Midlifers Go East
Istanbul.
The day before we were set to leave Thailand, news broke that Istanbul had experienced a powerful earthquake with a magnitude of 6.2. While there were no major structural collapses, at least 359 people were injured, mostly from falls or panic-induced accidents. Naturally, this unsettled us, especially as Istanbul was our next destination. The lack of warning or advice from the airline left us uncertain, but we decided to take it in stride. If there was any indication that visiting might not be safe, we could always adjust our plans and head elsewhere on short notice.
Putting all worries aside, I was really looking forward to the flight to Istanbul. First, we’d fly to Doha for a short layover, then continue on to Istanbul, with a total flying time of 11 hours.
The first flight was great; we were on the Dreamliner with a little more legroom, inflight entertainment, and food and drink. This might sound like the norm to some, but after months of flying around Asia on budget airlines, this felt like a luxury we hadn’t been accustomed to — so it was a nice treat.
The second flight wasn’t as spacious, but other than that, we still had entertainment and were well fed and watered, so we were more than happy.
Istanbul has two airports: Istanbul Airport on the European side, and Sabiha Gökçen Airport on the Asian side — which was the one we were flying into. Istanbul is an enormous city, so from the airport we still had about an hour’s drive to reach the district of Sultanahmet on the European side, where we were staying.
It was after 10 p.m. by the time we reached the hotel, and with our body clock still on Thai time, it was like the early hours of the morning — so it was straight to bed for a good night’s sleep, and we looked forward to exploring the following day.
Sultanahmet is considered the historic heart of Istanbul and one of its most iconic neighborhoods. It’s where you’ll find many of the city’s most famous landmarks, all packed into a walkable area — so it sounded like the perfect place for us to stay.
As with all cities , I had to research and make a list of places to see if we were going to make the most of our short time here. The main sights in Sultanahmet included Sultanahmet Square, Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, the Basilica Cistern, the Grand Bazaar, and the Spice Bazaar. With that list alone, we had a lot to see just in this district.
The weather had dipped in temperature from what we’d been used to, but our first morning was bright and sunny — perfect for sightseeing. Everyone seemed to be going about their day as normal after the earthquake, which eased any of our worries.
We were closest to the Grand Bazaar, so we decided to make that our first stop of the day. The square in front was coming to life as tourists and locals began their day. Small kiosks selling Turkish pastries and tea were bustling as people grabbed a quick bite to eat.
The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world. Dating back to the 15th century, it’s a sprawling labyrinth of over 4,000 shops spread across 60+ streets and alleys under a maze of vaulted ceilings. As you wander through, you’ll find a wide variety of goods: jewellery, intricately woven carpets, colourful ceramics, lanterns, leather goods, antiques, textiles, and spices.
Then bringing it into the modern world, there’s the ‘knock-offs’ — countless stalls and shops selling imitation handbags, wallets, belts, shoes, sunglasses, and clothing from luxury brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, Balenciaga, and more. Some copies are obvious and inexpensive; others are what locals call ‘first copies’ or ‘mirror copies,’ meaning they’re very high-quality replicas that can be hard to distinguish from the real thing.
You could have a field day if you wanted, but unfortunately we weren’t here to shop. We had little room in our bags, and honestly, we couldn’t be bothered to haggle. It’s expected, but it’s tiresome. Some people enjoy the fun of it, but we’d rather just have a set price than play the game.
So instead, we were here to get lost in the alleyways and simply enjoy seeing the way of life here.
As the morning progressed, it seemed like everyone was getting fed. Shop owners and locals gathered, making breakfast as much a social event as a meal. They sat on little stools, sharing delicious Turkish breakfasts of bread, cheese, olives, salads, and tea. Tea waiters walked through the crowded alleys in the bazaar, balancing trays of small tulip-shaped glasses filled with steaming tea.
The tea is a vital part of Turkish culture, and it’s customary for shopkeepers to offer it to customers, whether they are buying something or just browsing.
As we wandered through the maze of passageways, we loved coming across hidden courtyards offering a break from the chaos of the main bazaar. It’s hard to know what part of the bazaar you’re in, as it all looks identical, but that didn’t matter — we were here to get lost.
In one courtyard, we came across a small café. Breakfast was still in full swing, and seeing everyone eating made us hungry, so we took the weight off for a while and enjoyed a delicious sandwich, washed down with the local tea — perfect! It had been a while since we’d had crusty, fresh bread.
After only a few hours of exploring, three things were already standing out as the norm in Istanbul. The first was eating. Everyone seemed to be eating, whether through food delivery or dining out — both central aspects of life in Istanbul. Eating street food is a daily tradition for many locals.
The second thing we noticed was smoking. We could not believe how many people smoke here; it felt like going back 30 years ago in the UK. Smoking is still acceptable in many places, including inside cafés and restaurants.
Last, but my favorite, were the cats. Stray cats are an iconic part of Istanbul’s charm. They roam freely around the city and are an integral part of the atmosphere and culture.
