts and a good selection of beach bars and restaurants. Perfect for dining and watching the sunset.

Since we were staying near the midpoint of the beach, we could easily explore in either direction. That afternoon, we decided to head left, toward the headland where White Beach came to an end.

We planned to explore further another day, as it was already late in the afternoon.

We couldn’t quite make it to the end of the beach, as the tide was in and a rocky section blocked the way. So, we decided to cut through to the main road, which we knew ran parallel to the beach.

It seemed quite lively here, with a good selection of bars. Happy hour was just starting at an Irish bar we stumbled across (we’re good at doing that!), so we figured it would be rude not to stop for some light refreshments.

Like many Irish pubs, western comfort food was on the menu: shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, and even a traditional roast dinner.

Now, I’ve always been a spice fiend, so Thai food is still my go-to—even after all this time on the road—but Shane spotted the triple-cooked chips and couldn’t resist. We ordered a portion to share.

OMG, what a choice! These were hands down the best chips we’d had on our travels—knocking the ones we had in Laos into second place (also from an Irish pub, funnily enough). Makes sense—the Irish know what to do with a potato! Bonus points for also having HP sauce—what a treat!

We were a couple of drinks in, live music had started and the place was getting pretty full. Then all of a sudden the heavens opened. Been a theme this week. Here we go again rained in a bar-ha ha!

So we ordered another drink and decided to sit it out, but once again, there was no let-up. Eventually, we had no choice but to head out in the rain.

The rainwater was so warm it wasn’t unpleasant, but it was starting to puddle heavily, flooding the pavements, and our shoes squelched with every step. We looked like drowned rats by the time we made it back to the hotel.

We had initially planned to stop for Thai food, but being completely soaked, we decided against it. At least we’d had those chips—wish we’d ordered a portion each now—ha!

The following morning, the air felt refreshed, and although it was a little cloudy, it was probably the best kind of weather for a good walk.

We found a great café serving a hearty full English breakfast and decided to treat ourselves, having missed out on supper the night before.

It didn’t disappoint—this tasty belly buster would most definitely fuel our walk and make us feel a little less guilty about it!

We started our walk back along the beach, but in the opposite direction as last time. We hadn’t been walking long when I spotted an eagle—“Quick, Shane, get the big lens!” Ha! We really need to get this whole camera malarkey sorted.

It was the same old story: by the time we were organised and had the big lens in place, the eagle was gone.

However, all was not lost—out of the corner of my eye, I saw a sudden movement and said, “Lizard! Quick, Shane!”

Oh my god, I’m becoming a proper wildlife geek—ha! But this lizard was different to any we’d seen before. It was orange in colour and really beautiful.

We managed to photograph it as it climbed a nearby tree. I Googled it and found out it was a Calotes, sometimes known as forest lizards or even “bloodsuckers” because of their red heads.

Happy with our little wildlife moment, we continued along the beach. Toward the top end, we passed quite a few bars and restaurants that looked like perfect spots to return to in the evening, especially for sunset.

At the very end of the beach, it met a steep, rocky outcrop where we couldn’t go any further, so we had to cut back through to the main road.

Along the pathway, we spotted some beautiful birds—especially kingfishers. We were at it again, swapping camera lenses. Luckily, we managed to snap a few shots. Still no eagle… but I’m sure that time will come!

Today, we were following a walk that took us across the road from the beach, along a route that ran beneath the thick, forested hillside forming the resort’s backdrop.

The weather took a turn and became a bit hit and miss—it kept threatening to rain, with heavy clouds forming, but luckily we kept dodging the downpours.

It was a pleasant walk, passing by local homes in a much more rural setting. We walked through forested areas where trees had been tapped, with small channels cut into the bark to collect sap.

We later found out they’re most likely collecting rubber latex, as the island—and much of southern Thailand—is home to many rubber tree plantations. These trees are tapped for their milky white latex, which is collected in small cups attached to the trunks.

We spotted a few monkeys along the way, along with lots more birds including eagles. The walk looped back to the main road on the opposite side of the resort.

We passed the Irish bar again, we were thankful it wasn’t yet happy hour—so no temptation. The chips were a slight temptation though, but we blinkered ourselves and carried on back to the hotel. Wouldn’t want to ruin our Thai supper!

We didn’t manage to get a good picture of an eagle with our timing and the lighting conditions, but that can wait for another day!

Back at the hotel, we had a quick freshen-up and then set off to find some proper Thai food to make up for the near-chip detour.

We wandered down a little side street just off the main road and found a small, family-run place with plastic chairs and the smell of sizzling garlic wafting from the kitchen—always a good sign.

We both ordered spicy dishes that had just the right kick to make our noses run (a sure sign of success).

No regrets about skipping the chips… well, maybe just a tiny one.

The next day, we wanted to venture south from our beach and continue around the headland.

You could see on the map a series of small bays, so we were eager to explore those.

It was a lovely spot, right at the very far end of Long Beach—we hadn’t quite made it this far last time due to the tide.

