Midlifers Go East
Chiang Rai.
The journey from Coron to Thailand began with a smaller propeller-driven aircraft to the island of Cebu. Unfortunately, there were no direct flights available, but I enjoy flying, so I was more than happy to spend the day in several airports. From Cebu, we took a flight to Bangkok, where we spent the night in an airport hotel before catching our third flight the following morning to Chiang Rai, which is located in the far north of Thailand, near the borders of Laos and Myanmar.
All the flights were great—smooth and on time—so I quite enjoyed our journey.
We were happy to be back in Thailand for several reasons. First, the food, of course—I’m obsessed! And in the north, there will be so much to see, allowing us to pack our days delving into the rich history and magnificent temples. Another great thing about being back in Thailand is having access to ‘Grab,’ the taxi app. It’s just so convenient and saves a lot of hassle.
When we landed in Chiang Rai, I booked a taxi within minutes to pick us up directly outside the arrivals hall, and soon after, we were on our way to the hotel, which, fortunately, was only a 15-minute ride away.
The small hotel we’d chosen was lovely—tucked away on a quiet street but just a short stroll from town and all the sights. It was a colourful place, filled with lots of quirky ornaments. A bonus was the communal kitchen, which we could use in the morning. They supplied bread, eggs, tea, and coffee, leaving it up to guests to whip up their own breakfast. Well, if you know me, you’ll know I was in my element—more than happy to cook for us. Shane, how do you like your eggs in the morning?
We chose to start in Chiang Rai because it’s so far north and also for its temples—one of which is the White Temple. I’d seen many pictures of this magnificent temple over the years, so I was looking forward to seeing it in person. But before that, we had a town to explore.
I was feeling the place straight away—there was so much familiarity from our first visit to Thailand. 7-Eleven convenience stores stood on nearly every corner (though they’re all over Asia), and it was nice to see Boots the chemist, offering a little reminder of home.
Fruit was plentiful and cheap—a small thing, perhaps, but in some places, it has been ridiculously expensive. More importantly for me, there were hundreds of restaurants and street food stalls. I literally cannot wait to try lots of different Thai dishes, especially here in the north, where there are several regional specialties. I love chili, so that won’t be a problem here.
So yes, we were off to a good start.
Whilst exploring the town we decided to walk over to the clock tower which is one of the city’s landmarks, designed by Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, who also designed the White Temple. This striking structure features intricate golden and blue details, making it a visually impressive piece of art.
The town was a lively place—lots of bars, a street bazaar, and places advertising live music. There was definitely enough here to keep us entertained after a day of visiting the temples.
As well as the famous temples in the area, the town itself has more than its fair share of temples. Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha) is one of the most historically significant temples in Chiang Rai. It originally housed the famous Emerald Buddha (now in Bangkok). They are all equally beautiful with such intricate designs.
Our first evening didn’t disappoint. We had a few drinks, and I was able to get a cider, which I always enjoy. I think it must have been a year since I’d last had one, so it was very much welcomed. For dinner, we got to try the northern specialty ‘Khao Soi,’ a rich coconut curry noodle broth garnished with crispy fried noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, and lime. We also tried the flavourful northern Thai sausage, laden with spices and lemongrass. Both were utterly delicious—I’ve arrived in food heaven!
The next morning, we were off to visit the White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), which is situated about a 25-minute drive outside of town. To add to the adventure, we decided to take the local bus. The bus terminal was only a five-minute walk from our hotel. When we arrived at the station, I asked at the information desk where to go, and the lady advised that the bus was parked at number 8. There were already a few people on board, so we hopped on. It was good to see a few fellow travellers, who I assumed were also heading to the temple. We just managed to get seats on the back row, alongside a local man and a mountain of parcels. That’s one of the reasons we like taking local transport—there’s always something amusing to see. The side back door was also tied open, so we’d have a nice breeze during the journey—and we weren’t wrong! As we approached the intersection near the temple, a young guy who’d also taken our 50p fare told us this was our stop and pointed across the road in the direction we needed to go. It was actually quite obvious, as you could see the temple immediately.
As we walked the short distance to the temple, nothing quite prepared us for its magnificence. It’s not an ancient temple; it was only built in 1997. The White Temple is one of Thailand’s most stunning and unique temples. Designed by artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, it’s a contemporary take on traditional Buddhist temples, blending religious symbolism with surreal and modern artistic elements.
It literally takes your breath away with its striking white exterior, and the embedded mirrors make it shimmer in the sunlight—you definitely need your sunglasses!
You cross the ‘Bridge of Rebirth’ leading into the temple that represents the journey from worldly temptations to enlightenment, with outstretched hands symbolizing human suffering.
Unlike traditional temple art, the murals inside feature unexpected elements like superheroes, movie characters, and global events, symbolising modern struggles. Unfortunately, you aren’t allowed to take photos inside.