While they are technically “strays,” many of the city’s residents take care of them. Locals often leave food and water out for the cats, and many businesses have designated spaces for them to rest, including cozy spots in cafés and shops. It’s not unusual to see a cat lounging peacefully in a café. Most of the stray cats in Istanbul are quite friendly and accustomed to humans. They’ll often approach you, looking for a pet or a scratch behind the ears.
There’s a cultural understanding in Istanbul that the stray cats belong to everyone. Many locals view them as part of the community. This is reflected in the way the cats are treated — they receive food, shelter, and even medical care from both residents and volunteers.
After spending the morning wandering around the bazaar, we made our way toward the iconic Blue Mosque. Everywhere you look in this area, you’ll see mosques — and not just any mosques, but grand, awe-inspiring ones. While I had heard of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, I quickly realised that equally magnificent mosques were scattered all around us. I was sure we’d explore them all over the next few days.
The Blue Mosque is directly across from Hagia Sophia, separated by a large open space known as Sultanahmet Square, where you can enjoy stunning views of both architectural wonders.
Built by Sultan Ahmed I between 1609 and 1616, the Blue Mosque was designed to rival the grandeur of the Hagia Sophia.
A blend of Ottoman and Byzantine architectural styles, the mosque features a large central dome surrounded by smaller domes and semi-domes, with six minarets that give it a unique and striking appearance.
As it was Friday, the Blue Mosque was closed for the Friday noon prayer until 2:30 PM. This didn’t matter to us, as we had plenty of time to visit inside another day. Today, we could photograph and admire it from the outside.
Sultanahmet Square itself is a beautiful and bustling area, offering a wonderful mix of history, culture, and local life. It has been the center of Istanbul since the Byzantine era and was once the site of the Hippodrome of Constantinople, a large arena where chariot races, public events, and gatherings took place during the Byzantine Empire.
After taking countless photographs, struggling to capture this vast masterpiece in its entirety—its sheer size and the trees blocking the full view made it a challenge—we finally made our way on the short walk to the Hagia Sophia.
Hagia Sophia is one of Istanbul’s most remarkable landmarks, a masterpiece of architecture with a history spanning over 1,500 years. Originally built as a Byzantine cathedral in 537 AD under Emperor Justinian I, it was the largest church in the world for nearly a thousand years and became a symbol of the Byzantine Empire.
When the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in 1453, the Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque by Sultan Mehmed II and Minarets were added.
We didn’t go inside but spent time exploring all around, marveling at its architectural beauty. In the square, food carts were grilling sweetcorn and roasting chestnuts, filling the air with delicious aromas.
From there, we made our way over to Topkapı Palace and its gardens — a sprawling complex built in the mid-15th century by Sultan Mehmed II, which served as the main residence of Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years.
The palace isn’t a single grand building, but rather a vast series of courtyards, pavilions, gardens spread across a hill overlooking the Bosphorus.
We had a good walk around and enjoyed the gardens, which were in full bloom with spring flowers. Many people were picnicking on the lawns, soaking up the sunshine.
We finished off the day with a walk down to the Bosphorus, the strait that separates Europe and Asia, winding its way through Istanbul and connecting the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara. From there, we followed the coastal pathway back toward our hotel. It had been a great first day, a few Efes on the way back— a perfect introduction to Istanbul.
The following day, we wanted to venture over to the part of Istanbul across the Galata Bridge, called Beyoğlu — it’s also on the European side of the city, just north of the Golden Horn.
The Golden Horn is a natural, sheltered inlet of the Bosphorus Strait that divides the European side of Istanbul into two parts. It’s one of the city’s most significant geographical features and historically served as a natural harbour, providing safe anchorage for ships.
We passed by the Grand Bazaar once more as we made our way down to the waterfront and bridge. There was so much to explore just walking this way. We were constantly side-tracked, which we didn’t mind. There’s was so much history all around us. As we neared the Galata Bridge, we came upon another impressive mosque, which we found out was the Yeni Camii (often referred to as the New Mosque). Despite its name, the Yeni Mosque is actually quite old — construction began in 1597 under Sultan Mehmed III and was completed in 1665, making it one of the last major mosques built during the Ottoman Empire.
The mosque has a striking and elegant design, with a large central dome, two minarets, and a series of smaller domes. It’s positioned on the Golden Horn, offering beautiful views of the water.
Right next to it was the Egyptian Bazaar (also known as the Spice Bazaar). It’s the second-largest covered bazaar in Istanbul after the Grand Bazaar and dates back to 1664 and was originally built as part of the New Mosque complex.
Inside was a sensory experience with the array of spices — saffron, paprika, sumac, cumin, dried mint, and countless others. Then there was all the sweet treats that the Turkish love so much. Turkish delight, dried fruits, nuts, and sweets like baklava and halva all displayed in large, beautiful piles.
They also had a large variety of herbal and fruit teas, and they were offering us all sorts to try — which we were happy to oblige. Pomegranate tea is one of the most popular, but then we also tried teas with whole nuts and dried fruits, all of which were amazing. It was like food and drink in one cup — and absolutely delicious.
Finally we made it to the bridge. The Galata bridge It’s more than just a crossing — it’s a lively slice of daily Istanbul life.