We sat there for a while and enjoyed the view. After that, we headed back up to the main road to continue along it for a short while before cutting down to the next bay, which was called Relax Bay.

Well, this was a little gem—tucked away just around the headland. Much smaller and more secluded, with just a couple of beach restaurants, it had chilled vibes—true to its name—with a wonderfully laid-back atmosphere.

We walked the short stretch of beach to where a small group of fishing boats was anchored, and the path led past a cluster of palm trees, cutting across to the next bay.

This was an even smaller bay called Secret Beach. It wasn’t exactly a secret—there were a couple of other tourists enjoying the sea—but maybe it was a little secret, as it could’ve easily been packed if more people knew about this little beauty.

From Secret Beach, we spotted a pathway leading over the next headland—thankfully, we didn’t have to walk all the way back to the main road.

Cattle roamed here among the clusters of palm trees. It was a very tropical setting—unspoiled and raw—we were really enjoying this walk.

The next little bay it led down to was called Beautiful Beach. And yes—they named it well. It was indeed a beautiful beach.

A few more people seemed to know about this one, but it was still very quiet and unspoiled. With a couple of beach shacks serving refreshments, it was another little gem.

This was the last of the small bays, as the next beach our walk would lead us to was Klong Khong Beach—basically the next resort along after Long Beach, with another long stretch of sand.

We’d come so far, we decided to take a quick look before making our way back. It was a bit more of a climb over the headland to reach this beach. We spotted a path leading back to the main road, but we really didn’t want to make the walk any longer—so we went in search of a cut-through.

We did manage it, but had to carefully climb our way through a barbed wire fence (clearly meant to stop people from going that way). Still, no one saw us… and it definitely saved our legs!

Klong Khong Beach was a nice beach, with a much more rustic charm than Long Beach.

The vibe was more casual, boho, and very relaxed. We read that it’s popular with backpackers and digital nomads—and you could see why, it was the perfect place for that kind of laid-back lifestyle.

We didn’t walk too far down the beach, as we were mindful of the distance we’d need to cover to get back, but we passed a few beach bars and bamboo-style cafés along the way.

Trekking the sandy bays was tough going in the soft sand, and it had taken its toll for the day, so we decided to return via the road—even if it wasn’t as interesting.

It was a long walk back. You don’t always realise how much ground you’ve covered until you have to do it in reverse. It seemed to take forever, and without the sea breeze, it was absolutely sweltering.

Spotting a 7-Eleven in the distance pretty much saved the day—a big icy drink and a quick stop gave us just enough fuel to keep going.

We passed the Irish bar once again and almost did an about-turn to share another portion of those delicious chips—but no, we resisted temptation. A dip in the pool was calling out far more than a plate of triple-cooked gorgeousness… only just—ha!

Most of our time here so far had been spent walking—but it’s what we enjoy.

There’s never any major rush as we wander, taking in new sights and sounds at our own pace.

Our last day at Long Beach was going to be no different. We wanted to walk to the beach on the other side of the headland, which continues on from Long Beach. This beach is called Khlong Dao Beach, and it stretches all the way to the northern tip of the island, back in the direction of the main ferry terminal.

Today would be interesting though as it was Songkran, the Thai New Year, which is celebrated every April with a nationwide water fight—and Koh Lanta joins in with its own island twist.

The atmosphere is more relaxed here compared to the big cities, but still full of energy. Locals and tourists alike line the roads with buckets, hoses, and water guns, ready to soak anyone passing by—especially those on scooters (no one is safe!).

We thought we’d join in the fun and walk along the main road for the first part of our walk.

Yes, we got a soaking a couple of times—and talc came into the mix, splashed across our faces—ha!

It was all in good fun, and it definitely helped cool us down.

We then made our way from the main road to the beginning of Klong Dao Beach.

This beach is a wide, crescent-shaped bay with soft, light golden sand. Lining the beach were plenty of beachfront resorts, along with numerous restaurants and bars. It had a chilled, family-friendly vibe and felt slightly more laid-back, with a low-key charm.

We walked to the very end before retracing our steps back along the sand, then heading back to the road—where we were welcomed by another soaking from the many groups still set up with large buckets of water, drenching passersby.

Later that evening, we headed back to the beach to catch the sunset. There’s a lovely atmosphere as the sun begins to dip—some people come out just for this moment like ourselves, while others haven’t even left the beach all day, still in their swimwear, waiting for the daily spectacle.

We’ve seen some amazing sunsets on our travels, and this one certainly didn’t disappoint.

After the sun went down, and with it being our last evening, we decided to walk back to the Irish bar and give in to temptation—with a plate each of those delicious chips. It felt like the perfect final treat to end our time at Long Beach.

Although We weren’t quite done with Koh Lanta yet, as we wanted to explore a bit more towards the southern tip near Mu Ko Lanta National Park, so we decided to spend a few nights at Kantiang Bay.

Kantiang Bay.

Negotiating a taxi fare to Kantiang Bay wasn’t as straightforward as we’d hoped—the prices fluctuated massively, even though it was only a 35-40 minute drive. Many drivers tried to justify the high cost by saying, ‘It’s very far!’