It’s a fascinating place, and it doesn’t stop with the temple. The grounds are an extension of its surreal and symbolic artistry, blending traditional Thai temple elements with imaginative sculptures and structures—even the odd severed head dangling from the trees—scary!
Also within the grounds, there’s a striking golden building known as the Golden Ganesha Temple, surrounded by water teeming with colourful fish. This temple showcases intricate golden designs, creating a vivid contrast to the predominantly white structures of Wat Rong Khun.
In fact, there are a couple of golden buildings within the temple complex, one of which is actually the restroom. Despite being just a restroom, the structure is incredibly ornate, featuring intricate gold carvings and elaborate decorations—easily one of the most beautiful restrooms I’ve ever seen.
We explored for hours and took far too many pictures—it was one of those places. When we felt like we’d truly exhausted it, we headed back to the intersection to wait for the bus. After 10 minutes with no sign of it, we took the easy option and ordered a taxi, which arrived in a matter of minutes—see, that’s why we love the Grab app so much!
That evening, we ended up at the Irish bar—yes, every town has one. There was live music, cider (of course), and we got chatting to a lovely young couple who were well-travelled, full of fun, and had lots of interesting stories. It was hard to drag ourselves away, but we were starving, and it was getting late. Luckily, a few places were still serving food, and it ended up being, once again, an amazing supper!
The following day we decided to visit the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) which is another relatively recent addition completed in 2016. The temple is famous for its striking blue exterior, which features intricate designs and vibrant murals depicting Buddhist themes, as well as other cultural symbols. The vivid blue color, combined with golden accents, creates a stunning visual contrast that makes the temple stand out.
We decided to walk to get some steps in, as it was about an hour’s walk. About 20 minutes into the walk, Shane realised his camera was almost flat, so we did an about-turn, had to charge it for a while, and started all over again—so we were definitely getting our steps in—ha!
When we finally arrived at the temple we were equally as impressed as with the white temple. The detail in these structures is truly amazing.
The interior of the Blue Temple is equally impressive, with a large white Buddha statue at the center, surrounded by blue and gold decorations.
Again, we took far too many photos—it was hard not to. But it’s what we love doing, and with subjects as impressive as this, it’s hard to drag your eye away from the lens.
another good day was had and with all the steps walking back we had most certainly earned supper.
We decided to revisit the Clock Tower later that evening, as in the evening, the Clock Tower comes alive with a vibrant light show that occurs every hour. The tower is illuminated with changing colours and lighting effects.
We weren’t expecting anything mind-blowing—and it wasn’t! But it was nice, and hey, at least we saw it!
Over another amazing supper, we were told that we should visit the Black House (Baan Dam). It sounded like a place we’d be interested in visiting. It was about a 25-minute ride out of town, so the following day, we decided to go.
The Black House is a fascinating and unique art museum created by Thai artist Thawan Duchanee. It is not a traditional temple or house, but rather a collection of over 40 black wooden buildings scattered across a large property. The buildings are designed in a traditional Thai style but are painted in dark, almost black hues, giving them an eerie yet captivating atmosphere.
Inside the Black House, you’ll find a wide array of sculptures, artwork, and artifacts that reflect the artist’s personal vision and creativity. The collection includes animal skins, bones, and other raw materials, which might give the place a slightly macabre vibe. These elements are meant to explore the relationship between life, death, and nature, and the concept of mortality in Thai culture.
It was different, I’ll give it that. We liked the architecture—a stark contrast to the serene atmosphere at the White Temple—but interesting all the same. The artist dedicated 50 years of his life to creating the Black House.
We’d only spent the morning at the Black House, so to make the most of our day, we took a taxi to the Big Buddha Temple (Wat Huay Pla Kang), famous for its massive 25-meter-tall white statue of the Goddess of Mercy, Guanyin. This towering statue, located on top of a hill, offers spectacular views of the surrounding countryside.
As well as the Big Buddha, one of the highlights is the temple’s seven-tiered pagoda, which is beautifully adorned with intricate details. There is a lift to take you to the top of the Big Buddha, but we didn’t use it. Instead, we chose to climb the stairs to the top of the pagoda, where we were still able to enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding area especially as it overlooked the Buddha.
It was our last evening in Chiang Rai, and we were lucky that it was Saturday, so we were able to visit the night market. This lively, colourful street market takes place every Saturday evening in the center of Chiang Rai. Located near Sang Khom Market on Phahonyothin Road, it’s one of the best places to immerse yourself in the local culture, try delicious street food, shop for handmade crafts, and experience the vibrant atmosphere of the city.
The food section is particularly popular, offering an array of Thai snacks, grilled meats, fresh fruits, and traditional dishes like khao soi (curry noodles) and som tam (papaya salad). We shared a sweet potato snack, but we didn’t want to ruin our appetite, as for our last evening, we wanted to sit down and enjoy a proper meal—like every night, ha!