It has two levels:The upper level carries cars, trams, and pedestrians, offering fantastic views over the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and the old city skyline with the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapı Palace in the distance. The lower level is lined with restaurants and cafés where you can sit for a tea, coffee, or seafood meal right over the water.
One of the bridge’s most charming sights is the rows of local fishermen casting their lines from early morning until sunset, a long-standing tradition here.
Just Walking across the bridge gives you some of the best panoramic views of both the old and new parts of the city. You can look across to the Galata Tower on one side and the domes and minarets of Sultanahmet on the other.
After crossing the bridge, we headed toward the Galata Tower, which is set up on a hill. We weaved our way up the maze of narrow streets and steps to reach this famous landmark. The tower was originally built in 1348; back then, it was called the Tower of Christ and served as part of the city’s fortifications. Over the centuries, it has been used for many purposes — including as a fire watchtower, a prison, and even an observatory.
The Tower rises about 67 meters (220 feet) tall and offers 360-degree views over the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn, Sultanahmet, the Bosphorus Bridge, and all the way to the Asian side of Istanbul.
The streets around the tower were bustling, with lots of quirky shops and inviting café-bars that had lovely outdoor terraces. People were sipping coffee, and I noticed many were tucking into a particular slice of cake with chocolate sauce. It must be extremely popular, as almost every table had one. I found out it was San Sebastian cheesecake — a dessert that has become a big trend in Turkey over the past few years. Originally from Spain’s Basque region, San Sebastian cheesecake is known for its burnt, caramelized top and creamy, custard-like inside. It sounded delicious, and we could have easily had a slice, but we were saving ourselves for lunch.
We continued exploring the streets all around the tower, we really liked it around this district. It had a vibe and was quite arty.
We were starting to get hungry after seeing all those people eating cake earlier, so we were pleased when we came across a small shop making fresh pide, one of Turkey’s most beloved traditional dishes — often described as Turkish-style pizza. Pide is an oval-shaped, boat-like flatbread with slightly crispy edges and a soft center, typically topped with a variety of ingredients and baked in a stone or wood-fired oven. It’s the perfect Turkish street food, and we couldn’t wait to tuck in — it was delicious and piping hot.
After a short rest with our bellies full, we headed back down the hill and across toward the waterfront. This area was also fascinating, with ancient Turkish baths, the Nusretiye Mosque, and the Istanbul Modern, a museum of modern art. Along the waterfront is the Galataport Promenade, one of Istanbul’s newest and most stylish areas, offering views of the Bosphorus, the Asian side of the city, and the passing ferries, cruise ships, and fishing boats.
On the streets just behind the waterfront we stumbled upon a vibrant area filled with restaurants and bars and a street covered with colourful umbrellas, little tables and chairs spilled onto the streets it’s was very inviting, so inviting that cool glass of Efes happen to have our name on it-why not!
While we sat enjoying our glass of Efes, I Googled where to find the best nightlife in Istanbul. This area came up, which didn’t surprise us — but it also mentioned a spot near the Galata Tower that we’d missed. Well, it was Saturday afternoon, the sun was shining, and we’d already had a taste of beer, so we decided to head back up the hill to check it out — we didn’t want to miss a really cool place in Istanbul!
All I can say is, thankfully, it was worth the walk back up the hill. We found ourselves in a neighbourhood full of alleyways lined with bars and restaurants. There was one street in particular that had a bunch of Irish bars — I couldn’t help but wonder if they’d have good chips — ha! Only joking!
So we enjoyed a few more cold ones before starting the long walk back. The temperature was starting to dip, but luckily the bar had big heaters, and we knew we’d warm up once we got moving.
Of course, we didn’t have to walk — Istanbul has a wide range of transport options that make getting around the city relatively easy. There’s the metro, trams (especially useful for tourists — the T1 tram line runs through Sultanahmet, Eminönü, and across to Beyoğlu), the Marmaray (an underground rail line connecting the European and Asian sides under the Bosphorus), ferries, and buses. But we like walking — it helps walk off the beer!
What another fantastic day! We really enjoy exploring cities, especially when there’s so much to see. The cooler weather, compared to what we’d been used to, made it much more comfortable for walking.
The following day we wanted to keep on the tourist trail and visit the neighbourhoods of Fener and Balat. Known for their colourful houses, cobbled streets, and rich cultural heritage, both areas offer a glimpse into Istanbul’s past and present.
The weather was still bright but forecast windy which would make it feel much cooler.
Again, we decided to walk there, knowing we’d likely come across many interesting places along the way. In fact, that happened almost immediately, as right on our doorstep was the Beyazıt Mosque, located just beside the Grand Bazaar in Beyazıt Square. This is one of Istanbul’s oldest and most important imperial mosques. Built between 1501 and 1506 during the reign of Sultan Bayezid II, it was inspired by the Hagia Sophia and stands as a beautiful example of early Ottoman architecture.
In the same square is Istanbul University, with its monumental gates at the entrance. It’s one of Turkey’s oldest and most prestigious universities, built in the late 19th century in a striking neo-Romanesque style.