In the end, we came across a driver who offered a fairer price right off the bat, so we swapped details and booked the ride.

We decided to spend a little more time in Koh Lanta as we were trying to work out how best to use our remaining time in Thailand. We knew we needed to get back to the mainland by a certain date, as we had a flight from Krabi back to Bangkok. Having visited Ao Nang in Krabi last year, we didn’t feel we needed too much time there, so we ultimately decided to split our remaining days between Kantiang bay here on Koh Lanta and Ao Nang, which is conveniently close to the airport.

We decided on Kantiang Bay as I’d read that it is one of the most picturesque and serene spots on Koh Lanta. It also looked like we could walk to a few different bays in the area so why not.

The accommodation we booked sounded perfect: a small resort with around 10 bungalows set in peaceful gardens. I’d read in the reviews that monkeys often visit—sold! Get me there—ha!

The drive there was along the coastal road that runs the entire length of the island. We passed by places where we’d been walking over the last few days, waved goodbye to the Irish bar, and continued on to new pastures. There were a few resorts along this stretch of road that looked like they had enough going on, very similar to Long beach.

As we approached Kantiang, the road began to wind and climb before dropping down to the bay. It looked beautiful, with lush, forest-covered mountains forming the backdrop.

The bungalows were great—spacious inside, with everything we needed, and a lovely front porch with chairs and a hammock seat to hopefully sit and watch the monkeys. The setting was beautiful, nestled among large fruit trees full of ripe mangoes—no wonder the monkeys visit!

There were no monkeys about just yet, but we were told by the owners that they come early in the morning and late afternoon, so fingers crossed we’d see them later.

After a quick unpack, we were off out to explore once again. The beach was only a five-minute walk from the bungalow. Even though it’s a small village-like resort, there was a good handful of amenities—shops, restaurants, and even a 7-Eleven, always a welcome sight in Asia.

We followed a path tucked between a resort and a beach bar, which led us straight onto the sand and to a unique wooden beach carving that added a touch of character to the shoreline.

The beach itself was a beautiful crescent shape, with a couple of beach bars and upscale resorts tastefully set back behind palm trees and built into the hillside, blending in without infringing on the natural beauty.

We walked to the end of the beach passing by a few more pieces of beach art to where we could rejoin the road. We were starting to feel hungry, and up on the hillside we spotted a couple of restaurants that we imagined must have amazing views. The only trouble was, to get to them we had to contend with a very steep hill—here we go again, this’ll get the heart racing!

Phew! It was so hot, leaving us drenched in sweat by the time we reached the top. We took a minute to catch our breath in the shade of the large trees and cool down so we didn’t walk into the restaurant looking like a hot mess!

Inside the restaurant, we were rewarded with the most amazing view of the bay. What an incredible spot they had here. We managed to get a great table and enjoyed a delicious, reasonably priced lunch. In some parts of the world, you’d pay an arm and a leg to enjoy lunch in such an idyllic location.

We had to drag ourselves away from this perfect spot, but at least we were heading downhill now. We decided to stick to the road on the way back to explore a little more. What we didn’t realise was that the road started climbing again. Whose bright idea was it not to return via the beach? The route seemed to go on forever—twisting, turning, and throwing in a few more hills—before finally leading us back into the village. One thing’s for sure: we wouldn’t take that way again! Still, think positive—it probably burned off a bit of lunch!

Back at the bungalow, it looks like we’ve missed the monkeys—they’ve been and gone. Aww, never mind. The owners assured us we’ll see them while we’re here.

We took a walk down to the beach that evening to grab dinner and check out the vibe. Evenings here are quiet and laid-back. A couple of the beach bars were pretty full, and there was live music—chilled and mellow. The atmosphere was relaxed, with groups lounging on beanbags scattered across the beach.

We didn’t stay out too long, as it had been a long day—and we wanted to be up bright and breezy the following morning, hoping to see our cheeky friends.

Well, we didn’t have to worry about that, as we were woken by banging sounds on the roof of the bungalow. Thud, thud—it sounded like they were going to drop through the roof and land in bed with us!

I scrambled out of bed as fast as I could, clambering into my clothes and almost falling—you can imagine the scene. I was like a kid on Christmas morning! You’d think I’d never seen a monkey before.

Outside, we were not disappointed. We watched an entire group jumping from the mango trees onto the bungalow roof, then leaping onto the next tree. The loud noises we’d heard were not just the monkeys, but also the thud of mangos hitting the roof—some dropped by accident, others tossed aside after a few bites. The trees were bursting with ripe fruit—no wonder they were having a field day!

They were also enjoying the fruit from the tall palm trees just behind us. We loved watching them race to the top to retrieve these tasty treats, all ripe for the picking. Little heads would pop out between the large palm leaves—they were super cute.

We were thrilled to have gotten our monkey fix—a perfect start to the day!

Today we wanted to walk to the next couple of bays along, heading towards the national park. After yesterday’s walk, we already knew it was going to be a hilly one—how hilly, we were about to find out. Feeling hot already!