So that brought our short time in Chiang Rai to an end. We’re happy that we got to see a variety of attractions best suited to us. Tomorrow, we are heading to Chiang Mai, which is one of Thailand’s most popular destinations in the north. Filled with history, culture, nature, and food, I already know we will love it!
Chiang Mai.
Getting to Chiang Mai from Chiang Rai was easy and affordable. We took the Green Bus from Terminal 1 Bus Station, which was just a short walk from our hotel. The journey, on a comfortable, air-conditioned coach, took just under four hours.
We were staying in Chiang Mai’s Old City, so we took a short taxi ride from the bus terminal,as it was a bit too far to walk.
Chiang Mai’s Old City is the historic heart of the city, surrounded by ancient walls and a moat. Within its square-shaped layout, you’ll find a mix of centuries-old temples, bustling markets, charming cafés, and quiet backstreets lined with traditional teak houses.
We couldn’t wait to drop our bags and start exploring this vibrant city. Right across the street from our hotel stood one of Chiang Mai’s many incredible temples, just waiting to be discovered—perhaps not today, as it was already getting late, but definitely during our stay.
Since we had arrived on a Sunday, the first thing we noticed when stepping outside was that the streets near our hotel had been transformed into a bustling pedestrian-only zone for the Sunday Night Market. We soon learned that this weekly event is one of Chiang Mai’s most famous and vibrant markets, stretching along Ratchadamnoen Road from Tha Phae Gate deep into the heart of the Old City.
This market is a paradise for shoppers, food lovers, and culture enthusiasts. You’ll find a vast array of handmade crafts, intricate jewellery, traditional Thai clothing, unique souvenirs, and stunning artwork, much of it made by local artisans. Unlike some tourist markets, the Sunday Market is known for its authentic, high-quality goods at reasonable prices.
Street food is a major highlight, with vendors serving up everything from crispy spring rolls and mango sticky rice to freshly grilled meats and Thai iced tea. There are also plenty of spots to sit down and enjoy a foot massage after strolling through the bustling streets—if that’s your thing. Unfortunately, no one is touching my feet—far too ticklish!
I was immediately loving the feel of the place and could have browsed the stalls for hours. However, the crowded, slow-moving streets were starting to get on Shane’s nerves, so we made a detour away from the market, heading deeper into the Old City to escape the crowds.
I loved all the little alleyways tucked away from the main streets, where hidden restaurants, charming shops, and small accommodations with beautiful gardens could be found.
Even though Chiang Mai is a big city, some areas had a laid-back, village-like charm.
After exploring the town a bit more, we settled into one of the many restaurants. We’re still loving Thai food, so local cuisine was an easy choice. But with so many restaurants offering both Thai and international dishes, you’re truly spoiled for choice here.
After a great first impression, we were happy to retire for the evening and were very much looking forward to diving into the Old City the following day.
Up bright and breezy, we couldn’t wait to get lost in the streets and alleyways. Today was all about exploring the many temples. We may have visited lots of temples recently, but it’s what makes this area of Thailand so enchanting, and we’re still always blown away by the detail and beauty of their architecture. Many of these temples reflect the city’s rich Lanna heritage, with intricate designs and serene atmospheres that transport you back in time.
The first temple we came across was ‘Wat Phra Singh’ which is one of Chiang Mai’s most iconic and revered temples. It is a beautiful example of Lanna-style architecture and one of the city’s most important cultural and spiritual sites.
The temple’s peaceful grounds include lush garden with golden chedis, and shaded areas where you can relax and take in the serene atmosphere.
Wat Phra Singh is not only a major tourist attraction but also an active place of worship. It plays a key role in the city’s Buddhist traditions and festivals, particularly during the Songkran festival, when it is the centre of water-throwing celebrations.
Chiang Mai is also home to literally hundreds of coffee shops, so it wasn’t long before we stumbled across one that invited us to take a short break and watch the world go by for a moment.
Refreshed and moving on the next temple we came across ‘Wat Chedi Luang’ famous for its massive, partially restored chedi (stupa), which was originally constructed in the 14th century during the reign of King Saen Muang Ma, the chedi was intended to house the ashes of the king. It was once fully covered in gold and richly decorated but was damaged by an earthquake in 1545, leaving the chedi partially in ruins. Despite this, it remains an impressive and majestic sight, with intricately carved stone elephants guarding its base.
I loved this temple and think it’s going to be pretty hard to beat, but we pressed on, coming across hidden, lesser-known temples throughout the city, each offering its own unique charm and serenity. From the grand chedis to the intricate woodwork, every temple had something special to admire. However, rather than bore you with the details of each one, let’s just say that the sheer beauty, peaceful atmosphere, and rich history of these temples made for a truly memorable experience.
Exploring these temples worked up quite an appetite, so we were eager to pause for lunch—of course, it had to be Thai; I’m completely hooked on the food here. We found the perfect spot, a cozy little place with a view of the city’s ancient walls. I’m still amazed at how affordable the food is—once again, we enjoyed a delicious meal for just a few pounds. I truly hope I don’t tire of this incredible cuisine anytime soon!