We cut behind the university, following directions to Fener, and stumbled upon another masterpiece: the Süleymaniye Mosque. We hadn’t even known about this one — shame on us!
We quickly found out it’s one of Istanbul’s most iconic and impressive landmarks. Built between 1550 and 1557, it’s located on the Third Hill of Istanbul and stands as a testament to the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire, as well as the architectural genius of Mimar Sinan, the empire’s most famous architect.
Apart from the amazing architecture, one thing that makes this mosque truly special is the view. It offers stunning vistas over the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and much of Istanbul.
After taking some time to admire the mosque and the view, we continued on our way. The directions towards Fener led us through a more run-down neighbourhood, with many crumbling houses. The streets had a raw, gritty feel, offering a stark contrast to the polished tourist areas. We enjoy venturing into areas like this, as they offer a glimpse into local life.
Further on we passed through more local neighbourhoods, we decided to stop for a kebab in a small café and we bought pastries, all for a fraction of what it would cost in the more touristy areas.
We also came across the impressive Fatih Mosque, another significant historical landmark. While it had much fewer crowds than the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, it was equally impressive.
We knew we’d arrived in Fener when the colourful houses came into view. The area has a charming, old-world atmosphere, with buildings painted in vibrant shades. These bright facades contrast beautifully with the cobblestone streets, and many of the old wooden houses featured ornate detailing around the windows and doors, adding even more character to the neighbourhood.
One particular street has become Instagram-worthy, drawing crowds who gather to snap photos in front of this colourful row of houses. Adding to the charm is one house draped in wisteria, which brings an extra touch of beauty to the already vibrant scene.
Historically, Fener was home to the city’s Greek Orthodox community. The area is filled with beautiful old churches, mansions, and schools, including the striking red-brick Phanar Greek Orthodox College which towers over the neighbourhood.
Another popular attraction in Fener is the colourful steps, which are among the neighborhood’s most photographed and charming spots. The only problem was the number of people, so there was no chance of getting a decent photo. It wasn’t the end of the world though, as we had actually come across a street with colourful steps right near our hotel — and there were no crowds at all.
We continued exploring around Fener and Balat, which sit side by side. One of the houses had an art exhibition, so we stepped inside for a look. Wandering around to the back of the house, we were treated to the most amazing views across the area — and as a bonus, they were offering free coffee and cake. Perfect timing, as we were more than ready for another break.
Rested and refreshed, we made our way downhill through Balat toward the waterfront. We decided to walk back to the hotel along the water, just for a change of scenery.
We were shattered by the time we got back to the hotel; once again, we’d clocked up the miles, so an early night was definitely on the cards.
The following day we decided to take it easy. The weather had also taken a turn; it was still dry, but the wind was back — this time with an arctic blast, and it was freezing. We only ventured out as the sun started to go down. Layered up to keep warm, we wanted to walk back to a few of the mosques to see them illuminated at night. The Süleymaniye Mosque was impressive, but oh my, it was freezing — especially as we made our way around the front. The view was amazing, though, so it was worth it, even if we did need a hat, scarf, gloves, and a fur coat — ha!
We then walked briskly across town to photograph the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia, and any other historical buildings we passed along the way. We didn’t hang about, though — it was far too cold! We snapped our photos and headed straight back to the hotel for a cuppa tea.
This brought us to our last day, and unfortunately, the weather still hadn’t improved — it was dry, thankfully, but the wind was as strong as ever. We knew the forecast was set to improve in a few days, but by then we’d be long gone. Determined to make the most of it, we wrapped up and set off toward the waterfront, eager to take one of the boat tours along the Bosphorus.
There are all sorts of boat tours on offer, from short sightseeing trips to full dinner cruises, but we opted for one of the most popular and convenient options — a 1.5-hour round trip. It was perfect for us: affordable at just a fiver, with drinks and snacks available on board—perfect!
We were already feeling the cold, so once we boarded, we grabbed a cup of tea and a toasted sandwich. You could sit on the lower level and stay warm, or be daft like us and brave the upper deck. Despite the freezing conditions, the upper deck was the better choice — the views were far superior for photos, and we could easily move from side to side to take it all in.
The tour was fantastic and absolutely worth the small price — it really gave us a sense of just how vast and sprawling Istanbul is. We’d only scratched the surface, mostly sticking to the well-known tourist sights, but from the water, we got a glimpse of the city’s many layers. As we cruised along the Bosphorus, we passed charming neighborhoods, elegant waterfront mansions, and grand buildings. The boat glided under the Bosphorus Bridge and continued all the way up to the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, near the impressive Rumeli Fortress — a striking 15th-century hilltop stronghold with towering stone walls.
On the way back, the weather finally got the better of me, and I headed downstairs to warm up. It was the wind that made it so biting, likely even harsher out on the open water.
It felt a little warmer as we disembarked and moved away from the water. The boat tour had indeed been the perfect choice for our last hours in Istanbul. We’ve enjoyed our time here, there is so much to see and do. But now it’s time to leave as later this evening we are travelling to Cappadocia as it’s a place I have always wanted to visit. We are braving the 12 hour overnight coach which I’m sure will be an adventure.