We walked towards the hilltop restaurant where we’d dined yesterday—this time taking the route by the beach. We’d learned our lesson from the day before!

From here, it was all new territory. One thing was clear though—the hill climbed a bit more, then twisted out of sight. We couldn’t tell if it continued climbing or if that was where it finally plateaued.

Thankfully, that was where it plateaued—geez, that was some climb. My heart rate was drumming so loudly in my head, and we both had to take a minute. We were already soaked in sweat.

It was also right here that we found some steps leading down to the first bay, called Nui Bay. Great… that means steps down now, and steps back up later. I think this is going to be the theme of the day.

There were a couple of mopeds parked at the top, so we mustn’t be the only ones at the bay. Nui Bay is a very secluded spot, and we could have easily missed the steps leading down to it if the mopeds hadn’t been there.

It was worth the trek down to this secluded, tranquil spot. There was one beach shack, but it didn’t look like it was in operation anymore. A few people were taking shade under a couple of bamboo shelters that seemed to belong to the shack. It was serene—a peaceful escape from the busier bays.

We took shelter for a few minutes to enjoy our surroundings. But that was short-lived, as more and more people began to appear, all hoping to find the same shade. It won’t be long before under these trees feels like Piccadilly Circus—minus the pigeons, ha!

It didn’t matter to us—we hadn’t planned to spend all day here. As much as we’d have loved to, we had more steps and hills to climb. Oh no… my heart had better thank me for it later!

As we collected our belongings and moved on, our spot was immediately taken. To be honest, I can’t blame them—there wasn’t much shade to be had.

Back at the top of the gruelling steps, we took a quick rest before moving on. Thankfully, the road continued downhill—it was all downhill to the next bay, Klong Chak Beach.

This beach was longer than Nui Bay, with just one resort—a very nice one at that—and otherwise relatively undeveloped. There were a few small beach bars and restaurants, but it still felt very serene, surrounded by lush greenery.

It was a lovely stretch of beach to walk along, and the welcome sea breeze gave us a chance to cool down a little. The beach bars we passed all looked quirky and inviting, but we decided to head to the one at the far end of the beach, where a few people were already chilling. It looked like the perfect spot to stop and hydrate.

It was hard to drag ourselves back up after taking the weight off for a while, but onwards we must go—intrepid explorers, ha!

As we made our way back to the road, we saw it climbed again—good job we’d just had that drink. Deep breaths and push on through! I tried not to look up, hoping it might somehow bring me to the brow of the hill quicker… yeah, as if!

Thankfully, it wasn’t too bad before the road began its descent. The next bay came into view, but to reach it, we had to take a very steep pathway—sometimes trickier than climbing up, especially with that added feeling you might tumble forward.

Just here we passed a group of cheeky monkeys high up in the trees—always a bonus!

This beach is called Bamboo Beach which is the last beach before the Mu Koh Lanta National Park and most probably as far as we’d get for today.

Yet again a beautiful bay framed by lush green hills and rainforest with a few small resorts and beach bars, the beach maintained its untouched charm.

There were quite a few people, but it wasn’t too crowded. One beach bar was especially busy, with many stopping for lunch.

This was the perfect spot to down sticks for a few hours. The water was so inviting, and the waves were quite high—making it fun as we dove into them rather than being thrown back onto the beach.

We were debating whether to walk on to the national park since we were so close. It wasn’t far in terms of distance, but the map said it was another 45-minute trek—over more hills—and that would mean 45 minutes back just to here, which felt like too much (and probably would mean walking home in the dark). We knew there were sightings of dusky leaf monkeys in the park—that was the only reason we were considering it—but we figured it wasn’t the most sensible choice at this time of day. Taxis are much more limited here, and we couldn’t guarantee we’d find one. So, reluctantly, we decided that once we’d dried off and rehydrated at the busy beach bar, it was best to head back.

The walk back wasn’t as bad as we’d thought—maybe because we stuck to the main road and skipped revisiting the other bays. Knowing where the hills are definitely helps, since you know what to expect. Even so, we were drenched in sweat by the time Kantiang Beach came into view—such a welcoming sight… almost home!

For the final stretch, we walked along the beach instead of tackling that hilly road again.

It was already getting late by the time we got back, so deciding not to continue on to the national park was definitely the right call. I’m sure we’ll get another chance to see dusky leaf monkeys, but for now we’ll keep enjoying the cheeky antics of the macaques back at the bungalow.

The following day, we had our lovely monkey wake‑up call. It was great to sit out on our little terrace and watch the monkeys feeding on juicy mangoes while we sipped endless cups of tea and planned our adventure for the day.

We decided to walk in the opposite direction, since we’d heard Nui Beach (not to be confused with Nui Bay) was worth a visit. The road that way was also a little less hilly—just a bit.

So we set off with aching legs from yesterday—sure they’d loosen up as we got going. The road led along the top end of the village, which was nice since we hadn’t ventured up there before, and there were quite a few resorts and restaurants. We continued until we could cut down to the first beach, called Khlong Hin Beach. It was quieter here, with a more off‑the‑beaten‑path feel. We found a small shack selling drinks, where we took a break and enjoyed the sea breeze.