After pounding the streets all day on a temple mission, it was time to head back to the hotel and freshen up before heading out again to sample the nightlife.
When it comes to nightlife, Chiang Mai offers a blend of relaxed bars, vibrant night markets, live music venues, and lively clubs, making it a great place to unwind after a day of exploration. While it may not have the high-energy party scene of cities like Bangkok, Chiang Mai’s nightlife is characterised by its laid-back, friendly atmosphere.
Now, we weren’t looking to hit the club scene—that’s way past our bedtime these days—but we do enjoy a bar where we can people-watch and listen to some good music.
Sure enough, we found the perfect spot to watch the world go by and enjoy a couple of drinks after our full day of sightseeing.
As we headed back toward the hotel to call it a night. Just a few hundred yards from where we’d had a drink, we stumbled upon an area filled with quirky bars—some even had old bullet camper vans converted into lively drinking spots. We took a quick walk through, and the place was buzzing with energy, full of young people enjoying the vibrant atmosphere. It was clearly their scene, so we decided to leave them to it and head back for a more peaceful evening!
The Old City of Chiang Mai is quite large, so the following day, we spent the morning exploring some more. We came across Buak Hard Park in the south-western corner, filled with lush greenery, tranquil walking paths, and a lovely pond. The park was full of people walking dogs, resting on blankets on the grass, or sitting on the many benches. It must have recently been the Chiang Mai Flower Festival, as many colourful displays were still in bloom throughout the park. It was a charming and quiet place that offered a nice contrast to the busy streets.
After the park, we strolled across to the opposite side of the Old City, exploring more of the side streets. Once again, it wasn’t long before we came across more temples—which isn’t surprising given that the Old City is home to over 30 temples, and Chiang Mai itself has over 300. I’m not sure we’ll find them all—Ha!
Taking a break from the temples, another place I had read about was the Mae Kha Canal, which wasn’t too far to walk. The canal has been significantly improved in recent years, with cleaner water, better drainage systems, and landscaped paths that are now enjoyed by both locals and tourists. The canal has become a pleasant area for walking, jogging, and cycling, with green spaces and public seating along its banks.
When we arrived, we got talking to a guy who mentioned that the canal is better in the evening when the temperature is lower. They light up the pathway with LED lights, and little stalls line the path selling food and drinks. Since we’d made the trip, we still had a short walk along the canal. We will definitely come back one evening, as it will be interesting to see it lit at night.
It was another great day of exploring. We enjoy busy days in cities, but sometimes it’s nice and necessary to relax on a beach or by a pool. While there was no beach this far north, what we did have was a lovely hotel with a room that led directly to the poolside—perfect for mixing things up and getting some much-needed downtime. Any spare time to catch up on some reading and enjoy the sunshine was absolutely perfect!
After a couple of chill out days we were back on Temple hopping. One we wanted to visit was ‘Wat Phra That Doi Suthep’ which is one of Chiang Mai’s most iconic temples, perched on Doi Suthep mountain just outside the city. It is not only a spiritual center but also a popular tourist destination, offering stunning views over Chiang Mai and its surrounding areas.
The best and cheapest way to reach the temple was by taking one of the Red Songthaews—shared taxis—from near the Chang Phueak Gate. So, the following day, we headed over to the gate in search of the taxis. There they were, all lined up across from the gate. As we approached, the driver asked if we were heading to the temple, to which we confirmed we were. They wait until the vehicle is full before leaving. We were lucky and timed it well, as we helped fill the numbers, and were soon on our way up the hillside to the temple. The driver also mentioned that we could visit another temple nearby. The fare was 80 baht each way, which is only a couple of pounds, so it was extremely good value.
The temple, which dates back to 1383, is considered a sacred site in Thai Buddhism. Its golden stupa, which houses a relic of the Buddha, is a major draw for both pilgrims and visitors. To reach the temple, you have to climb the 306 steps, lined with intricate Naga (serpent) sculptures, or take the cable car if you’re not feeling energetic.
Once at the top you are treated to beautiful panoramic views of the city below and the surrounding hills The temple complex itself is serene, with richly decorated buildings, murals, and statues that reflect the temple’s spiritual significance and Lanna architectural style.
After exploring the temple we headed back down the hillside towards the next temple which wasn’t too far away. The drive itself was good with lots of twists and turns and glimpses of the city below.
The 2nd temple was called ‘Wat Pha Lat’, often known as the “Hidden Temple” nestled in the forested foothills. While all temples in Chiang Mai are beautiful, this one exceeded our expectations—it truly was a hidden gem. Its jungle-like location and natural surroundings added to the charm. With intricately carved wooden doors, Buddha images, quiet courtyards, and lush gardens, it felt like a serene retreat that offered a more authentic Buddhist experience away from the crowds. There were also viewpoints with stunning vistas of the city and the surrounding mountains.