Cappadocia.
Cappadocia had always been a place I dreamed of visiting, so once we decided on a trip to Istanbul, I immediately began looking into how we could extend our time in Turkey to include it.
The quickest and easiest option would have been to fly, but I decided to look into bus and train options as well since we weren’t in any rush. The train was doable but not entirely straightforward — you could take a high-speed train to Ankara and then another to a town fairly close to Cappadocia. Then I discovered there was an overnight coach that was reasonably priced; it took 12 hours, but we were used to long journeys, and I figured we’d probably sleep through most of it — so the decision was made: we were going by bus.
The bus was departing early in the evening from the central coach station in Istanbul, so we took a taxi there and were soon on our way.
It seemed to take ages just to get out of Istanbul — we’d been travelling for about an hour and a half and were still only near the airport. We’d made a few more pick-ups, but it really made us realise just how big Istanbul is.
The journey went ok— we slept on and off throughout the night as the bus made brief stops at various stations along the way and we had a longer break around the halfway point. A staff member came around a couple of times during the ride, offering complimentary tea, coffee, and snacks, which was a nice touch.
There was just one thing that made the journey a little less comfortable — the driver’s smoking! Honestly, it felt like being back in the UK 40 years ago, as smoking is still widely accepted in Turkey and many people still smoke. Throughout the journey, I lost count of how many cigarettes the driver went through. Each time, he’d open the window, so the smell wasn’t really a problem, but the cold breeze was — especially since we were sitting just behind him in the front seats. It became a little more uncomfortable in the early hours of the morning when the temperature dropped and he kept opening the window over and over.
I was glad when we finally arrived in Göreme—just to get walking and warm up a little. Göreme is the name of the town where we were staying; Cappadocia is the region.
The main reason I’d always wanted to visit was because of the landscape, it’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before. — a surreal mix of rugged valleys, towering rock formations, and honeycombed hills that look like something from a fantasy novel.
Its most famous features are the “fairy chimneys” — tall, thin spires of rock that rise dramatically from the ground, sculpted over millions of years by volcanic activity, wind, and erosion. The soft volcanic rock has been carved by both nature and humans, creating a maze of cave dwellings, underground cities, rock-cut churches, and ancient monasteries tucked into cliffsides.
Göreme, located in the heart of Cappadocia, is a small town that feels like stepping into a dream. Surrounded by towering rock formations, fairy chimneys, and canyons.
As we’d arrived early in the morning, it would be a few hours before we could check into the hotel, so we would just leave our bags there and go explore. Göreme is known for its unique cave houses and hotels. We were excited to see our hotel, as we were staying in a cave hotel — I’m sure it would be a one of a kind experience.
It was only a five-minute walk from the bus station to the hotel. On first impressions we were amazed, astounded by the landscape and cave houses. Some of these dwellings are believed to have been carved into the rock as early as the 4th century AD — it’s one of the most surreal things you’ll ever see.
When we first arrived at the hotel, I couldn’t find anyone around — in fact, the whole town still felt sleepy. Most of the shops and cafés were still closed, with only a few open and hardly anyone out on the streets. It wasn’t even that early, around 8:30 a.m., so we figured this was probably the kind of place that gets going a little later. We’d come across a few laid-back towns like this before.
Luckily, after sitting on a bench outside for a few minutes, I spotted someone moving around — sure enough, he was a staff member just getting ready to prepare breakfast. He welcomed us warmly and showed us where we could leave our bags until our room was ready later in the day. Perfect — we were now free to go out and explore!
First things first, tea, we needed a few cups before doing any exploring, so we headed to one of the few cafes we’d seen open.
Warmed up and hydrated, we set off to explore Göreme’s winding streets. Steep lanes twisted up the hillside, leading us past charming stone hotels with beautiful courtyards and hidden terraces. As we climbed higher, views of the town and its unusual landscape began to unfold, each corner or lookout worthy of another photograph.
The area around Goreme is filled with numerous valleys and canyons great for hiking. I’d been researching a few different walks that we would be able to do over the next few days to make the most of the natural wonders.
Not wasting any time we headed to one of the nearby trails — the Zemi Valley loop. A short, scenic route just a couple of miles long, it was the perfect warm-up before checking in at our hotel.
There weren’t many people on the trail, and what struck me most as we followed the pathway was the peace and quiet. I turned to Shane and said, “Stop and just listen.” Nothing! Complete silence. It felt almost strange. On so many of our hikes, especially in places like Asia, you’re constantly surrounded by the sounds of birds and insects. You stop noticing it after a while — it becomes part of the background. But here, in this valley, there was none of that. Just silence.
As we followed the trail it gently climbed and we got glimpses of the surrounding ridges and even the edge of Göreme in the distance. It’s not a loop in the strictest sense, but with some backtracking or connecting to other paths, it made a decent walk.
We then followed the road back into town eager to see our room at the hotel.
Thankfully it was past check in time when we returned so our room was ready.