We were able to continue along the beach, which was backed by coconut palms. The sound of cicadas and birds added to the tropical feel. We’ve gotten so used to many of the sounds that sometimes we don’t even notice them—but when we take a moment and I say, “just listen,” it’s pretty amazing. And that’s exactly what was happening right here.

At the very end of the beach, the path led around some rocks to two small, secluded bays—each with a small resort that had clearly taken advantage of the beautiful setting, offering guests an almost private beach. We love stumbling across places like this; you’d easily miss them from the road.

We had to re-join the road due to the rocks on the headland, but a short walk brought us to Nui Beach. We were elevated again at this point, and although we knew the beach was below, we couldn’t immediately see how to get down to it. Up ahead, we spotted signs for a restaurant, which we hoped might provide access. As luck would have it, the restaurant had signs saying “To Beach”—plus, we were ready for another drink, so it was perfect.

The restaurant was amazing, perched on the cliffside with the most incredible view over the beach. It had a series of levels, all set up for dining. From here, we finally saw the beach below, and it was stunning—pure white sand and turquoise water.

The restaurant had steps at the back leading all the way down to the beach, which was super convenient. They were steep and there were quite a few, but we were just happy it was accessible.

We found a makeshift bamboo shelter on the beach that no one was using. Inside was a fallen log to sit on—perfect! This would do us nicely for an hour or so while we swam in the inviting ocean and dried off.

The beach truly was a hidden gem, tucked between rocky headlands and offering a gorgeous, secluded setting that felt like a tropical postcard. Other than the restaurant at the top, there were no facilities directly on the beach, which added to the feeling of it being a secret hideaway.

There were only a few other people enjoying the beach. After we’d dried off, we packed up and, before heading back the way we came—up the restaurant steps—we decided to check if we’d missed another pathway. Sure enough, toward the far end of the beach, there was a small path leading through the jungle and back to the road. Where it brought us out, I spotted the tiniest sign saying “Nui Beach”—no wonder we’d missed it!

Anyway, we were back on the road, so it didn’t really matter—and it was definitely an easier route than the mammoth number of steps through the restaurant.

It wasn’t that late in the day, so we decided to continue along the coastal road to Klong Nin Beach, which was essentially the next resort area. It had a variety of beach bars, restaurants, and accommodations ranging from simple bungalows to boutique resorts.

We’d noticed this area during the drive to Kantiang Bay. It had a similar feel to Long Beach, with a mix of beachside spots and places lining the road that runs through town.

It was still a lovely beach, but not quite as beautiful or secluded as the small bays we’d discovered over the past few days.

This was definitely as far as we were walking in this direction—we were very aware of the walk back! When I looked at the map, I realised the next beach was the one we’d reached when we walked from Long Beach. So, apart from this little stretch, we’d pretty much walked the whole coast on this side of Koh Lanta—phew!

The walk back felt longer this time—maybe because we were getting tired. We’d covered quite a few miles, and walking in the high temperatures definitely takes its toll.

When we arrived back in Kantiang, we remembered a lovely bistro that had been busy when we passed it earlier. It was still bustling, so they must be doing something right. We decided to stop and get an early dinner as we were famished. It was a great decision and didn’t disappoint. Plus, it meant that once we got back to the bungalow, we wouldn’t have to move for the rest of the night.

My plan was to pick up a few ciders and beers from 7-Eleven, then flop on the front porch and listen to nothing but the sounds of the wildlife. That’s exactly what we did—and it was great. The perfect end to the day.

The following day—our last day—was going to be a proper rest day. Yay! We weren’t planning to move off the front porch all day. We definitely chose well staying here. Surrounded by nature, our bungalow almost felt like a cabin in the woods.

The day was perfect: drinking tea, me writing, and Shane going through his copious amount of photos.

Late in the afternoon, we were entertained by the return of the monkeys. Thuds on the roof and mangos dropping left, right, and centre. They were out in full force and being a bit boisterous. Shane was back out taking a million more pictures—fair play, he got some crackers! I love the one where a monkey was chilling in the hammock chair, just having a minute.

There’s so much fruit around that they’re spoiled for choice. We saw them eating sweet potato, jackfruit, and of course, the juicy mangoes. I asked if it was mango season, and it is—but in a few more weeks, they’ll be gone. Still, I’m sure other fruit will ripen by then. It looks like the monkeys do just fine here!

For our last evening, we wanted to walk up the hill behind our bungalow, where there was a restaurant perched on the hilltop with amazing views over the bay—an ideal spot to watch the sunset. Unfortunately, the sun was already dipping fast below the horizon, so if we wanted to catch it, we had to get a move on.

We made our way up the hill—which was tough going with our achy legs—only to see the sun just disappearing. The restaurant was completely empty, which was a shame as it really has one of the best locations around.