This temple quickly became our firm favourite in Chiang Mai. What a brilliant day it was! It felt like a mini tour in the taxi, with our driver waiting for us at each temple. Fantastic value—we would highly recommend it; in fact, we already have.
There is so much to see and do in Chiang Mai. If you want to venture a little further out in the region you can visit the ‘Doi Inthanon National Park’ which is home to the country’s highest peak, Doi Inthanon, which stands at 2,565 meters. The park is filled with lush rainforests and pine forests, making it a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and bird watchers. Highlights of the park include the Twin Royal Pagodas built to honor King Rama IX and Queen Sirikit, many waterfalls, nature trails and ethnic villages.
Chiang Mai is also home to several ethical elephant sanctuaries that focus on conservation, rescue, and responsible tourism. We definitely wanted to visit one while we were here.
After some research, we chose to visit Into the Wild Elephant Camp, a small, family-run sanctuary located an hour and a half south of the city center. The camp provides a safe and sustainable environment for its five retired and rescued elephants, allowing them to roam freely in their natural habitat.
In a small group of just eight, we first learned about the history, behaviour, and conservation of elephants, giving us a deeper understanding and appreciation of these majestic creatures.
We then had the opportunity to feed them some snacks before trekking into the jungle, where we could observe them as they foraged.
We then made our way back to the camp with the elephants, and this is when the real fun began. Before giving them a mud bath, we had to cover ourselves in mud first—masking our human scent so we could get closer to bathe them. It was an unforgettable experience, scooping up handfuls of thick mud and giving them a proper scrub in the small mud pond. Laughter and splashes filled the air as the elephants reveled in the treatment.
After the mud bath, we moved to the larger pond for the final rinse, watching as they playfully submerged themselves in the cool water. They seemed to love every moment of it—and honestly, who wouldn’t enjoy a daily spa treatment like this?
It was an amazing experience—after all, it’s not every day you get to feed and bathe elephants. We felt privileged to be part of it. It was definitely one to tick off the bucket list!
This almost brought our time in Chiang Mai to an end. On our last evening, we decided to revisit the canal and nearby was the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, so we took the opportunity to visit that as well.
During our travels, we’ve been to our fair share of night markets, and this one was definitely worth a visit. It offered a vibrant mix of shopping, street food, and entertainment, along with a couple of outdoor food courts featuring live music.
We didn’t stay too long, just a short stop before heading to the canal which was lit up just as the guy had said, but unfortunately, it still wasn’t very busy. A couple of guys were singing and playing guitar, which was nice, but we didn’t feel the need to stay. At least we had seen it.
We’d come to favour a couple of spots in the Old City so we decided to head back there.
After spending the past week exploring, we’ve gotten to know Chiang Mai quite well and discovered that its nightlife is spread across different pockets of the city. Each area offers a distinct vibe, making it easy to experience something new every night. But for us, the charm of the Old City won out—it was definitely where we felt most at home and a great way to spend our final evening!
We’ve really enjoyed our time here in Chiang Mai, finding a great balance between exploration and relaxation. But now, it’s time to move on.
Next, we’re heading further into the mountains to Pai, a laid-back town known for its bohemian atmosphere, lush landscapes, and relaxed vibe.
Pai.
Our next stop on the northern adventure was the town of Pai, located about 130 km northwest of Chiang Mai. Nestled in a scenic valley, we’d heard mixed reviews about Pai, with some saying the town had been ruined in recent years due to over-tourism. However, we’d also read about the beauty of the surrounding countryside, so we decided to see for ourselves.
The journey from Chiang Mai to Pai is famously winding, with 762 curves, but the scenery along the way is said to be breathtaking. We were advised to take a motion sickness pill just to be safe, which was easy to pick up at one of the many pharmacies.
Luckily, we managed to avoid getting sick, but we also somehow missed all the breathtaking scenery along the way. Both of us dozed off so we joked we must have been secretly given sleeping tablets—though, in reality, we hadn’t. We must’ve just been really tired. Not that we were complaining—we got there in no time!
We booked an amazing hotel in Pai—let’s call it our belated anniversary present. It was set in lush countryside with a view over the mountains, where we could watch the sunrise. We even had the luxury of a terrace with loungers overlooking the garden. It was absolutely amazing! At that point, the town could’ve been terrible for all we cared—we could’ve just stayed here! Ha!
We were only a short walk from the town centre, but the hotel provided a shuttle, which could come in handy. For now, we were happy to walk—though that was only if we could prize ourselves away from the beautiful setting!
We headed down to ‘walking street’ first which is the Main Street stretching through the heart of the town. This street comes alive at night filled with Bars, restaurants cozy cafes and boutiques. It’s was early evening so many stalls were also setting up for the nightly market which lines the street where they sell a mix of local food, handmade crafts, clothing, and artwork.