Well — we weren’t disappointed! A narrow stone stairway led up to the room, which was carved directly into the soft rock of the hillside — a proper cave. Overhead, a domed ceiling gave the space an almost cathedral-like presence.
A large rug covered the stone floor, and alcoves carved into the walls held lanterns and pottery, adding to the room’s charm. The bed was tucked beneath the curve of the dome, and a pair of antique chairs sat nearby. It was cool, calm, and atmospheric — stunning, that’s all I can say!
There are plenty of places to eat in Göreme, offering a mix of Turkish and international cuisine. Many of the restaurants have lovely terraces where you can enjoy the views and the surrounding landscape. Our hotel also had its own beautiful terrace, so we were already looking forward to having breakfast there the next morning.
One thing Cappadocia is famously known for is the hot air balloons that fill the sky each morning at sunrise. I’d seen countless photographs of this breathtaking sight over the years. While we didn’t feel the need to go up in a balloon ourselves, we always dreamed of witnessing the spectacle in person. So, an early night was in order as the balloons lift off just before sunrise.
So just before 5:30am we followed the short walk from town to a ridge with panoramic views over Göreme and the surrounding valleys. This is one of the best places to watch the morning balloon launch and the sunset.
Many balloons were already overhead, and we could see more launching in the distance. It was funny to see so many people gathered to witness the same thing so early in the morning. When we reached the ridge, the sun was just rising behind the mountains — we’d time it just right. The number of hot air balloons visible as you did a full 360-degree turn was astounding. It definitely wasn’t something you see every day, that’s for sure. And yet, despite the spectacle, it was so peaceful and serene — nothing was fast-moving. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect either, so we’d most definitely chosen the right day.
After taking far too many photos, as usual, we dragged ourselves back to the hotel. It was still early — probably around 7 a.m. — and breakfast wasn’t even served until 9 at the earliest. So, back to bed we went to grab at least another hour of sleep, as we had a big walk planned later that day.
We were looking forward to breakfast served on the wonderful terrace at the hotel. So, after an hour of relaxing, we weren’t disappointed when the hotel served us a feast of a breakfast. It was never-ending, as they brought salads, olives, cheeses, bread, and fruit, accompanied by traditional Turkish dishes. It was delicious — and the view was nothing short of perfect.
With a good fill for the day, we set off on today’s hike. We planned to follow a trail through Love Valley and Pigeon Valley, with a stop at Uçhisar Castle along the way. It was going to be a big one — over 10 miles — so at least we were well-fuelled. The weather was great too: sunny with a perfect spring temperature for walking.
We set off from Göreme and headed toward Love Valley. The walk took us slightly uphill, where the landscape opened up and we could see the valley nestled below the canyon. Carefully following our map, we began descending into the valley — but soon came to a halt. A steep section of the path was sandy and dusty, covered in loose gravel, and looked very slippery. While there wasn’t a sheer drop to the side, it was steep enough that we didn’t fancy sliding down and risking not being able to climb back up. Rather than take the chance, we decided to continue along the track in the hope it would loop around — and thankfully, it did.
It then led us into Love valley where the landscape is like something from a dream. The towering, surreal rock formations carved by centuries of erosion stood all around us, their shapes earning the valley its unforgettable name. It was hard not to stop every few steps to take photos — the views are unreal.
From here the walk continued through into white valley where the trail winds through quiet, tree-dotted paths, with occasional fairy chimneys. White Valley gets its name from the soft white rock formations that line the route, wave-like ridges contrast with the surrounding pinks of the landscape.
From there, we gradually climbed towards the town of Uçhisar and its famous Castle, the highest natural point in Cappadocia. The walk uphill offered changing views across the valleys, and arriving at the castle felt like a reward. We paused here for a break, soaking in the sweeping panoramas and grabbing a quick drink from a nearby café.
Uçhisar is a beautiful town and would be another great place to stay in the region. Much like Göreme, it has many cave hotels and restaurants. Built on a hill, its charming streets wind their way up to the castle that proudly sits at the summit. You can see the town and its castle from miles away, as they dominate the landscape.
There were lots of renovations happening throughout the town. With Cappadocia growing in popularity and more tourists visiting each year, many of the cave dwellings are being transformed into beautiful accommodations—and it was very evident here. In a few years, I imagine this place will be completely transformed, and it’s already stunning.
Next we made the descent from the town into Pigeon Valley. However, we encountered a section of the trail with narrow ridges and slippery surfaces due to the loose sandstone. Once again, we were reluctant to continue and risk a fall, so although it meant walking all the way back uphill into the town we chose the safer option.
This meant returning to Göreme via the main road, but it was still a pleasant walk with views of the countryside and canyons.
We completed the loop after more than seven hours on the trail, tired but happy. It was a big walk — over 10 miles — but absolutely worth every step. Between the bizarre rock formations, ancient structures, and tranquil valleys, this hike offered a bit of everything Cappadocia is known for. We couldn’t have picked a better day or a more beautiful walk.