Not fancying dining alone, we made our way back down the hill and managed to get a table at a busy little place just around the corner from the bungalow—which, at least, was handy for home.

So that brought our time in Kantiang Bay and Koh Lanta to an end. I’m glad we got to see a few different sides of the island. Having walked almost one whole side of it, I’d say we’ve explored it pretty well. It’s more laid-back here than some of the other islands, but we’ve enjoyed it—we like to mix it up.

Tomorrow we’ve got an early start, as we’re being picked up at 6 a.m. to travel back to Ao Nang in Krabi where we will spend our last few days there before flying back to Bangkok.

Krabi.

We travelled from Koh Lanta to Krabi by minibus. I’d messed up when I made the booking and selected a 6 a.m. pick-up—oh no! That meant we had to set the alarm. I don’t even think the monkeys would be up—ha!

So we were waiting outside the hotel at 5:45 a.m., just like they told us. It was actually quite nice listening to the wildlife, which was in full chorus as dawn broke.

We waited and waited, and finally the minibus showed up at 6:45 a.m.—must have been on Thai time. So much for getting up early!

To reach the mainland, the minibus took the car ferry that operates between Koh Lanta Noi and the mainland near Hua Hin Pier. The ferry crossing took 10–15 minutes, and from there, it was less than two hours to Ao Nang.

As we neared Ao Nang, the striking and iconic limestone karsts came into view. OMG, I’d forgotten how beautiful this landscape is. These dramatic rock formations, draped in lush greenery and rising sharply from the land, are truly breath-taking.

We were staying in the same area of Ao Nang as last time. It’s a large resort area, and we were open to staying anywhere—it just worked out that way with the accommodation I found.

One good thing about the early pickup was that at least we had a full day. Unfortunately, it was too early to check in, so we just left our bags and headed out—may as well make the most of the early start. It was nice to be back somewhere familiar; in some ways, it felt like we’d only been here yesterday.

When I was looking at accommodation, I realised that there’s another side to Ao Nang we hadn’t explored last time we were here, so we decided to walk in that direction to check it out.

Ao Nang is the most popular tourist resort in Krabi, so there was no shortage of tourists out and about, starting their day. Trendy bistros were already bustling, serving up Western-style breakfasts.

I’d forgotten just how many restaurants there are here, most offering Western dishes alongside Thai. Indian food is also big on the menu, as Indian tourism has increased rapidly over the last few years. Still plenty of Thai options though — that suited us just fine, as we’re still loving the food!

We made our way down to the beachfront and walked the length of the promenade to the end of the bay. The limestone karsts continue here, creating a dramatic backdrop to the resort and stretching out to sea. This was as far as we’d gone last time, so from here on it was all new territory. We’d only spent three days here previously, most of it on boat trips, so we hadn’t really had the chance to explore properly — it was nice to finally do that now.

The road from here winds around the rocky headland to the next bay. We were really impressed with this side — there were plenty of hotels, bars, restaurants, and shops, but it all felt a bit more laid-back and not so built-up. The next beach was beautiful, with lots of familiar long-tail boats anchored offshore and a long stretch of fine white sand, backed by another promenade — this one tree-lined with plenty of benches to rest along the way.

We walked the entire length of the promenade, which led to Noppharat Thara Beach at the end of the bay. It was a Sunday, so lots of locals were here, picnicking and relaxing with their families away from the busier, more touristy parts of town. The beach was a beautiful little spot, much quieter — very much a hidden gem.

We decided to head back and explore along the other side of the road across from the promenade. It seemed more family-oriented, with a few fairground attractions dotted about. A little further up, we came across the Landmark Night Market, which also had a modern shopping area—and lo and behold, what do we see? The same Irish pub as in Koh Lanta, the one with the amazing chips! We hadn’t realised they had a branch here. We were ready to get something to eat, so it would have been rude not to stop in—it also helped pass some time before check-in.

Unfortunately, they weren’t a patch on Koh Lanta’s, but nevertheless, they filled a spot. By the time we got back to the hotel, it was the afternoon and our room was ready. We were glad to relax — having gotten up at daft o’clock, it already felt like we’d had a full day.

After a welcome rest, we were refreshed and ready to check out the nightlife. We didn’t have to walk far before we came across a food court with an alley that led to an area filled with bars. We’d missed this last time — I think we must have assumed it was all just dining. It wasn’t that late — the sun was only just going down — but there were enough people milling about, and it was a good people-watching spot, so we decided to stop for a drink.

We stayed a couple of hours, but then hunger called. It was only just starting to fill up as we were leaving since it was still relatively early — we could imagine it would be buzzing much later. You could also tell it had a sleazy side that would surface later. We’d be in bed by then — old timers, ha!

The following day, I had a plan in place. You may or may not know this, but we love monkeys — and right here in Ao Nang is the Monkey Trail. It’s a scenic short walk that connects Ao Nang Beach to the more secluded Pai Plong Beach (sometimes called Centara Beach because it fronts the Centara Grand Resort).

A wooden boardwalk and trail climb over the headland at the southern end of Ao Nang Beach, and it takes about 10–15 minutes to walk across.