First impressions: we definitely like the look of this town, and I’m so glad we weren’t put off by some of the reviews. It’s known as a hippy town, and it definitely has a bit of a psychedelic vibe, but it’s also very much on the tourist trail, so it has its fair share of backpackers. However, it’s not all youngsters—there seemed to be a nice mix of people of all ages.
There were also some very inviting restaurants and trendy bistros offering a mix of local and Western food. I already knew we were going to like it here—it had a nice, chilled vibe as well.
We didn’t have a late night. After a nice meal and a few drinks, we were happy to head back to the hotel. As luck would have it, the shuttle bus was just around the corner from Walking Street. As you probably know, we don’t mind walking, but on the odd occasion, it’s nice to get a lift. Perfect timing!
Bright and breezy, we woke up the next morning to the sun just rising over the mountains and the sound of the birds’ chorus. We were able to enjoy a delicious breakfast served in the beautiful restaurant—it was the perfect way to start the day. Could definitely get used to this!
Today, we were planning to explore some of the surrounding area on foot. Most people would hire a scooter to get around, but it’s not something we want to do anymore—probably an age thing! We’ve seen too much evidence of accidents, which puts us off. Thankfully, we like to walk, so it’s no big deal.
We first headed in the direction of the Big Buddha, which can be seen up on the hillside just outside the town. The walk wasn’t too bad, as the roads here aren’t very busy, and the surrounding countryside is nice and rural.
We crossed a bridge over the river where we the starting point for the ‘tipsy tubing’ which is a popular attraction amongst the young backpackers. The experience typically involves tubing down a scenic stretch of the river, with stops at bars or local spots offering drinks, music, and a chill atmosphere. If there was a few more our age I’d do it but we would look like mum and dad tagged along-ha!
So, we carried on, being more sensible (and probably more boring) toward the Buddha! We had to climb two sets of steps: the first to the entrance, and then, once at the site, more steps leading right up to the Big Buddha itself—OMG, we always seem to be climbing steps!
The view was worth it, though. Although a little hazy, you could see for miles across the valley and town, all surrounded by mountains.
Next stop we wanted to visit the long neck village which was around a half hour walk from the Big Buddha. We enjoyed the walk along small, rural roads surrounded by lush greenery and the occasional farm. The path was fairly quiet, with only a few local vehicles passing by.
As you approach the Long Neck Village, the scenery shifts slightly, and you’ll see more local homes along the way. The village itself is nestled in a picturesque location, and as you get closer, the traditional thatched-roof huts and the unique atmosphere of the village come into view.
The Long Neck Village is a cultural attraction where you can learn about the traditions and lifestyle of the Kayan people, a subgroup of the Karen ethnic group, who are known for their distinctive tradition of wearing brass neck coils. These coils are worn by women from an early age and gradually added to over time, elongating the neck.
It’s a small village, but a fascinating cultural experience. Set in a picturesque area, there’s a small fee to enter. Once inside, you can walk through and interact with the community, learning about their way of life, crafts, and customs. You can also purchase handmade souvenirs, often crafted by the women themselves.
I even got to try on a smaller version of the traditional necklace—it was only a fraction of the weight the women wear, and I have no idea how they manage it! I also treated myself to a bracelet, helping to support this small community.
We made our way back to the hotel after that. It was starting to get extremely hot under the afternoon sun, and it would be a shame not to take advantage of the lovely pool and tranquil surroundings before heading out for dinner.
To fully explore what Pai has to offer, you either need a scooter or should book one of the many tours available. Throughout the town, there are numerous tourist offices selling a variety of local trips, all reasonably priced.
We decided to book an afternoon tour that would visit several different attractions in the area. Its first stop was back at the Buddha, but since this was the only place we would be duplicating, it didn’t put us off booking.
There were only five of us on the tour, as we were joined by three lovely Dutch ladies. After a quick visit to the Buddha, we headed over to one of the many waterfalls in the area. It wasn’t the best waterfall we’ve ever seen, but it was busy with youngsters climbing the rocks and sliding into the lower pools. We didn’t fancy getting wet for the duration of the tour, so we happily watched them having fun before moving on to our next stop—the viewpoint, which offered stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and lush valley. Again, it was a little hazy, but still beautiful.
Just a short drive down from the viewpoint was the Chinese Village, which would be our next stop. Also known as Santichon Village, it showcases the lifestyle of the Yunnanese Chinese people who migrated to Thailand from southern China decades ago. The village features Chinese-style homes and temples, along with shops selling Chinese souvenirs and snacks.
It was then time for some refreshments so next we visited a place called ‘Coffee in love’ which was a quirky little cafe. If you didn’t know better you’d think you were in the English Lake District with its western style house and mountainous landscape. The café has become somewhat of a must-visit destination, not only for its coffee but also for its Instagram-worthy views. It has a charming, cozy vibe with plenty of outdoor seating, making it an ideal place to relax, sip on a coffee, and take in the natural beauty of Pai.