Back in town, we were more than happy to flop straight into one of the many inviting restaurants. We went just as we were—if we’d returned to the room, I don’t think we would have ventured back out. Chilled and relaxed, it was the perfect end to our day.
Cappadocia is full of activities for adventure-seeking tourists, including quad biking, 4×4 jeep safaris through the canyons, horse riding, and hot air ballooning.
All those things sound fun to do but we like walking so was more than happy to spend our last day exploring a little more around the valleys and canyons.
Rose Valley was close by, and the trail I found wasn’t too long. In fact, we said we’d head out and just take our time—we didn’t need to do the full loop; we could simply go as far as we liked and backtrack if needed. After the massive walk the day before, I’m sure our legs would thank us for an easier day.
Rose Valley is another one of Cappadocia’s most stunning natural wonders, known for its dramatic rock formations with soft pink hues hence the name.
The valley is dotted with hidden cave churches, carved into the soft rock. The walking trails are gentle to moderate, passing through orchards, vineyards, and tunnels naturally sculpted into the stone.
The start of the valley was popular with jeep safaris and groups of horse riders. As we followed the trails deeper into the valley, it became more isolated, and we only saw the occasional person. We passed a centuries-old castle carved into the limestone. It was fascinating to wander through the lower levels and admire the intricate carvings in each room. With its pillars and domed ceiling, it was truly spectacular.
We didn’t do the whole loop; we ventured a few miles into the valley, but when we saw the steep climb ahead, we decided to turn back. We weren’t taking any risks today and risk a slip on loose gravel—we’d already had a good walk and were more than happy to return the same way.
So that brought our time here to an end. We spent the evening wandering the quirky streets around Göreme, taking it all in one last time. A few days here was perfect—I think we covered everything we wanted to see and do.
Tomorrow, we’re taking the bus once more and heading south to the coastal city of Antalya. It’s another long journey—around eight hours—but this time we’ll be travelling during the day, so we can just relax and enjoy the ride.
It will be nice to be back on the coast, and the weather looks like it’s going to be warmer too. I imagine we’ll have mixed emotions here, as this is where we’ll spend the final few days of our entire trip.
Antalya.
The bus journey from Göreme to Antalya went well, with lots of beautiful scenery along the way, including mountainous areas and lakes. Even though it was an 8–9 hour journey, it seemed to fly by. The driver was smoking, just like on our last coach trip — it seems to be the norm here. At least it wasn’t in the middle of the night this time, so although the window was down, it wasn’t too cold. We arrived at the bus station in Antalya around 9:30 p.m. and took a short taxi ride from there to the hotel.
We were staying within the old walled town, and it was a little difficult for the taxi driver to get us right to the door, so he dropped us just outside Hadrian’s Gate, which marks the entrance to the historic old town. It was quicker for us to cut through on foot than for him to navigate the narrow streets. The gates themselves are one of Antalya’s most iconic historical landmarks, so we’d be checking them out properly in the days to come. A few of the bars were still open and music was playing — we were heading straight to bed this evening, but based on first impressions, I think we’re going to like it here.
Up bright and breezy the following morning we were looking forward to exploring. The temperature had noticeably climbed now that we’d moved further south — warm enough to swap back into shorts and t-shirts, just how we like it!
The old town otherwise known as Kaleiçi is the historic heart of the city. The streets around the old town were a maze and it didn’t matter which way we ventured but as we knew Hadrians gate was close by we thought we may as well head there first. The Gate is a beautifully preserved Roman triumphal arch that was built in honor of Emperor Hadrian’s visit to the city in 130 AD. The gate has three archways and is flanked by towers from different eras.
You can still see the deep grooves in the marble roadway left by ancient carts, a reminder of the gate’s long history. Passing through it feels like stepping back in time, from the cobbled streets of the old town out to modern Antalya.
After photographing the gateway we returned back into the old town through the charming maze of narrow, cobbled streets, Ottoman-era houses, and ancient ruins that reflect the city’s long history.
It was nice to be back in a coastal tourist resort, with lots of beautiful shops and little café bars tucked among the quaint alleyways.
We could see the Alaaddin Mosque up ahead, and from there, the view opened up across the sea from a scenic viewing platform. We were astounded by the most wonderful mountainous backdrop of the Beydağları mountains— even the highest peaks were still snow-capped. Below, the harbour was dotted with moored boats, adding to the charm and beauty of this place.
We were in our element for the rest of the day, exploring the old town. Many spring flowers were in bloom, adding a vibrant splash of colour and enhancing the Mediterranean charm. With lots of inviting restaurants we stopped for a bite to eat. Our journey was coming to an end in a couple of days so it was nice to sit in the sunshine and just reminisce for a while.
By nightfall, the charming streets were just as enchanting, with music spilling from hidden courtyards and intimate café bars. Locals and visitors alike wandered the alleyways, soaking in the atmosphere. You were spoiled for choice when it came to dining—streets lined with restaurants, tables and chairs spilling out onto the pavement, rooftop terraces glowing with lantern light, and plenty of cozy tavernas tucked into every corner-just perfect!