Hence the name, you’ll often see macaque monkeys along the path, especially in the early morning or late afternoon. We had only just arrived at the start of the trail when we found a large group of them. You have to be careful with bags, snacks, or loose items, as they can be cheeky and snatch things. You can tell they’re used to people here, and a few of the younger ones didn’t mind being picked up — although I don’t think that’s a wise thing to do, as they can still be unpredictable if they feel threatened.

We were happy to observe them from a safe distance, watching them play and groom each other. As usual, we took far too many photos before finally dragging ourselves onto the trail.

It was only a short trail, but my, there were a lot of steps — though it was worth it when Pai Plong Beach came into view, another hidden gem we’d missed on our last visit.

This beautiful small bay, nestled among limestone karsts and tall coconut palms, with soft white sand and an inviting ocean — it doesn’t get much better than this. While it’s mostly used by guests of the Centara Grand Resort, day visitors are welcome on the beach. After the trail, we couldn’t wait to cool off in the inviting sea.

We spent a couple of hours before returning along the trail (the only access in and out), although I’m sure hotel guests come and go by boat.

For the afternoon, I planned for us to visit Tonsai Beach, which is located between Ao Nang and Railay. It’s especially beloved by rock climbers, backpackers, and travellers looking for a quieter, more rustic alternative to its famous neighbour, Railay Beach.

You can only reach Tonsai by longtail boat, so we made our way to the longtail boat ticket office at the end of Ao Nang Beach.

As with all the longtail boats, you purchase your ticket and then have to wait until they have a minimum number of people (normally 6–8) before setting off.

It wasn’t a long wait before we had enough people, and we were on our way. The same boat was heading on to Railay Beach after dropping us off first at Tonsai.

There were two reasons we wanted to visit Tonsai: first, because we’d never been before, and second, because I’d read that dusky leaf langur monkeys are often sighted here. If you’ve been following our story, you’ll know the extremes we’ll go to just to see these cute guys. We spent most of our time in Langkawi searching for these amazing monkeys — and while we did see them, it was only from a distance, and we never managed to get a good photo. So, we were very much on ‘Mission Dusky Leaf’ — and trust me, we won’t stop until we see them properly! Ha!

Surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs, jungle, and turquoise water, Tonsai is stunning. As much as it would have been amazing to relax we wasn’t here for that so we headed towards the jungle in search of the Dusty’s.

Being shy monkeys they tend to stay high in the trees away from people, very much the opposite to the Macaques.

What we didn’t expect was the vibe — Tonsai has a chilled, bohemian feel with a small community of climbers, reggae bars, budget bungalows, and simple beach restaurants. It’s far less polished and developed than Ao Nang or Railay, but we liked the feel of it and would definitely consider staying here in the future.

We found a pathway leading into the jungle, which wasn’t completely isolated as it passed a few small resorts with bamboo huts. We were constantly on the lookout and listening. People might think we’re mad, but whenever we go in search of wildlife, it’s the most exciting thing for us.

The jungle was getting thicker so we had to be on the lookout for snakes, there was an odd rustle here and there which happened to be lizards.

We could see a hut in the distance with a small fire burning. We weren’t sure if it was private property, and we didn’t want to encroach on anyone’s land, so we decided we’d better turn around. That’s when we heard someone call out, ‘Hello!’ — and it turned out to be a guy in the hut from London of all places, just chilling with his mate and smoking weed. So random — ha! We got chatting and told him we were looking for the langurs. He said the best place to spot them is actually down at the beach, mainly early in the morning, but there’s also a chance in the late afternoon.

So, with that advice, we did an about-turn and headed back towards the beach. We wanted to spend some time there anyway. Back at the beach, we downed sticks for a while, keeping an eye out just in case any monkeys ventured toward the beach — we live in hope!

We stayed quite a while and we hadn’t seen any langurs, so we decided we’d have to call it a day and headed back to the bottom end of the beach where you catch the longtail boat back to Ao Nang.

Just there was a lane with tall trees, so I suggested we take one last look. We’d seen macaque monkeys here earlier, not langurs, so we weren’t holding out much hope.

Just alongside the lane was the walled garden of one of the resorts. There was a gap in the wall, so I said to Shane, ‘I’m having a quick look in here.’ As soon as I walked into the grounds, I spotted a couple of monkeys coming over the wall. Not sure if they were macaques, I took a closer look. OMG — they were langurs! I couldn’t believe it. I quickly went back to tell Shane; I didn’t want to shout for fear of scaring them off.

“‘Shane, get the big lens!’ — ha! We had it, we were using it, and we were determined to capture these amazing monkeys come hell or high water.

There were just two of them, up in one of the fruit tree, happily munching on berries. The guy in the hut had told us they’re a bit more used to people here and not quite as shy as usual, so fingers crossed they wouldn’t bolt. Oh, it was pure magic watching them — the way they nibbled at the fruit, totally unbothered by us. We kept as quiet as possible, barely moving, just soaking it all in. Shane was in his absolute element! At last, he knew he’d nailed a proper close-up shot — and the grin on his face said it all.