Refreshed after a delicious iced coffee we headed to the Bamboo bridge which is a unique and scenic walking bridge made entirely of bamboo. It spans over the rice fields and was originally built by locals as a way to access the fields during harvest season, but it has since become a popular tourist attraction.
The bridge is sturdy despite being made of bamboo and stretches quite a distance, as it also connects to nearby villages. Along the way, you may come across locals working in the fields or riding bikes along the path. The bridge also leads up to a beautiful temple, but unfortunately, we didn’t have time to explore as we had to get to our last stop of the day which would be to Pai canyon in time for the sunset.
Pai Canyon is one of Pai’s most popular natural attractions, known for its stunning landscapes and unique geological formations. The canyon features narrow ridges and deep ravines, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, valleys, and forests.
Visitors can hike along the narrow paths, but there was no way we were going to attempt that! Sheer drops on either side with not a single railing in sight—it’s really quite dangerous. We were happy to sit back and wait for the sun to set from a safe distance, but we couldn’t help but cringe at some of the people walking out on the ledges. What some people will do for a photo!
We got to enjoy the amazing sunset before heading back into town.
It was a brilliant afternoon trip, and we really got to see a lot of what Pai has to offer. The scenery as we drove was pretty spectacular.
We were only staying in Pai for a short while, we had one more day so decided we would use it to relax at our beautiful hotel with its lovely amenities-be rude not too!
On our last evening, we walked through town toward the river. There are a couple of restaurants on either side of the river, which can be crossed via a small bamboo bridge. It was a lovely place to relax and have a drink while the sun went down.
We really enjoyed our time in Pai. Don’t be put off by some of the negative things people say. We didn’t personally witness anyone stoned or out of it from the legal drugs on offer here—not saying it wasn’t happening, but it’s no different from the rest of Thailand, where cannabis is now legal and freely available. What we experienced was a laid-back, chilled town with amazing scenery.
But now it’s time to head back down that winding road to Chiang Mai for a pit stop before we embark on a long train journey to Bangkok.
The journey itself is one of the highlights of taking the train, as we’ve read it passes through picturesque landscapes—lush rice fields, mountain ranges, and charming villages—so we’re really looking forward to it.
Bangkok — Our Return.
We decided to take the train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok based on a recommendation. While many travellers opt for the sleeper train arriving the next morning, we heard a different suggestion in conversation a few months back. Someone mentioned that if you’re in no rush, the daytime train from Chiang Mai to the capital is a really enjoyable and scenic journey. That sounded perfect for us—we had time on our side and both enjoy train travel. Even though it was a long trip, taking around 10 hours, we saw it as a day trip in itself!
The only downside was that when I received the tickets, we hadn’t been seated together. It wasn’t the end of the world since we were sat quite close, but given the length of the journey, it would have been nicer to sit together.
At the train station, we stocked up on a few snacks to tide us over and were soon on our way. Shane had been assigned a window seat, but I was on the aisle next to a lady who closed the curtain as soon as we set off—so much for the scenic views!
It was a good job I’d downloaded a few novels as it looked like I’d be reading for the next few hours.
The train chugged slowly down a single track, and whenever Shane spotted breathtaking scenery, I’d head over to his side for a look—he even saw an elephant at one point! After a short while, the lady next to me realised she was blocking the view and kindly opened the curtain for the rest of the journey.
The time actually passed quickly, and it was a comfortable journey—I was glad we’d decided to take the train.
When we arrived at the station in Bangkok, we had to take a taxi to our hotel. Bangkok is a large city, so the ride took another 40 minutes, but we still managed to check in and make it in time for supper and a few G&Ts. Overall, it had been a great day!
Since we’ve been to Bangkok before, this would just be a pit stop. We wouldn’t be in a rush to see all the sights—this visit would be much more laid-back, but nonetheless, I’m sure just as enjoyable!
When we were here last year, we stayed in Chinatown, which was great. However, we discovered an area called Rambuttri and visited it a couple of times because we loved the vibe—vibrant yet with a village feel. You don’t feel like you’re in a big city here—no high-rises, and it’s close to the river and the Grand Palace. So this time, we chose to stay in Rambuttri, and it turned out to be a great decision.
The following day, we didn’t have a major plan in place. I suggested we walk down toward the river and visit one of the parks.
It was funny—when we set off, the tuk-tuk drivers were immediately on us, trying to sell trips to here, there, and everywhere. We politely refused, and one of them asked, “Where are you going?”
“To the park,” I replied.
He looked completely dumbfounded. “Why? There’s nothing to see at the park!”
I laughed and said, “We want to see lizards.”
He stared at me as if I’d lost my mind, but when we got to the park, we did see lizards—and I was ecstatic! We love spotting wildlife, so don’t diss the park, matey—ha!
We understand he’s so used to tourists wanting temples, markets, or sightseeing tours and that the idea of someone choosing a park just for wildlife seemed absurd to him.