The following day, we decided to walk from the old town along the coast and around to the city’s beach area. You can see the long stretch of sand when you look toward the magnificent mountain range from the old town. There’s a tram that runs along the coast road, which we could have taken, but we thought we’d get our steps in. Once again, the temperature was perfect, so we were sure it would make for a pleasant walk. We were in no rush—just strolling and enjoying the day.
As we approached the beach the road wound down the steep hill where the view opened up to Konyaaltı Beach, which stretches for several kilometers, backed by the dramatic silhouette of the Mountains.
Running parallel to the beach is a beautifully maintained promenade—wide, flat, and perfect for walking or cycling. The promenade is lined with palm trees and dotted with open-air cafes and beach restaurants offering sunbeds and shade.
It was nice to just stroll. The area was busy with people walking, exercising, and relaxing—some were even enjoying picnics in the gardens alongside the path. The gardens were beautiful, full of spring flowers in bloom—it really was lovely.
We’d been walking along the promenade for well over an hour and had only made it about halfway—it literally went on for miles. Eventually, we had to make a decision: if we were going to walk back to the old town, it was time to turn around. So that’s exactly what we did. I’m sure if we’d continued the whole way, the view would have stayed much the same—but it was a beautiful walk, all the same.
So we made our way back to the old town following the line of limestone cliffsthat define much of Antalya’s coastline. In places, they plunge steeply down to the water, where small, hidden coves can be glimpsed below. It was a good walk, and we’d most certainly earned our supper after clocking up another 10 miles.
Even though the weather had been kind to us, the temperature did drop in the evening. Being early May, the nights were still cool. We could still sit outside, but it was definitely worth taking an extra layer to take the chill off. At least it would help get us acclimatised for being back home—that’s for sure.
We had just one more full day before heading home to the UK, so we spent the morning exploring more of the old town to make sure we hadn’t missed any hidden gems.
There is so much history within its walls, take the Hıdırlık Tower, for instance—a round Roman structure dating back to the 2nd century AD, perched above the sea. From here, you’re treated to breathtaking views of the cliffs, coastline, and harbour. Then there’s the Yivli Minare Mosque, one of the city’s oldest Islamic monuments. Its striking fluted brick minaret, built in the 13th century, rises beside a historic mosque and stands as a proud symbol of Antalya—visible from much of the city.
We did also find a few streets we’d missed but it’s such a maze we wasn’t surprised.
We hadn’t really ventured into the new town so we headed there next. It’s easy to access across the road from Hadrian’s gate which acts as a kind of gateway between the old and new. The new town shows a different side of Antalya—functional, modern, and buzzing with everyday life. It’s not as picturesque as Kaleiçi (old town) but it’s a great place to get a feel for the city and see how the past and present sit side by side.
Antalya proved to be the perfect final stop on our incredible 15-month adventure. We had one last night to celebrate—and celebrate we would.
There was, of course, some sadness that our journey had come to an end, but also excitement at the thought of returning home to the loved ones we’d missed so dearly. We’d stayed in touch every single day throughout our travels, but nothing compares to seeing family in person. Knowing we’d soon be reunited made going home feel easy.
We celebrated a little too much, chatting with a father and son from Liverpool who were here getting their teeth done. They were great company and gave us a good laugh. We’ve had many nights like this over the past year, and it’s the people you meet along the way who become such an important part of the story. We might have a fuzzy head for the flight home, but it was well worth it.
I can honestly say we’ve loved every single day since leaving the UK on a cold February, 15 months ago. We stepped into the unknown—the abyss—with excitement and anticipation.
We had no fixed itinerary, only a loose plan to follow the weather as best we could. We took advice and recommendations from fellow travellers, often ending up in places we’d never heard of—and even in places we had heard of but hadn’t considered at the start of the journey.
One such place was Taiwan. Growing up, all I knew about it was that everything seemed to be made there. But wow—what a surprise it turned out to be. Then there are the vibrant cities of South Korea and Japan, the beautiful beaches of the Philippines, and the stunning wildlife in Malaysia, Borneo, and Sri Lanka. Add to that the diversity of Thailand and Vietnam, the breathtaking islands of Indonesia, and the awe-inspiring temples of Cambodia—this region truly has it all.
When people hear our story, they always ask, “What’s your favourite place?” or “What was your highlight?”
It’s an impossible question to answer. As mentioned, some places have the best beaches, others offer the most amazing cities, and some have an abundance of wildlife—so one place alone can’t claim that crown. Of course, we’ve loved some places more than others, but we’ve never truly disliked anywhere we’ve travelled.
A lot of it comes down to the people. In every country we visited, we can honestly say the people were amazing—kind, friendly, honest, and beautiful souls. It was humbling to meet so many who have less than we do, yet are so giving.
It’s a credit to the people: it’s nice to be nice, and it doesn’t cost a thing.
So for now, it’s back home. But it doesn’t feel like the end—more like a pause. We’re not finished, just momentarily taking a break.
In a few months, we’ll be back on the road, ready to continue this incredible journey—in search of more wildlife, breathtaking countries, and, most importantly, more wonderful people. So stay tuned!