Across the way in the tall trees, there was more activity — and before we knew it, more came over the wall and into the garden, also heading for the fruit trees. Then the whole family followed — we couldn’t believe our eyes! We’d waited so long for this. I couldn’t even tell you how many photos we took — click, click, click! It was one of those moments.

Then I spotted an Oriental pied hornbill flying into one of the trees, and I had to drag Shane away from the monkeys to try and capture the bird. What a wildlife moment we were having — we were absolutely loving it!

We reluctantly had to leave to catch the boat back, but we couldn’t complain — what an amazing day. We both agreed it was up there as one of our best days so far, and there have been quite a few!

Nothing was going to dampen our spirits — though the boat ride back nearly dampened our clothes, as the sea had become really choppy and things got a bit hair-raising. Because of the high waves, the boat couldn’t drop us at the bottom of Ao Nang Beach where we’d boarded; instead, it had to go farther around to the next bay, where there was a small marina that made it easier to get off. We didn’t care if it meant a bit more of a walk — we were buzzing from our amazing day. In fact, the spot where the boat dropped us was right near the Irish bar, so we popped in to celebrate over a few beers — ha! What a day!

We only had a couple more days left, so the following day we treated ourselves to a well-deserved pool day and just relaxed — perfect!

Krabi is great for island hopping, with longtail boats heading out to all the surrounding islands — Phi Phi, Hong Island, to name a few. We haven’t done Phi Phi yet, but we want to save it for when we return to Thailand, as there’s still so much left for us to explore. We also didn’t want a full-on day, so we decided to take the boat over to Railay Beach and enjoy a few hours there. We visited last time we were here, but it’s pretty amazing, so we were more than happy to revisit.

Thankfully, the sea was calm, and it only took around 20 minutes to get there. Railay Beach is a slice of tropical paradise, tucked between dramatic limestone cliffs. Though it’s part of the mainland, it feels like an island because it’s only accessible by boat, giving it a secluded, laid-back vibe.

The beach where you get off the boat — West Railay Beach — is pretty amazing, with soft, powdery white sand. But there’s more to Railay than just this beach. There’s a street leading off the beach — well, they aren’t really streets in the usual sense; they’re more like sandy pathways and narrow walking lanes winding through a laid-back beach village. There are small shops selling beachwear, handmade jewellery, chilled-out cafés, reggae bars, and simple guesthouses tucked among the palm trees.

If you continue past all the shops and restaurants, it leads you over to East Railay Bay Beach, which is quite different from the postcard-perfect West Railay Beach. It’s a long, narrow stretch lined with mangroves instead of soft sand, so it’s not really a swimming beach — but it has its own charm. Along the edge, you’ll find a lively walking path with budget guesthouses, reggae bars, little restaurants, and shops, giving it a laid-back, backpacker vibe. From here, you can reach some beautiful viewpoints and cut through to the famous Phra Nang Cave Beach, which in our opinion is the best beach.

Railay is famous not only for its beaches but also for its fascinating caves tucked into the towering limestone cliffs. One of the most famous is Phra Nang Cave (also called Princess Cave), located at the end of Phra Nang Beach. It’s known for its shrine filled with offerings, including dozens of wooden carvings shaped like fertility symbols, left by local fishermen and visitors seeking good fortune. The cave itself opens dramatically onto the beach, with impressive rock formations inside.

Another popular spot is the Railay Viewpoint and Lagoon. You’ll see people scrambling up a steep, rocky path with just a rope anchored in the rocks to reach the hidden lagoon and panoramic lookout. There was no way we were ever going to attempt that — it looked incredibly treacherous! We will happily left that to the brave.

For rock climbers, there are also smaller caves and overhangs scattered along the cliffs on both Railay East and West, making it a real playground for adventure lovers.

We had our wildlife fix and saw lots of macaque monkeys and even spotted two Oriental pied hornbills. They were really high up in the trees, so we couldn’t quite get the best photo, but it was still an amazing sight.

We made our way through the caves to Phra Nang Beach to spend some time relaxing, swimming, and simply enjoying our last day before catching the boat back.

It was the perfect place to end our time in Krabi. We’ve really enjoyed our return visit here — even more than the first. We’ve come to realise just how much this place has to offer; it’s got everything, really: beautiful beaches, a dramatic coastline, nearby islands, and most of all, wildlife. We’ve absolutely loved it and hope to return — maybe next time staying on Tonsai and Railay.

We’ll be sad to leave, as tomorrow we fly back to Bangkok for one night — (there it is again, does a song spring to mind? Ha!) — before making our way back toward home. We’re not quite done yet, though; our next stop is much closer to home. In fact, it’s under five hours away, as our final destination is Turkey. Since Turkey is still mostly in Asia — 97% to be exact — we thought it would be a fitting end to our Asian adventure. We’ll fly to Istanbul first, where east meets west — a place we’ve always wanted to visit — and we’re looking forward to seeing what it has to offer.

Midlifers Go East