After spending time in the park, we continued past the Grand Palace and made our way to the river. From the riverbank, we had a fantastic view of Wat Arun, one of Bangkok’s most iconic landmarks, famous for its towering central prang.
Since we had visited last year, we didn’t feel the need to go inside again, but it was still just as impressive from the riverside. As we wandered, we discovered a street that lined up perfectly with the temple, making it a great spot for photos. Unsurprisingly, plenty of Instagrammers had already found this spot.
We definitely planned to return at night, as we hadn’t photographed Wat Arun after dark on our last visit—I imagine it will look spectacular.
We didn’t really know where we were heading next—we just knew we needed a large iced drink, that was for sure. The city was heating up, living up to its reputation as a melting pot, especially at this time of year.
With ice-cold drinks in hand, we wandered aimlessly until we passed a man who asked, “Where are you going?”
“Just walking,” we replied.
“In this direction? There’s nothing down there to see,” he said.
It tickled me yet again how some people assume we’re only here for the tourist sights. In reality, just a few minutes down the road, we found ourselves in a labyrinth of alleyways filled with lanterns and local life—this was where there was everything. It reminded me why we love Bangkok so much. Had we taken the man’s advice, we might have missed it. He meant well, but not everyone is searching for the same thing.
We realised we were close to the canal lined with Indian restaurants—a great find from last year. With lunchtime approaching, there was no better place to stop for a bite to eat. We’re still loving Thai food, but we’ll never say no to an Indian!
By the time we got back to Rambuttri we’d had an amazing day and just in time to have a cool down in the rooftop pool before the sun went down.
The following day, we were in pretty much the same mindset—not really sure where to go. We decided to visit a temple just a short walk away, as I’d read it had a giant Buddha statue, and then we’d take it from there.
The statue and temple were impressive, and you could even climb the stairs inside the giant Buddha—which, of course, I did. Omg, why do I do this to myself? My legs were like jelly afterward—ha!
On our walk back, we were stopped once again by a tuk-tuk driver.
“Where are you going?” he asked.
“Just walking,” we replied.
He was selling a tour of some temples we hadn’t seen before, which actually caught our attention. After climbing all those stairs, I was more than happy to ride around the city in a tuk-tuk, so we agreed on a price and hopped in.
It was great whizzing through the streets with a refreshing breeze, and we got to visit the Golden Mount (Wat Saket), a striking hilltop temple. Sitting atop an artificial hill, it’s famous for its gleaming golden chedi, which can be seen from various parts of Bangkok. We’d spotted it in the distance from our hotel’s rooftop pool and had said we needed to visit—so this little trip ended up being perfect.
He also took us to the Marble Temple another beautiful spot we hadn’t heard of before.
All in all, we really enjoyed our afternoon!
Later, after giving our legs a bit of a rest, we decided to walk down to the riverside to catch the sunset and see Wat Arun lit up at night.
We followed the quickest walking route, and it was funny when it led us straight through a university campus—even through the student canteen of all places! I turned to Shane and said, “If we weren’t trying to catch the sunset, we could have joined the students for a subsidised dinner—pretended we were the oldest students in town—ha!”
When we reached the riverside, the sun was just setting. To get the best view, we would have needed to be on the other side of the river, but there wasn’t enough time for that now. Instead, we joined the crowd of people waiting for the sky to darken and for Wat Arun to light up beautifully.
As expected, the alleyway was busy with Instagrammers capturing that shot.
Happy with our photos, we headed back. Close to Rambuttri is Khaosan Road—only a few streets apart, yet worlds apart when it comes to chaos. We visited last year but decided to take one more look.
Khaosan Road is crazy—it’s the beating heart of Bangkok’s backpacker scene. A wild, neon-lit strip packed with bars, street food stalls, souvenir shops, and an endless stream of travellers looking for a good time. By day, it’s bustling but relatively tame, with vendors selling everything from elephant-print harem pants to fake IDs and questionable “authentic” souvenirs. By night, it transforms into a full-on party zone, where music from competing bars blares into the street, fire dancers perform, and touts try to lure you in with buckets of booze and promises of the “best night ever.”
We weren’t planning to stop—we just wanted to walk up and down the strip. I was relieved when we were done—get me back to Rambuttri now, ha! Yep, I won’t be in a rush to go back—seen it twice, and that’s enough!
Craziness aside, we really enjoyed our time back in Bangkok—even though we only explored a small area. If (or more likely when) we return, we can continue exploring different districts, just as we did this time—taking the rough guide off the beaten path, which always seems to suit us best.
Next, it’s time to head back to the beach—it’s been a while!
We’re off to Koh Samet, a lesser-known island to some but a popular weekend escape for many Bangkokians, as it’s the closest island to the city. Just a few hours’ drive and a short boat ride later, we’ll be there. We’re looking forward to seeing what this small island has to offer!
